DaveT

Oh, yeah, 1984 through 1994 should be the same parts for suspension and most things. There are small differences here and there on mostly the accessories. There were some odd changes in wiring harness and connectors in the 86 /87 area of time.

Yep, start collecting parts. JY, buy a parts car, etc.

The stock headlights should not be that bad. Not as good as for real projector type, but way better than the old sealed beams. If the reflectors are rusty, no bulb you put in them will fix it. I have seen some get rusty, if moisture got into them.

If you don't connect the green connectors, the ECU is adjusting the timing, therefor you don't know what the true mechanical setting is.

I use different spacers under the big nut to pull them in. Stack of big washers, and or the spacer from the front wheel bearing knuckle work.

Do keep in mind, anything EA82 and older is getting to be hard to find parts for. More and more go NLA both OEM and aftermarket.

I don't know that model specially, but I doubt those lights are on their own separate fuse. Did they used to work? Stop after the recent repair?

Check the dimmer setting?

What begin model does it have? Look for lettering on the block. Ea71 Ea81 Ea82 Or similar.

I have never sold an intact EA82 car. Since my first one in 1988. The rusted out bodies end up going to the scrap metal yards. Parts of the previous 5 live on in the current 2.

I have only done headgaskets on a handful of ea82s. Never seen a ridge. Always still have factory cross hatch Hone marks. Hoe deep are those marks? Not very, so probably hard to measure wear.

I would be looking for something hanging up the throttle. Weak spring, sticky cable, binding throttle shaft. Stuff like that. Maybe the choke & high idle mechanism. Vacuum leaks and egr can cause problems, but I have never had or read of one causing idle to go to 5000rpm or even close. Those usually cause crummy idle, poor performance.

I saw this when I didn't have time to write a reply, then it got pushed down far enough to loose track of... Anyway, The power thing, I had a flaky one, never got to troubleshooting it, the car got too rusted to bother. I ended up getting my 93 before I spent the time on the belt system. I have a set of the regular shoulder belts I intend to swap into my 93 that currently has the automatic belt, when they start to act up. I HATE those power belts. The lap belt, should pull out at normal speeds. If you pull it very quickly, it should lock. It's just a mechanical thing, RPM throws weights out [kind of like a governor] and engage a catch.

Oh, nuts I just remembered I need to do this. I just shut down the pcs...

The fan thermo switch is on the radiator. The sensor for the dash temp gauge is a single wire sensor with a hex head, screwed into the intake manifold near the engine thermostat.

probably have to take the timing covers off to try to see what is leaking oil. If you intend to keep one of these running, you need to start collecting parts. And a factory service manual. And do the repairs and maintenance. And have another vehicle to use while it is down. Which is part of why I have and maintain 2.

A short would make it read very high.

Take a short piece of 2x6. Drill a hole for the axel it fit through. Clamp the axle in a vise, with the outer joint down, and the block sitting on the back of the outer cvj. One moderate hit with a heavy hammer should pop it right off. Put something to catch it underneath the end so it doesn't land on concrete.

About 20 minutes into a 90 minute trip today, cruising on the highway at 65 MPH / 4000RPM. I glance at the gauges occasionally, and see the oil pressure near zero.... Like where it sits at idle. Initially alarmed, but wait - it's not clicking, running fine.. This continues to not change. Gauge must be lying. Later, I'm off the highway, 45 or so, and now the oil pressure reads normal. The trip home, worked normally. Guess I have a bad connection or flaky gauge or sender.

On my wagon, that I converted to 4WD, it was chewing up the outside edge of rear tires. I made a simple alignment checking setup, [pictures in my thread on it] and found they were toed out over spec. I loosened those 3 bolts, and a ratchet strap to pull the hub forward, re tightened the 3 bolts. Much better now.

It needs to be checked to be sure it is free flowing. And the condition of the fine fins and tubes. Also, if the hoses were original, make sure you find all of the cooling system hoses, and replace all of them. New radiator hoses don't stop a bypass hose that's 30 years old from failing. An EA82 engine has 7 cooling system hoses. The older ones had 1 or 2 fewer.

Iirc, all of that stuff is on the side where the throttle cable connects to it. Passenger side.

Check the choke thermo spring, shaft, high idle cam. Maybe sticky or broken?

I had the lower ball joint do that noise.

I never had an 84 - but none I had older or newer had a roll over switch. They do have control that shuts off the fuel pump if the engine stops running. You can bypass it to test, but I would not leave it bypassed.