Numbchux

By VIN, your car uses the 040. 100 is for the 3.0 and 07-09 253 (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). Destination code U5 is for California, even though it's a 253.

My thought exactly, yes.

Moosens described checking if the cam timing is correct My bet is that the crank and LH cam sprockets are incorrect. Pull the covers and check the crank sprockets (can be done without removing the timing belt) between the 2 engines. But yea, swap the manifold gaskets for the correct ones. Pull trouble codes before taking stuff apart.

Yea, I've heard of people filing grooves out of the cage/basket. But that typically locks the clutches on or off. The bang suggests to me that the clutches are working, but something is moving when they engage. I would closely inspect all rubber bushings/mounts before considering tearing into the transmission. It could also be worn clutches not engaging when they should. Or both....

Likely need to swap the crank and LH cam sprocket from the old engine. The tone wheels for the crank and cam sensors are part of those sprockets, and there are a couple different patterns.

Flashing CEL is an active misfire. You can't just clear it, you have to repair the fault first.

I'm not aware of a write-up. All FAs and FBs will be largely similar. Newer ones have direct injection (mechanical fuel pump) and electronic thermostat that you don't have to worry about. Engine out, for sure. Timing cover/chains off. Valve covers, cam carriers and then heads off. We see a ton of leaking upper oil pans and oil level switches (might not apply if it's a Forester), so I would recommend pulling that all and resealing it while the engine is out. There are a bunch of Orings and such, but most of the job is FIPG. Using it correctly and adequately is crucial to a successful repair, too much and you clog your oil passages, not enough and it leaks more than it did before. I've seen trained, but new, Subaru technicians need a couple tries to get the timing cover to seal completely.

Recalls are only for life threatening conditions. Even warranty extensions and class action lawsuits expire. The fix is tighter piston rings. Replacing piston rings in a mechanical shop is costly and time consuming, makes more sense to just swap it for an updated shortblock. Either way, tighter rings will reduce fuel mileage. If you know a GOOD mechanic (not a guy who worked on a Chevy once) who will give you a screaming deal on his time, the engine can be rebuilt. Probably $800ish in parts from your local dealership, but a LOT of labor. Or $3k in parts from the dealer for a shortblock and gaskets, and then only a bunch of labor (and still skilled labor. Cam carrier and timing chains will leak the first few times a person does them). I've heard of people retrofitting used engines from slightly newer cars with a few minor modifications. Might be worth looking into. But consult with the shop you're likely to use, as that can be a can of worms that leads to endless headaches for everybody, so they might not want to touch it. Or, just live with it. My mom bought a 2012 Impreza years ago with about 20k miles on it, but a salvage title (no warranty, even extensions. Only recalls). She drove it for about 200k miles before the CVT failed. She had to add a quart or more between every single oil change. We would buy a case of 0w-20, and always keep a quart in the trunk, and tuck a small funnel and rag into the engine bay next to the battery. Learn the difference between oil level and oil pressure warning lights. Oil level warning doesn't mean stop right now, you can wait until the next fuel stop. Oil consumption is a symptom of looser tolerances and lighter oils, which all manufacturers are using to try to meet the demand for fuel economy. This is not uncommon. And complexity of repair is definitely universal on modern cars.

Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF

Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF

Probably transfer clutches. Get them new, and fix it. You don't have to pull the transmission, and a used trans is likely to also have worn clutches. Also inspect all rear suspension and diff bushings. AWD could be engaging normally, but a bushing is clunking when it's loaded.

The painted bumper looks great

I got a SOHC EJ20 a couple years ago for an '01 Forester. The donor engine was much newer than that. SOP is to swap the intake manifold, and all wiring/sensors/injectors/throttle body/coil/etc from your old engine. Oil pan will likely be different, leaving more room for the larger cat, swap it for more capacity, or don't. Good idea to do plugs, valve cover gaskets, oil separator and timing while it's out. It will almost certainly have a 7mm oil pump, so I would swap to a 9 or 10. BUT, read the fine print from the seller, as removal of anything sometimes can void the warranty. I bought through eBay, as that would have some standardized way to look at seller history and feedback. And as a result, there is some incentive for them to make things right if things went sideways. I also paid with a credit card through paypal, so I would have 2 ways to dispute the charge. I've heard so many horror stories over the years about importers that send out junk, leave customers out to dry, and then change their name after a couple years and some bad publicity.

That's how you know there's oil in them, right?

Yea, level switch on Imprezas and Leg/OBKs was just for a warning light. But it got people to come in to the dealer and complain long before the engine blew up. I don't like that it comes on when the engine is about .5 quart low, but it might have saved me a couple engines in my life.... Yea, the bulletin and warranty extension was for -14 cars, and a few 15s. But we've done plenty of newer ones. It's certainly improved, though.