Numbchux

It's 30 years old. It's only averaged about 1k miles per year, but it's traveled halfway around the world. Sitting is very hard on cars, depending on the environment. Being shipped across the pacific is very hard on cars. This is not going to be a turnkey car. The is going to be a labor of love (or money). Have something else to get you to work on time. There's nothing inherently wrong with the mechanicals of the EJ20H. Those are great heads, very difficult to warp. One of the better phase 1 shortblocks out there. But, the twin turbo systems are notoriously complicated. Using a nest of vacuum hoses and a bunch of solenoids to actuate all of that. Those hoses will likely be rotted and leaky. Good documentation on them is slim. Electronics are outdated, capacitors are likely leaking and causing a bunch of little issues. Anything rubber is dryrotted, anything greased is sticky. Many parts are shared with other models, some of those will still be available. Anything specific to that model with likely be very difficult to get. Convert to single turbo and a modern ECU, and it would probably be a great car.

You're going to drop the suspension ~8" and leave the steering rack where it is? That's going to require so much modification to the knuckles to try to maintain the geometry, much lower offset wheels (which will put more load on said steering). You don't need an entire second factory crossmember. You only need brackets to support the motor mounts. Add a plate to grab the 2 studs on the "back" (now front) of the differential. Generally at that height, the lift blocks spacing the crossmembers and other suspension pickup points are tied together to make a bit of a frame, and then the transfer case and "front" (now rear) of the new differential can mount to that. Good picture of the bottom. You can see all the extra bracing added from the suspension mounts, and crossmembers that mount the diff and tcase. As well as rock sliders. And a good picture of a front crossmember/engine mount situation. Lots of room for the steering shaft.

Generally the front crossmember is spaced down, and diff mounts fabbed to it (this way suspension and steering mounts are all kept correct), and then motor mounts fabbed above that, usually incorporated into the subframe spacers. Generally the crossmember needs to be spaced down from the body about 8" to provide adequate clearance to the oil pan. I think all the cars where I'd seen it done still ran the EA81 or EA82 engine, so not much power to speak of. Which probably helps keep the diff alive. And with actual lockers available now, it'd be a lot easier to abuse.

Manual transmission cars have the guide over the crank sprocket. I've seen the belts get grooved up if that's adjusted too tight. But I assume you've encountered that. I've not noticed any wear like that on a 2005+ car with the covers on.

Threebond 1324 is a thread locker and sealer. So on the bolts. Theoretically the gasket goes on dry, but I always put a smear of sealant on the gasket. I would probably use anaerobic if I were doing it now. I keep Permatex anaerobic on hand at home. Subaru also lists "3M™ High-Strength Threadlocker, #08730" as an alternative to 1324, which is likely much easier to source. More Threebond information than one could ever need (I found it VERY interesting) https://threebond.com/wp-content/uploads/Products-Guide_ver6-LOCAL.pdf Subaru replaces and updates what Threebond product to use so often that it's very difficult to follow. I just made a list of the 5 sealant products that are currently available from Subaru with notes about different applications to try to helps us keep them straight (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). I have to say, I had a pretty visceral reaction when I saw a post from WJM in the list today.

I would bet externally interchangeable. Definitely different internals, but I suspect due to different assist amounts. I know the pumps have different volume and pressure specs. I'd try it. YMMV

Well, it's more complicated than I implied. The current part number, 11044AA610, is steel as far as I can tell. There are 3 older part numbers that were replaced by the 610, I am much less clear what the material of those were, either from my memory or service manuals. So the factory installed ones might have been a different material.

It is here, too. But getting another rust free shell is no small feat in this part of the world. IIRC he travelled to California for this one. Not to mention the modifications already done to this one. That looks pretty nasty, but all ahead of the suspension mounts, so it doesn't need to be mm perfect.

Yep, Subaru shows 879996 as the Transmission serial and 424274 for the engine (IIRC stamped into the engine block next to the starter).

The 4EATs are not picky about what fluid to use. You can buy Dex III, it's usually labeled Dex/Merc (Dexron/Mercon). That's the cheap conventional stuff, works great, meets all the specifications. I buy 2.5g house brand jugs of it at Fleet Farm. All Dexrons are backwards compatible. So you can use those. Most will be synthetic (certainly anything you can find new) Subaru officially superseded to HP. So anything that meets Subaru HP will also work. This will all be synthetic. This is what we carry and use (I work at a Subaru dealership) I honestly think the change to HP was just to use a synthetic so they can extend suggested service intervals and/or in an attempt to reduce resistance for better mileage. I have not found any part or seal that changed part number when they switched to the HP. If I had a newer 4EAT, I'd dump conventional dex/merc in it.

