Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'stalling'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Occupation


Ezboard Name


Referral


Biography


Vehicles

Found 9 results

  1. Okay, everybody, so I'm having another problem with my '92 Loyale. It was running fine with the new battery and I got the shim for the loose terminal and that was the fix. But now it struggled to start a couple nights ago, and it's been really, really cold out in my area. It gave a good crank and tried to start but died. I tried again and the same thing happened. Tried once more and that time I pumped the gas while I cranked engine and it got started then, but the vehicle vibrated a little and the idle did not start out high but very low. Also there's been a squealing noise too, like maybe a belt on one of the pulleys? Once the engine warms up the squeal usually stops. After that I was able to start the car fine each time but there's this problem of it idling really low. Any answers, guys? Could it be the arctic weather that caused the problem? Too much cold weather affecting the engine and components? And what can I do about it? I don't think the timing slipped because I got that fixed already last year, brand new timing belt and new plugs and distributor. I saw one of Scotty Kilmer's vids about using an idle throttle cleaner that could solve the problem, but what does my situation seem like to you guys?
  2. HI ALL, I have a Subaru WRX 98 model sedan 4dr. Roughly for the past 4-5 weeks, my Check Engine light will come on whilst driving and then whilst doing 70kmh with foot off the accelerator, rolling, then ill go to press the pedal whilst still in motion and it will be flat, constantly bucking if i press the accelerator on and off real fast sometimes it will come out of it. Majority of the time I have to put it in Neutral and let it Stall. The car will start back up straight away, but sometimes as i go to take off it may take me 6 to 7 attempts as it keeps stalling. It seems to be getting worse and i always notice the check engine light on when it happens. Another thing i have noticed is that when i come to a stop and put gear in neutral, my RPM will drop to around 400 and then gradually work its way back up to where it should be, not sure if that is a different problem or part of the same. Someone please Help, Any ideas !!
  3. My husband and I own a 2006 Baja w/ turbo. It has run great for a while, has some past issues that we thought were resolved shortly after purchase. We were currently debating on trading in for a newer subie that fits our needs better but have hit a major snag. It started throwing codes at us. We have gotten the PO303 code with no luck chasing down the issue. We changed the spark plugs, ran great for a few days, then code repeat. Change coil, ran fine for a few days, code repeat. Replaced cyl3 injector, ran good for a day. Then once again, code repeat. We have chased every rabbit hole we can think of and it seems to fix the problem for a very short period then poof, back to square one. My husband even tried unhooking the exhaust to to see if maybe we were catching the code from something in the cad converter. No luck. Now its back to doing exactly what it did when we first got the code. Rough idle, but has now acquired the problem of dying out when the clutch is depressed..... Any ideas or approaches you folks can think of? We dont have the money to dump a lot into this trying to chase down every possibility, but unless we have it running well, we have nothing to trade in to get even close to getting what we were after. Questions, comment, ideas are so very welcome and this point.... we have become extremely stressed over this issue.....
  4. A few days ago, all of a sudden, I noticed a very low (400-600 rpm), shaky idling issue coupled with terrible gas mileage... Today it started stalling at every stop unless I give it gas. I believe cylinders 2 and 4 are missing, though it's hard to tell because the idle is constantly fluctuating and randomly stalling. When I get into gear the engine runs fine (still crappy MPG) and when the choke is on it runs fine. I have new Bosch spark plugs and NGK wires replaced less than 200 miles ago. New fuel filter. Cleaned the crap out of the carb. I pulled the plugs and they look normal. Wires are certainly carrying a charge. No random arcs. No visible crack in distributer cap, terminals look fine. Pretty sure there is no vacuum leak but I'm about to do a carburetor cleaner spray check. Head gaskets look fine, no coolant leak or anything. Could this be a problem with the ignition coil pack? I planned on picking up a better one anyways, hopefully tomorrow. Could this be a thermostat issue? I flushed the radiator not long ago, I'm sure the current thermostat is 166,000 miles old. PCV valve maybe? What other checks/cleaning should I do before I go on a random part-buying rampage with money I don't have?? I certainly won't be driving this thing until I figure it out. Thanks
  5. Is seems I'll never run out of problems to ask you guys about... So it has been rather hard to start now that it's getting cold here in VA, I've actually had to use starting fluid a number of times. But yesterday I was running errands all day and while it ran fine most of the day, by the time it got dark the engine started stumbling at low rpms... sometimes I could have the pedal floored with no response and was forced to downshift...progressively got worse... and today, even though it was warmed up, it stalled at a stop sign, couldn't get it into gear for like 5 minutes without stalling. It idled at like 500 rpms (usually its between 700-1000). It would rev better in neutral than when driving (still crappy though). I ended up just coating the air filter in starting fluid and I got home just fine, as much as i hate resorting to starting fluid. Oil is slightly low, but not to where it should hamper performance. Coolant is fine and relatively young. Spark plugs were replaced last night, didn't help. My small oil leak has been getting worse, mostly from the oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets which I will replace today, a little bit seems to come from the sender, which was recently replaced so I'm hesitant to replace it again. Maybe it just needs some teflon. Not sure if this increased oil leakage could have anything to do with it running like crap... Any suggestions?
  6. I bought a 99 obs about three months ago and its been giving me some funny problems. the cars got 260k miles and im looking to get another 100k at least. Luckily its the 2.2l but when it warms up it feels like it wants to stall at idle. drives great and idles fine at first, but after sitting for maybe 7 seconds the rpms drop from about 500 to between 250 and 300. The car and engine shake really bad and it sounds like its running on two cylinders. I recently replaced the spark plugs with bosch platinums but didnt happen to check the gapping. also the wires were changed at about 160k miles but they are not oem. checked all the hoses I could see and didnt find any holes or cracks and just adjusted my throttle cables which fixed my cruise control issue but still no luck on this darn idle. any pointers would be great! also i dont know if it could be related but I put a cai on it and didnt want to run at all. Maybe faulty MAF sensor?
  7. When i drive my 85 gl and get the motor to about three thousand to four thousand rpms the motor starts to stall and there is a major loss of power it also happens when going up hill im not sure what the proble is my guess would be i need to rebuild my carb or mabe my timing belts but yet agen im not to sure if any one has any other ideas please share the knowledge THANKS TUMMYBUBBLE
  8. Having an issue with my 95 legacy. It will start, and have a rough inconsistent idle, and will stall out when the accelerator is compressed. I have recently replaced the fuel pump, spark-plugs, and the mass-airflow sensor. Wondering if anyone has an idea what the issues could be.
  9. I just picked up an awesome condition 96 legacy awd auto sedan, and it will run, but if you shut it off it will not restart. also, if you drive it when it runs, you get a couple miles down the road, and it stalls. let it sit, it starts right back up, no engine trouble codes. last owner said he thinks its the fuel pump? relay seems to work good, and i have started locating it but cannot find a green relay. and ideas guys?
×