Numbchux

I've had pretty poor luck with aftermarket ones leaking in less than a year. 25240KA041 genuine Subaru number, MSRP is $24.57. Every dealer has a pile of them (I have 15 at the moment). I used a Subaru switch on my Toyota Celica because I was tired of the aftermarket ones leaking and the Toyota one has an MSRP of $71

I've done a few different restoration techniques. None of them terribly difficult, and look great at first. But I generally see them start to cloud again within a year. I did one that involved protecting them with Spar Urethane, which I think lasted 2 or 3. Lately I just put some fine polishing compound on my buffer, and do a couple passes on them. I try to do this for our daily drivers every fall so they're perfect for the dark winter. The hardest part is finding the tote of car wash stuff and getting it out and an extension cord out to the cars. It's about 1 minute of actual buffing per car.

Yes. There is a calibration procedure for the Eyesight cameras. I think many glass companies can do it themselves (or maybe most of them just send it without calibrating....), but we do get them coming into the shop just for the calibration.

Yes, anything with an electronic parking brake (Subaru or otherwise) needs to have the system reset with new pads. The parking brake actuator is a stepper motor, and it needs to relearn where "home" is again. Just like turning the piston in on an EA82 front, or the self adjusters on a drum brake car, but electronically. I have a couple mid level ($100-200) scan tools that have an option for EPB relearn. I don't have any cars that need it, so I can't say how well it actually works. If you're doing any repair/diagnostic on a CAN OBD car yourself, you need a scan tool that can interface with other modules on the car.

Factory EA82 studs have about a 14.2mm knurl diameter (according to the Dorman listing), new gen Subarus are 14.38 (but the shoulder is too long for EA applications, as the rotor doesn't slip over the studs). Looks like I used a 35/64 drill bit (13.89mm). I also used Dorman 610378 studs, which have a 14.48mm knurl diameter, smaller head (easier to seat with the curved material on the back of the hub where they need to be), about 10mm longer overall, but short enough shoulder even for steelies (open lug nuts required, though).

Most shops are willing to press a bearing into a knuckle for a nominal fee. This would be far cheaper than replacing all those parts. Same amount of labor. Only downside is having the car apart for a trip to a shop. Heck, probably would still be economical to buy a junkyard knuckle and have a shop press in bearings. We had a customer bring their car into the dealership where I work for a rear bearing. Turned out it had a complete aftermarket knuckle installed not long ago (not purchased from a retailer willing to help with the replacement cost). We tried to install an OEM bearing, and it didn't fit! We had to replace the hub with an OEM one as well. Just another story of the risks of cheap parts.

I do not delete EGR on almost any of my vehicles. But I know they often have a temperature sensor as part of the circuit to verify the systems functionality. Good video, I suggest you watch it. Lots of good information about why it's supposed to be exhaust gasses. It's not "just air".

Super easy. Unplug the white connector from the module mounted vertically to the left of the steering column. Here's the old write-up on it, but looks like the pictures are dead. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diy-disabling-drl-2000-2004.6668/

If the coolant bypassing the radiator (through the heater core[s] in this case) is adequately removing the heat, than the thermostat doesn't need to open. As long as there's adequate circulation, the thermostat will open when it's needed. In theory, removing the thermostat entirely can be counterproductive, as increasing the coolant flow means it doesn't spend enough time in the radiator to actually dissipate the heat.

Make sure you actually bypass the heater core. Circulation through that circuit is what warms up (and therefore opens) the thermostat.

So when the EGR valve opens, the engine revs up? It's supposed to go to the exhaust... I'm confused

Remove fuse 14 for 1 minute. Or disconnect the battery.

You connected your EGR pipe to the airbox? Um.....

Those are ground wires, specifically for plugging into that diagnostic connector. Insert one into pin 5.

Found this showing testing the diagnosis terminals I show B82 as the door lock timer on an Lx. You should be looking for B58. insert one of those terminals that should be taped into the harness next to it (or just jumper to ground) in pin 5, and you should get some codes.

