Numbchux

The Subiefish adapter looks pretty cool, and looks like a basic lift block with a different pattern on the bottom. Looks to me like the bottom of the strut should bolt right in place. Because the geometry on the Tacoma, they use a very heavy spring (~450 lb/in for the standard, and ~550 lb/in for the TRD Offroad, from what I can tell the stock Outback rear is about 200). The downside of this, as the shock actually has about an inch less travel. I sent them a message yesterday asking about it, and I'm assuming I misunderstood the price (or what's included), because it's astronomical. He did say they should have their website updated with that information today, though. I badly need an overload spring option for mine, as we tend to load it down. And while I don't push it hard enough to need the travel, I'd rather not loose it.

IIRC XT6 TREs are the same as early EJ, which are on the long side with EJ knuckles (The TRE tab on the knuckle is shaped differently on the EJ knuckles than XT6, this gives a shorter steering arm, which is what improves the Ackerman Angle). WJM cut and shortened the EJ ones. EA81 are shorter, but with the larger stud. EA82 are also short enough, but use a narrower stud, which will put excess stress on the knuckle (I ran them for awhile, and they seemed to work, but it didn't take long before I had some crazy play in them). That's a deal on the hubs, grab them for sure.

Adding electric trailer brakes is no small task. There is no plug-n-play kit for the Subaru, so you'll have to get a universal controller and install it (which involves running wires all through the vehicle). There is such a thing as a receptacle with the 7-pin and 4-pin connector right next to each other, that part is relatively easy. No good place to mount it, but still easy compared to adding brakes to everything. If the trailer doesn't have them, I'm sure you'll have to replace the entire hub assembly, if not the axle. Install a battery, extra wiring, etc. Not terribly difficult, but fairly costly. Surge brakes will save a lot of labor on the car, but you'll add some on the trailer end, needing a new coupler, and running hydraulic lines on the trailer (at the very least, I've never done a conversion, just knowing how a trailer already set up that way works).

Yea, you're pretty much right on. Miata rear shocks are about 4" shorter. You'll probably want those if this is a pavement pounder. I *think* XT6 FWD rear shocks are still quite a bit longer, like the 4-cylinder ones. So you probably don't want that. As for getting the XT6 hubs. Basically your best bet is the marketplace here and/or Subaruxt.com. There was a company in Australia that made 5-lug kits for several years (Crossbred performance) but they stopped several years ago. There was also a private guy in australia who had a couple runs of them made fairly recently, but I think they got snatched up. And I think I remember him posting that his professional situation changed and he probably won't be having any more made.

Sorry, I just noticed this post.... You bring the ECU and related wiring from the engine donor car. This is the biggest job of the swap. Since the gauges are mechanical, you just splice them into the appropriate signals (sometimes with the addition of resistors or even whole sending units to get them to read correctly). The specifics will depend on the specific combination, but that's a general idea...

From 86Bratman's post, linked from the FAQ https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-10-Degree,29005.html

5-lug swap requires changing the front struts anyway, it only makes sense to discuss it at the same time, as the shock/strut selection will be dependent on the 5-lug setup. It makes the most sense to do the job at the same time, as the only extra component of the project then is swapping rear shocks, which would be easier with the brakes apart anyway. HOWEVER, if you need to get the suspension sorted out, you might want separate that, as finding XT6 rear hubs is not easy even if you're willing to pay for them. Looks like you're reading the write-ups on the USRM, which is awesome. I feel like some of these questions would be clearer with what I've compiled here in the FAQ, check it out. The last link in that post shows someone putting modified-Macpherson rear suspension (like what you've got in the RS) under a Brat (EA81, very similar to EA82, except the EA81 uses torsion bars instead of coil springs). It's a huge job...

Yep, stock rear EJ multilink rear shocks can be made to work without too much difficulty, but they are not setup to use a bushing where the shock rod goes into the mount, and the EA rear suspension swing arm pulls the shock bottom longitudinally too much for that. WJM and I both broke a shock. Not ideal. The NA miata ('92-'98ish) shocks are very similar, without a bushing on the top, but the NB ones ('98ish-'05ish) do have the bushing, and are almost a direct replacement, only using a different diameter spring (have to run coilover sleeves).

4WD XT6s all have air suspension as well. You can use the whole rear shock/spring/mount from a 4WD EA82. It'll be a little on the tall side, but it's a nice bolt-in swap (so will the stock struts/springs from the RS in the front). FWD parts will bolt in, but are much longer (will lift the rear) If you want to run full coilovers, like this: The best fit is something for the '00-'09 Legacy. But be prepared to spend $1k for cheap ones (and really not necessary unless you're going REALLY hard, in which case be prepared to spend several grand for something decent).

Almost nothing from the rear will work (without considerable fabrication). Take a peek under the back of each car, the suspension design is about as different as it's possible to be. You can ream out the ball joint hole in the control arm, and use the whole front knuckle/strut/axle/brake assembly, you'll need the shorter EA81 tie rod ends to get the toe anywhere near zero. You will still need XT6 (or reproduction) rear hubs. At that point, you could use the RS rear brakes by redrilling the backing plate. the rear knuckles, strut, axles, etc. will be of no value to you.

Yep, Asymmetric and directional are different. Direction usually has a clearly directional tread pattern. Assymetric is usually more subtle, and the tech has to be looking for it, I've seen really good techs miss it, but of course a novice tech is more likely to miss it. How much it matters will be different from tire to tire, but ultimately the tire shop missed it, and should correct it. There is such a thing as directional AND assymetric, which means the right and left tire will be different. I had a set of Kumho VictoRacers several years ago for Autocross that were like that. I opted to warn the shop that mounted them when I dropped them off. But obviously that's very uncommon.

Those cars use the ABS sensors to run the speedo, AFAIK there's no shaft or gear in there. BUT, I do believe the 3-4 gear is cut to accept one, so you'd "just" have to split the case, and install the shaft, seal, and gear to accept a cable. And yea, you'll have a few negative running characteristics without a VSS.

Meh, when I bother to do a lift, it'll be a 2" SJR. Which is not free, nor are the larger tires that would be required to make the lift worth it (I do have 5 matching wheels specifically for that stage). I have been aggressively researching overload springs, as we had probably 4-500 lbs of gear in the car and I probably could have slid the roof rack a foot or so further forward, but we were on the bump stops in the rear at every bump. I wish I could find reliable information with the factory spring rates.... I did beat up the front bumper a bit when I had it at the ORV park last summer, but it's only plastic, I just let it bend. Living where I do, we get a fair bit of snow, and they salt the roads to deal with that, these things mean quite a bit of corrosive road spray in the winter. If I do cut the bumper, I want to make new inner fender liners to keep the road spray from getting where I don't want it. This isn't a huge job, but just enough to keep it off the top of the priority list. At this rate, I'll be doing this stuff to the next chassis (we've put about 60k miles on this car since I got it). I also have a trailer hitch in the back that sort of acts like a rock slider to keep the rear bumper protected against the big stuff.

Yep, that's where it would be. Like I said, I'm not sure exactly when that started, but evidently yours doesn't have it.

Neither of those places. On the passenger side, it'll be on a vertical surface. I know they did it back to the early '00s or so. It'll be a complete 17-digit VIN.