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Found 7 results

  1. Hi all! Just recently purchased a 1993 Subaru Loyale Wagon from a single owner. The beautiful green box is a 5 speed manual (which is very new to me). I have only had 3 hours of seat time, but have already fallen in love with the car. There is currently a check engine light on and I cannot figure out how to the check codes! I have done a moderate amount of searching to find out that the diagnostic connectors are green and on the drivers side in the engine bay. When I plug those green connectors together the check engine light goes away and does not flash. I was under the impression the light would start flashing at me. I have only done moderate car work on 2005 saturn ions. So I am new to most mechanical endeavors, but cant wait to put some blood, sweat and tears into this ea82. Im sure this is some simple issue, but my mind is all over the place. This OBD1 business makes my head hurt Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me some average idle RPMs for the 1993 loyale manual transmission. It was stable around 1k the first week I drove it but sometimes sticks closer to 500. Thanks!! Sorry if this is readily available information.
  2. 1998 Legacy GT ive posted before about a duty c solenoid, im still struggling with other matters. Ive got big dreams for this car but im falling short . The current problem im experiencing is i took the car to a specialized subie shop i was informed there was an egr code, which is in reference to the egr valve and like components, ive exhausted all i can think of to fix it, i replaced the main component checked all vacuum hoses i could see and cleard codes. The weirdness about it comes when i mention that the car has a 96 2.5 JDM engine in it so i have a theory in which new and old ecm dont match and are causing chaos.... PLEASE HELP
  3. My 89 Turbo Wagon and I've been experiencing some jumpy idle at start, and then the check engine light has come on. The light dissappears after the car is shut off. I checked and it's a Code 21. So I bought a coolant temp sensor and am wondering if anyone has any experience installing one of these. Thanks y'all!
  4. My husband and I own a 2006 Baja w/ turbo. It has run great for a while, has some past issues that we thought were resolved shortly after purchase. We were currently debating on trading in for a newer subie that fits our needs better but have hit a major snag. It started throwing codes at us. We have gotten the PO303 code with no luck chasing down the issue. We changed the spark plugs, ran great for a few days, then code repeat. Change coil, ran fine for a few days, code repeat. Replaced cyl3 injector, ran good for a day. Then once again, code repeat. We have chased every rabbit hole we can think of and it seems to fix the problem for a very short period then poof, back to square one. My husband even tried unhooking the exhaust to to see if maybe we were catching the code from something in the cad converter. No luck. Now its back to doing exactly what it did when we first got the code. Rough idle, but has now acquired the problem of dying out when the clutch is depressed..... Any ideas or approaches you folks can think of? We dont have the money to dump a lot into this trying to chase down every possibility, but unless we have it running well, we have nothing to trade in to get even close to getting what we were after. Questions, comment, ideas are so very welcome and this point.... we have become extremely stressed over this issue.....
  5. We were gifted a 1990 Subaru Legacy for our family of 3. The previous owner said it overheated and leaked radiator fluid and didn't want to drive it. I checked it, replaced the $5 leaking radiator hose. Ta da! No overheating problem! Passes emissions. Drives smoothly. Passes Utah's safety check. Tires good. Ac/heat good. Fast forward some months... I now have a check engine light that came on. I followed the directions here with success: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm It runs codes 15, 24, and 35: 15:Fuel injector #2 inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) 24:Air control valve inoperative (Abnormal signal produced in monitor circuit) 35: Canister purge solenoid valve. Solenoid valve inoperative I have no idea what these mean, or if I need to worry about them. Anyone more experienced with this sort of diagnostic? Thanks so much! -Matt
  6. HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED. Yesterday, I discovered the green connector for CEL testing has been plugged in forever. i unplugged it, and proceeded to do what I know, in order to read the check engine light. The oxygen monitor showed codes 21(coolant temp sensor), 24(idle air control valve or circuit) and 34(EGR solenoid or circuit). It got dark, so I went inside and proceeded to look online for a replacement IACV gasket, so I can clean it. I also looked at an EGR solenoid and planned on cleaning the EGR today. When I went to start my car this morning, it fired but died immediately, and I knew something was wrong. One more start and die, and without pumping the throttle or having it wide open, the car just cranked and didnt fire. What the heck? So I read the codes again, and nothing had changed. As far as I know the only thing I did was make a red light blink, so i'm a little confused. Is it possible that the car is acting up because the ECU "didnt know" about the bad egr and iacv until i put it in test mode? before having gone inside last night i started the car, and it RAN FINE. Again, what the heck? Does anyone have any ideas? car has always had idle issues, and at one point an ignition coil that arced to the negative ground. ask me questions and i will answer, but so far, thats what i got. Thank you guys in advance. -walker
  7. Recently was driving from VA to MN in my 92 Legacy L w/ auto trans & pulled off highway to get gas. When I got to stop sign had rough idle & almost no acceleration. Finally checked codes after double checking oil & trans fluid were all good. I pulled a 31, 32 & 35. Had no choice but to drive the other 700 or so miles with the car like it was. Got the O2 sensor replaced with a new one & replaced the purge valve with 1 from the junk yard. While I worked on car had battery disconnected. Started car up still slightly rough idle better but not right acceleration & check engine light still on. Checked codes again & got 24 & still 35. Have ordered another purge valve with 30 day warranty. Am I in any hopes of this & cleaning the Idle Air Valve going to fix my problem as I need to take family back to VA & not comfortable trying to baby it 1100+ miles with kids in the car. Found article saying I could clean air valve with sea foam after getting it warm enough for radiator fan to turn on & slowly pouring the sea foam thru the air valve & it said to expect a LOT of white smoke. Ideas suggestions please
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