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Everything posted by Numbchux

  1. Yep, Impact driver. For Christmas I got a pair of Craftsman impact screwdrivers (functions the same, but looks like a normal screwdriver). Looks pretty cool......I haven't used them yet, though.
  2. I agree, most likely pressure switch But, if it's actually low pressure, and it has plenty of oil. These are the things to check. I think I'd check the oil pump first.
  3. I don't know what the tire size is, but the bolt pattern is the same. Offset is extremely close. Wheels will definitely bolt on. I'd bet money (and I'm not a betting person), that the tire size is close enough. But find the tire sizes (Baja would have come with a 225/60r16 stock in the US) and run them through a tire calculator.
  4. A gas engine needs 3 things to run. Fuel, ignition, and compression. Diagnose them individually. Getting the right gasoline mixture can be a challenge, but starting fluid is volatile enough that it's MUCH more forgiving. So that means you have a compression or ignition issue. Pretty unlikely to completely loose compression on all 4 cylinders so suddenly. So you're likely down to ignition. That means more than just having spark. It has to happen at the right time. Within about 10 degrees and you should get a pop. An EA82 will run on just the LH bank, as the distributor is driven off that cam, regardless of the RH side (I had a buddy that stopped at my house because his EA82 was even more gutless than usual, turned out his RH cam had seized). So you can assume that your problem is on the LH side. Unlikely that your ignition timing has changed considerably on it's own, but completely possible that the belt has. It's not terribly hard to pull the other timing belt cover on the LH side, and compare the mark on the cam pulley to the 3 lines on the flywheel. I bet it's jumped (I've heard of timing jumping as a result of bump-starting, so if it had a dead battery....).
  5. The nut is part of the axle, so if it's not spinning, something isn't spinning. If the shaft is spinning, but not the outer joint, than there's your break. I'm guessing this is the case. If you put it in 4WD, it should drive fairly normally (effectively RWD, now).
  6. Manual or Automatic transmission? FWD or 4WD? Help us out. What part of the CV axle is spinning? Just the inner joint? Shaft? Outer joint? Pop the wheel cover off and start it, is the axle nut spinning? Sounds like either axle failure, or the splines on the hub have stripped.
  7. Most has been said. Brakes and air filter should be priority #1 Tie rod end will either be a little inconvenience ranging to a genuine safety risk depending how bad it was. If it was more than just a little sign of wear, they should have refused to do an alignment on it. If you trust the shop to take care of you, it's probably just something to think about in the next year or so. Also possible that they don't care about your safety, or the fact that doing an alignment on a car with bad steering components is a waste of time and money. The leaks aren't an issue, as long as you don't run out of fluids, and don't park on any nice concrete. So make sure to know how to check the relevant fluids (engine oil, transmission fluid, and power steering fluid, in this case), and check them every gas stop. The only exception is if there's a lot of oil getting onto the spark plug wires. Pull the ends out of the heads (should be fairly easy to do that), and look for oil on there. If there's a lot, that can be an issue for the ignition system. Change the rear diff gear oil. I think it's about a quart (have 2 handy) of 80w90 GL-5 gear oil (the most common stuff you can find). Buy a little transfer pump that'll fit on the gear oil bottle. Jack up the car, use a 1/2" breaker bar to pull the 2 plugs (upper fill plug first, if you drain the oil, and then can't get the fill plug on, you're screwed, although if they checked the fluid, they would have just had the plug out). Once the old fluid drains out, put the lower plug in, and pump new oil in the top plug until it overflows. Then put the top plug in and your done.
  8. Yep, my immediate thought is sticking brake. They can do all kinds of weird things. I occasionally check brake temperatures to make sure they're even. The best test is drive on the freeway for some time (30 minutes+), and then coast to a stop on the exit ramp using the brakes as little as possible. Then I get out, walk around, and feel the heat off the brake rotors (use caution, if they're working correctly, the rotors should just be warm, but if you've got something sticking, it'll be HOT, you'll feel the heat radiating well outside the wheel). Rule of thumb, is they should be about the same temperature side-to-side (fronts likely warmer than rears). Either way, I'd have those apart, and carefully inspect every moving part. I'd push the fluid out of the calipers to make sure there is fresh fluid in them and they move well, I'd clean and grease the slides, make sure the pads move smoothly in the mounts, etc. Grease everything with a high-quality grease (I use the purple bottle permatex ceramic brake grease).
  9. Yep, 3 pin sensor serves for the ECU and gauge. So it's exposed to the exact same temperature, so a calibration issue seems most likely. But I don't like to encourage just swapping parts without diagnostics. Any codes? I'd point an infrared thermometer at the coolant bridge and verify actual temperature. And then read the temperature at the ECU via an OBDII reader. You can buy an infrared thermometer and OBDII dongle (read codes and temperature from you phone) on Amazon for $30-40 combined.
