DaveT

I noticed looking at a couple of oem ones I have laying around there are 2 slightly different kinds.

I'm not xt specific. But starving for fuel can do that. T in a pressure gauge after the last filter. Other thing I had do this was the guts of one of the catalytic converters broke loose, and mostly blocked the exhaust. Both of these were intermittent when I had them happen. The test for the exhaust is to loosen the y pipe bolts on the studs to get a gap between the heads and the pipe, like 1/2". It will be loud. But if it runs great, the exhaust system has a blockage.

I replaced the balls in one of my oem ones. The cup was good, the star was ok, but the balls in this one had taken the abuse. I got new ones, re assembled it, so far, so good. Keep your eyes open for used oem, but it's going to be tricky depending on where you are.

OEM axles are painted dark green on the cups. Unless they are extremely trashed, clean, regrease, reboot. FAR better than aftermarket axles. Do a few searches on here for all of the past threads with horror stories about aftermarket axles. CVJ / half shaft / front axle.

I don't know those specific ones... Some motors & alternators have a small hole that you put a piece of wire through to hold the brushes back.

referring to the picture in the Jan 3rd post - the tab that the wire connects to broke off of the thermometer thermistor for the temp gauge.

Check the CTS. Coolant temperature sensor. Should be a 2 wire thermistor near the thermostat housing.

The emergency brake on the front wheels is the clue. The calipers do not push in. The piston needs to be screwed in.

It sounds like it has been sitting for long stretches? The idle passages could be gunked up. I don't see anything in your destination that Points to electrical / ignition problems. I don't know specifics about EA81s, I skipped over those years. EA82 Hitachi carbs are a real problem to rebuild.

I had one front diff run dry, leaked out the axle stub seals. The dead bearings wrecked the inside of the front case section. The oil pump shaft just slides out. The dissasembly starts at the rear end. The transmission parts are likely still as good as they were when it was running. The diff is seperate, uses gear lube. The seals between the diff and the transmission sections are probablyruined also.

No knock sensor on SPFI.

I've never had the O2 do anything but cause emissions failure. Could be mildly starving for fuel, T in a pressure gauge. 21PSI, no less. The CTS can cause drive ability problems, but usually it will run ok hot OR cold. Or random / intermittent. I have never had a MAF problem. Also, check the wiring from the sensors to the ECU. They can fail also. BTDT.

The top pic is a jack block I made from plywood. The bottom pic is the proper front jack point. Notice the 2 little notches in the pinch weld. Between them is where you put the Subaru jack. There are a similar pair of notches back near the rear wheels.

There were 2 different final ratios in the 3ATs. My 86 had slightly taller gears than all of the ones I got later, from 88 through 93. The 88 up do about 65mph at 4000rpm on the flat. To go faster, you need more rpm. The 86 was something like 500 to 600 rpm lower. Also noticably slower acceleration, and bog down on hills more. More HP would level that off.

From what I can see in the FSM, the thing on top of the thermostat is the Auxiliary Air Valve. From one of the diagrams, it would let air bypass the throttle plate. Didn't find much describing why / what it does.

Looking through my 86 FSM, [includes the MPFI turbo EA82] the Coolant Temperature Sensor is screwed into a coolant manifold from the top. It has a rectangular 2 pin connector as part of it. It's good to test these sensors, not replace them, unless you have a lot of cash. I have posted a list of readings from my MPFI sensors and FSM test points, but I do not have any details for the MPFI Turbo one, it is a different part physically.

The single terminal one is only for the gauge on the dash. I have to see if my FSM shows the one for the engine control.

Possibly the check valve for the accelerator pump is stuck or missing?

Try extremely slowly opening the throttle. To check if the accelerator pump is working. You can do this in neutral, parked. The accelerator pump squirts gas down the throat whenever the gas pedal is pressed. Usually it can be seen if you look down to the throttle plate, and open the throttle.

What transmission does it have? The 3 speed auto the 4WD is switched by a solenoid on the side.

Coolant Temperature Sensor. It tells the ECU the engine temp, so it can adjust the amount of fuel. A cold engine needs a lot more fuel to get started and run. Oppositely, if the extra fuel is fed to a hot engine, it won't want to start or run well. The CTS is a 2 wire sensor in the lower part of the thermostat housing. Keep your eye open for a Factory Service Manual on ebay, etc. There is no substitute.

Check the CTS for the starting problem.

Is the choke working?

Also, make sure the toe in is in spec.

A couple years ago, I did a swap with another member. I had an extra carb and intake, swapped for his SPFI tb and intake. Better than selling - most of these parts are NLA.