Numbchux

Yea, it would eventually be running off. Depending exactly where the leak is, it might take awhile to be visible. But with your symptoms, I was expecting an empty reservoir. Any leak would leave fluid, and not terribly difficult to see, so I don't think that is your issue. I suppose it's possible to have a catastrophic master failure.

Just because it's cutting power to the "acc" circuit doesn't tell you anything about the condition of the contacts in the "ST" circuit. I'd get the multimeter out and test for power coming out of it in that position. I wouldn't be surprised if it's nothing. Ignition and inhibitor switches have almost identical function, they can fail without warning.

Start circuit on that is not run through any relays other than the solenoid on the starter. Power before the ignition switch is shared, so the fact that it'll run, means that it's not a fuse or anything like that. It's either the ignition switch, inhibitor switch (on the side of the transmission, like you pictured), or a wiring break. Get out your multimeter and see where the power stops. The inhibitor switch has seperate contacts, so I've seen them fail in "Park", but still work in "Neutral". So if that doesn't work for you, I'd be inclined to ASSume ignition switch, but test it. Diagrams: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1995/1995 Legacy Wiring Diagrams.pdf Start circuit is on page 15. Super simple circuit.

How's the level in the reservoir? Do you loose fluid? Your's sounds like a fluid leak. Any other symptom I can think of would yield a spongy or hard pedal, but still functional. These are somewhat notorious as they get old for rusting out lines above the fuel tank, so look for brake fluid leaking down from that area, usually on the passenger side.

You put spacers between the crossmembers and body to lower the driveline and therefore lessen CV axle angles. The stock Outback that you took those struts off of had about 1" spacers on the subframes. Look up a lift kit for your car (sjr, adf, and others), and you'll see that higher lift heights require considerably more components.

No, it will fade, but not break down. I painted my driving light mount on my last Celica with it (completely exposed), and it turned a pretty light shade of gray over the 6 years that it was in use, but never rusted.

No, I'm saying water and dirt and chemicals from the road build up there and turn good steel into rust. I would hit that with a wire wheel, and then paint over it with POR15 to keep it from spreading. Most primers are porous, so you should paint over it with something, or your brand-new fender can rust right through the paint.

Yep, just a rusted out fender. Pretty common for road grim to build up behind the factory mud flap (first thing I do is throw those away) and dissolve the steel behind it. It's only cosmetic, that'd be listed as rust-free here in MN, so nothing to worry about if you aren't concerned with the look. Otherwise, look for a used fender in the same color, or get a new one (OE or aftermarket) and have it painted.

I don't see a CD changer port on the back of that. So the modulator is probably your best hardwired option. Yes, rocker switch just a simple on-off switch

Plug in a code reader that can read live data. See if you have any stored or current codes (no light does not mean not codes). Then check the temperature. After sitting overnight, the engine temperature and intake air temp sensors should read almost identical.

Reason not to? How about it's not what Subaru calls for, what they do call for is about 1/4 the cost, and abundantly available. Maybe it won't do damage, in fact, it probably won't make anything worse. But why spend more on the wrong stuff? Plain Jane, no-name Dex/Merc is perfect and costs about $2.50/qt

In my experience, the signal on these between the adapter and radio generally sucks. Which is why I went with a hardwired unit. Same idea, but cleaner looking and better looking.

I don't have any specific experience with your model, but I've added an Aux input into my last 3 Subarus with stock radios, in 3 different ways. Look up your specific radio (either with a part number/manufacturer on the faceplate, or use your VIN on parts.subaru.com and look up the subaru number there, the former will likely be more helpful, though). Subaru doesn't make their own radios, and they use many different manufacturers, so there will be different answers depending what radio you have. Every Subaru radio I've looked at in the last 25 years, has had an unused CD changer plug on the back. The McIntosh in our '04 Outback VDC, I bought a yatour digital music adapter, which plugged right in, and was super simple, but cost like $100. I had a '97 Legacy that had a pretty simple input, I was able to make a quick adapter using a rocker switch and a panel mount audio jack. When I looked into it on my '00 Outback, I don't think the Yatour one was available (or I just didn't want to spend $100 on a $500 car), and when I looked into a DIY, I discovered it was a digital signal, so would require a converter. I found someone who made a converter for it designed to integrate into an ipod or thumb drive, but was way overkill for what I wanted. I ended up just using a hardwired signal modulator. Works the same way as one of those crappy remote modulators, but it's actually wired inline with your antenna, so it gets a much better connection to the radio, and disconnects the car antenna so you don't get any interference. I got this one, and their install kit, simple install, works great.

Yep, as long as it's a matched set of 4, no problems.

They've been making Foresters for 22 years, with a variety of different engines, some require synthetic, some do not. Please be more specific. The best oil is new oil. I do not subscribe to using better oil. I use cheap oil (my go-to lately is a blend, anyway) and change it more often then recommended.