Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Numbchux last won the day on July 13

Numbchux had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

377 Excellent

About Numbchux

  • Rank
    EJ conversion addict
  • Birthday 07/25/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Saginaw, MN
  • Interests
    Biking, Skiing, Driving
  • Occupation
    Bobcat/Kubota Parts
  • Vehicles
    '84 Brat, '89 XT6, '87 4Runner, '92 Celica...

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The Tribeca being a 5EAT should have Subaru HP in it, which is a full-synthetic. There are a few aftermarket equivalents... 4EATs before 2006 just need Dexron III, which is the most common and cheapest form of ATF (usually labeled as Dex/Merc). There are plenty of synthetic and name brand alternatives, but you're transmission would be better off if you spend a third as much, and change it twice as often.
  2. Numbchux

    Outback '01 2'' lift . am i getting most of it ?

    Leave one sway link connected. That'll hold the bar where it needs to be so it can't hit anything, but it'll still be ineffective.
  3. Numbchux

    DEQ fail after EJ swap

    Don't waste your time or money until you have something hooked up to the CEL wire on the ECU (could just be a test light, or something more permanent).
  4. Correct forum bump. Thanks for moving it. Anyone with some opinion? Experience? Advice? Regrets? Manual swap would be sweet, but a big job. There's a potential that the parts car (collision damage) has a good transmission, which could mean I could fix 2 parts without having to source any more major parts.
  5. Numbchux

    DEQ fail after EJ swap

    We don't have any emissions testing here, so I have zero experience with that. But, you say it's an EJ22 swap.....they made EJ22s for over 10 years. Please narrow that down. Check engine light? Pending codes? No, ignition timing is all electronic and not adjustable. It is possible to have one cam off a tooth and have it run OK, but not great. You'd probably notice.
  6. Wow. I posted this in Old Gen? DOH! Mods please move. Ran into my friend with the parts car last night. He offered to give it to me if I come get it.
  7. The EG33 is like 3 inches longer, so fitment is much more difficult. Just getting the radiator to fit is a challenge. A/C? Yikes. Also the EG33 was rare and is getting old, parts are getting hard to come by. The EZ30 is newer, and much much more common. I love the EG33, but the EZ is so much more practical.
  8. I have a '97 SVX, I picked it up last fall in trade for basically nothing. Something like 270k miles, been a MN car it's whole life, so very rusty. Runs, moves, but the rear subframe has failed (LR trailing arm is no longer attached). Very good friend of mine has a parts car that would probably give me the rear suspension. So I've been pondering fixing it. I was planning to replace my XT6 in winter beater duty, but since then I picked up a cheap Outback.... I already have a Celica GT convertible for an impractical summer car (Celica has a trailer hitch, so it's more practical than an SVX). Yesterday, a '96 pops up on Craigslist here. 110k miles, looks really nice, failed transmission. I know a guy that builds Subaru 4EATs for drag racing, and will pay about $150 for an SVX core. I know of an Outback 4EAT that I could probably buy for a song. It's either a '98 or '99, I don't think it could reasonably be made work if it's a '99. I have a 4.111 and 4.444 rear diff Option 1, part the '97, and use it's transmission to fix the '96. Stock for stock. And even though I know it was well maintained, it's high-mileage. Option 2, get my hands on a 4.111 or 4.444 4EAT for the '96. Still pretty easy swap, only need the trans and diff, but potentially unknown used transmission condition. Option 3, MT swap the '96. Much better outcome, much more work. I really don't need another project. Have to source parts. Have to fab parts. Option 1 costs me virtually nothing. Selling the '96 core and other parts off the '97 would easily pay for fluids and other things I might need for the swap. 2 & 3 still leaves me the option of fixing or parting the '97. What would you do? While I will probably drive the '96 for awhile, ultimately I'll resell it. So who's sold a MT-swapped SVX? Is there enough value to justify the project?
  9. Numbchux

    Auto seatbelts

    No seat switch, just door switch. I'd check fuses/relays, then I'd blow out the track with compressed air (sometimes the arm can be prevented from reaching the end of the travel, and therefore tripping the limit switch). Then I'd either live with it (what I've been doing with my XT6), or swap to manual belts.
  10. Higher-than-stock CV angles, and then a CV failed. Certainly related. Might be something else contributing, might have already been worn. Pretty hard to say if the next one will last or not.
  11. Yea, outer CV is broken. I don't think removing strut mount bolts will give you enough play to get the axle out, I think you have to disconnect the lateral links from one end or the other. 3&4. It will do just fine as long as you never demand more than FWD from it. But any power sent to the rear will just get spun away there. Depending on what exactly has happened inside that shaft, it might come loose and cause more damage, might not....
  12. I'm excited to hear about that. We're planning a trip up there for this fall. Probably less intense than you usually do, but I'd still like to see what we find. At the very least, we want to cross the firesteel railroad trestles, and spend a night either on the beach at Keweenaw point, or the island on Schlattner lake (pending finding a decent inflatable boat for cheapish, as it probably doesn't make sense to haul a couple canoes up there just to get to the island).
  13. Well, being that they're chains, when the tensioner goes weak, the chain will jump time, but not break. So it's completely possible that it didn't damage anything else. That said, opening the timing cover alone is a fairly big job. You can get low mileage JDM engines for less than $1000.
  14. Numbchux

    the 3.454:1 diffs

    What? Subaru never used a 3.454 diff They use 3.545 in the SVX and some newer models pretty sure a PT4WD 3AT would use a 3.70
  15. I know nothing about circle track setups, nor your setup.... but it sounds like you're running RWD, yes? No front axles connected? If that's the case, then you don't need to worry about changing the transmission. Subaru r160s come in 4.44, 4.11, 3.90, 3.70 and 3.54. Pick your gear calculator, and see what the difference in rpms would be at a given speed and tire size. I don't remember if any EJ-platform Subarus used a 3.7, might only be the EA82ts and such. I know the only Subaru to use a 3.54 is the SVX (edit: nope, used on plenty of WRXs, too). Although it's not uncommon for SVX owners to swap to lower ratios, so you might be able to find a decent used one. Nissans also used r160s, and long-nose r180s are also usually a direct swap (pending axle spline counts), so there might be other ratios available that way.