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  1. So I have an EA81 engine that won't start suddenly. It barely has 60k original miles. It has been used daily for the last 5 months with no problem but before that it sat for 5 years. I have checked: Spark cables are sending their signal as verified by timing light. Battery is good Starter is cranking No catching at all - no sputtering - nothing but cranking over So I am thinking maybe the fuel filter is clogged? Problem is that I do not know what it looks like in this vehicle. I took some photos. Does one of these photos show the fuel filter? Any other suggestions as to what to try? Thanks Picture 1 Picture 2
  2. Hey guys. I've got a 92 Loyale I've been rebuilding, and I think I've got everything squared away but one thing is still bothering me: the fuel gauge doesn't function. It always shows empty. I could track my mileage, and I've had to do that before in another vehicle, but I like everything to work. I really don't know much about how to go about this. I know there's the access panel under the carpet in the back, but beyond that I'm not sure how to proceed in an efficient and logical way. The two wires under the access panel are corroded as hell. So I'm going to clean that all up. I really hope it's not the sending unit, I really don't want to have to try a chase down a new or aftermarket one! Any thoughts guys? Thanks
  3. ,85 BRAT, Hitachi, 49 state, new fuel filters, old loud fuel pump, new front and rear fuel filters. The car will hesitate and lurch under certain conditions. If I let the car just idle still for a while, and then accelerate, there is not problem accelerating, until about 20 seconds into it, then the balking begins. The normal acceleration indicates to me that both carb barrels are working. I just drove this car up a 1/10 mile 7% incline several times. I let this car idle, still, at the bottom of the hill every time before I did the test. 2nd gear, 2,000 rpm, the car makes it up the hill just fine. 2nd gear, 2,500rpm, the car starts balking halfway up the hill. I am guessing the problem is the fuel pump, or the valve which fills the float bowl. Am I missing something?
  4. 1994 Loyale ( Leon?) I need to replace the external fuel pump, which was quite pricey, so I want to put a new fuel filter before the old dirty gas hits my pump. Anyone know where I can get one? I would prefer OEM , but generic would work? Can I use any in line filter? Appreciate any help you could give me Thankd
  5. 1984 GL-10 Hardtop Coupe FWD. EA81, Carter/Weber carburetor. Fuel pump isn't operating. If I provide fuel down the carburetor the engine will run properly until I stop fueling. Replaced fuel pump, and distributor (to provide proper ignition signal, the shaft had some play). I'm focusing on the Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU), but I'm not in a position where I can afford to experiments with a $150 new one without being fully convinced that it will remedy my situation. I need actual diagnostic information about this box specifically. Does anyone know the actual function of the FPCU? First off I'm a Subaru dealership technician, so I'm certainly not shooting blind, but I can't find any actual information about the operation of the FPCU. Using the factory service manual, Haynes, and Chiltons manuals I've been able to find almost nothing of what kind of output this module produces. The manuals all basically say " if power and ground are there, tach signal is coming in, then the pump will run." Yes, that's wonderful, but run how? From what I've figured the pump produces a pulsing power signal, since the pump does nothing and blows the breaker in the Powerprobe after a moment when I supply power and ground directly to the pump. A replacement pump (new) had the same result leading me to believe the pump needs a on-off pulsing power source to operate the plunger solenoid. Followup question: Has anyone ever found a way to bypass the FPCU? if it were as easy as a switch or a relay to provide bypassed power to the pump I would have done that, but that was not successful. Can any of the components inside the FPCU be replaced (resistors, capacitors, etc). I implore you USMB and your fountain of knowledge! ~Erik