  10. If there's no bushing between the absorber shaft and the body, you may want to consider shimming/slotting the mount in some way to reduce stress on it. Because of the forward/aft movement of the rear swing arm, it will bend that rod a bit. Both WJM and I tried mounting factory rear shocks (his were BE/BH Legacy, and mine were NA Miata) to an EA82 by deleting the bushing. It worked fine for a month or so, and we both snapped a shock absorber shaft right where it meets the upper mount. Not a fun experience. I switched to an NB Miata shock, which does use a big bushing on the top, and never had a problem.
  11. I think by '02 it was all in one sensor. Is the car getting hot? In the winter, it'll have to sit idle with the heat off for some time to get hot enough to require the fans. The main fan on our H6 Outback was seized, and I didn't even notice until some very slow offroading. I don't know the resistance values. But I tested mine just with an OBD II reader. After leaving the car sit overnight, the coolant temp reads about the same as the intake air temp, and while driving, it sits at about 185*.
  12. I've never redrilled strut towers. On a couple cars, I had to open up the holes a touch with a dremel, but that's it. Lengthening the control arms isn't a major geometry change, gets done every day on MacPherson cars. Don't worry about it. As long as your welds are strong, and it doesn't bind the joint, let 'er buck.
  13. What he said. I'd bet Ujoints. And assuming the gear ratio is correct, the diff would swap right in.
  14. Been done many many times. You'll need an EJ/EA adapter plate to mount the transmission to the engine. But you'll have to fabricate mounts, linkages, and likely a custom length driveshaft.
  15. Yea, if you're extending the arms, you'll probably be fine. The length is very similar, if not identical. BUT, the tab coming off the knuckle for the tie rod end is angled differently on an EJ knuckle than EA82/XT6. So with XT6 knuckles, you can just use XT6/EJ rod ends. But with EJ ones, you need shorter rod ends. This changes the geometry a bit, and gives the car a bit more Akermann angle.
  16. Or just bore the ball joint opening in the EA82 control arm for the EJ joint. Also need EA81 tie rod ends (EA82 uses smaller stud in the knuckle than EA81 or EJ, and EJ ones are too long).
  17. Yep, I totally get it, and applaud you for doing it. My caution is that this idea is fairly experimental, and pretty far from simply replacing a couple control arms. Good point on the EA trailing arms, pretty easy to improve on that design. I saw your measurements on this setup, I'd be curious to see how that compares to the stock setup...
  18. Sort of, but it will still require moving the pivot point on the crossmember. So you're not going to get around the fabrication. Also that relocation will likely interfere with the exhaust. I'm still skeptical how that change would work on the road. I can't picture exactly how those links all work in concert, but lengthening that one will definitely change the way the car handles. Might be acceptable, might be imperceptible, might even be an improvement. I'm actually a bit tempted to try it on my beater in the spring, as once the salt is washed off the roads it won't be my daily driver, and the subframe is rusted and will be replaced anyway (I already have a new one).
  19. I wonder what the reason for that link being so much shorter is. Seems like it would change toe and/or camber through the range of travel. I'm curious to see how that change would effect the way the car handles.
  20. Numbchux

    six speed?

    FYI, the adapter plate with work to fairly easily adapt an EJ engine to an EA transmission. It will not work the other way around. It could be done, but it would require a custom flywheel to take up the extra depth. The 6MT is roughly the same size as the 4EAT transmission. In '87.5, the EA82 transmission tunnel got bigger to accommodate that. It will easily fit in the newer EA82s, it's been done in the early EA82s, but at the very least requires a spacer to lower the transmission in the tunnel (but that's not ideal for driveline angles). It's been done in EA81s, but AFAIK only with tunnel modification. Anything is possible with enough money and fabrication. But far from bolt-on. Also absolutely zero reason for it unless you've done the engine swap (no '80s engine can produce enough power to require the strength), and other driveline modifications.
