DaveT

Possibly the check valve for the accelerator pump is stuck or missing?

Try extremely slowly opening the throttle. To check if the accelerator pump is working. You can do this in neutral, parked. The accelerator pump squirts gas down the throat whenever the gas pedal is pressed. Usually it can be seen if you look down to the throttle plate, and open the throttle.

What transmission does it have? The 3 speed auto the 4WD is switched by a solenoid on the side.

Coolant Temperature Sensor. It tells the ECU the engine temp, so it can adjust the amount of fuel. A cold engine needs a lot more fuel to get started and run. Oppositely, if the extra fuel is fed to a hot engine, it won't want to start or run well. The CTS is a 2 wire sensor in the lower part of the thermostat housing. Keep your eye open for a Factory Service Manual on ebay, etc. There is no substitute.

Check the CTS for the starting problem.

Is the choke working?

Also, make sure the toe in is in spec.

A couple years ago, I did a swap with another member. I had an extra carb and intake, swapped for his SPFI tb and intake. Better than selling - most of these parts are NLA.

Oh yes, the fuel pump. The fuel pressure on SPFI is 21 PSI, so you need all the hoses & filter upgraded. IF you can, find a copy of at least the schematics from the FSM for both. The FSM also shows connector locations, etc. makes this kind of thing easier.

I don't know about the links. IF the parts car runs, you just need to swap all the pieces, including the wiring.

No. Not in the sense of an intentional controlled system.

Most wipers have a contact in the drive mech. That opens when they are in the park position. When you switch them off, power continues through that switch until it opens.

I've had good luck with fel pro for the non turbo EA82s. For the intake gaskets, and o rings for the oil passages, dealer only.

Looks very much like my 86 GL wagon did. EA82 engine. Mine was a 4WD with a 3AT transmission. Same color. The mirrors were the newer type, integrated with the door, different glass, not separate posts.

GD is usually right.... It has been a long time since I bought a FSM. Both I got at dealers, but the car's were in production at the time. I use my 86 and 90 manuals for all the years between 86 and 93, there are only some small differences. Any fsm from 90 to 93 would likely be very close. The bigest differences I found were in the late 80s, 86-88.

Odd... Idle oil reading hot is always very low. On all of the several EA82 cars I have owned. It's only around 5psi. You have to connect a mechanical gauge if you really want to know what's going on. When you did the reseal, did you remove the oil pump? The only seals that could cause a change in oil pressure are the o rings and shaft seal on the oil pump.

To read the codes from an EA82, just count the blinks on the LED on the ECU. It's bolted under the steering column. You have to take the plastic kick panel off first. Any current code will be flashed there. Long flashes are 10s place, short are 1s place. 2 digit codes only. Everything ok is all short. 5 or 6, I forget.

Yeah, that angle and stuff effecting the engine running sounds really suspicious. How does the pump get the fuel out of the tank on this version? Could the pickup tune have a crack or other failure that let's it suck air at certain angles / under heavy acceleration? Re the sheild - normal sheild practice is that only one end is grounded. You don't want current flowing in the sheild, it is only supposed to absorb the unwanted signal.

PWM of the fuel pump is highly unlikely. These cars are way simpler than that. My EA82s non turbo, the alternator output is low enough at idle to let the battery voltage drop to where it barely keeps up with running the engine. Especially with other things, like a fan or the ac on. The voltage goes up to charging level when you get above idle. The fuel pump obviously drifts up and down with the fluctuations. The wires to the pump are likely shielded to keep the noise generated by the commutator and brushes from getting into the AM radio, etc.

There are no guides on the cam sprockets. That guide is the only one on the engine side (vs radiator side) for that belt. The other belt has the crank pulley, and the one in between the belts. But if your belt happens to track well, you can get away without it.

The oil pump pulley comes right off - with an impact wrench, or once removed, clamp the rotor in a vise with soft jaws or wood blocks. Mine all have the pulleys intact. I think I may have one used one that had the flange loose, so I swapped the pulley for a good one.

The problem with those older model engines is so many parts are NLA. If you have a car that needs that engine, and you want it more or less stock, get any you find for parts. But as a swap or something to try to make performance mods on, not a good choice.

If the back belt guide is detached from the oil pump pulley, don't leave it there. The belt should never be pushing hard against the sides, but they are there to help keep them tracking correctly. You won't be able to buy a new pulley, but a used one might be findable. Or try to repair it. The steel ring is staked onto the cenet part. I don't think the center is weldable. I might try brazing if I had to fix one.

If the tensioners and idler bearings are good, they will be quiet. Good idea, removeing all of the v belts for a quick check. Usually, the dead bearings I've had feel dry like no grease, or crunchy if really bad. They should feel a little dragging from the normal grease. Try using a pice of 1/2" to 1" ID flexible hose as a stethoscope. Be wary of getting the probe end near anything windy. That should help narrow down the noise source.

90-94 should be very similar. I have 86 and 90 FSM, and there are some differences, but between both, I use them for all of the EA82 powered wagons I've had, from 86 through 93.