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MorganM

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About MorganM

  • Rank
    Do you Subaru?
  • Birthday 06/24/1980

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    paganqwa

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    TwinCities
  • Interests
    Computers, Cars, D&D
  • Occupation
    Enterprise Storage Analyst
  • Ezboard Name
    PaganQWA
  • Biography
    I talk too much trash.
  • Vehicles
    1997 Impreza OBS
  1. hi sorry to bother but i just bought a 79 wagon and found an old post of yours about these rotten 13" wheels. i'd love to move up to a 14" or 15" for all terrain. stock wheel in 14" or some work involved? Lemme know if i'm being intrusive and i'll stick to threads, i'm new on this and don't really know the proper etiquite.

  2. Requires splitting open the tranny to fix. I don't have time to swap in another tranny... trying to finish my home and move ASAP. I sold it so I can focus on more important things.
  3. This same problem just manifested on my 4EAT during this morning's commute =( Does this require removal and splitting apart the tranny? Or is it accessible if I drop the pan? Is this a repair or project for a DIY shade tree mechanic? Don't bother and just swap in another tranny? Please advise
  4. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110057 There's a link to it. That's at the Iron Range OHVRA in Minnesota. Fun place to spend a weekend wheel'n =)
  5. No sealant needed for the housing that bolts to the water pump. Hit those bolts with some PB Blaster before you get started; the heads like to twist off and that's never fun. The rubber seal slips over the rim of the t-stat.... tounge and grove style. There is a thin groove along the inner side of the seal. The razor thin edge of the t-stat slips into that. When you pull out the old t-stat and pull off that seal you'll see how it works. Also note the orientation of the t-stat in the water pump so you put the new one in correctly. If you have no idea when the last time the hoses were replaced then I'd replace them... now you know! =) Top hose should be HOT. That's where the engine pumps water out and in to the radiator. The water pump sucks it in from the bottom of the radiator. Also note that the bottom hose has an extra sleeve over it on the elbow so it's nearly twice as thick as the upper hose; this can mask how hot it really feels because there's more insulation around it.
  6. I'd still find out where it's coming from so you can judge if it's worth fixing or not. Maybe it's OK to ignore it... maybe it's not? Find out =) For example: CV boots and oil pressure sending units really should be replaced soon rather than ignoring them. Smoke is never a good thing; even on leaky Subarus =P The smell of smoke is a great indicator of not only a leak but also what exactly is leaking. If you start to ignore smoke (or even burnt fluid smell) because "it always does that" then you're doing yourself a disservice.... and let's face it... a disservice to the people behind you! =P If it's bad enough to actually cause physically visible smoke then you really should find out exactly what's going on. While I, and others, have said that it's normal for Subarus to sweat some oil... it's not normal to produce smoke from this. It usually means you get a few drips on the driveway and a gooey mess on the underside of the engine... not smoke.
  7. Figure out where it's leaking from. Then you can figure out how hard it's going to be to fix. It's a Subaru.... I'd be more worried if it didn't sweat some oil =)
  8. I use the INNOVA 3030 scanner. It's $46.00 at Wal-mart. Used it for several years now with out issues.
  9. Use a mechanic's stethiscope to pinpont the problem. They almost always help in finding the real source of a noise. It may not be what you think it is.
  10. The muffler on that car doesn't get that hot even sitting there ideling. If the muffler got that hot then the cat would have been WAY hotter (since it's closer to the heat source) I really don't think that carpet back there is going to combust from a muffler that's not only behind a heatshield but also behind other layers of metal and dapening material under the carpet. Before a muffler got hot enough to cause that to happen other parts of the exhaust would have been even hotter and done the same thing elsewhere in the car. I just don't buy the story... unless we are missing some key details? Was there an exhuast leak right there? Was someone under there welding to fix something? Either there's more to the story or the story is bogus because this doesn't add up.
  11. Another vote for the cheap ODBII scanner. I use mine all the time and love it. To me I don't like having to carry around yet another laptop. Can't leave it in the car lest it get stolen. Dunno about you but I already have my work laptop with me 90% of the time. My little ODBII scanner fits in the center console under my electric shaver and garage door opener =P Out of sight so not worried about it getting stolen (besides It's no where near the cost of a laptop anyway) Time is money... don't sell yourself short! Unless you really have nothing better to do or it's part of the auto hobby experience to hook up your laptop, program the software, scan the ECU, log the data, and tinker. Don't get me wrong; I have a friend who jacks his laptop to his EVO, custom tuned everything, and it's all part of his motorsport hobby... have at it... but if it's really about a matter of money then analyze that. Price out the dongle you want from a reputable seller. Price out a cheap ODBII scanner from a reputable seller. How much are you really saving? Maybe it's enough to matter (you stated $50?)? Maybe it's a matter of $10-$20 difference?
  12. Here are the different error codes for knock sensor I'm not sure what "high imput" means P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0327 Knock sensor circuit low input P0328 Knock sensor circuit high input P1325 Knock Sensor Circuit Low Input
  13. Anyone happen to know the McMaster part number for a Tee that will go into 4860K141 ? I want to have an oil pressure guage sending unit in one side of the Tee and the idiot light sending unit in the other side.
  14. Just did timing belt, all pulleys, tensioner, water pump, and cam seals. Used the Import Experts 'Master Timing Belt Kit' off eBay as some suggested. I know several other people on here run these so I'm asking... are yours noisy? It's a subtle ... 'whirring' or 'whine'; low pitch (not a squeak or squeal) It's not rhythmic but constant and in perfect time with the engine RPMs. Haven't narrowed it down yet to anything specific. I've put on almost 70 miles now since I put this all on and everything seems OK... maybe I'm just paranoid? =/ (ps. just had a thought while writing this... maybe something rubbing on the timing belt covers?! like the crank pulley, tensioner pulley for AC belt or something? I noticed some marks on the t-belt covers they were rubbing on them at some point. I'll check that out tomorrow...)
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