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Rafavidmess

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About Rafavidmess

  • Birthday 04/20/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santiago, Chile
  • Referral
    Google
  • Biography
    Love motorcycles, which I race since 5.
    Subaru’s in the Family since 1981.
    Finally got my hands on a MV-BRAT-Bruno after years!
  • Vehicles
    1991 MV Pickup

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  1. Found a number… 052286 in a sticker on my gearbox. ¿Do you know where to look for the right rear diff?
  2. Hello to All, I am feeling a bit ashamed of not entering the forum for so long. short update: - Iended up changing my gearbox due to the problems of the previous one. Also a dual range that is supposed to come from a Loyale (same housings at least). - Also bought a rear disk brake kit form a Loyale turbo… not installed yet. Everything else working fine. Today I installed the rear pro shaft and found out that rear diff ratio does not match with gearbox ratio. My diff is a 3.700. now searching for the codes of my new gearbox to know the matching diff…
  3. Hello to all, Kept on going with my project, I think I might be on the Final Straight.... I Installed a Pitch stop Rod and the gearing Issues are now gone. Now I have to get the car ready for our "Revision tecnica" (tech inspection for road worthiness), thus I need to have the backup light working. Does anyone know what cable (or cables) of my 5Spd dual 4wd gearbox (taken from a Loyale) are the ones from the Reverse sensor?...and where should I connect them? Also, the lambda sond of my engine (1990 MPFI EJ 22...with a 200? EJ 20 Block) had all the cables cut. I bought a Standard 3 cable Bosch sond. Do you know how it should be connected? I have a Chilton manual, but I couldn´t find this infor there. Saludos! Rafa
  4. Hi Bennie I Don´t have the Pitch stopper Rod Installed... than may be the Issue. Today I will work on It I know Gearbox Mounts Are OK Thanks a lot for the advice! Saludos! Rafa
  5. Last Update, Reading other posts on the forum I decided to start by the basics: Do an oil change and a Gearbox Flux.... Just remembered that the Gearbox was with the oil it came with, and as I found out in my forum investigation, clean oil in the dipstick doesn´t mean clean oil in the gearbox. Long story short: The dropped oil was filthy, and the drain plug had some kind of mud on it, though no big chunks. Refilled with 10W 40 Diesel Sinthetic motor Oil (Lots at hand due my machinery business) and went driving. At the beginning it was the same, but after 5-10 minutes driving the gears stopped popping out and I could even downshift for motor braking without gears disenganging...and it kept getting better and better... Think I will leave this oil for a short period (200-300 km) and drain as hot as possible to clean everything up. Hope it´s enough. Still I have to be carefull with downshifting for motor braking, but if done smoothly gears will engage perfectly. Saludos! Rafa
  6. Hello to All, Some updates: - For now I am working with the EJ sender into my EA Dash, Works fine when you know that halfway is maximum. I will leave the accurate measurement in the "nice to have" list. Now I am having a bit more urgent issue. When Testing hard my new engine (New block + 1 new head) the gearbox starts doing weird things. When I accelerate I have no trouble at all, but if (After hard acceleration) I loose the pedal, the gearbox will jump out of gear, it happens in almost every Gear (haven´t tried in 4th and 5th, due to the speeds involved). It doesn´t jump completely out (and makes the sema sounds as when you miss a shift), and if I accelerate immediately after, the gear will get back in. All shifts enter smoothly and in normal condictions it also runos noiseless and smooth. The gearbox is a dual range 5spd that came from a Loyale. Could it be a shifter linkage Issue? As always, thanks in advance for your wisdom. Saludos! Rafa
  7. Thanks @Numbchux and @el_freddo!! Great ideas. I think I have 2 sensor in the water Crossover pipe...I was just wondering what were they for. This afternoon will look for the easyer way with the stufff I have at my shop. Saludos! Rafa
  8. Also changed the topic name... The Original didn´t say much about my project
  9. Last Update I found a EJ 20 Short Block that seems in good condition for a very low price. Hope this week I can do the swap. BTW...does anyone knows which is the cable that sends the engine temperature signal? Should it come from the ECU or it is just a direct Connection? Saludos! Rafa
  10. Thanks Benny! Yes...my phase 1 Heads are also corroded on the firing ring . Will keep on looking...seen some on FB in Chile.
  11. Hi Bennie! The “acid” condition was just a joke. I don’t know the whole history of this car. What I know is that it was almost trash when I bought it. I changed head gaskets, timing kit and water pump. That’s when I noticed the deep corrosion. One of the cylinders was so corroded that only 2-3 mm of seating space for the head gasket were left at the combustion chamber. Some details of the available block: - It’s an EJ 20 with about 120.000 km on it, from a 2001 Legacy third gen. - if I buy it, I will go for timing, head gaskets and water pump. - I can see heads are different ( still an sohc, but a little wider), thus I don’t know if my intake/ exhaust manifolds will fit this block. saludos! Rafa
  12. Hi to All, Long time since my last post. Well, my Brat is electrically (almost) solved, but a new issue arised... It was supposed to happen, but not that early. Long story Short... for the EJ 22 on Brat retrofitting I bought a 1990 Legacy. Very cheap, but in very bad condiction. With the wiring and the engine peripherials it was enough for the money. The engine runned smooth, but it was corroded as they used acid instead of coolant. Made a fast fix, just to get it running. The engine did it´s job, but after short water is getting into the oil again = dead. There is a totaled 3rd gen Legacy near me, the Long block is available... Will my peripherics from G1 EJ 22 fit into this block? Best regards!
  13. Hi to All, As I have posted in the "Old Gen" Forum, I started from repairing to doing some major Mods to My 1990 MV. Including a 5Sp 4wd DR trans and an EJ 22 Engine swap. For the trans Swap I bought what I supposed should be a "complete kit", this is a GL 5Sp 4wd DR + Rear diff.... I was quite shure that my original 4Sp 4wd DR and the new would have different gearing. BUT when I was attempting to do the rear diff swap I noticedBoth are 3.700 Is this OK...or did I got a non matching Transmission-Differential package. Best regards!
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