  6. Hi Guys, having a problem with my 1999 legacy (30th anniversay edition) 2.5l auto. I've had a search through the forums but not seen anything that matches, hopefully someone has had a similar issue! Since I bought it 2 years ago, there's been an intermittent issue with power in the low gears where occasionally i'll go to put my foot down from stopped or from low speed and nothing happens! The car rolls forward but only at <5mph. Theres engine pitch drops which I can only compare to when I accidentally try to pull away on my old bike with the choke still on. 2-3 seconds later the power kicks in and all is well! This happens 1 or 2 days a week and the rest of the time its fine. More recently (3 weeks) I've been getting a short judder when idling, which is worse on a cold startup. This is followed by what feels like slipping when pulling away. Generally fine once into 2nd and above. I've did think it might be the transmission starting to go, but no problems in the higher gears, no slipping going up steep hills/under load (other than when pulling away on a cold start) and gear changes are mostly smooth. ATF is at the correct level and still looks to be in good condition too. Spark plugs are about 10,000m old, air filter was changed 6 months ago. Next step was going to be changing the fuel filter, but by the looks of things I only have an in-tank filter, not one under the hood so I was wondering if anyone here has any ideas of what to try first before I go fiddling around in there! TIA
  7. Hello: I have a 1995 Subaru Legacy with EJ22 and about 198,000 miles. Car runs great with no starting issues. When I start the vehicle in the mornings (now that it is getting colder) I get a raw fuel smell in the cabin. It smell like fuel is leaking but I cannot find the culprit. Once warm it disappears. No check engine lights. I have viewed a bunch of threads that recommend replacing the Coolant Temp Sensor. I do not have any idle or starting issues so I am not sure replacing the Coolant Temp Sensor will fix the problem. Other threads have indicated it may be the evap canister. How would I troubleshoot that? Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. My wife hates the smell :-) Tom
  8. Hey all! Loving the group here. Just picked up an 1989 GL Wagon from my neighbor for $60... Sat for 9 years. Actually quite clean (but thats besides the point.) After scouring the forums here Ive pretty safely eliminated the fuel pump relay and other miscellaneous issues as my problem. Was able to show 12v (ish) at the harness to the fuel pump when cranking but the pump will not function. Therefore I am looking at replacement pumps! Anyone have any experience with this? http://www.jcwhitney.com/p3095726/sku-12288747.jcwx?TID=gglpla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn_K7mcrB1wIVSjwbCh3SNALtEAkYAiABEgJx1fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Its the Autobest F4323. Says it does not fit my specific application... but looks identical to the factory unit. Any help would be great! NO way am i dropping $150 plus on a pump for a $60 car.
  9. Okay, everybody, so I'm having another problem with my '92 Loyale. It was running fine with the new battery and I got the shim for the loose terminal and that was the fix. But now it struggled to start a couple nights ago, and it's been really, really cold out in my area. It gave a good crank and tried to start but died. I tried again and the same thing happened. Tried once more and that time I pumped the gas while I cranked engine and it got started then, but the vehicle vibrated a little and the idle did not start out high but very low. Also there's been a squealing noise too, like maybe a belt on one of the pulleys? Once the engine warms up the squeal usually stops. After that I was able to start the car fine each time but there's this problem of it idling really low. Any answers, guys? Could it be the arctic weather that caused the problem? Too much cold weather affecting the engine and components? And what can I do about it? I don't think the timing slipped because I got that fixed already last year, brand new timing belt and new plugs and distributor. I saw one of Scotty Kilmer's vids about using an idle throttle cleaner that could solve the problem, but what does my situation seem like to you guys?
