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Everything posted by Numbchux

  1. And people who want an answer. I probably know the answer to your question. But I still don't know your question. Good luck!
  2. Numbchux

    R160 locker coming soon!

    Cool. Is the 5-bolt version any stronger?
  3. Yep, my first thought is turbo, but it could be a lot of things. Also, if the turbo is bad enough, it can introduce debris into the oil, which in-turn kills the engine (which is why it's hard to find good used engines). It would be possible to put a non-turbo engine in. Would require many modifications. And you'd want to have the ECU retuned (the advantage of the turbo ECU is it is tuneable). But being that the non-turbo cars are so much more common, it would make so much more sense to just start with one.
  4. When unlocked, that center diff is open, so it's not as bad as a LSD center like the EJ boxes. But yea, really should run 4 identical tires.
  5. Turbo is DOHC. Best to pull the engine to remove the heads (probably possible without, but it's best to tilt the engine on it's side, as the cams have to come off to get to the head bolts). Smoking out the exhaust could be just about anything. Without a pretty in-depth diagnosis, assume it needs a complete new engine w/turbo.
  6. Numbchux

    R160 locker coming soon!

    Still worth getting hyped up for. I'll be buying one FOR SURE. There was mention in the Facebook post about 1-bolt and 5-bolt versions. Looks like these will drop into the factory carrier to replace the spider gears, so maybe there are 2 different versions. And I'm assuming it wouldn't work in place of a factory LSD. But these are all details.
  7. This! If you've got a You Pull it style junkyard nearby, find one with a late '90s/early '00s Subaru. Any 4-cylinder would work. Tensioner bracket bolts to the Compressor/alternator bracket, and there's another little bracket over the head. Just grab the whole assembly, compressor, lines, etc. It'll be more efficient with the r134a than the compressor that matches your engine. Then take a picture of the VIN if you need parts in the future.
  8. Numbchux

