DaveT

When one of mine went bad at about 30yrs, I got a new Subaru one. At $3.00 per year, an OEM one is not a bad deal. The only time I go cheap on those kind of parts is if It were a beater I planned on running until it broke from rust, and had no use for the engine as a spare.

Even forgetting the o ring wouldn't make zero oil. Too much loss, yes. Not air. Not zero.

Yes, there are blocks bolted to the front bumper. The X made with the red straps is needed when carrying long heavy loads. And also for sheet goods, that will catch a lot of wind. They hook to the towing hooks and the tops of the vertical supports. With the X straps in place, you can grab the rack anywhere and shake the entire car with it. Without them, the rack could twist off. They also prevent wind that inevitably gets under the load from lifting the entire thing off the car. I don't trust the factory rack mounts to hold a lot, they are only small screws into sheet metal. The front section is pinned to the main part, so it can be easily removed when not in use. It is all aluminum, with stainless hardware, because I didn't want rust stains all over the car. Do use anti seize compound on them, or they will corrode and NOT be disasembleable in a few years. The 4 vertical load supports that go into the rain gutters have a piece of vinyl tubing cut to make a pad to prevent the metal cutting through the paint. The aluminum is 1" x 2" x 1/8" wall tubing. I used 1/8" sheet to make the vertical supports for the back section to rain gutters, 6" wide into the gutters. L brackets 1/8" thick tie the cross members to the OEM rack rails, using their nuts. I doubled them by using a set from a scrapped car, so there are 8 tie points to those OEM rails.

There was a modification kit available from Subaru to fix the oil burn on long hard right turns problem. I have it on both of me EA82 powered wagons. Problem gone.

I can add detail pictures if you let me know what parts or angles would help.

My Web page has a picture or 2 of the rack. I've hauled a few hundred pounds of sheet rock or vinyl siding or lumber on it. It is suppored by plate that slip into the rain gutters on the sides, and the 2 verticals down to the front bumper. The tie in to the existing roof rack is only for horizontal loads, not the weight of the loads. Iirc, my Web page is linked in my profile on this site.

Yes, FSM are the best. I consider them part of buying a car.

The description with the one cam pulley up one down, is the checking position, to verify you got the belt on correctly, not how to install or tension them. The 3 ||| marks is where you set the crank to install a belt, with the cam you are doing with it's mark up. Then turn the crank one full revolution, and repeat for the second timing belt. It is not normally necessary to touch the distributor when replacing the timing belts. Although, removing it for head gaskets makes sense. I usually mark where the rotor is pointing before I remove it, or check my 2nd EA82 car when re inserting it.

EGR. There is a solenoid mounted on the intake. It is controlled by the ECU. It disables the EGR until the engine is up to normal operating temperature, as determined by the ECU reading the CTS. The solenoid causes the EGR valve to stay closed when disabled, or open depending on the vacuum system. The EGR valve hangs off the back of the intake on the passenger side. Vacuum applied to it's hose barb pulls it open. IF the solenoid coil is open, the ECU will detect it, and blink a code on the LED on the ECU. I have never had an open solenoid coil cause any drive ability problem. OEM solenoids are notorious for failing open. I replace them with Toyota solenoids. If you follow the hose from the EGR valve to the solenoid, the other hose on the solenoid could be pulled off and blocked to stop air from sucking into the manifold. The car might be a little more inclined to experience knock, make more emissions, but otherwise run ok. That test would isolate if you had a leak in those few pieces.

Might be the pulse thing. I'd try to troubleshoot it. Many ac systems have over pressure switches on the high side, so check that.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Holey zombie thread... It would be a lot better to start a new thread, than post on the 3rd page of a 2 year old one... But anyway, The 84 may or may not. I know first hand that 86-93 are interchangeable.

keep an eye out on ebay for a factory service manual. It will likely take a while, but they are worth it if you find one.

