Old Pearl

A switch sounds like a logical fix. If you replace the switch you will not have a new key (it will still use the old key) Only if you replace the tumbler will you have a new key. I have replaced a few ignition switches in the past and it is not very difficult. You need to remove all the plastic around the steering wheel and then you will see the switch and how it is attached to the back of the tumbler. You will also see a plug where the switch is attached to. Here are a few other tests I would try...... I would bet that option 3 is most likely the issue due to it being intermittent. 1) Get out your Volt or Multimeter. Find the starter and test the main power straight from the battery (the big cable) using the bell housing as a ground. If that is fine then find the solenoid power wire (it will be small and most likely have a push on connecter) Test for power with the key turned to the start position.....if you have a helper this will be easy, if not then you will need to wedge or attach the positive lead of the connector to the solenoid power wire and find a suitable negative area to wedge the negative lead (neg of battery) then put the volt meter at the base of the wind shield and turn the key while watching the meter. You can pull the wire from the starter so that you don’t have it turn over and cut off a hand or something. If you have power then the starter is bad. If not then it is either the switch or the wire to the starter solenoid. 2)Next you can find the switch. Using a wire diagram you can locate the starter solenoid wire, positive hot wire, neg wire, ect. Check to see if the Hot indeed has power (I am going to assume it does because the instrument lights ect work) Then put the negative lead to the ground and the positive lead to the start and then turning the key to start you can test to see if the switch provides power when the switch is turned into the start position. In the past I have replaced switches only to determine that the wire to the starter solenoid was faulty or the NSS was worn out. 3) Depending on whether the car is an auto or stick it will have a NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) at the clutch pedal if a stick or the auto shifter if auto. The switch will only allow power to the starter if the clutch is depress or the trans is in Park or Neutral. If this switch is faulty then the car will think it is in gear if an automatic or the clutch is not depressed if it is a stick and will NOT supply power to the starter. A quick test would be to take a jumper wire and complete the circuit at the switch and try to start the car. This is most likely the problem.

You mentioned that it was an oil leak and not a water leak. Do you think that it may just be a valve cover gasket leak? Anyway with the engine already out a head gasket replacement as well as timing belt, water pump, pullys, tensioner is a breeze and should be done as preventive maintenance.

Is there a difference between the California and Federal emission timing belts? Also is a timing belt job the same for a 1995 2.2 as a 1991 2.2 legacy (same tools, parts, ect...)

So, any of yous guys going to the Hillsboro rally cross event this weekend?

How do you remove the smell of cigarettes from the interior. I gave it a good washing, shampoo, the works. I still have that horibble smell...please help!

Thanks GD. If you don't mind, why will flushing help this problem? How does the AWD work?

I personally feel that castrol GTX is the best as far as regular dino juice. If I am not mistaken in the US we don't really have "real" synthetic oil...it is only 35% synthetic or something. Dino and Syn do not mix so that is why I am skeptical of our USA syn because it says you can mix with dino. Just my .02

Any special trans fluid?? Will supertech from wally world lbe ok? Can I leave the rear diff alone?

I have a auto with 169k on the odo. The has been sitting before I acquired it. It has torque bind intermittently.....both times I drove in the rain and a few more random times. I car has matching 4 stud less m+s tires. What would cause the randomness? I would think that if I had a issue it would be all the time.

1991 Legacy with the 2.2 I think I may have screwed up the idle setting. I adjusted the big screw in top of the throttle body in an attempt to adjust idle. I now realize that it is all controlled by the ecu. I now have it completely to the right cw. How do I put it back to factory setting?

Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts. I have a 1991 legacy awd with a auto trans. It idles great but when I put it into gear the rpms drop which is to be expected but there is a vibration. Is it normal for these cars to vibrate when in gear? Sort of feels like a possible worn engine mount, I just don't want to try to repair something that is inherent to the vehicle.

I believe the cam followers on the legacy are of the hydraulic type for that year. I had a loyale with very noisy valves and it was due to pressure that is not sufficient to pump it up. The loyale had a oil pressure gauge so I could see that the pressure was low. I was told that it would not hurt the engine but the noise was so loud I would get a headache. Long story short I replaced the oil pump and the timing belt because I was already in there and the noise went away.

That is the story I was told by the PO. The area in front of the cat and behind the cat show no signs of heat damage. The only area showing heat damage is the cargo area carpet, the plastic cover over the spare tire, and part of the mud flap on the driver rear side. I will inspect the muffler for holes (that is a good point)

Acually the heat shielding is still there. I too have heard of cats getting red hot. It melted the carpet and the padding underneath had to be removed as it was charcoal and smelly.

Just use buffer to get those lights clear again. A cleaner wax will work fine or rubbing compound and then a cleaner wax after. It was very easy and only took me about 5 mins per light. Works well on the rear lights too!