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Numbchux last won the day on March 15
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About Numbchux
- Birthday 07/25/1985
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Male
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Saginaw, MN
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Interests
Biking, Skiing, Driving
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Bobcat/Kubota Parts
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Vehicles
'84 Brat, '89 XT6, '87 4Runner, '92 Celica...
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Recalls are only for life threatening conditions. Even warranty extensions and class action lawsuits expire. The fix is tighter piston rings. Replacing piston rings in a mechanical shop is costly and time consuming, makes more sense to just swap it for an updated shortblock. Either way, tighter rings will reduce fuel mileage. If you know a GOOD mechanic (not a guy who worked on a Chevy once) who will give you a screaming deal on his time, the engine can be rebuilt. Probably $800ish in parts from your local dealership, but a LOT of labor. Or $3k in parts from the dealer for a shortblock and gaskets, and then only a bunch of labor (and still skilled labor. Cam carrier and timing chains will leak the first few times a person does them). I've heard of people retrofitting used engines from slightly newer cars with a few minor modifications. Might be worth looking into. But consult with the shop you're likely to use, as that can be a can of worms that leads to endless headaches for everybody, so they might not want to touch it. Or, just live with it. My mom bought a 2012 Impreza years ago with about 20k miles on it, but a salvage title (no warranty, even extensions. Only recalls). She drove it for about 200k miles before the CVT failed. She had to add a quart or more between every single oil change. We would buy a case of 0w-20, and always keep a quart in the trunk, and tuck a small funnel and rag into the engine bay next to the battery. Learn the difference between oil level and oil pressure warning lights. Oil level warning doesn't mean stop right now, you can wait until the next fuel stop. Oil consumption is a symptom of looser tolerances and lighter oils, which all manufacturers are using to try to meet the demand for fuel economy. This is not uncommon. And complexity of repair is definitely universal on modern cars.
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Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF
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Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF
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long travel Outbacks or making Subarus faster and more reliable offroad
Numbchux replied to pontoontodd's topic in Off Road
The painted bumper looks great -
JDM Engines?
Numbchux replied to lmdew's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I got a SOHC EJ20 a couple years ago for an '01 Forester. The donor engine was much newer than that. SOP is to swap the intake manifold, and all wiring/sensors/injectors/throttle body/coil/etc from your old engine. Oil pan will likely be different, leaving more room for the larger cat, swap it for more capacity, or don't. Good idea to do plugs, valve cover gaskets, oil separator and timing while it's out. It will almost certainly have a 7mm oil pump, so I would swap to a 9 or 10. BUT, read the fine print from the seller, as removal of anything sometimes can void the warranty. I bought through eBay, as that would have some standardized way to look at seller history and feedback. And as a result, there is some incentive for them to make things right if things went sideways. I also paid with a credit card through paypal, so I would have 2 ways to dispute the charge. I've heard so many horror stories over the years about importers that send out junk, leave customers out to dry, and then change their name after a couple years and some bad publicity. -
Yea, level switch on Imprezas and Leg/OBKs was just for a warning light. But it got people to come in to the dealer and complain long before the engine blew up. I don't like that it comes on when the engine is about .5 quart low, but it might have saved me a couple engines in my life.... Yea, the bulletin and warranty extension was for -14 cars, and a few 15s. But we've done plenty of newer ones. It's certainly improved, though.
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11-14 Foresters did not have an oil level switch/warning light. It was very common to see catastrophic failure on those, as they typically got driven until they burned so much that they lost pressure. Modern cars have so many modules that stay active even with the key off, it's pretty crucial that they get driven.
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CANBUS was mandatory in all US vehicles since 2008 (most adopted it several years before that) I think both engines have their advantages. The FB is less likely to need anything, but a bigger job to do (to do almost anything on the FB, you have to remove the timing chain cover and chains). Take care of them, keep on top of the oil changes (I see VVT solenoids gummed up on both engines). Throw that Sham oil filter in the dump with the rest of the filthy cardboard and use a Tokyo Roki from the dealer, or WIX. The EJ will leak oil externally. The FB will probably leak it and/or burn it. Neither car has a low oil level indicator (just pressure), so check the dipstick periodically, and they'll do fine.
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Yea, GDs got 2 facelifts (and sedans got flared fenders, so sedans and wagons have different fenders and front bumpers). You can swap the entire front clip 02-07 with some modification to the core supports. You could also use a Saab 9-2x front clip, if you could find one. 04-05 headlights should all be interchangeable (there are likely a few different headlights that fit in that opening depending on trim. I know the STis had HIDs, etc.)
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1991 Loyale Air in brake line
Numbchux replied to saltytheseadog's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Master Cylinders should be bench bled before installation. so you've likely pushed a lot of air into the system. If your car has a hill holder (definitely on MT GLs, I never had a MT Loyale), there's a bleeder on that.