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To the point I just wanna do a weber swap and i have a way to get a kit. Good idea or not?

Dave, is there any way you could just gut the inside of your stock regulator so its just a shell, seal it up real good and add your custom one to the outside? probably not huh. Something tells me you thought of that already. A bit of a redneck idea I admit but I have a good excuse, I'm from N.idaho!

Thanks again Dave. I will check all that out. You are full of good ideas! No i did not check the boot.

There is no fuel in the vacuum side of the regulator and not running rich. I read somewhere that means its ok. If u know more ways of testing it tho im game. I am a bit irritated at this point. Wish I had the cash to do a weber conversion on it so i can huck this obd1 junk out the window lol

I finally got ahold of a pressure tester. 25 psi between the filter and the input hose. Not sure what it should be but it doesnt drop much at full throttle or when the engine chokes and gags, the flow is solid at 24 - 25.

Cts checks out ok. Did a few different tests on it and the system. In the end a simple resistor test i found online told me my answer. One of my first thoughts as well. Would've been nice if it had been the issue though lol tho I checked the MAF as well, seems ok and fairly new actually and replaced the TPS with a spare I had. No change. Dealt with the egr system which was the only thing throwing a code. Also, i found several places online that say they have the pump including autozone. Ya never know what they really have til ya go to order it tho lol.

The more I think about it the more sense it makes too. Obvious even. It's at the top of my dookie list now. I may feel dumb now but Ill get over that pretty quick if its the culprit. All it would take is one temporary seize as the relay sends its pulse to cause a cutout. Duh! Thanks guys! I appreciate it!

Excellent idea and one base i haven't covered yet because i need to get my hands on a gauge. Now that I think of it i had to smack the pump to get it going after it sat for a long time. I suppose it could be seizing as it warms as well but working fine cold. I do know the filter is ok. Thanks! Just conversing helps me brainstorm....

88 subaru gl wagon. 1.8 spfi, dual range manual tranny. 235k on car, 120k on engine. Starts and runs fair enough but drops power after 15 minutes or so and eventually stammers and stalls while driving. You can start it back up after it dies only to have it repeat the cycle a minute or so later. Ecu throws no codes. No matter how warm it is you have to ease into the gas or it chuggs out and stammers eventually dying if you dont let out. Car ran ok before sitting about 5 years. No vacuum leaks that are obvious though i guess there could small ones around gaskets that i am unaware of. Pretty sure something somewhere is expanding with heat and causing an issue. Catalitic converter or ignition module maybe? At a loss here! Thx in advance.