  10. I have a 2002 impreza 2.5 TS that was purchased at the beginning of this year. Check engine codes have come on and off over the last 9 months and the engine has progressively shown less power over time. I thought it was misfiring, because whenever I put any load on the engine it would chug like it was misfiring. Spark if good, coil pack is good, spark plugs are good. The chugging became worse and worse over time to the point where it would chug even with a small increase in speed or hill, and eventually one day just quit on the road and hasn't been able to start up since, (unless I give it a lot of gas and it was attempt to stay idle erratically). I put injector cleaner in the gas tank while it was still running, no improvement. The fuel pump noise come on when I turn the key to the on position. Where should I go from here? Pull the injectors and replace? Might it be something else? Codes: P0420: catalyst system efficiency below threshold P1507: idle air control system malfunction P0456: Evaporative system leak detected (very small leak)
  11. Fuel pump replacement: Hello all! Question after story time. Context: 1991 silver Subaru Loyale stock 1.8L EA82 5-speed manual trans w/ stick 4WD button wagon w/203,000 miles. I took my kids up into the hills for a great day for July 4th. We went Up and down in the Rocky mountains and everything worked great. We probably made up to about 9500 feet and back down with no trouble. she did much better with the AC turned off B.T.W. (Colorado Springs is around the 6000+ ft above sea-level mark.) However, On the return, only 3 miles from home, I stopped to price out some news brake pads and discs (I'm still working out the kinks) and the old bird would not start again. Being stranded at the parts store isn't the worst thing to happen, so going through all the motions of the big three: Spark, Compression, and Fuel I found that a little squirt of starter fluid fired the Loyale right up. ok fuel. We got towed home an hour later and still no change. Around 10 PM MT at night I tried again, and she fired right up without hesitation. She ran smooth and clean, idle, 2,000 RPM, idle - it's like she looked at me incredulous that I would think any differently. The classic "What?" look. It was cooled off. Yeah - I'm swapping that pump, maybe even getting a spare eventually. Local part sourcing: O'Reiley's want $200 USD and included a "lifetime" warranty and has it in stock. Advance Auto wants $209 with a 30 day warranty on their Carquest brand with a day delivery AutoZone wants Subaru OEM and charges a whopping $375 and will have it in 5 days (pre-pay only). Online parts: RockAuto.com airTex fro $140 Delphi for $142 Spectra Premium for $143 Carter for $151 Partsgeek.com http://www.partsgeek.com/fbt8fb1-subaru-loyale-electric-fuel-pump.html 1990 Carter $82.33 1991 Aitex $149 1991 Delphi $153 1991 GENUINE W0133-1605415 $262.48 1991 Spectra PREMIUM 409-05488687 $301.33 So... after all that mess. I want to install this: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1987/ford/f150/fuel_delivery/fuel_pump.html 1987 Ford F150 Fule Pump for $44 USD because it's a fuel pump... not a computer, and this is a Subaru, not a BMW or Mercedes. For trivia BMW recommends one to replace TWO pumps: the high pressure and the high volume pump at the same time because... BMW. I'll be breaking into the service manual to check the voltage, line pressure, wiring etc tonight. I'm asking for opinions. ready go...
  12. Hi I am having a look at my fuel system in my car as it seems to jerk around and stutter in low RPMs but runs fine at high RPMs, as I tinker I notice this black round thing, I assume it's for fuel, but it has no fuel in it. I have a 1993 GC8 Subaru Impreza wagon. Is this bad, and how do I fix it?
  13. I haven't taken it out to get a look at it/repair it yet, but just wanted to know if there's a suitable replacement/alternative in the event I need one. I've searched for them but don't seem to be able to find one. Am i not looking hard enough, or is there another model/vehicle's i can use? Hopefully I can get mine working and won't need one. Thanks!
  14. I have a 1997 legacy outback with the 2.5 dohc. The other day it would not start. So i hooked up my reader and it said that the crank position sensor wouldn't read. So i replaced it and now there are no codes. However, when i turn the car on the fuel system has an issue. The pump does engage for a few seconds and pumps up tp about 40 psi. However, it doesn't hold that pressure nor will the pump stay running when the engine is being cranked. Any ideas?
