DaveT

Need a FSM, and a voltmeter. Check for power, check for grounds. ebay, or someone may have a link to a scan.

They stopped making these models long before cabin air filters were invented. You have to remove the dash to get the heater box out, disassemble it, replace all the eaten off foam, clean every duct, the core, the A/C evaporator, etc. with bleach. When you put it back together, put 1/4" hardware cloth over the 3 holes in the firewall that bring in fresh air. Technically, you also have to clean those passages. Been there, did this. Took a week. I HATE mice.

If you have OEM axles, clean, re-grease, reboot. All of the aftermarket are junk.

Intake manifold gaskets. One of the 7 cooling system hoses. Radiator in poor condition. Check it at least once per day. Even then, some of these can fail worse suddenly, leaving you low on coolant and over normal temperature. If that happens, sooner or later, head gaskets. Check things until you find it and fix it.

On the ECU, there is an LED, visible through a hole. Normally, it's mounted to the underside of the steering column. I am not extremely familiar with the XT, but EA82 SPFI, I have been maintaining since 1988. The TPS has adjustment for the angle, so you can set the idle switch. You should be able to get it close enough just by making sure the marks from the screws overlap the same places. The FSM has procedures for adjustment and checking the function of the switch and the pot.

oddly, they don't seem to show torque for the pump mounting bolts. The nuts on the studs that hold the pulley and fan are 6.7-7.7FtLbs. So I would not go above that.

CAm seals don't leak sitting. There is also an oring behind the little piece with 2 bolts that the cam seal is pressed into. The OEM ones get hard and leak also. The new ones I've put in are viton, and don't get hard. I'll see if I can find the torque spec. But yes, something like that sounds about right. The idler pulley - do you mean the one with teeth? I replace the bearing on those. It's a standard bearing, just make sure you get contact seals- if the description does not specifically say contact, they are not good for this application.

Those bolts sound a little loose.. I don't remember the torque spec off the top of my head. They are small, not grade 8, screwed into aluminum, so they aren't "head bolt" tight either.

No, turning it by hand isn't going to do anything to the oil pump. You can't move enough volume fast enough to harm anything.

No throttle re learn, these are simple systems. If the TPS is really bad, you should have a ECU code blinking on the LED on the ECU. Might be worth checking the fuel pressure - if it's low, it can idle fine, but be gutless as it's starved and leaned out.

An EJ2.2 is already 40% additional power. You need to use 4WD to put that power to the road without spinning the tires, even in 2nd gear. I would be worried about a 2.2 breaking things further down the driveline. I think I read someone swapped the transmission also, and made up axles to get from the newer transmission to the wheels, driveshaft, newer diff, etc... a lot more mechanical adapting and fab, I think.

water pump bolts don't need sealer. It's good to use anti seize on them, and other bolts.

Make sure all 7 cooling system hoses are in good condition, replace one, replace them all... Make sure the radiator is in good condition also. If you run low on coolant, and the temp gauge goes higher than normal, odds are you will need new headgaskets.

Attached to the bracket the brake pedal pivots on.

Ah, yes, that doesn't make me think low pressure.

Yes, injector side.

If it could be fuel pressure, T in a mechanical gauge. On one of my SPFI cars, the regulator died, dropping the pressure, and it would starve for fuel. All kinds of bad though, idle ok, sometimes, sometimes not. Barely could get any power. Of course, I made the mistake of assuming it was the fuel pump and replaced it, only to find I still had the problem. Swapped another regulator from one of my spare engines, and it was a lot better. Initially it would only handle about 3/4 throttle, so I bought a separate add on regulator, planning on setting it up and I'd be able to adjust the pressure. Then one day before I actually installed it, I was driving, and discovered I had full range of throttle working. So far, it still is.

I have had good luck with the highest level water pumps from NAPA. They came with the o ring and a gasket.

Mostly turbo vs non is engine and ECU differences. There are various transmissions, those may make differences. It's safest to get the entire car if possible. IF not, I would want everything in the drive lines from the transmission to the tires. Depending on the transmission controls, the wiring harness involved, and or an vacuum stuff involved. Check what kind of rear brakes both have also. Many parts for these are getting rare / hard to find / NLA, so collecting them is a good idea. There are a couple of transmissions that are different. I am most familiar with non turbo EA82 powered automatics, the 3AT 4WD transmission. There were a few that were AWD, most common is 4WD. There is a difference.

If you get the awd transmission from another GL10 with awd, and the rest of the drive parts, it should be no problem. The non 10 transmission will bolt onto the engine, but I don't know about the mounting / body dimensions. You do want to get the transmission and diff from one car. Might as well get the trailing arms, driveshaft and axles too.

If I had space to store it... looks like a good body.

Not quite bolt on. Adapters for the mechanical stuff. Remake a wiring harness for the engine EFI system. The typical EJ 2.2 swap is from the early legacy models. Some have done transmission also from them. But you need to do mix and match axles / driveshafts etc. There are threads for these kind of projects in this section. Note - I am just going by the threads I've read about this, as I have thought about ej ing my loyales.

Hmmm... the stock radios in mine the power was switched by the key. Only the memory feed wire stayed on. What model and year car are we talking about here?

This is very weird. Makes no sense. Are the cam and the non-stock radio powered by that line, or is it just some kind of sense input for them? What are they powered by?

No power feed is grounded when the key is off. When power is switched off, the circuit is left open. The loads inherently pull the voltage down, since there is no supply. The wipers should not significantly effect the voltage on the power feed to them. The 12V has to be solid enough to power them. The stock radio is nothing fancy. Probably only drew an amp or 2 cranked up. There are 2 power feeds to the radio - one is switched, the other is always on, to keep the memorized stations from being cleared.