DaveT

for the 92 Legacy, you want to post on the newer generation forum. More people who have similar cars will see your question. A general tip - Don't mess with any " idle screw" on a SPFI engine. I have yet to see anyone have that be the problem since the days of carburetors.

Only problem with that method, is that there is no seal when the bleeder is loose. So air can be drawn back into the cylinder through the threads of the bleeder on the release of the pedal.

I have not taken one apart. I do have one that needs a new home. From an ea82 powered wagon.

Looks like the intake is installed reversed from a typical Subaru. Missing the bell housing. Loads of modifications - things capped off.

The ones in the steering wheel. On the back of the air bag.

Ok. So when you reconnect the air bag wires, you have to push the little lock thingys all the way in. Do'h!

There is a light thing up top, but nothing else on it I noticed. The red error light is on the combination meter. The light for the passenger air bag on / off is center of the dash, at the very top, with the clock, and MPG meter stuff. Got on & off the passenger seat a few times, the light switched on / off as you would expect, but the error light stayed on the entire time.

How do I check for error codes? Do they show up in a typical scanner for the emissions engine related trouble code, or do I need some other special teader?

a vibration at around those speeds could be a drive shaft universal joint failing. When a needle bearing gets destroyed enough, the shaft gets out of alignment, and at the right speed, resonance makes the amplitude very speed sensitive.

Other things that typically change the clicking of dying axles - loading - acceleration VS engine braking VS coasting. Angle of the axle - where it is in the suspension travel. So yes, unloaded, spinning in the air probably won't be conditions it is under when driving.

Clicking. Noise changes with turn direction. Both point to axle. Or maybe loose axle nut. Aftermarket axles are junk. Very possible either one is bad. But yes, check bearings, and other suspension parts.

it's possible someone installed the disty off a tooth. If it won't get to 20 with the green connectors connected, this may be the cause. The ECU adjusts the timing when the connectors are open, so readings don't reflect what you want to measure.

When you try to check timing with a light, you have to connect the green test connectors. There is a ground to check on a bolt near the thermostat housing. Did you double check the timing belts?

The broken green sensor is not a part for a SPFI or carburetor EA82. I never had a MPFI, so I can't say much about that. The oil pressure sender looks like a normal EA82 SPFI / carb gauge sender. The single wire that connects to it is yellow with a black sripe. That cut wire seems to be in about the right place

A couple of pictures might help.

If it is still working, except for refrigerant, its much easier to go on ebay, get a couple cans of r12 and keep it stock. Better performance also.

The IAC is a cylindrical thing on the front of the throttle body. A hose ells out of the air boot, goes to the right, turns 90 degrees down onto it. Screws.hold the IAC valve to the throttle body. It is weird that it was idling high before, and now is more normal. I don't recall the spec for idle with a stick shift.

The one full revolution is as mentioned above. Tighten the crank pulley bolt is another way to think of it. I don't think it would mattter, it's just to get the drivers side belt to the corectangular position relative to the passenger side belt. After a short test fire, I like to re set the tensioners, because the belts invariably walk into the positions they want to run in, and get a little loose. But this wouldn't effect idle speed like you are experiencing either. A couple degrees of timing is pretty subtle. Also, you cannot get an accurate timing reading unless you connect the green test connectors, as the ECU is adjusting it.

I've been running EA82s since 1988. Not once has replacing a timing belt changed the timing enough to matter at all. The idle screw is the last thing to touch. Never had to turn one of those either. Something else is wrong. Vacuum leak. IAC valve. Bad wire or connection. CTS. Does the CTS you have match the specs for resistance vs temperature of an OEM one?

Factory Service Manual has all of that. Might get lucky on ebay, or if someone in here has one, or a link.

#1 thing to check - timing belt procedure. Did you turn the crank 1 full turn between installing the 2 belts? #2 double check the plug wires. When it runs, is it really rough? Either of these will cause this, really hard to start, won't idle, runs like crap, no power.

These have a child safety "switch" Look on the edges of the door when it's open, above the latch mechanism for a small short toggle lever. It should be up for normal operation, down does not allow the door to be opened from inside. The window, could be in the relay / control stuff, or a broken wire in the cable to the door.

If it's only the boot, clean, re grease & reboot. Even if it makes a little clicking on sharp turns, you are better off doing the same. OEM are NLA , but keep your eyes open for used OEM ones. The ends are painted dark green. Aftermarket are junk, don't waste your time. More parts for these models are NLA also, so be ready to be creative / stock up on parts when you come across them / have a backup car. The link below is not a direct answer to reducing the heat from the cat - it is a side effect of my redesigned exhaust system, however. http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html

Also, get a pressure plate and the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing and seal.

OK, that's it. clutch is gone.