DaveT

Interesting. Thank you. I have some stuff to read and watch....

What does closed deck vs open deck mean? I haven't seen this terminology used before.

Found it on the car I was thinking didn't have one - look to the right of the hood latch, from the front.

I went and looked - One has a sticker on the top of the driver's side strut tower. The other doesn't have one that I can find. I think I remember one having one on a tag under a bolt or screw. Like one of the fender bolts, or one of the screws on top of a strut tower that also holds another piece of small parts. If it has one, it's not in a hidden place, it's somewhere pretty easy to find, just looking around at the surfaces of sheet metal. Might be worth looking in the door jam / door edge areas, but I don't think they were there.

At least a few of mine had a tag unset the hood. Some parts stores have color analyzers remove the gas cap door, to bring in a sample.

It ea81. Distributor is on th e front, left of center. I didn't realize the power steering pump was the same. Also, no timing belts or covers I can see in the pics.

might be worth checking the CTS. It can fail and not trigger the CEL.

As far as I can remember, for the fronts - They are the 2 screw all stainless type. I got one set with my 86, which I bought in 88. And the second set were on my 90, bought in 92. After that, they all had the 2 screw spring arm part, but the previous owners / mechanics had swapped on the crap throw away type instead of using refills. These are the 4WD GL / Loyales I have had - blue 86, red 87, blue 88, brown 88, white 90, white 92, silver 93. I have many mechanical & electrical parts from all of them, keeping the 87 and the 93 running. The 86 got massively damaged in an accident, and totaled. Frame bent to the point of the roof and driver's door were even messed up. I eventually got it running to use around the yard for a while, before it became a parts source. The others died due to rusting away.

I have wanted to find the oem rear ones for years. None of my cars are bought new, so I never got one that still had original rears. The first couple I bought were new enough to still have the oem front ones though. The replacement ones that came on the several other wagons I owned never worked as well as the oem ones.

Woa, I missed the exhaust glowing bit somehow! Yikes. If it wasn't blocked, it might be now.

Oem were flat at the end. 2 small screws held the wiper blade holders on. All stainless. Originally painted black. Sand blasted to mostly stainless just by driving for 30 years. I might be the only person with oem wiper blade holders and arms, but both my wagons have them.

I doubt it would be a drop in. Different engine and transmission in those. Ea82 in the Loyale. Likely an EJ in the legacy. EJ are bigger. Have the local guys weld and brace the old one if it's got problems, and you can't find a new improved version.

Check the bushings on the various suspension links? Double check everything is tight? The axle nut is about 150 Ft Lbs. Cone washer and spring washer in place? Auto or stick? Check the gear lube level in the front diff. It is separate if it's an auto. Aftermarket front axles are notoriously poor quality. Bad CVJ usually make a clicking that corresponds to speed rhythmically, volume varies with steering angle. They can also make weird steering wheel wiggling. Things to know - Inspect and keep the cooling system in top condition. Radiator and the 7 hoses. Do not rely on the temperature gauge or idiot light to catch a problem, unless you want to replace head gaskets [or worse] along with fixing original the problem. Keep on top of this, and another 100K is not much of a big deal to get. At about 150K miles- one of the brushes in the alternator [if it is original] will wear out, and the dash light won't light enough to warn you. Also by 150K miles, the oil leaks usually are bad enough to want to do a reseal from the head gaskets up. Timing belts and all 3 idlers every 50K miles for max reliability. If one snaps, it doesn't destroy the engine, but it leaves you dead until you replace and re time.

The running poorly makes me think CTS. These can fail in ways that cause all sorts of driveability issues, no CEL / codes. Especially if you notice a correlation with engine temperature. I had one get intermittent - it was as if the choke was closed sometimes, or open others. Choked when hot, runs bad. Open when cold makes for very hard to start. The CTS can be tested with an ohm meter, and a pan of water, or hot air gun and a thermometer that can read to 200 degrees F. The shutting off - could be the IAC. It ran fine, as long as I didn't take my foot all the way off the gas. Turned out to be the wire to it was broken inside the insulation. I had to unwrap the engine harness to find it. The wiring to either of these also can cause these problems. I had one with a fuel pressure regulator get really erratic on me. Absolutely no power trying to travel, even at 30MPH. Would die. Staring was iffy. But it would also kick in for a while and be ok. Those are some things to look at...

The biggest thing - MANY parts are NLA. It would be far better to use an EJ22 with an adapter plate to the transmission. Either way you are in for a load of work, but with an EJ, parts are available, and the EJ22 is one of the best & most reliable engines.

I bought one for $150 in 2003. Rusty 4wd wagon, figured I use it for a few years. Ran it for 11.

The spade connector (small wire) on the back of the starter is the one that energizes the solenoid. It is fed 12V only when the key is in the starting position. There is a fusible link in the circuit between the battery and the ignition switch, no fuse in the fuse box. I have seen links to wiring diagrams, but don't know them. Any year from 86 through 94 SPFI should be very similar, especially for this part of the wiring. Simplease test - get a length of 12awg wire. Connect one end to the spade terminal on the back of the starter. Momentarily touch the other to the positive battery terminal. If it cranks, the starter is good, and the relay mod will likely fix it. If it clicks no crank, the contact in the solenoid is eroded down, and can be replaced.

I never had a part number....... They were common on Toyota cars from the same general model years. I got a handful of Toyota and Honda ones at a local scrap yard for 10 or 20 $. I have a web page write up of how to use them - I just have to find a new hosting service, as the one I had it on went away. I'd go to a local yard, where they let you pic & pull. Look under the hood of a few of the older non super fancy models. Look for similar sized vacuum lines. The solenoids I found are narrower and longer than the Subaru ones. You have to replace the connectors with the ones from the dead OEM one. Do a little testing to verify which port routs to which, powered and not. [the specific info for the ones I found is in my web page] . I'll see what I can do about getting my pages back online.

Try flipping the timing belt over. It might track differently. The only way I know of to find another pulley is to find one on an engine. I am not sure if welding is the best way to go , as the solid part of the pulley doesn't seem like a solid cut piece of steel. Possibly brazing would work.

This is how to get parts for these cars. And have space to keep the parts.

Try searching for ignitor? I am not sure if they are available. But, yes, you need one. The distributor signals go to the ECU, and it adjusts and sends them to the ignitor transistor.

Yes. There is a main passage in the intake. Coolant from the heads goes through it to the thermostat. Drain about a gallon out of the radiator gets most of it. Run it up to normal operating temperature, shut it down, slowly and carefully loosen the 6 intake to head bolts. Work them out and in gradually if they are really stuck. If you really pay attention and practice, you can tell the difference between the springyness of a bolt vs the yield when it snaps off. Unless you put it toget her with anti seize before.

Short test drive today, no clicking etc. on sharp turns. We'll see over some time and miles how they hold up. The Axle I removed - is the smaller version, OEM. The balls measure to be right on 21/32" , oddly, not a round metric number. And no easily visible marks / wear. But the inner start and out cup have smooth wear grooves in them. This one looks like I had re greased and rebooted previously, the boots are in good shape, not even beginning to crack. No obvious contamination in the joint or boot.

I have sold shells to scrap yards before. Just need the title. Won't get a lot of $ right now, especially if they pick it up. I did cut a couple up into pieces years ago.

That sucks, glad you are ok.