DaveT

IT's not highly complicated. You need a BIG socket [ 36mm ] for the axle nut, and a long breaker bar to turn it. Soft blow hammer and / or a big gear puller to push the axle out.

I never head a CVJ grind. They usually get clicky. Gradually get louder and more than just in a sharp turn. Then they start to grab and jerk the steering. Grindy sounds, more likely wheel bearings.

What el freddo wrote. Don't bother with anything that claims it will fix it with a bottle of additive, it won't. Headgaskets. Don't drive it any more, as you risk more fatal damage every time the gauge goes above normal while low on coolant. It does not need to get to red to cause trouble. These cars have some peculiarities with cooling systems, there are loads of threads about headgaskets on here. White smoke only happens in some of the possible failure modes, and only when they are very well blown. Mixed coolant in the oil I have had only one time with a very bad overheat, and no smoke of any kind.

The piston screws in. Pressing won't move it until you bend the parking brake screw, ruining it. Bleeder screws do not seal when loose, so you will always have air visible if applying suction to the bleeder. The best / surest way to bleed is 2 people, one to pump brakes, the other open the bleeder, and close after each hold down of the pedal. Some systems the sudden flow helps drag the air out.

The valves should slide freely. I have never had or heard of a lubrication problem due to the seals.

Yeah, with the engine in back, and gravel, you probably need the covers. The cams get pretty tight feeling just pressing the valves open, I would not turn one by the 10mm hex head bolts, too close to the yield stenth of them. I made a too for turning the cams. Piece of bar stock with 2 bolts tapped and screwed through so that the ends stick into 2 of those 4 holes in the outer edge of the cam pulley. Similar thing to apply torque with a torque wrench, but with a hole in the center for the drive.

I have been running without the too covers for years now, not sure if it's my imagination, but they seem to last longer. Also, I did catch a failing bearing noise from an idler a whole lot earlier a while back.

I have only used oem or napa belts. The 3 idler bearings are a disaster waiting to happen after 50k miles, so change the accordingly. Belt tension is about 15 ft lbs torque on the cam pulley, when in the position with that pulley's mark aligned with the mark on th back cover.

The LED on the ECU should be blinking aregardless of test mode connectors. When all is well, it blinks a number of short blinks every few seconds. If it is not, check that the ECU is getting power.

Is the choke working?

Either one could be. Also, I have had tires partially fail due to bad alignment, where some of the tread separates from the steel belts. Makes a bubble in the tread, you can see if you jack the wheel you so you can turn the tire, and watch all the way around.

IT is a standard 62xx bearing. I've replaced a few of them. The ones with contact seals last a lot longer, but you have to go to a bearing supply shop, or search ebay / amazon for specifically that type of seal. Forget shielded. un specific seals are ok, but won't be as good / last as long.

Or spray a couple second shot of carb cleaner in the throat. If it runs for a second or 2, you know it has spark and timing.

Wouldn't hurt to check the engine ground wires. Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds? Try diagnostic mode with the green connectors plugged together, it should cycle on and off with the key in the run position. Check the 2 multi pin engine harness connectors?

Check the choke and float levels. Having to hold it floored is a sign it might have flooded.

If the sticker is all broken up, solvent should be able to get at the adhesive a lot better.

Hmmmm.... heat might help, just have to be careful not to go high enough to damage the paint. One of those scraper things that uses a single edge razor blade might help with lifting it, but again, great care not to dig into the paint. Ypu might get the plastic sticker off, leaving the glue / adhesive. At least then, a solvent could get at it. It would take experimenting to find some thing that melts the adhesive without attacking the paint.

If the compressor runs / turns while the clutch is engaged, the clutch is working. The clutch is enabled as needed, varying by the demand on the A/C system.

Yes, XTs are rare. Even the "regular cars" of that time frame, which were related - the EA82 powered cars - a lot of parts are going No Longer Available. Both OEM and aftermarket. I don't know enough about XTs to be certain of which parts are interchangeable with the EA82 models I know well, although many are.

Oh, my... Maybe try hooking up a regular compressor, just to air it up, and see if it works at all. The struts / shocks etc are rare as can be, from what I've read. Most people seem to end up installing conventional ones. Even those might be getting hard to find.

The compressor is inside one of the fenders.

I have used helicoils on mine, with good results. Yes, make sure the drill and tap are perpendicular to the face.

Cleaning the steel with these kind of etching techniques will leave the surface very pure, and quick to oxidize. Great for something to paint. Not so much for chain, which normal use and handling will quickly destroy paint. Coating it with an oil that doesn't evaporate would keep it from rusting for a while, but attract dirt, so a trade off there.

I never tried it on steel. But I have used white vinegar with salt to clean copper. Makes it look new. Just let it soak, then rinse.

I'd probably go up 1 screw size. Get a proper tap to cut new threads. They do make helicoils for those tiny screws, just don't think I'd trust them in that application.