I'm looking at the manuals while I have time here at work. But off the top of my head, I know the '95 Lx is a unique animal. OBDII, same connector as the other camlock early OBDII ECUs, but different pinout. So make sure anything you search for is specific for the '95 Lx 2.2 Impreza. I'm sure the right code reader could do A/T diag through the OBDII port. Maybe FreeSSM

Trailing arms and brakes are all different. You could probably use the 4WD trailing arms on the 2WD Crossmember, and then just weld on the 2 tabs for the forward diff mount. 2 bolts on either side for the mustache bar mounts. Yes, there are dimples in the right spot. I'm sure the factory 4WD cars had a captive nut there. But there seemed to be a decent amount of steel, so I tapped them and bolted it in. Probably not correct....but I beat the hell out of that car for many years (ice racing and autocrossing, as well as pizza delivery, daily driving, and even some offroading later in it's life), and had zero issues with that.

Been done many times. Swap the whole rear suspension in. I drilled and tapped into the frame rails for the rear diff rear crossmember. Carrier bearing mount for the driveshaft will need to be fabricated. I just bent a couple pieces of flat stock, bolted them through the tunnel. It was pretty poorly done, but I was young and dumb, and it worked. I later had a 1 piece shaft made. Everything else pretty much bolts in. Shift linkage, axles, clutch. Center console is different between a Loyale and GL, so it might not look pretty unless you swap the entire console. But it'll work. That car was EJ22 swapped at the same time, and probably lasted another 75k miles, with multiple different drivetrain combinations, until at least 3 owners after me was drunk and went straight through a "T" intersection at 60+mph. Hit hard enough to kink the roof, but the drivetrain was fine.

Yep, I've done a few variations of that on several vehicles.

I assume so, I'd have to study to remember. But almost certainly switch to ground.

That's true of the main oil pressure switch. But he said "on the head". The VVT switches thread right into the head casting. If that cracks, it's no small project to repair. Yes, BSP pipe thread, which is tapered to help it seal. It should not bottom out. Thread sealant of some sort should be added.

The VDC models had side airbags in the seat. To my knowledge, none of these models were available with cloth seats AND side airbags. You could probably put a resister in the connector to make the system think the side airbags were present, and then you'd have the same protection as the other models. But definitely something to be aware. Off the top of my head, I think the Outback ones will likely all be tan interior. You can get a Legacy L one with All-Weather package and gray cloth, but it will likely not be power. Passenger seats are all manual, but again I think you'll sacrifice the side airbag. Rear seats should all be interchangeable within body style (wagon vs sedan vs Baja), maybe even across. I put a back seat from a '98 OBK Wagon into a '99 OBK Sedan years ago. The cushion was a touch different, but it bolted right up, and looked better than the torn one that was there.

Pretty sure there's a neutral switch on the transmission, if you wanted to use it. But yea, clutch switch is fine

I had a similar issue on my 35th anniversary car (2004). Critters had gotten into the left rear quarter panel and chewed the wiring harness. Shorting the turn signal circuit to the LR light, and damaging the wiring to the antenna (I think your 2000 will have a conventional antenna on the roof over the driver's door). Every time I used the Left turn signal, the gauge cluster would go dead. As long as I remembered not to use that signal, things were cool. If you can't think of a more specific correlation between using a function like that and the failure, I'd buy a breaker for that fuse so it could be reset and continue on. Hope that helps!

Could be a few things. Usually a driveshaft or sticking caliper will be effected by throttle/brake use, but not always. If putting the FWD fuse in makes it go away, it's likely driveshaft or rear axle related. If it's a sticking caliper, spending some time at speed and then gently stopping will leave one brake VERY Hot (like, just hold your hand in front of the wheel, you'll feel it. Don't touch the rotor!) Inspect all suspension bushings. Control arms, ball joints, tie rods and ends, steering rack bushings, etc. A combination of a slightly out of balance tire and a couple of old bushings, for example, can turn into a pretty good wobble.