Many parts for the Loyale / GL / EA82 engine powered cars are no longer available, from Subaru or aftermarket. Older ones are likely going the same way. What is left is new old stock, and people who have stored / scavenged / saved them knowing this was going to happen.

When I got my 86 back in 88, it came with A/C compressor noise. Someone had hack wired it so the compressor was always engaged whenever the heater controls were in any position except off. I replaced it, and never had the problem again, on any of the several similar cars I have had since. Point of mentioning this, is it seems rare that they fail. There are 2 versions. One where the compressor is next to the power steering pump, and the other, where it is near the battery. The compressors and mounting are different, so you have to get the right one.

If it is still working otherwise, Start looking for a compressor. Need to know the year & model of your car.

There should be a roll pin through the axel, holding it onto the stub. The axle stub has tapered roller bearings, held in by a special nut on the backside of the bearing housing. There are a couple of threads with details of the wrench, etc.

I've had the best luck with a flat faced punch or bar stock, at least 1/4" in diameter. Hold it perpendicular to the flat face, give it a couple of good raps with a mid size hammer, and it should get loose. It is a cone washer. Don't hammer on the end of the axle. When I put them back together, they get anti seize.

That could be dangerous. .... the entire gastank isn't going to withstand much pressure. Normal way to try to clear a plugged fuel line is back feeding the small outlet tube, with the tank filler open. The small fuel line can withstand many times the pressure the tank can.

When it is cold, like winter cold, those rpms are not unusual for at least the beginning. Yes, if the old one was open, you needed a new sensor anyway, so at least that wasn't a waste of $. Ditto, check the wiring / contacts / continuity. I would check the resistance of the cts from the ecu connector.

Ok, as far as seals and bearings, that's baby miles. Seals are getting old, but they won't be as bad as if they were in a desert like climate. The driveline bearings olin mine usually have made over 200k miles. The timing belt idlers and belts, those you change every 50k miles to reduce the chances for rude surprises. All 7 cooling system hoses should be replaced if they are over 10 years. Check the condition of the radiator fins. All of the fine fins should be there and attached to the tubes.

How many miles are on it? What kind of weather has it withstood?

Another way to adjust images. Get paint shop pro, demo version. Crop, re size, adjust color / contrast, pretty much anything, more stuff than you ever need.

All of my several EA82s show/ed "0" oil pressure on the stock gauges at idle. It's really something like 5psi, but the stock gauge isn't accurate enough ro register. Since there is only very light load at idle, it doesn't ruin anything.

Trying to run with the IAC valve disconnected, who knows. I never did that. I had one die, electrically open, and the car would shut off if I let it idle. THE CTS can cause all kinds of crazy drive ability problems, idle all over the place, shut down / stall, etc. It can be bad in a way that causes this, and NOT throw a code. Reason is that it is telling the ECU how cold / hot the engine is, and this information is used to adjust how much fuel is sent in. If the mixture is way off from what it needs to be as determined by the temp, the engine won't run well, if at all. If you have an ohmmeter, you can check it. Run the car until it's at normal temperature. Shut down. Disconnect the CTS - the 2 wire sensor on the thermostat housing. Measure the resistance. Note it. Really helpful if you have a thermometer also, so you know the temperature of the housing. Wait a while, until it cools a noticeable amount, repeat the readings. Do this a few times while it cools to ambient. #1 thing to watch for is the reading is STEADY vs jumping around. Also, it should drift in the same direction each reading. There are temperature & resistance range notes in the FSM. I bought an OEM CTS a few years ago, from a dealer. It was around $90.00. But the previous one lasted nearly 30 years. Not to bad, $3.00 per year.

On my 3AT transmissions, the switch is an alternate action button. Mechanically clicks on and stays down, clicks off stays up. Just 2 wires, open circuit or close circuit to get 4WD. I've had a couple break, found I could use a #2-56 screw to hold the 2 pieces back together. If they break again, I'll have to find a part, and make an adapter, and or 3d print something.