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Everything posted by Numbchux

  1. It would be different if your 86 is an EA81 or EA82 Here's the EA81 SPFI swap write-up from the Retrofitting FAQ https://www.dropbox.com/s/k4kdbpaclc6sko4/EA81_SPI_guide.pdf?dl=0
  2. AFAIK, it's different for different cars/codes/readers. But generally, if you manually erase the codes, they're gone. Sometimes the conditions are met for a code to no longer illuminate the CEL, but it will remain as a pending code for some time.
  3. 1st step is to get the codes read. Most auto parts stores will read this for free. Have her write down the code number, one letter and 4 numbers. The car is trying to tell you what's wrong, trying to make a guess what that might be is wasted effort.
  4. You're getting 30+psi in the return line? Yikes! Definitely have a restriction there. Was it idling that 15 minutes? Theoretically, as long as the pressure in the return line is lower than in the rails, it should be OK. But as the revs come down, or under engine braking, it could spike up as the ECU shuts the injectors off. I would definitely run a new return line (or a new feed line, and use the old feed as the return) to get those return pressures down.
  5. Numbchux

    EA81T swap my 88 wagon?

    I mean, I hate the EA82. But I'm not sure I could talk myself into pulling a running one for an EA81t... I ASSume those have the same turbo placement and up-pipe routing as basically all other Subaru H4 turbos. Which would mean you'd need a EA82t crossmember, or modify yours, or redo the exhaust.
  6. Numbchux

    EA81T swap my 88 wagon?

    You would get the simplicity of the pushrod engine, but you'd be going from a common-but-antiquated fuel injection system (ASSuming your 88 is an EA82), to a very rare fuel injection system (AFAIK, only used on the EA81ts). Probably have to transplant the ECU and wiring from the EA81t. All the work of an EJ swap...
  7. Looked like pinched...but hard to say. Yea, the wiring on the '05-'09 does not hold up.
  8. 1998 Forester. Rear washer doesn't work. I was sitting in the garage last night with everything else off, and not only can I hear the pump running, but it sounds like I'm hearing it spray out under the car, but I suppose it could be under the carpet under the driver's seat. Anyone know how that's routed? Parts page just shows a couple sections of hose (is it actually rubber hose the whole way, or is it hard tube at some point?) with no reference how that goes on the body.
  9. Actually got some work time this weekend, ran the pump a bit, and it didn't sound like it was pressurizing. So I went for it, held it down for several seconds. Sure enough it started dripping from the headliner trim. Didn't take long to find a break inside the boot between the body and rear gate. 2021-02-15_08-08-43 by Numbchux, on Flickr Looked like it was pinched, but I'm not sure how. I pulled a coupler from a parts car, spliced it together, and I have a rear washer again!
  10. Numbchux

    Loyale shocks?

    Considering that poster hasn't logged on in over 12 years....there probably won't be any follow up.
  11. Numbchux

