DaveT

Every time I have seen this it was one of the alternator brushes.

I got an L shapes hex wrench for those plugs years ago. Never had a problem getting them out.

A for real hex key wrench gets those plugs out no problem.

They are not precision, so it can be off by a bit. The ECU is not super high tech, so I doubt it would set a code for something like that. I know it won't for a 180 degree thermostat. The OEM ones are around 190.

I haven't seen a code 21.... I've had a bad CTS sensor that was intermittent and caused the idle to be all over the place. You want to watch the ohms while it cools down, it should change smoothly. A loose or corroded connection could be messing with the ECU also. Note, since I have seen some confused by this - the CTS is the 2 wire sensor on the thermostat housing, that the ECU uses to know the engine temp. It has nothing to do with the 1 wire sensor for the gauge, if you have one.

I would probably want to take the heads off and check everything. It's probably due for new headgaskets and all the seals from there up anyway. From all the sitting, it could be rust, from all the bad fuel, maybe gunk. There could be other things that need attention, like cylinders, rings, other valves.

That is not correct at all. The valves open and close 2000 times per minute at 4000RPM, which is not even the top RPM of the engine. The springs should be pretty darn tough to compress also. Valves should have very little drag opening or closing. [with the springs removed]

Starting moving going straight, ok. Not all the time on. When you mention auto - do you mean this is an automatic transmission?

Absolutely not. That is one of the things I hate about newer cars! You can't get at anything without a load of extra work! Added some extra lights to my wife's 09, what a PITA trying to get power, add a switch.

The dowel pins, I didn't remove, just work around / avoid them. The blocks I've dealt with barely needed anything. I just used 220 grit, and count strokes if you have to, so you don't over do one area. Use single edge razor blades or utility knife blades perpendicular as scrapers to get the gasket junk off without shaving aluminum.

You need a 5watt resistor for 40 ohms @ 12V, especially when you account for the ambient temperature. I never used a resistor. I found that Toyota solenoids from the same era are much more reliable - I am still running the same ones I got at a scrap yard in the late 80's.

No the aluminum channel is only 2" wide. It's long enough to span the width plus a bit. The idea is just to touch any high spot, or stuck crud. I don't try to remove a lot of material. Make sure you hit all areas evenly. The ones I have done have not been bad. The headgasket seals against the steel cylinder wall, as opposed ro the aluminum on the head side, so there should be less imprint.

The block hasn't usually needed as much. I have a piece of flat aluminum channel I wrap the sandpaper around, and use that.

I use the post apocalyptic resurfacing method to get rid of the marks from the fire rings. That us #1 priority. By then, the rest should be clean.

For the amount of work, you are better off swapping in an early EJ 2.2 . More power, more reliable, parts are available. EA82T - Many parts are NLA. I think the turbos were MPFI. The non turbo are SPFI.

Pick one of the manifold vacuum ports. Put a T in the line. Connect it to the vacuum motor. see if it pulls. Notice if it changes the idle once it has stabilized. Pull it off, and block the hose [kink the hose] to keep the vacuum, see if it holds position. If it isn't leaking, it should stay still.

EA82s are good for 4000rpm on the highway. Not a problem.

I just looked at one of the heads I have laying around... The 4 valves should all be the same height. I just put a straight edge on the ends. That one looking short, seems odd. I've had a few of these apart, never noticed them looking different like that.

It might be do able.. I've pulled a seal in a similar location by using a pointy sheet metal screw. Get the screw part way into the seal, pry it out. Might need 2 or 3 for angles to work it out.

I have had any one of the 3 idlers go bad and start making noise. Take the covers off. Use a piece of hose as a stethoscope.

This looks like it could be modified to fit - https://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-brz-performance-aluminum-radiator-13.html

I don't remember if I've seen anyone do it with an EA82. Since the 81 & 82 are the same displacement - I would think that the 2 carbs would need to be slightly smaller, because the CFM through each would be about half of what the flow through the normal setup would be. The Hitachi carbs are a nightmare to deal with, probably better off with something you can get jets for, like webers? From what I remember from numerous threads, the ultimate power limiter on the EA 81 & 82 is the ports in the heads.

I might be able to find an old aftermarket part number on one of them - but they went NLA YEARS ago. Not sure what good that will do though. I've been trying to find radiator parts / re-builder suppliers that I can order parts from. I have a couple that need new cores.

I'm pretty sure SPFI loyales had single row. The GL that became the Loyale also. The turbo ones had dual row. Maybe the 4WD wagons, but it's been too long, I don't remeber now. I always got the turbo radiators and put them in my SPFI cars.

10w 40 is what you want, unless the climate is very cold.