  15. Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
  16. So I am new here today and I will start by saying I have good mechanical skills and I hate cars. I got married in December and with that came a step-daughter with 1998 outback approaching 300K(she bought it about a year ago). I know nothing about Subaru. I have replaced the clutch and associated hardware in the car. I apologize for the length of this post She called me a little over a month ago to rescue her from a parking lot. I found that the alternator on her car was not charging. I charged her up and ordered a new alternator. She drove the car for two days charging the battery and then taking the short drive to work. On the second day when she was going to bring me the car she called to say it would not start. I drove to her and installed the alternator while charging the battery. After installing the alternator I tried to crank the car over, it cranked but would not start. I checked the spark and it was good, so I started checking fuel, no books, no drawings. I tried to hear the fuel pump but nothing. Now is where it gets weird to me. I stopped to remove a fuel line and check for any sign of pressure or flow and then tried to crank again, nothing....I load checked the battery and it was solid. I went looking for fuses and found none. Did not know where to find fuel relay but that did not matter as the electrical was not getting to the starter solenoid. As the sun was setting I decided to have it towed to my house. The next morning before I left for work I tried it and it started right up. I left a message for the daughter to try it later and she did and it started. She drove it around for a day and the next day she went out and it did nothing again, no crank. That night it cranked but did not start. I found online some information and went in search of the fuel pump. Testing showed voltage on the blue/yellow wire, so I ordered a fuel pump. Her brother and a mechanic friend installed the fuel pump while I was away and it ran fine. 3-4 days later, turn the key no crank. Her mechanic friend said it needed a starter, I disagreed and checked the starter with a remote start switch. All fine there. Next morning it cranked and she drove the car for a couple of weeks with no problem. Monday of this week she drove the car home from work said she was having what sounded like fuel issues to me. She tried to restart it and it would not start. I checked the blue/yellow wire thinking the new pump might be crap and found no voltage. Went and bought a Haynes and looked for answers. I now know where the fuel relay is but i have not dug it out yet as I have not had time. Went out this afternoon and wanted to recheck voltage to pump. Had my wife depress the clutch and hold it down I had her crank it a couple of times. I had her hold the clutch to the floor to try to eliminate a neutral start switch. Without ever letting off the clutch, after 6-7 times cranking, tried to crank again and nothing there. I had it hooked to a battery charger the whole time. Any of this make sense to any of you dear readers? I could use some advice, I noticed when I started to dig for the fuel relay that Subaru's have lots of wires and switch and boxes. Last item. As I was closing up the car I heard a relay clicking on and off. It was flashing the four ways but at half speed of what the 4 way button flashes them. I move the blinker control and it stopped for about 10 second and started again. The daughter has mentioned that sometimes when she parks the car the lights do strange things. Would this have anything to do with the anti theft device? I locked the car up and retreated up to my home office, they were still flashing and then just stopped. Help please
  17. I'm looking for all the help I can get. Posted on the orig. justy forum as well (troubleshooting). Here's some recent work I've done on it: weber carb install, new starter, fuel pump/filter and hoses, new battery, new alt belt and had the alt tested. I checked for spark on all the plugs and looked fine, they're pretty new still too. It was pretty cold this morning, and "Clifford" wouldn't start up. Here's a video of what happens: Usually I have to depress the accelerator about half way to get it started cold, but in the video there's only a little change in how it turns over once I depress it fully. One thing at a time...
  18. How long does the fuel pump on an EA81, 1984 GL Wagon usually last? My ride has 164,000mi on it. How long do you gurus think I have left? thanks all!
  19. Looking for pics and/or diagrams showing the components, layout and, ideally, location on vehicle, of the components connected to the charcoal/carbon canister. Where the drain line goes, if there's a drain valve where it is, where the ultimate end allowing access to the atmosphere is (hose end or filter box or valve nipple, etc.) thanx guys
  20. hey everyone! just having an issue with my 94 loyale. I recently replaced the distributor cap and I will be installing new spark plugs and wires, however when driving, my car will have a very unsteady idle or even drop so low that it will die altogether. i have to feather the gas just to keep it running while its on the road and if i dont it will stall out and ill have to start it up again. I have sprayed around the lines for vacuum leaks and i have done research on wether its the fuel injector or maybe one of the sensors or the solenoid is stuck open. i am not sure where to go from here. I have a chiltons repair manual and have looked over what it could be, I would just like a bit more input and direction and hopes its not a big endeavor in both cost and time. thanks!
  21. Ok so I was under my wagon tonight replacing the differential fluid when I saw this little sweetheart. is this another fuel filter? (Well I take that back I know that it's a fuel filter, I just don't know what kind of fuel filter it is) could someone give me some info on it? it's located underneath the car just behind the back passenger side tire. Thanks all!
