Numbchux

from a friend, just passing it along i am currently in the market for a decent set of coilovers. i have been on ebay and all i see is 2.5 rs and wrx springs. some of the 2.5rs one are labelled as "95-01 impreza 2.5rs". my question is will these springs work on my 95 LX. there are also some on there that say "97-01 on impreza 2.5rs wrx" thanks for any and all advice

also, won't putting 25-26" tires on stock suspension hit my wheel well alot?

sounds great, so one more question, wheres the best place to look for pugs? I haven't looked at all, but would assume that a junkyard would be my best bet, am I right? thanks so much!

ok, but how hard is it to do the 3AT -> 5spd conversion? and, if an actual lift isn't the way to go, How would you recommend getting a few more inches of ground clearance. Would just bigger tires get me what I want? Would the restricted suspension travel be worth it? What's the answer here?

Here's the deal, I have a '92 Loyale 3AT FWD in solid Mechanical Condition, and an '85 GL 5spd D/R with some nasty rust issues (frame collapsing, almost no safe place to put jack stands anymore without risk of punching holes) and some engine problems (25 mpg max, almost no power, suspected vacuum leak). Should I put the 5spd D/R tranny and drivetrain/suspension under the Loyale and TBI motor? Or just fix the vacuum leak and drive the GL into the ground and sell the loyale? and if I do make these two good cars into one sweet car and one pile o' parts, should I lift it? I don't need/want much, but I have bottomed out a couple times and would like to have a bit more clearance, I'm thinking the BYB 3" and some larger tires on stock rims, is it worth it? or is there an easier/more sensible way to get a couple more inches of clearance? What do yall think?

I second that Also, this might be different on the EA81's but I don't remember the Haynes manual seperating them, the sending unit on my EA82 Wagon is on the top of the tank, but is accessable by peeling back the carpet in the cargo area. Little lump just to the right of center w/3 screws around it, but, like I said, this may very well be different on yours

well, yes, it probably helped that I drove up in them (I only needed new keys because the old ones were almost unusably worn)

I beleive there is a writeup on reading codes in the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual, and you should be able to read the codes even if the light is not on (they store it to memory). the computer is under the steering column, take of the panel (5 or 6 screws), turn on the ignition (engine need not be running), and count the long and short flashes (long = first digit, short = second digit). then look it up. my haynes manual has all the codes if the repair manual doesn't

sounds like it might be a vacuum leak , ours won't kickdown for that reason, but your problem is a bit more complicated so maybe not

my local subie dealer has cut me 2 new keys for free, one from the code on the key, but the other just from the VIN. Ask before you go pulling out door locks. -Chux

WOA!!! I have one too!!!!

I don't want to fan this fire any more, but I am very doubtful about this, but what do I know! Go For It! Heck, Maybe next winter I'll park the Subaru and ride the bus everywhere to see if it's possible! These are some great ideas and I think someone should run with them.

I tend to wind mine out to 4500-5k

JOIN www.mnsubaru.com !!!!!!!!!!!

I would like to convert my carbureted GL to TBI, or even MPFI. visually it looks like a pretty similar setup, and my haynes/chiltons manuals seem to have them seperated very sparingly. Am I nuts? or is this possible?

Upon further research, I pulled the CV joint apart, but didn't tear the boot (don't ask how, maybe I'm just painfully lucky) I can feel all the balls etc. in the boot. My dad is convinced I'll have to replace the Axle/CV, but I think it's possible to reasemble it.

this is a very long and complicated story, but here's the basics of it, the left front ball joint on my GL came apart while I was moving, very slowly but moving nonetheless. Well, this caused the axle to be pulled from the transmission. What did I do? did I just pull the peices out of their places so now I must crack it all open and redo it, or did I break something (other than the ball joint)?

meet the biggest doofus in the world, it was a fuse, but it's better now

my Gl is running way to rich, and as a result, hesitates on acceleration, and dies unless you're foot is on the gas (fixed that by adjusting throttle cable, but i think that was just the easy fix), is there an easy adjustment for the mixture? Is this a common problem? any ideas?

The Y-pipe on my '85 gl wagon (EA82) is shot, but my dad saved his from his '80? gl sedan (EA81) in the rafters of the garage, it's brand-new, would they be interchangeable? if not, would it be an easy modification?