Numbchux

Doors do transfer. On the 1st and 2nd gens, the rear door glass was different between a sedan and wagon, I assume the same is true of the 3rd. I think the sunroof stuff is different. The only sunrooof-related part that I would consider a common failure part would be the cable that runs from the motor to the front glass, but I don't think that applies to the sedan, might even be Outback specific.

You really have tested the axles... Here's another options, '02-'04 Impreza Sedan axles (wagons are narrower, RS/TS or WRX doesn't matter). They're about an inch longer.

Yep, Outback grill is about 2" taller, and the bumper is cut lower to accomodate. Legacy grill can be used with an Outback bumper (will leave a gap, but function). I think both of his cars are Legacies, though, so shouldn't be a problem.

You're sort of on the right track. The male stubs on the '05 axles will pop right into the '01 transmission, after the stubs are removed from the '01. Unfortunately, that involves splitting the transmission as the stubs on a manual are held in with snap rings from the inside. You're sure the '01 axle won't work in the '05? Those chassis are VERY similar Here's the surtrack axle for an '01: And for an '05: 4" difference, but that's also counting the stub that protrudes into the transmission, which sounds like it would be really close.

Fuel pump assembly, especially if the cap isn't broken. That's about the only thing that's "prone" to failure. If it's a Limited, it'll have leather, which is very nice IMHO. OE Fog lights suck. They look neat, but not very functional. I sell any good ones off my cars, even if I'm keeping the car. I don't know how the GT ones mount, the Outback ones just bolt to the bottom of the bumper beam. So all I can say there is to watch for any extra bracketry behind the bumper cover. Yep, bumper will swap right over. The '02 may have smaller front brakes than your '03 (mid-year '02 change). Beyond that, normal partout stuff. Switches and lights are usually worth saving. If it's got a trailer hitch. I see a lot of deer crossing, so I would be saving any front bodywork.

Also there's a sticky in this section with new sources for the Endwrench articles. Or, google the document #.

A lot of leaks can end up there. Front main, oil pump. Even oil pressure switch can drip down the front of the motor and get blown back to the filter. The oil from a head gasket leak seems to frequently blow backwards as you drive and then drip off the engine crossmember/steering rack/sway bar more than straight down onto the oil filter. But that's a pretty blanket statement.

Yep. Even just turning around in my driveway, I don't want my headlights pointed at the house or down the road. They should turn off with the ebrake up, so I got in the habit of pulling the brake up one notch when I wanted to turn them off.

Well, you could leave the headlights on all the time so it never goes in DRL mode. On the BE/BH Outbacks, disabling the DRLs is as easy as unplugging one connector at the DRL module, but I'm sure it's different on the Forester.

I just bought these for the low beams in my '00 Outback, and I'm pretty pleased with them. Fit in the stock housing, good optics with a sharp cutoff (made me realize that my LH housing is aimed at the ground since my deer hit last year). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNZPPC2/ I don't know about the Forester. But on my Outbacks, the H1 is the low beam and DRL, but when in DRL mode, it gets lower voltage. LEDs will flicker in this mode, so disabling the DRL is a must.

It would. It took quite a bit of time to do then, and I was single, and working part time, and "going" to school....well, enrolled anyway. Got a wife, 2 kids, career, old house, and a couple dozen other projects, now. I like to stay active and see what people are doing, and offer help when I can, but I can't see me sitting down and re-doing the manual.

The Liberty has a button on the dash, it's a single momentary button, when 12v is provided on that wire to the control module, it turns the system on, and then again on the same wire, it turns off. Easy enough. This button also has an indicator light in it to tell you when the system is on, you may want to replicate that somewhere. The stalk on the steering wheel has 3 functions. Accel/resume, Decel/set, and Cancel. This is done using a 12v momentary pulse on 2 wires. There are a couple diodes in the switch so it provides 12v to both wires simultaneously for the cancel function (see attached). You could make that your 4th function by replicating those diodes, or leave it off (easy enough to touch the brake pedal to cancel or turn the system off). I assume the switches are from an EA81 sedan or wagon. I don't have any good diagrams on the function of those, but again, shouldn't be hard with a multimeter to figure out how they function and apply a power source to one wire and get it out on another wire when the switch is pressed.

The AWD is crap? Because a functioning VLSD center does surprisingly well offroad. Or you just mean you don't like the gearing in your AWD transmission. I'm just saying you are trading off the gearing for AWD. I drove an EJ-swapped EA82 with stock size tires and a PT4WD transmission for awhile, and HATED it in FWD. It would roast a front tire when you even looked at the throttle, so I was constantly putting it in and out of 4WD when accelerating or turning. Big tires helps, but the stock EA82 geometry is not condusive to traction. I'm pretty apathetic towards the Subaru dual-ranges. It's just not enough. I started building an AWD, 4.444, 1.59 transmission, but got stuck when the Carbonetic front LSD wouldn't clear the low range gears. Since then I've spent more time in vehicles with real gearing (my 4runner with 2.28 low and a torque converter, or a built Toyota manual with 5.29 axles, and double transfer cases with 2.28 and 4.7), and it just doesn't seem worth it.

Yes, that is just a check valve, it can clog and cause the gas pump to shut off immediately. On the cars with that, we always sold the nuts, too, as the studs usually twist off with them in the old one. Did you ever actually run your VIN on a parts lookup site (parts.subaru.com or partsouq.com both have VIN-specific lookups)? I'd highly reccomend doing that to make sure you've got the right one.

Missing some vital details. What car is this? What cruise system are you using? Here's a generic answer. The EA82 cruise system uses a latching on/off switch, so the switch stays where you leave it, whereas a window switch is momentary. Many EJ systems use a single momentary button to control on and off function. There are ways to use a momentary switch to control a relay, simplest is to just use a latching relay (which would use a separate "on" and "off" function). Window switches can function a couple different ways, where they reverse the power themselves, or just operate a relay. But either way, a few minutes with the correct cruise diagram, and a multimeter on your switch and you should be able to replicate the appropriate signals for the accel/decel buttons (usually just a switch to ground).