  21. I've done 3 joints in the last year or so. One on an '04 Outback, and the other a '00 Outback. Process should be the same for basically all Subarus. We've tried used ones here, most of them have worn joints...not worth the install time IMHO.Dorman makes an aftermarket shaft, same part number for '96-'04 Outback AT. I fished a donor shaft out of the scrap bin here at work with bad joints that came from an '07 4EAT Outback. I've measured it, and held it up under my car, and it looks like it should work, at least temporarily (front half was hardest to measure, looks like it might be a hair short, but I'm not worried about the slip yoke having a little less engagement for street use for a week).Rockford offers joints specifically to replace the staked in applications. Here's their application list for the 430-10 part (the Justy is the only Subaru found elsewhere in their list).http://www.rockforddriveline.com/media/documents/Vehicle_Fitment_430-10.pdfYou may notice it lists Legacy/Outback 1990-2009.Using parts interchange listings, and trying other vehicles on that list, I came up with a few other part numbers. Napa lists a UJ10430, although there was no availability. Autozone lists a 2-0430DL, of which they had 4 in their Hub store across town. I now have 2 of those sitting on my desk (they are greasable, btw). 1. The joint before I started, you can see some of the 8 little "stakes" being deformations in the outer yoke holding the caps in. 20180827_192114 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've seen 2 ways to do staked in joints (generally, not specifically Subaru), one is to grind the stakes out, and the other is to just use a press to push through them. In my experimenting on other shafts, it takes an enormous amount of force (easily the most I've ever done on my little 12 ton HF press), so I opted to grind first. High speed metal cutting bit on the dremel does a pretty good work down in the corners. 20180827_192401 by Numbchux, on Flickr While I had it out, I used the dremel to make a few light marks on the yoke and the shaft itself to ensure the orientation when it came time to reassemble. 20180827_192552 by Numbchux, on Flickr 2. Then over to the press, make sure to support the other end of the shaft pretty well. 20180827_192748 by Numbchux, on Flickr 3. Once it's pressed off to one side, the stakes become really clear (some of these are ground down, some are un-touched). 20180827_192926 by Numbchux, on Flickr 4. Flip it over and press it back all the way through to flatten those stakes. Then lay it with the opposite yokes supported (a vice works best for this), and pound on the yoke so those cups can be pushed out beyond the ears. Don't pound on the thin part at the top of the ears, and don't pound on the shaft tubing itself. 20180827_193255 by Numbchux, on Flickr 5. Flip over and repeat the other way until those cups are pushed as far out of the yoke as possible. It should get to the point where the cross of the ujoint can be removed from the yoke (if those cups are damaged, you might need to sneak a punch passed the cross to push the cup out further, just make sure not to damage the yoke). 20180827_193408 by Numbchux, on Flickr 6. Then pound the cups out the rest of the way: 20180827_193515 by Numbchux, on Flickr Rotate the shaft 90*, and repeat steps 1-6 to remove the other 2 caps, and remove the joint completely. 7. Now switch to a softer dremel bit (wire wheel or sanding drum work well) to clean up the inside of the yoke, you want to smooth everything out without taking off really any material. You'll also want to run a flat file across the inner surface of those ears, as the new joints will be held in place by snaprings against this surface. 20180827_195537 by Numbchux, on Flickr 8. Now to start preparing the new joint. The four cups need to be removed from the center cross, inside those cups are needle bearings which have to stay in place, and the only thing holding them there is grease. They *should* be pregreased with assembly lube for this purpose, but I don't trust it, so I hold the caps in place by hand and gently pump some fresh grease through them: 20180827_194557 by Numbchux, on Flickr 9. Then pull the caps off. You'll notice I removed the grease zerk from the one cap to protect it from damage, this is optional, but IMHO a good idea. 20180827_194833 by Numbchux, on Flickr 10. Put the cross in the middle of the yoke, and one of the caps in from the outside. You want to hold the cross inside the cap as tight as possible as you press on it to help keep those needle bearings in place. 20180827_194903 by Numbchux, on Flickr 11. Then press it in well past it's final resting place. This simplifies putting on that snapring, and aligning the opposing cup. 20180827_201328 by Numbchux, on Flickr 12. Put the snapring on the one cup, then put the opposite cup from the other side, and again slide the cross into the new cup as you press it in. This is a bit tricky, as you have to get it pressed in far enough to get the second snapring on, but you don't want to put too much pressure on the bearings to damage them (although, the cross should bottom out in the cups before the needle bearings bear the brunt of the weight) Back to step 10 to finish the other half of the joint, taking care to reassemble in the same orientation that you started with. Install the grease zerk (if you removed it), and grease. 20180827_203215 by Numbchux, on Flickr Now flip the shaft and do it all again at the other end. Install in the car, and enjoy!
  22. We tried to buy a used shaft a couple times when I worked at the Subaru dealership here, and it always took several tries to get one that was even acceptable (thank goodness we had a great relationship with a great junkyard). So yea, I think that's very much regional. We saw many joint failures, and several of them were catastrophic. Carrier bearing failures were VERY rare by comparison. Yes, this probably falls under the DIYer category, and doesn't generally make sense to pay shop labor. There are 2 driveline shops here in town (not a big town, so I assume there are places like this all around the country) that will replace the carrier bearing and both joints for about $250 with a day turnaround. Not to mention new aftermarket shafts, etc. Although, with better tools, I think I could do one in less than 30 minutes, parts cost is less than $20 ea, you could make money. But, for a guy who has a press (Mine is a ~$80 Harbor Freight one, I've done countless wheel bearings, suspension bushings, etc.), a few hours over the weekend might make more sense.
  23. Yea, that got kind of buried in there. There's a link there to the Rockford Driveline application list, which shows their number as 430-10. Good point on the number of joints. Around 2000, Subaru replaced the center U-joint with a DOJ. So those models only require 2, but the older ones require a 3rd in the center.
  24. That's fantastic. Hat tip to you for thinking out of the box, and getting it done. I'm adding this to the Retrofitting FAQ.
  25. Punctuation is cool. I'd love to help, but I have no idea wtf you're asking.