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WJM

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About WJM

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    SUBARU
  • Birthday 04/05/1984
  1. WJM

    EJ25D block swap to EJ257 block

    I would use your stock injectors. I've never drilled the EGR, so I dont know what to tell you on that one. If you didnt have to deal with emissions inspections, I would remove the EGR system so you wouldnt have to deal with it.
  2. WJM

    EJ25D block swap to EJ257 block

    Get a METRIC feeler gauge. Dont get the one with SAE measurements on it. They are only $5 or so from any Snap On/Matco/Mac/Sears/whatever. 0.20mm intake clearance 0.25mm exhaust clearance Despite what the manuals will say, ZERO tolerance on the valve clearance. Make sure you get them to those values. The engine will run SOOOOOOOOO much better. Even if they are "close" and "in spec" according to the tolerance that the manuals have, it is EXTREMELY noticeable when you have them dead on vs "in spec" but not dead on the spec.
  3. WJM

    EJ25D block swap to EJ257 block

    The cam is going to get sticky/stop moving when the lobe starts to make the lifter climb up the lobe. As long as it moves freely when the lobes are not trying to lift a valve, its all good. Use only SUBARU 11044AA610 gaskets. Do not use any aftermarket gaskets. Every one that I've seen and seen used leak/blow internally just like the older SUBARU gaskets pre-11044AA610. For the EJ/EG/EA engines with the "composite" type headgasket, EXCLUDING the 1996MY EJ25D, it is 'ok' to use something aftermarket since subaru does not offer a MLM gasket as a replacement. I have seen those used with great success.
  4. WJM

    EJ25D block swap to EJ257 block

    if the cams spin very freely/like butter in the heads, re-use. If there is scoring, moderate to heavy, and they still spin freely, its a toss up. In most cases in they are toast, they will not spin freely and there will be heavy scoring. DO NOT RE-USE.
  5. WJM

    EJ25D block swap to EJ257 block

    You should probably replace the headgaskets since you are not going to be far from them. Along with the timing belt.
  6. The vibration here is strictly tire related. Engine load/neutral/off and coasting does not change the vibration. Very interesting otherwise.
  7. WJM

    Strange idea

    I read this wrong. I thought it read: XT front clip on an RX. AkA front of the car is an XT and from behind the fenders and back, its an RX. Woops.
  8. That only applied when you are past the max rated pressure.
  9. WHAT A PROJECT. I sure wish I could take that xt6 off yer hands for some PARTS completness for my XTDL.
  10. WJM

    Strange idea

    _*I*_ had that idea back in 2004. No one liked it. I LIKE IT. I'll do it eventually. CNAT BET O HARSD. excuse me with the bailey snad crow on the cold rockz.
  11. Why not? I have much better traction out of my Michelins on my F-150 at 50psi than I do at the "recommended" 20psi for sand use. Every single tire I've ever used has better performance, all across the board, when running near or at its maximum rated pressure.
  12. Like I said, they dont "suck" in the normal sense that tires would suck. They just have a vibration issue at below 40psi. Conti was the lowest bidder for the specified tires SUBARU was looking for. Plain and simple.
  13. What upsets me the most is that the tires that come on them are actually GOOD tires and I have no complaints other than the fact that SOA bid too low and thats what they got: the lowest bidder supply of tires. A fine tire it is, it just vibrates at anything less than ~40psi in it. When they scrapped the 12 or so tires we replaced under warranty, I got them and I mounted/balanced and run 44psi in them. Smooth as butter on 96 Legacy Outback (barely fits) and 05 Baja Turbo.
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