jsyme

2 cents: You ask a good question. Let's look at what this is: A wiring harness is a collection of wires. Your harness generally just supplies power and signal everything. It assumes a good ground elsewhere. You can add wires yourself to guarantee good grounds from the battery to chassis ground and between the engine and chassis ground. clean up a spot with a wire brush on a drill and bolt that puppy down with a large gauge wire. troubleshoot the rest.

Really? Water? Is the engine on a stand being serviced? The valves should be open and closed based on the phase of each cylinder...

All these are great suggestions... ^^^ I would say change your oil, and look at the separation in the pan after a day. Antifreeze can go into the oil and emulsify, it doesn't always go into the combustion chamber -or- check your oil stick and look for ugly mayonnaise. Consider the following: Pressure can move from the cylinder to the coolant system, and this can be checked with a bubble chem test at the radiator. It's exhaust going into the coolant. Pressure can move from the coolant system to the cylinder and this will significant white smoke once the engine is warmed up. Pressure can move from the coolant system to the oil and make oil/anit-freeze mix emulsification Pressure can move from the coolant system to the atmosphere in the form of a leak. Pick your favorite.

My hood Release is the same now. It's completely possible. I pulled out the front grill, surprisingly without breaking it, but break it if you have to. Once out you have full control over the hood release switch. Use your right hand to come up behind the verical post and pull the cable actuator to the driver side (USA driver side), while your left hand comes up the left and pulls the hood release lever. -click- -OR- It could be the scenario where the plastic handle broke away from the metal cable. Get a hold of the cable with some fliers and pull.

I have the 1989 GL D/R wagon (which should match that one exactly) and that doesn't look like mine.

Don't forget to paint your key. Paint it Bronco's colors: With the Denver Broncos record standing today at 3 and 3. (The AFC South's Texan's are also 3 and 3.) Pick your poison., but don't forget to paint your key.

Good details and good question. I'd be thinking about the quality of the fuel, and the timing belts. * Spray starter fluid into the air box and crank it * Get the belt covers off and look for shredded belt debris along the bottom Did it stop running right after you refueled?

My Loyale has the speaker wires ready to rock installed in the rear doors, but no the space in the interior panel. So, I just cut them out. They still sound good. I also installed the map light housing running bright white LEDs and I fed it power from the center dome power source. I'm told that the map-light wiring is in the A-Pillar tucked down low, but I opted not to disassemble the interior to fish it out. It works great! One thing about NOT having a moon roof, is that I have more interior room for my 6'1" frame.

Yep - I "don't prefer" automatic seat belts. The 1992 Loyale has a deteriorating rubber border around that track and it's like a crumbly black tar if it get on my fingers that is tough to wash off. Mine seem to be working fine on the driver and passenger side, but EVERYONE that is unfamiliar with them and rides in the passenger front seat says something about them. If I had to do it again, I would buy the SFI GL over the Loyale wagon. (that and the DR trans.) (and the speaker space in both rear door panels) (and the map lights) (and the moon roof)

Encouraging slap on the back: You can fix it JaketheWhite, just take a more methotical approach. You can do it. I'm hesitant to mention it because of the obvious risks working with fuel and electricity, so no liability on my part... Get the right tools: I highly recommend a powerprobe so you quickly test points with both ground and power stupid fast. Also get enough cable with it so you could potentually test trailer brake lights from the car's battery. Steps: Test everything individually i.e. * test your old fuel pump by itself * test new pump * test the ground wire to chassis from the pump * test the hot wire from the relay to the pump, is it continuous? * test the relay with a continuitiy light and powerprobe Without a powerprobe: * Grab the hot wire from your passenger tail light and extend it down to the fuel pump, turn on your lights and try to start it. * pass/fail you know where to spend your time: fuses, relays, wires, pumps, ignition switch, dead battery, plugged filter, pinched hose, no fuel in tank, bad gas in tank, water in tank, no tank, window tint too dark, unpaid parking tickets, man-made global warming, lieing politicians, that thing you did last summer, you could be on your way to litterally changing the world. * Replace garage fire damage as required Tips: * Presume that you have two (or three) broken pieces instead of one. * PowerProbe has had several model releases. They are all good. Find a mechanic that often "buys the new one", and buy his old one with a 12 pack of beer.

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I think my money is on the IAC valve. (Idle Air control.) Check out this thread: Low cold Idle 93 Loyalehttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/64199-low-cold-idle-93-loyale/ Here is a generic link to troubleshoot it: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-check-an-idle-air-control-valve-by-jerel-lawrence

Is it actually overheating? Cold. Can you start it without touching the gas pedal, and do you hear it idle high<2 minutes> and then slow down when it gets to temp? All without touching the gas pedal?

It still sounds like there is air in the lines. This time bleed the brakes in factory-incorrect farthest-wheel-from-the-master-cylinder-first process <one wheel at a time only>, and attach a clear rubber hose (3/8" ID?) to the bleeder valve captured inside a 1 liter plastic bottle. just leave that valve open and pump some brand new DOT3 through it like a madman. If you're really clever you might find a way to make a change of color (blue) in your reservoir, and once you see that in your bottle, you know you've done a complete fluid replacement in that line. Rinse and repeat 3 more times, and then come back and tell us how happy your are and take a picture of the bottle jig you used.

I'm not familiar with the 1984 Brat (NA/USA) specifically only drivetrains generally. Consider it actually a 2 wheel drive... one of the two front wheels will always pull, and one of the rear two wheels will always pull. presuming the opposite wheel is off the ground or has not traction. (as long as you aren't in reverse where is may bind) (as opposed to say a Honda civic "front wheel drive" where only one wheel actually pulls.) (as opposed to say a Toyota HiLux, (that I want so badly in diesel) with differential lockers, and front-axle lockers, and rear-axle- lockers... that actually is 4x4 and all 4 wheels are pullers. Check out Jeeps Solid axles and Limited Slip differentials if you want a diff-erent experience.