    Johnny 5 is alive

    Love the pop top! good work!
  9. Excellent highlight video. About a minute in, the slow rock trail is what I like. I don't think I've done anything quite that gnarly in our Outback, but close. A clean swap will remove the un-used parts of the harness, merging 2 into 1. Although the older cars have very little there to remove, so it's not as big of a deal to just leave it.
  10. Oh yea, it's a nightmare. Even with the A-pillar bars tight up against the firewall it makes it tough. I worked on a car where they had built the cage with the dash in place, and threaded the bars through the side defrost openings. We had to swap it to a non-turbo for a season, and it ended up with most of 2 harnesses in it so we wouldn't have to take it out twice in about 10 months.
  11. I'm surprised you didn't have something like that already. That sort of bracing is pretty SOP on rally cars. Here's what we did on Ziptie Rally v2 to reinforce the tower and tie it into the cage: In addition to a pretty beefy bolt-on fender brace that used both hinges.
  12. I don't think I've ever actually heard/seen failure due to flat towing. But the ATF would not circulate, so there's potential for bearing failure on several components, I think I'd be most worried about the stuff in the transfer section. I know there's a little pipe that feeds fluid up to the upper bearing in that rear output. Without any fluid flow there, I don't imagine that would last long (and the rear output rides right on that bearing, so yea, you'd have to pull the shaft to prevent that). Non VDC/VTD 4EATs do not send the torque for the front wheels through the transfer clutches, so that's not surprising at all. Pop out a front axle and try it again....you'll have a different experience
  13. That'll do it! I've never personally researched flat towing, but my grandparents lived in their motorhome for 10 years, and bought several cars in that time, and they went out of their way to find vehicles that were approved for flat towing from the manufacturer. So I was under the impression retrofitting wasn't possible. Of course, the last one they bought was probably 10 years ago, so things could easily have changed since then.
  14. Results will vary considerably from one tire to the other. Usually it's just a matter of water clearing, but I could absolutely see it leading to strange handling characteristics.
  15. Yea, I don't think it's worth trying to modify the 4EAT to be towed (or leave it idling the entire time...). So if you're going to do it, I'd definitely tow the '99. You'll want some extra cooling capacity on the '02, though. Last summer we went camping with my wife and daughter (about a year and a half at the time), aluminum boat (probably 1k lbs), bikes, tents, coolers, etc. etc. etc. I'm sure we were over GVWR, in our '04 VDC with an aux trans cooler. On the way out, it was about 95*F, and we had the A/C cranked. After a couple hours, the engine temp started to creep. We ended up turning the A/C off and taking it easy up the hills and it managed. Is your 02 a VDC? Either way, "1" and "2" will make the Duty C programming a bit more aggressive, but yes, "2" will keep it from downshifting to first.
  16. Absolutely. I bought a gallon each of the clean/prep products about 10 years ago, and I still have about 1/3 of each left. And I follow the process to the letter (IIRC, wash, rinse, etch, paint). The cleaning chemical should be diluted, and works best when hot. etc. I've never had a bad experience. I was just pulling one of the KYBs off my Celica that had blown after 8 years to send in for warranty through RockAuto, brake backing plates, lateral links, backing plates and calipers still look great (painted at the same time, seen probably 4 winters since then).
  17. Yep, I've done that. It's a B****. I'll do it with a rear diff, but not a transmission, thanks. Yea, seats swap (back seats are pretty specific sedan to sedan, wagon to wagon, but even that can be dealt with). Carpet fits OK. But that's about it.
  18. This might fall in the category of anecdote more than you were looking for, but it's fantastic stuff. I always keep it around (it doesn't store well, but you can buy 6-packs of little 4oz cans), and I use it on almost everything I take apart (brake calipers, control arms, etc.), remove loose stuff with a wire wheel on a grinder, and then use their cleaning and prep chemicals. 2 years ago I used an HVLP gun to spray it on the frame of my old 4Runner. Not necessarily. What really convinced me, is there's a company up in Canada that does fiberglass restoration panels for old Toyota trucks (www.toyotafiberglass.com , not the greatest website). He posts progress pictures on a lot of his jobs on yotatech, and he's using POR15 CONSTANTLY. Here's a relatively recent one. Rear quarter panels on a 4Runner. Here's what he found when the original quarters were peeled off: And here's after POR15 on all that inner structure: He gets good money for these jobs, and is booked out YEARS. Here's his show truck, 83 Trekker with a supercharged Tacoma 3.4, and the frame and all running gear in POR15:
  19. Yea, I'm always really wary of cars for sale without a title. It's usually pretty simple to get a duplicate (in MN for sure, I've done it) if it's actually in your name.
  20. It is possible to do it that way, but not better, IMO. If just using ramps to support the car, it's a PITA to get the front axles off the trans, far better to put it on stands so the ball joints can be popped out and axles taken loose. I've done it both ways many times. The higher the car off the ground, the better. Did it in a 4" lifted EA82 once, that wasn't too terrible, but if I were doing it again, I'd still pull the motor. Pulling a Subaru engine is so easy. The only way I remove/install a Subaru transmission from the bottom, is if I'm JUST replacing the transmission.
  21. My understanding, is that there is no JDM SOHC EJ25 (or at least, they're very rare). There is a 2.0l engine that is VERY similar, and can be swapped in place, certainly for the non-VVT variant. We bought 10 or so JDM engines a year at the Subaru dealership I worked at, non-VVT EJ201s and first-gen EZ30Ds were both pretty cheap. There definitely is a high demand for EJ253s in the US. Call a junkyard and tell them you're looking for one, they probably won't even have to log into their computer to know that they'll be hard to find (they're out there, but the supply/demand ratio in the normal used parts channels drives the price up a LOT).
  22. Yep, try to wait to touch the throttle until the clutch is fully engaged. I've ridden in cars several times where the driver is clearly dragging the clutch into the next gear....it drives me insane. I almost always do that from a stop, too. Feathering the clutch with the engine at idle until it's engaged, and then throttle. I probably stall it once a week in my Outback (gearing and weight make it easier in my Celica). Last week I felt like an idiot because I stalled it at least once a day, then I discovered I had a sticking brake....
  23. 90-94 and 95-99 are different body styles. No body parts will work, and very little interior. There are lots and lots of little mechanical changes, but at the same time, there are a lot of parts that will work. It's not an ideal parts car, but for the right price, if you've got the space, could be totally worth it. The '95-'96 are OBDII, which means a lot of electrical differences. 96 has single exhaust ports on the heads, whereas the 92 and 95 have dual. Should be the same brakes, suspension, axles. Assuming they're both AWD, drivetrain parts could be swapped, but diffs are likely a different ratio (so you'd have to swap transmission and differential as a pair). If it's not a total rust bucket, and is AWD, I'd fix it (I bought a pretty rusty '00 Outback last spring with 313k on it and a badly failing clutch. Put a clutch in it, and I'm at almost 325k now). Unless you have a hoist and a transmission jack, I DEFINITELY recommend pulling the engine.
  24. Numbchux

    Baja vs. Brat

    Yes, it's completely based on the Outback. The differences are pretty minor. Just like the Brat, it has a longer overhang past the back wheels, so a longer overall length. But the wheelbase is the same as the Outback. Suspension (different spring rates for a slightly taller ride), brakes, etc. Never an H6 option, though (I'd love to find a flooded one, and gut it down to bare metal and swap Outback VDC interior, wiring and drivetrain into one). The Baja did carry on after the BE/BH Outback was replaced, and so the Baja got some of the changes that happened in 05-06, mainly the turbo engine option and immobilizer.
  25. Numbchux

    Baja vs. Brat

    Baja is built in the US, though. So my understanding is the chicken tax wouldn't apply.