DaveT

My 93 loyale came with that stripped down version instrument cluster. Oil light, not gauge. No volts? I have fsm from 86 and 90, compared everything. Swapped a few bits around, changed out the switch for the sender, and I now have a full GL instrument cluster in my 93. The oil switch vs sensor used the same wire, same location. The volt meter just taps existing wiring.

When these were new, 3 speed auto was the common transmission. 4 speed autos were pretty unusual. I don't know turbo XTs well enough to be sure, but my 88 -93 4WD wagons turn 4000 RPM at 65 mph on the highway. All day, not a problem. Ea82 non turbo, 3 speed automatic. The EA82 engines were made to spin fast, not lug.

Yes. But it has been many years since I had one that needs adjusting.

Iirc, that is when hot. Assuming solid lifters. The hydraulic ones, they state do not adjust.

The gauge or instrument cluster is a small thing compared to replacing the entire dashboard, which is what the OP was about. It's a little fiddly, but not that big of a deal. If the temperature of the engine goes over normal while low on coolant, it is a pretty high risk of causing head gasket failure. It is also too late if you use this to check the coolant level. But it can save you having to do crank bearings and rings and worse.

nothing in this sub forum area would have an OBD2 code like P1911.... Nothing I know of anyway.

Remove the y pipe and middle exhaust pipe se tion. The differential end of the prop shaft, there are 3 bolts in a flange. Remove those. Put something to catch it. 2 bolts remove the center bearing. Once the center is free, you can move it a little to get the rear flange apart, then the shaft will move rearward, and slide out of the transmission. On ea82 cars, my drive on "lift" made out of 4x8x16 concrete blocks and 2x12 planks gets the car 8 inches above the ground while on its wheels. 6 to 8 blocks make a pad for each wheel, and the planks span between them, and make ramps ro get uo on it. Use smaller block ro support the planks even with the block piles. Now you need to support the front of the engine, as it will want to tip down and forward, once the transmission is removed. It will also bind if you don't. A transmission jack, or a couple of the scissor jacks and a dolly, or even a piece of 1x12 and 4 or so pieces of 1" emt for rollers to support, move rearward out of the engine, then lower the transmission. It's a bit wobbly, to just use the jacks. so using something to make good supports / stabilizers between the jacks and the transmission is a good idea. Be sure to not be under it in case something slips. The transmisions are around a couple hundred pounds. I can lift 1 end when out in the open, but not much of anything when they are under the car.

Those temps are higher than I normally see. Things that have fixed / or made lifter tick rare for me, in CT, USA- Reseal the oil pump, including the shaft seal. Reseal the engine, from the head gaskets up. Running Amsoil original 100% synthetic 10W40. Sometimes, not immediately, sometimes after the gunk from the previous owner gets cleaned out by the oil. NOTE - I am running EA82s, which are different, but known for lifter tick, so YMMV

It drains back to the oil pan. That's a few inches lower than the bottom of the rockers / head channel. Some can be pooled there, but not a lot if on level ground.

A lift won't help get at the lifters. Pretty sure you have to remove the heads to really get near them. Might be able to get them just by removing the rocker shaft, but it's a long reach....

If your engine has a carb, it will definitely do that. SPFI also has high idle when cold, but the ECU controls it. High idle is normal to get the engine warm enough to stay running at lower RPM regular idle.

Also check the voltage with the engine running above idle. I've had the regulator fail full on. This could shorten bulb life, among other things.

Since I built my exhaust with the cat in a different place, I have had fewer problems with the boots, so it might help to add something. But there never was anything other than the shield on the cat itself.

When I went through looking through a couple I have, to investigate 3D printing new ones, I found there were 2 different kinds. They must have had rims with different thicknesses at some point.

Egr light was what this reminded me of, on my 86 4WD wagon. Wasn't sure if Brats were the same.

The coolant temperature sensor can cause trouble with cold starts. And running. If it doesn't report the engine temp. correctly, the ecu won't deliver the proper amount of fuel. Worth testing that. 2 wire sensor on the housing the thermostat is in.

Intake gaskets on an ea82 are not paper, even if aftermarket. They are around 1/8" thick. Every time I have used aftermarket intake gaskets, they failed much sooner than expected. And of course, caused low coolant over normal temperature operation, so I then had to replace headgaskets. I've seen the gasket sealant dissolved away from the intake ports. I had put it on. Later, when dissasembled, it was gone. Intakes ports carry fuel. It dissolves anything non fuel resistant away over time. Short term, lots of things seem to work, or will work. I am talking long term.

Make sure the faces are flat and clean. Use the OEM gaskets. I used no goop of any kind. They are slippery, so I doubt anything would stick. I might consider Hylomar Blue if I were to use anything. Anything you use must be rated to resist fuel. Fuel dissolves most gasket goops. Many state not to use for fuel applications, and [before I knew better] I have seen them disappear from similar situations.

some of this sounds like a U joint failing in the drive shaft. When in 4WD, the tiniest difference in tires sizes & path will cause a load that will silence some noises. Until the wear gets worse. If they are original, they are old enough to be bad by now. With the car on it's wheels, get underneath. Look for any rotational movement of 1 shaft to the other across the U joints. Also, dark red / orange dust near the legs of the cross on the yokes.

I liked the oem radios, as they were very good at am. But they started failing about 10 years ago. I put in Nakmichi units, and new speakers, using the existing wires. Now I also have Bluetooth and hands-free cell phone.

It's odd. I see so many seem to have trouble with the 3AT. I'm heavy on gas. Use the shifter to control upshifts. Got over 200k miles on a few of them before needing anything more than a vacuum modulator. I do run Amsoil synthetic ATF in them.

That's odd... any oem speakers are likely shot just due to age by now. Wires in the link to the doors can break and be intermittent.

I am not sure about EA81 heads.... But hose cracks on EA82s are common as dirt, and don't matter. There was a TSB for them. EA82 I think would bolt onto the trans - but the EA81 is more reliable and simpler.

Short ebow on water pump top. Thin one under intake from thermostat pocket to the block. Slightly bigger one from back of the throttle body to a tap on one of the heater feed tubes.

That explains that.... I killed a catalytic that way. Running a beater that had a cracked head for many months.