DaveT

To check the coolant in the radiator without opening the cap - squeeze the upper radiator hose sharply, and listen for the giggle pin and air gurgles. Once you do this a few times, you can begin to determine by the sounds the amount of air in the system. There should be very little to none. When you open the cap, it intruders a small amount of air, so it can make it difficult to determine if there is a problem developing when the leak or damage is very small.

Be sure to watch the coolant level like a hawk. Like before every drive. Water sound in the dash means very low on coolant. My experience has been that after such an event as you describe, low coolant + over normal temperature, is that the head gaskets are damaged. It is a matter of time and cycles until the leak gets big enough to be noticable if you only check weekly. And each low coolant overheat accelerates the failing. Doesn't hurt to be certain before resealing, but be watchful to avoid worse overheat damage.

Mine are working. But this just made me think of getting copies made, since I've worn out keys in the past. Not sure if anyplace local would still have blanks. Don't need OEM, just want them to work.

are key blanks available for the loyale models?

There is a small port for each of the far side vents - the ones near the roller wheel on either side. When those are set to the vent position, air flows if the car is moving. The other setting connects the vent to the HVAC system. The main one is where the blower intake meets the firewall. There is also a door there that closes the port and opens the blower intake to the cabin for the AC max setting.

It is difficult, as you have to pull the rocker covers and the towers first. Main idea is loosen the (any and all) bolts while it's hot. In reality, the head bolts and even the tower bolts, I'd wait to get it out first, the use the heater and heat gun. Near normal operating temp is what you want. And heat deep enough to get to the aluminum where the threads are. That's why long time with the electric heat vs torch. I have saved myself a lot of grief dissasembling these old ones with this trick.

Oem or Fel Pro head gaskets Oem only intake gaskets and the o rings for the oil channel to the cam towers. I have always re used the head bolts. If any were really rusty, swapped them for better ones from a spare engine. Heads must be resurfaced to remove the marks from the fire rings. Search for post apocalyptic resurfacing. New water pump and thermostat. Verify that your radiator is in top shape. Fins still attached to the tubes, etc. Other most important thing.... Idle it up to normal operating temperature. Shut down and go to work carefully loosening the intake manifold bolts and head bolts. This deep heating really lowers the chances of breaking them off or stripping the threads. Use a space heater and heat gun to reheat it or keep it hot until you get to the head bolts. Work them back and forth gradually if any are sticky. If you are careful, you can feel the difference between springy and yeilding.

http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html Solenoid upgrade

The function would not be correct. The solenoid disables the egr while the ECU reads that the engine is not up to normal operating temperature. The Subaru solenoids die. I have Toyota ones in mine, that are still working, since 1988. There are a few threads on the forum with the link to my Web page about the mod. Later I can add it here.

Trace out where the wire comes from. At least witch branch it is in. There are not any separate wires.

Good to know the EJs are not going anywhere. Why EA? in no particular order, and not complete... Now that I have passed the 25 year mark, I will not deal with another car newer than 25 years old, just to avoid emissions hassles. For whatever reason, I just always have those crop up when I am already crazy busy. SO done with that. I never had an older / original Legacy, but we did have an 01 Forester for my wife. I could out maneuver it with my EA wagons, and all the newer versions are even bigger. Ok, didn't have to do the timing belts as often, but the DIY cost was nearly 5 times higher. Both of us can tell where the EA is on the road & parking a lot better than with the newer rounded cars. I can get bigger things into the back of my EA wagon than any of the newer models I've checked. Not by a lot, but a few items, it mattered. Do not want AWD forcing me to always run 4 identically worn tires. Bigger tires are more $ also, so not interested. I've also added lighting to my wife's Foresters, and now Impreza. [We replaced her 09Forester with an 09 Impreza recently, as she could not get used to the bigger rounder shape. Horrible time parking, etc.] What a PITA! all the wiring is hidden, even under the hood. Even though I am an electronics engineer [or maybe because I am one...] I don't want MORE computers to maintain and deal with in my vehicles. One for the ECU is ok, but that's enough. I don't drive tons of miles a year. I know the EA and have acquired or made all the tools I need to do nearly everything with them. Don't need to start over. It's now also just one of my hobby things - see how long I can keep running them. Because I can.

Hmmmm. Maybe some other type of oil pump. PS too low of volume - the parts that move the oil are a LOT smaller. Peterson at $700 a pump, wow. I've thought about the EJ swap. If I had that power, I'd end up using it, and breaking other NLA parts. Plus it is a ton of work, not that that would stop me... How much longer will even EJ parts be around? I wouldn't want to do the upgrade for that reason, only to have them go NLA in a few years.

Thereis a lot to take apart. The FSM has pretty detailed information on this. I have removed several. Iirc, you need 10mm and 12mm sockets. And a Philips screwdriver. Assortment of pliers and flat drivers wouldn't hurt to have. You can un bolt the glass from the regulator mech. You might have to move the position up and down to get at all of the bolts.

I was just starting to think about that sort of thing. ... What is that Peterson pump?

Drill a hole in the center of a piece of 2x6. Piece maybe 12 inches long. After removing the doj, and the boot, slide block onto the shaft to the cvj. Clamp the axle in a vise, cvj end down. Put something a little padded to catch the cvj under it. One moderate hit with a medium sized hammer to the block should pop it right off. Hit close to the axle and straight as possible. Now the cage will turn enough to get the balls out.

I used some from a hardware store. Just went after whatever type looked the most long life / weather extreme. Try to get close on the width and thickness.

The picture shows an engine with the air cleaner for a naturally aspirated carburetor engine. Turbo were fuel injection. All of the gl 10s I saw were turbo. But I have not seen many.

Pretty sure they just touch. The clamps had foam on them iirc.

If you found evidence of the core leaking, that would do it. Yes, pulling the dash is "fun". I had to do one to clean out mice nest destruction.

The damage I see is between the crank case oil return and outside. I have used Fel pro perma tourque headgaskets a fee tines with no problems. Only use oem intake gaskets, and the reinforced o rings for the oil supply to the cam towers.

It would have to be crated, and fork lift compatible. Check into Fastenall. They will ship stuff like this store to store.

That description does make it sound like a very small leak in the core. The heat "on/off" - if you mean the temperature slider, it's just routing more or less air through or around the heater core, so if the fog was coming from the heater core, that is exactly what would happen.

That brake rotor does not look good. The shiny / wear area should go a lot further in to the center.

How rusty is the body / fenders?

For the few of us that are into these old ones, some might be usable. Often, for a "regular" car user, who has to pay someone to repair, it a fairly small problem "kills" a car. I've thought about power upgrades from time to time over the years. But that just moves a failure point to some other hard to get part.