DaveT

Checked the filter in the injector, it is clean.

ok, Ill look at the old one.

I found the problem! Swapped throttle body top 2 layers. This include fuel pressure reg, IAC valve, and Injector. Runs fine now. Since the regulator measured good, and the IAC was swapped earlier, I'm going with the injector is bad.

Yeah, I figured the IAC shouldn't bother open throttle. I did have a wagon years ago that had a broken wire in the IAC circuit years ago. It ran fine, but died if I let the pedal go to idle. I also put a voltmeter on the 12V powered side of the ignition coil, and it was steady except for slight variations because the alternator rpm varying.

More things checked - Spark plug wires, checked ok, but swapped anyways, no effect. TPS switch and pot both are withing normal settings / ranges. One other thing I forgot to put in the OP, it starts right up no problem - no hard start.

SPFI in 93, I think I read to 94. I checked the EGR valve after the OP, and yes, it is working normally. Took it off to check that it wasn't stuck open, etc.

Coolant normal. Fuel pressure stays steady at 22 PSI, just like my other EA82 SPFI wagon. Never moves vs throttle position or load. No recent fuel up. The roughness seems more random than cylinder specific. I'll try to check the exhaust pulses tomorrow. I also swapped the distributor since the original post, no change.

This car is in a garage, driven a couple times per week. Suddenly, yesterday while driving, - Runs rough. Idle, dies. Idle in N dies. I did manage to drive it home, Seemed to run ok down the road, not acting like starved for fuel. In N, press the gas and hold, the RPM goes up, [example 2500]. Then after a second or 2 drops about 500, and the roughness returns. Does this regardless of what RPM you get initially - goes up, then drops back. Does this hot or cold. Capped the vacuum tap on the passenger side, no effect. This eliminates EGR, Evap, HVAC controls as possible culprits. Capped the vacuum tap for the brake booster, no effect. Distributor cap & rotor look normal, not loose. Timing belts are good, not jumped. Swapped the MAF, no effect. Swapped the IAC valve, no effect. CTS has nominal normal readings. Fuel pressure normal 22-23 PSI. Ignition coil & igniter swapped, no effect. ECU swapped - Still runs crap / same, but doesn't quite die at idle in N Running out of ideas....

Its best to start a.new thread for your problem. Things that can cause bad running- first things to check, in no particular order - Bad fuel, Bad coolant temp sensor. Low fuel pressure, blocked cat.

Here is my collection of CTS info -

Check the CTS and wiring for it. Its the 2 wire sensor on the lower thermostat housing.

Which automatic? A 3AT should be manageable. Im not familiar with the gl10 other than they usually have a turbo.

That one goes to the fuel tank. The whole reason that system is there is to collect the fuel vapors, and let them get burned in the engine.

Maybe struts for a Nissan Rogue? I haven't tried this - but I came across this video - at 10:30 you can see the struct clamps into the knuckle similar to the Subaru ones. I don't have any to measure. I figure the top end is easier to mod or swap.

On my non turbo EA82s, for purge solenoids, and the egr solenoid, I use Toyota solenoids. Almost every Subaru solenoid I have ever had has died. I am still using the same Toyota ones I got at a scrap yard in 1989. I've had about 7 of these cars over the time from 1988 til present. I don't know what model the solenoids were removed from, but it was a similar age as the car, so late 80s. They are not unique, so it doesn't matter. 3 ports, just have to test.which are equivalent function, replace the connector with the one off the dead subaru solenoid.

I know the factory service manuals have full wiring diagrams, pinouts, etc.

Active codes are displayed with no connectors. Read memory stored codes uses one set, clear memory uses another. Along with some other steps. With my EA82SPFI engines, I never needed to do either, since 1988.

Note that the ecu code 35 is only an indication that the solenoid coil is open or maybe shorted. (I have only seen them fail open) The ECU is not very smart on this era engines, if you connect a resistor in its place, it will think it is fine.

Correct, long blink is 10s short blinks are 1s. I don't remember what 12 is , don't have the manual here. There might be a list one the forum, or someone will have a thread on that code.

Read the code by counting the blinks on the red led visible in a hole on the ecu. If something is triggering a code, it will just come back. If nothing is triggering a code, the cel should go off on its own.

Im not sure about the swap on this engine. For the EA82, the single belt pulley you take off the oem alternator. You have to shorten the spacer. There is a detailed write up on this forum.

The CTS [coolant temperature sensor] is a thermally sensitive resistor. It has 2 wires, and is located on the lower part of the thermostat housing. I have posted a thread with various readings of Ohms vs temp vs Volts on this forum.

check the engine ground wires and contact surfaces.

crank angle sensor is in the distributor... But you are getting spark if it runs for a burst when you dump fuel down the throat. If the injector sprays when powered by 12V directly, the wiring or the ECU output that drives it are suspect. It is not unusual to get extraneous codes when something major is wrong.

No hammering on aluminum cast parts. Oil pump, distributor, big no, or expect it to break. #1 thing I have found to help disassemble these engines without breaking bolts, etc. - Heat the entire thing to 160-190 degrees F. Easiest to do if it is still running, but a space heater and a heat gun will do it also. About 2KW of heaters did it for me. #2 thing, Kano Aerokroil or similar penetrant. #3 patience! Carefully turn bolts, etc. feeling if the bolt is turning, or twisting off. After years of experience, I can usually tell. Once a bolt starts to move, if it starts to get stiffer again, stop, turn the other way, then go back to loosening, until it sticks. Repeat many times.