Correction. All SOHC EJ25s list single layer. All DOHC EJ25s have MLS. At least in the US. There are several MLS gasket part numbers, they changed through the years. The most common problem number ends in 633, and can be replaced with number 642.

Oh yea, according to Uhaul, I only use their equipment to move 90s Corollas and Civics

The Diagnostic Flow chart for that (Subaru lists under P0638 to refer to P2101, so you might find more information that way) has 29 steps to it, and only the last 2 suggest replacing the throttle body. In short, it means that the ECU is asking for a target throttle angle, and the TPS reading it's getting back does not match. There are FSMs online in various places, I suggest looking it up and running through that chart for your car (FYI, the "U5" section is California Emissions) You are correct that the "sensor" is not a separate replaceable part, as it is integrated into the actuator and motor. It's actually 2 redundant sensors.

Yep, you have an electronic throttle. The throttle position sensor is built into the actuator. Replacing the sensor means replacing the throttle body. The sensor you're looking at is manifold pressure. Just because an ebay listing says it fits doesn't make it true.

Many 2004s are still cable as well (Legacy chassis, only Cali 2.5s and Baja turbos). But yea

www.partsouq.com Works with many manufacturers, and can lookup by VIN. I'm a dealership parts guy by trade, and I use it all the time. Sometimes has some good aftermarket interchange info, too. www.amayama.com has some, too. It's been a long time since I've used opposed forces.

So awesome. I love exploring that area! The time required to get my Outback or 4Runner into a condition to confidently do that is just not on my priority list right now. So I'm living vicariously through you!

I've had pretty poor luck with aftermarket ones leaking in less than a year. 25240KA041 genuine Subaru number, MSRP is $24.57. Every dealer has a pile of them (I have 15 at the moment). I used a Subaru switch on my Toyota Celica because I was tired of the aftermarket ones leaking and the Toyota one has an MSRP of $71

I've done a few different restoration techniques. None of them terribly difficult, and look great at first. But I generally see them start to cloud again within a year. I did one that involved protecting them with Spar Urethane, which I think lasted 2 or 3. Lately I just put some fine polishing compound on my buffer, and do a couple passes on them. I try to do this for our daily drivers every fall so they're perfect for the dark winter. The hardest part is finding the tote of car wash stuff and getting it out and an extension cord out to the cars. It's about 1 minute of actual buffing per car.

Yes. There is a calibration procedure for the Eyesight cameras. I think many glass companies can do it themselves (or maybe most of them just send it without calibrating....), but we do get them coming into the shop just for the calibration.

Yes, anything with an electronic parking brake (Subaru or otherwise) needs to have the system reset with new pads. The parking brake actuator is a stepper motor, and it needs to relearn where "home" is again. Just like turning the piston in on an EA82 front, or the self adjusters on a drum brake car, but electronically. I have a couple mid level ($100-200) scan tools that have an option for EPB relearn. I don't have any cars that need it, so I can't say how well it actually works. If you're doing any repair/diagnostic on a CAN OBD car yourself, you need a scan tool that can interface with other modules on the car.

Factory EA82 studs have about a 14.2mm knurl diameter (according to the Dorman listing), new gen Subarus are 14.38 (but the shoulder is too long for EA applications, as the rotor doesn't slip over the studs). Looks like I used a 35/64 drill bit (13.89mm). I also used Dorman 610378 studs, which have a 14.48mm knurl diameter, smaller head (easier to seat with the curved material on the back of the hub where they need to be), about 10mm longer overall, but short enough shoulder even for steelies (open lug nuts required, though).

Most shops are willing to press a bearing into a knuckle for a nominal fee. This would be far cheaper than replacing all those parts. Same amount of labor. Only downside is having the car apart for a trip to a shop. Heck, probably would still be economical to buy a junkyard knuckle and have a shop press in bearings. We had a customer bring their car into the dealership where I work for a rear bearing. Turned out it had a complete aftermarket knuckle installed not long ago (not purchased from a retailer willing to help with the replacement cost). We tried to install an OEM bearing, and it didn't fit! We had to replace the hub with an OEM one as well. Just another story of the risks of cheap parts.

I do not delete EGR on almost any of my vehicles. But I know they often have a temperature sensor as part of the circuit to verify the systems functionality. Good video, I suggest you watch it. Lots of good information about why it's supposed to be exhaust gasses. It's not "just air".

Super easy. Unplug the white connector from the module mounted vertically to the left of the steering column. Here's the old write-up on it, but looks like the pictures are dead. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diy-disabling-drl-2000-2004.6668/