    SJR Lift Kit Help

    Engine crossmember and radius rod/transmission crossmember brackets are 7 and 4. 2 looks like rear crossmember or mustache bar bushings. Not sure why those would be included. are #3 threaded couplers? Again, I can't think what those would be for. But even without 2 and 3, you've got everything for a high clearance 4" kit. I've done a couple similar to that.
  12. Well, I decided to pull the LH taillight access cover from the inside off and see what I could see. Not only does the hose run down there, but there's a connector right there. Disconnected it, pushed the button, and fluid came out.... So it may be leaking before that under pressure, but it's at least connected. At this rate, I'll have it figured out by next year.
  13. ... Need to sort out if it's a coolant flow issue, or an airflow issue.
  14. Don't just throw parts at it. Test. Diagnose. '91 Legacy can still display trouble codes even though it's not OBD II. ASSuming the Legacy that the fuel filter was designed for was fuel injected, than you have an EFI filter. Yes, the carbed EA81 uses considerably less pressure than the EJ22. You should have upgraded all rubber hoses and clamps on the pressure side to handle that. But I'm not asking about pressure, I'm asking about volume/flow. Carter's web site says minimum free flow is 21 (no mention of unit. The only one that sort of make sense is Gallons per hour, but even that seems low). '92 Legacy FSM specs the MPFI N/A EJ22 with a 21.1gph pump at 36.3psi, so on paper that actually sounds low, but since it's meant to supply fuel injected V8s up to 7.5L....I would think it would have enough. You have fuel pressure gauges on inlet and return? What do they say?
  15. Does it run OK? Any codes? If you're washing the cylinders walls enough to get fuel past the rings and into the oil, I expect it to be running pig rich. Sound about right? EA81s have a smaller return line, not intended for fuel injection. What's the volume of that pump you're running? If it's higher than stock EJ22, it's possible your return line is restricting and overpowering the regulator. You could put a fuel pressure gauge in after the regulator to see if that side of the circuit is pressurizing.
  16. The factory service manual has a several page diagnostic chart for P030x codes. Tune-up is definitely the place to start, but it could be any one of about a dozen things. Ranging from a loose hose to a blown engine and everything in between.
  17. I started with the FSM and parts diagrams. Nothing definitive that I can find.
  18. Yep, I'd put a multi meter on the system (even just to the cigarette lighter plug) and see what it looks like while running and revving. Use a paint pen or white out to draw a line across the face of crank pulley, then you can tell if the outer ring moves. Check belt tension. You have checked *all* grounds? And you are 100% confident all contacts are making good connection, and wires have good continuity?
  19. I have 2 concerns. 1. Overcooling. Depending on how you're using it, the factory exchanger in the radiator is warming the fluid more than cooling it. And a condenser is going to provide a lot of surface area. Although it won't have much air flow through it, so it might not be an issue... 2. Volume/flow/pressure. I'd be concerned that the ports at the end tanks and/or passages in the exchanger itself would be too small for the volume of flow being pumped through it. The condenser (as the name implies) is designed to have a pressure and state-of-matter difference across it, where a trans cooler is not. If it's a short and easy drive, I'd probably just loop the hoses. If there's some distance, and/or are likely to have some load on it (hills, mud, snow, etc.), I'd probably bend a loop of NiCopp hard line in front of the radiator. Either way, I would then keep an eye on temperatures with an OBDII scanner (if it's new enough) or an infrared gun, and upgrade as necessary.
  20. I use Amazon a lot, for a lot of things. But as mentioned you have to be very careful about counterfeit parts. Basically if it's anything that I care about brand or quality at all, I avoid Amazon. With the fleet of cars that I own, and fact that they all need parts, I'm constantly shopping around. I keep a spreadsheet with all the upcoming parts purchases, and a separate page for each car. I ALWAYS start with OEM part number and price. www.partsouq.com has complete, VIN specific parts diagrams. They also sell a lot of parts, OEM and quality aftermarket for a good price. It does ship from the UAE, though (pretty reasonable price and time frame, although should you need a refund for some reason, you are at the mercy of exchange rates to get back what you spent). www.subarupartsdeal.com to check price and availability (looks like partsforyou has similar information. I've ordered from Toyotapartsdeal many times, so I also use their Subaru site). www.rockauto.com. I make a several hundred dollar purchase from them about 3 times a year. I wait until I need a big list, and order all at once to save on shipping. Lately I've been using www.carid.com more and more. They have some really good prices on genuine Mitsuboshi belts, NSK bearings, Aisin hard parts, etc. I just bought timing parts for my Lexus 1UZ engine for about a third the price of OEM. Wiper blades are a huge profit source for brick and mortar stores. I've been buying Bosch Evolution beam blades on Rockauto for about $5 ea, and they're ~$15 in stores. Dealership parts departments generally use one of 2 pricing structures, Matrix or Velocity (sometimes a combination of both). Matrix marks up above MSRP on low-dollar parts, generally anything under $300 or so will be ~15% over MSRP. Velocity marks up slow moving parts above MSRP, and fast moving/easy to compare parts below it. The dealership I worked at sold 4-cyl oil filters for $4.95 for that reason. It's a good idea to compare your parts to MSRP, and get an idea of their pricing structure so you can use it to your advantage.
  21. A slow leak will slowly introduce air into the system, and the smaller the bubble, the smaller the symptoms. So it's possible. I'd definitely pressurize the system and look for other leaks.
  22. Assuming it's just the clutches that are burnt up, no, it won't hurt anything. If it cooked the bearings back there, it's possible to have an issue. Yes, the driveshaft output and center "diff" housing uses the same ATF as the transmission. Front differential/front axle outputs has it's own gear oil.
  23. Transfer clutches in the back of the transmission. These wear out under normal use, so I'm sure they're cooked. Pretty well documented how to replace them, can be done in the car.
  24. Bad connection somewhere. Like these guys said, could be in the circuit up to the ignition switch, a heavy duty relay would take the load off of that, or the contacts in the starter are wearing (or both, one can cause the other).