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Vehicles

Found 11 results

  1. I stripped a hun on my 1985 BRAT, for the second time! The 36mm castellated nut was at the right torque, with cotter pin. What am I doing wrong?
  2. Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road!
  3. The video tells the story!!! The left turn signal switch will activate flashing in bulbs other than the turn signal bulb! https://youtube.com/shorts/AtWGv5Lt3ns?feature=share
  4. ,85 BRAT, Hitachi, 49 state, new fuel filters, old loud fuel pump, new front and rear fuel filters. The car will hesitate and lurch under certain conditions. If I let the car just idle still for a while, and then accelerate, there is not problem accelerating, until about 20 seconds into it, then the balking begins. The normal acceleration indicates to me that both carb barrels are working. I just drove this car up a 1/10 mile 7% incline several times. I let this car idle, still, at the bottom of the hill every time before I did the test. 2nd gear, 2,000 rpm, the car makes it up the hill just fine. 2nd gear, 2,500rpm, the car starts balking halfway up the hill. I am guessing the problem is the fuel pump, or the valve which fills the float bowl. Am I missing something?
  5. At highway speeds, there is a vibration, feels like it's from the front, steering wheel cycles left-right about 5 times a second. I just had new tires put on. What besides tire imbalance can cause symptoms similar to tire imbalance? mkoch
  6. My plan is to remove the windshield on my 1985 Brat, repair the rust around the edges, and then have the a new windshield replaced professionally. I have a new gasket! How do I remove the old one?
  7. The engines on my 84 gl 4wd wagon, and my ‘85 Brat look pretty much the same. Are the exhaust systems the same?
  8. The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
  9. Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty.
  10. 1984 GL 4WD 49 State, with Weber carb. Bah! Trying to find the cause of a problem which comes and goes. 'been pleased with the Weber carb, starts right up usually. Yesterday, I had a crank but no-start condition. Choke in right position, correct fuel pressure to carb. 50 degree day. Removed dist cap, wd-40'd and thoroughly dried it. I attempted to start several times, and I did not get even a "pop". Also, with starting fluid, choke open, then choke closed, no start, no detonation. I let the car sit for a couple of hours, then came back to it to do diagnostics. I removed #1 spark plug wire, to check spark on disembodied spark plug. The car started right up with gusto on 3 cylinders. What is the most likely cause of intermittent spark problem? Anecdotal information wanted! It's all I have to go on.
  11. Ok so I cant find anything in my two soobie owners manuals about it so I thought I would ask the awesome soobie geeks on the fourms about it. My question is, do the older gen subarus have a breather tube or a vent for the transmission? or is the dipstick hole the vent? And if they do have a vent where is it?
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