  22. Hello Subaru Lovers... Read at bottom to help top is just about car. I have a question for you guys that maybe you can help me with. I have been a Honda and VW (old ones) for years but new to this car. So for quick story traded some work for an 86 Subaru bra rust free AZ car, (fixed his Honda) and got it home and just loved it and want to keep it! T-tops 4x4 and boxer motor that I have worked on for years before on type I-V VW got it. IT's the same but not cause there is water in violved. So I ask you as a community to help restore this great car to it glory. And to all the haters I say "It's Got T-Tops"! ok, The tags on car are AZ 97 so last time was on road. Guy before he got it gave it to him for some job, so been sitting for while. I found it and was from the last guy he said had bad pistion (#3) got it and have it here now. Did compression test 170 psi pass right was 160/165 +/- which I think is good. I have restore old VW Westfalia and they big $ now, but as they are cool I still want to keep this car alive. Also I know what that means and to come on getting it running. So car is rust free AZ car title search is AZ all the time no rust, other than little expected litle in bed, easy fix and everything is there and works. So you read about car, Quston of car, I knew was sitting for 10+ under cover that gas would be bad and turn to you all know what into, so I pumped it all out. Put new gas in (4+ gal) and now with new pump and or and pump or suck a drop. The gas that came out wasn't that bad, I've done old 911 that sat for 30 years in rusty area and this was clean. So my question to you all, help me get this car back on road. Yes there could be plug somewhere which I will check, or tank is that gumed up, which will take and get tank cleaned. But what I don't understand it's a carbarted system with 4-8 psi why doesn't goop break fee? Question I have to ask that subi may know. tank has 3 hoses hanging down next to fuel pump so when it was parked there was a problem with getting fuel, I have ran the car under starter fuilded and sounds fine, what is that cyclender (small) thing on the 3rd hose and is it a air thing that's keeping the fuel from flowing if not blockage? Anyone have pictures or digramas to show how that old fuel system works, and or do I have to take real end out to get fuel tank out to get it cleaned? To be more clear, 3 lines come from tank - ones goes to fuel filter, which I get nothin, 2nd goes over in loop, 3rd goes to small capsal thing and back. Any Pics or ideas would be great. Thanks for any help
  23. I have a 1991 Subaru Liberty which was owned by my Great Aunt from new. Its first fuel pump lasted about 19 years. We have had the car since 2009 and it has had 4 fuel pumps in that time, now requiring its 5th. I've used original and non-original parts and nothing seems to make any difference. Between 12 and 16 months the fuel pump stops working. The car does approximately 4000kms a year and has done 137,000 in total. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? One faulty fuel pump I could understand. But I cannot understand 5. This is my first ever post on any type of forum so I apologise if I've posted in the wrong area or done something else that's incorrect. Many thanks. Zara
  24. So my wagon is having issues. Saturday: Ran fine, took out injectors to see if the were the cause of my terrible idle, all seemed well so they went back on. Tried to start it, nothing. A few tries latter the engine seized. I pulled the plugs, unclipped the coil pack, and turned it over. Gas came shooting out like a fountain out of my engine. Put it all back together. Car then turned over but wouldnt start. Realized I forgot an O-Ring for one of my injectors. Replaced it. Still nothing. Sunday: Let it sit overnight. Tried to start it, nothing. Siezed again, cleared it out and replaced plugs. Nothing. Monday: Checked EVERYTHING. Siezed again and again. Then randomly ran for 20 minutes shooting gas out of the tail pipe, turned it off and tried again. Nothing. Tuesday: Replaced ALL O-Rings tried to start, siezed, tried to start again, ran for 5 minutes, but then I hit the gas a little and it died. I noticed that if I press on the pedal and prime it while I try and start it, it starts, but then dies or will run but dies when I press on the pedal. My neighbor (owns a BADASS Forrester) thinks its a fuel pressure regulator. Could anyone give me some of their opinions?
  25. hey everyone, this has been happening every time I start my 87.5 GL turbo recently.. as soon as I turn the ignition on to pressurize fuel, there's a relay above the boost solenoid that steadily clicks and keeps the pump going and doesn't stop pumping until I start it. I don't know what it is but would assume its the fuel pump relay since my 87.1 RX doesn't get fuel unless I use the one from my GL. what I'm trying to find out is where I can get one, because everywhere I've searched I cannot find it. the only numbers/letters on it are- JECS A15-000R00 (stamped) and 7413NA (black ink)
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