DaveT

I think it was the xt model that had a button or 2 on the upper left bank of 6. Maybe the turbos had something there? Those are probably pretty hard to find. But if you did, they would probably be more of a pop into place kind of thing. I have thought about trying to convert the guts from the right side for use on the left, but never actually ran into the need to do it.

There are no guts behind them. Maybe take spares from other ones but lots of work moddling things. Assuming the upper left and right EA82 style buttons.

If it was only leaking, it only needed seals.

That is a pressure switch. I don't recall off the top.of.my head if it is a.low cutout or over pressure safety cutout. There are 2 variants of ac systems, need to know which it is, and what year. Is the engine an EA82? Is the compressor off by the battery, or right next to the power steering pump?

Freeze plugs by definition connect with the cooling system. On an EA82 they are under the rocker covers. I don't get as cold weather here in CT, but have noticed that synthetic oil helps with cold starts, as it does not get thick as fast. My Detroit Diesel-powered loader backhoe has a block heater and a battery warmer. Needs them, because the only thing that fires the fuel is the heat from compression. I run synthetic in that also, as cranking speed is what makes that heat.

14 v while running is normal, should be fine with charging. 10V at rest is low. There may be a partially failed diode in the alternator or other electric leak drawing the battery down. Sometimes batteries go bad early. Normal 5 years is max. I always put in the biggest one that will fit in the space available. But if it is cranking anywhere near normally, the battery is not why it won't fire.

if it is like the oil; light switch on my 76, it will light when you have near zero oil pressure.

As far as I know, NLA. More parts are going that way. I've been planning for this for quite a while now, for me EA82s. If there are no symptoms, leave it be. At most, it might need a new shaft seal and o rings. Unless, as mentioned previously, it was abused. Start keeping an eye out for parts cars, old stock, some one deciding to move to a different car who has a lot of spare parts. Get a milling machine, and start making one.

Sounds like it was flooded. OR you have an intermittent problem. I once had one die on me. Went and called home, to have my wife push me home with her car. She got there, I tried the starter one last time, and boom, it ran. If the battery was cranking it, it was good enough to start it.

If it has not run since the belts, #1 thing to check. Also, if these flood, they act dead. Hold the gas to the floor. Lots of cranking. Eventually, you get a sputter. then a few more. Then finally, it catches, running crappy at first then smooths out. Other thing that can cause cold no start - CTS. Coolant Temperature Sensor. The 2 wire one on the lower thermostat housing. Sparks should be able to get insanely long, like over 1/2 inch. An easy test - spray a 1 second shot of carb cleaner into the intake boot. If it fires a little, then it's lack of fuel or flooded.

Only use 4WD when wet, or on snow ice off road. Most of the time, when raining, I'll switch it on while stopped, get going, then switch off. Unless there are big puddles or water sheeting on the road.

Not entirely. 4wd puts a different load / shifts the loading on the driveline parts.

I am interpreting that the places that tested it think it's working. Normal in the car should be around 13.8 V or into the 14s on the battery terminals with the engine running at a bit over Idle. Over 15 is bad also. At idle, the output can drop too low to charge. If it tests good I would be looking at the wiring to the 2 wires on the small connector on the alternator - everything involved with them.

The black ones (old ones) are likely just regular old Buna n. They get hard and take a set after this many years and miles at temperature. The new ones are more likely viton, which survives a lot better. They don't get hard. By this many miles, and around 10 or so years, the same thing has happened to the oring between the head and the cam carrier. Also, the same oil channel passes through the headgaskets, and those both are likely leaking by now, if the engine has never been resealed. But that is a bigger project. I would wait on that.

The pumps last a very long time. Have not seen a bad one. The seals do not last forever. By 150K or more, and 20 years or more, they are due. The original o rings / Micky mouse ring get hard and leak. Shaft seals wear and get hard. It's been a while since I had one apart - I think there is an o ring between 2 pieces that make up the pump. I would rather re seal a still good OEM pump than use an aftermarket. It's one of those things - you already have it this far apart - if it hasn't been done, it's a lot less time to do now, rather than when the leaks get annoying or the lifter tick starts.

wow, lots of crud in there. Might be good to run it both ways.

Sounds good, and looks like you got some junk out of there. Definitely do the engine and heater core.

yes, run the water through backwards. Hose to the lower fitting. Hot wouldn't hurt, tends to loosen up stuff. Just don't allow pressure to go above 12 or so PSI, so loose / leaky connection. IF the radiator is not plugged, the flow capacity is a lot higher than the garden hose so no risk.

For some reason, the post below.never went up? Anyway, the oil pump shaft seal is one of the main causes of lifter tick. If it's oem original pump, it's due for replacement by now. The seal in the oil pump The nut unscrews, and the pully slips. off. You have to hold the pump impeller to keep it from rotating. An impact wrench might get it loose , but be careful with that, and it will be hard to get one on there if it's on the car. The oil pump shaft seal might be worth replacing (along with the orings that seal it to the block) unless you know the pump is fairly new.

If you are not at high altitude, get a short piece of awg14 bare copper wire. Make a c around the little check valve in the radiator cap to hold it open. This will allow you to run with a small leak, as long as you check and add water every drive. Never allow air to collect in the upper radiator hose. Flushing the radiator and heater core is good. Just don't allow more than 12 lbs of pressure to build. Normal flow direction for the radiator is in at the top hose, across to the driver's side, out the bottom back to the engine. To flush the engine, remove the thermostat. If you replace it, oem or the highest quality Stant only. Unless I knew the oil pump was recently new or resealed, I would remove it, reseal it. Which involves removing the pulley to get at the shaft seal. Then put a better pulley on it.

Might as well reseal the pump while in there, no? Once it is out of the block, no big deal to swap the pulley.

Flush the stop leak crud out thoroughly. Don't use it again.

Good idea, check the axel nuts.

The description reads like front axle. Aftermarket axles are instantly suspect. I never ran one with missing engine mounting bolts, but the noise matching wheel speed makes no sense if it coming from them.