DaveT

IF you got enough pressure and flow, you could push seals out. A broken dipstick isn't going to have much to catch the wind, unless you have the round part at the handle jammed down the tube. If it's just the metal strip, I'm thinking the air would just slip by it.

Everything I have read on this forum, over many years, points to forget about the Hitachi.

Oh, yeah, on that sort of road, not such a great idea. I had back road options.

A walk by / run by keying, the only thing I can think of is a couple of security camers mounted so they have a good view of the car. And maybe you could get a good enough pic to help the police athch they guy. Some idiot walking by just to do that, could do it, the alarm goes of, and runs away before anyone could get there to catch him red handed.

My first car I put in an alarm. Was back before boom cars were a thing, but I had a high end stereo system. I set up the arm disarm switch so that locking and unlocking the driver's door controlled it. Only the key controlled it, the buttons did not. It had some kind of tilt switch. Never had a problem with it.

I pushed one further than that once, a few decades ago. Just need 2 experienced drivers. Depends on how picky law enforcement is about such things I guess also.

It looks older than Loyale. The wheels and little center covers look like what my 76 and 78 wagons had. Just called GL or DL depending on the options.

Mine are 4WD. My 87 was originally FWD, but I added the parts to make it 4WD from one of my retired due to rust cars. Yeah, if they had more power, I'd be more likely to get in trouble using it.

If I had one, I'd trade, but I skipped over that generation.

Mine are not turbo. Turbo were MPFI also, iirc. Mine are SPFI. Been running and maintaining EA82 wagons since 1988. I've had several, since salt on roads in winter kills the bodies. Now that I have my house and shop built, I have more time to stay ahead of rust, etc.

I would probably have bought it. Throw it in a car the next time I needed to swap. See what happens. Even if it runs long enough to reseal the original engine. But I have 2 EA82 powered cars, so if one has a bigger problem, well, it's not a huge problem.

If you plan on keeping EA82s running, start scrounging parts everywhere you find any. Getting rarer every week. Be ready to replace timing belts and 3 idlers [or their bearings] every 50K miles. I have 2 wagons with SPFI EA82s, and shelves of spare parts, so I'm set for a while. Having 2 helps a lot, since almost nothing is a walk into a store and buy it off the shelf item, at least around here. When one needs repair, I have the other to drive. If your EA82 is carbed, it's not a big wiring nightmare, if it's SPFI, it is just as big a job as an EJ. Or you could put a weber carb on it. The EA82 carb is a nightmare if it's not working, from what I see in threads on here.

I'm curious as to why that particular swap. EA81 simpler and more reliable than EA82. Iirc, you could put the SPFI from an 82 onto an 81. That would get you the slightly more power. Both EA engines have many NLA parts. Similarge amount of time and money spent you could put in an EJ that you can also still get parts for.

The ECU only knows if the solenoid is open circuit for code 34.

When a code is currently upsetting the ECU, you don't have to mess with the connectors. Just read the code/s. If the idle is all over the place, the CTS may be failing. It won't cause the CEL to light until it is really bad, but the car will run crummy long before that. The CTS is a 2 wire sensor on the intake manifold near the thermostat. Plan on getting familiar with doing your own repairs, and keep an eye out for parts cars, spare parts, etc. As more go NLA every day.

let us know. You have to start somewhere. Although this project might be a big place to start...

Anything simple and low cost gives you small amounts. Anything complicated and expensive is going to consume time and NLA parts. EJ swap is a big project and is 40% HP increase with no engine reliability penalty, and parts are available. How you use that power may be stressful to the rest of the driveline...

Voltage getting to the coil? Voltages on both ends of fuses? I ask because I have found broken fuses that you cannot see the hair thin crack in the element.

What do these solenoids look like? Any one from any car with similar sized and number of ports would probably work.

Take off the manifold. Clean the faces. Set it in place, try a feeler gauge to see if you can pick up on how flat the faces are lining up to each other. You might need to use a set of gaskets while doing this, depending on clearances, etc. Maybe lightly installing a couple of the bolts

They are not supposed to be into the coolant. Even if one [of the 2 near the coolant port] was drilled too deep, it would intersect a head bolt. The outermost one - on each end, those might eventually hit a coolant passage if you were to drill deep enough, but they do not connect in a stock head. The head bolts are not really sealed off from the crank case, but the head bolt and washer make it not really open either. In a stock head, if there is coolant in the space around an intake bolt, it is coming from a failing intake gasket, or crack or warp in the manifold.

Just fix whats wrong. Unless you are saying something like excessive blow by is fouling the egr. At this point, finding a good engine that just needs a reaeal is the easiest way to go. EJ swap has all those advantages, but it is a lot more work than a drop in.

I more of a keep it stock type. Except for when someone is wanting a lot more power, then the tables turn. These cars are getting rare, and many NLA parts, it doesn't make sense to do all kinds of experimental mods that may lead to breaking things that are hard to find...

oil weight wouldn't cause that, but 20W-50 is too thick. 10W-40 unless you are in the arctic, or a desert.

Verify timing belts are intact. Check the CTS. It can fail in ways that don't throw a code, but still make the engine run all kinds of bad. The coolant temperature sensor is the 2 wire bolt in near the thermostat, on the intake manifold. The single wire one is for the dash gauge. There should be a ground wire from the transmission to the body, the engine to the body. (near the alternator - one end is ona tab on the coolant pipe from the water pump) They are there to ensure complete circuits for many of the sensors and solenoids.