DaveT

Got any pictures of it? The broken part of the head.

Is the thread just stripped, or part of the casting broken off?

Yeah, I always mix up the letters!

NKG I mean NGK . I always mix up those letters!

For an EA82 engine, if you follow the factory method of installing the timing belts, you DO turn the engine one full revolution between installing the first belt and the second.

Are the old axles original Subaru? Do they click, or do anything worse? If they are original, and not destroyed, Clean re-grease and reboot them. They'll go another 100K miles. Any cheap aftermarket ones, you are not doing anyone as favor - I would not sell them to a friend.

The pistons must be screwed in, NOT pressed. They may or may not have survived, depending on how much force was applied. Only way to find out is try screwing them in. It takes a good number of turns. What I have found effective for loosening the cone washer is a punch at least 1/4" round flat end. The bigger sized ball peen hammer, probably about the weight of a carpenter's hammer. or a little more. Trying to use a regular size ball peen, you end up pounding as lot, and deforming the washer more. The shock force is not high enough with the small hammer, at least for me. A screwdriver is not effective, because the handle absorbs the shock. If the washer is stuck to the axle, pulling on the hub will only clamp it tighter, don't do this. If the washer fell out, the nut was probably too loose. Use anti seize compound when you reassemble everything. If you resort to torch, seals and possibly bearings can be damaged. Seals are probably bad anyway. Unless it's extremely rusty, I don't think you need to torch it.

For the initial experiments, I just don't want to loose $. If it did turn out to be something, I'd want to make them affordable, but worth the time / work.

I still need a sample part to make a model from. I only have EA82 stuff.

I don't know how anyone could evaluate a crank and pistons etc. while still assembled, except to rule out totally destroyed maybe. I've driven a few EA82s past 200K miles. Never did anything more than reseal from the head gaskets up. Lapped valves, probably didn't need to. Never checked the springs any more than what one would notice while removing the valves to replace the seals. The EA82 I have with the most known history of, is a 1990. It was in a car I bought in 92, with 15K miles. Put synthetic 10W-40 in it, along with the Amsoil bypass filter. Never changed the oil again, just added new and changed filters. Around 150K miles, did a reseal to stop all the oil leaks, [every one I've had started leaking oil around 100K] and the head gaskets were slightly damaged by a run while low on coolant. . The bearing surfaces and dimensions on the piston rods were all in factory spec. I did not bother with removing the crank / splitting the case. I've seen others running conventional oil, with regular changes with similar low wear. I've resealed oil pumps to fix the noisy lifters a couple times on the several of these I've run. This includes the Micky o-ring, the regular one, AND the shaft seal. Oil pumps are NLA. I seem to have less problems with lifter tick than I see on here. The inside of the engines seems to be cleaner after I've run them with the synthetic than when I first got them. I am still running the 1990 engine in one of my wagons today.

Depends on what level of rebuild. If it was only mildly overheated, or just leaking oil everywhere, Reseal from the head gaskets up can still be done.

I have a 93 and an 87. I intend to run them indefinitely. Plan on stocking up on NLA parts. Getting creative with adapting generic parts when needed. Plan on doing all your repairs, unless you are lucky enough to live near another one of us crazys who run these EA82s. Plan on continuing to have ridiculously low tax bills. No emmisions testing hassles. If it runs and drives you might get 1000 for it from a just anyone kind of buyer - who will be screwed the first time anything real breaks... If it's near mint and no rust you could get more, but there are not a lot of us around... my 2 are very low rust, so I'm not looking for another one. The only trouble I consider "fatal" is when the rust gets out of control.

Going by the diagram in my 1990 FSM for EA82 - The TPS is a pot, one end to GND, top end to +V - probably 5V the computer ICs run on, but I have not verified. The output [wiper] pin should go from near 0 to near power rail. I would have to analyze a bit to determine if 0 = no throttle or 0 = full throttle. But either way, the signal should range from roughly 0 to 5V, varying with position, measured from wiper to GND. If they followed their conventions of wire colors, the black wire is GND, and goes to the 0 throttle end of the pot, and one side of the switch, which is closed at zero throttle. An aftermarket ECU should have details in it's manual about the signal range and it's requirements.

Not likely. Sounds like a bad / corroded connection somewhere. Time for a schematic and a volt meter or test light.

Not likely. Best bet, is finding one with bad rust, or dead engine / transmission as a parts doner. Or maybe someone on the forum has extra parts.

The OEM ones were easy to break. And they fail. My solution: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

There are screws on the bottom. They are very tight, even if not rusted. It takes a LOT of pressure on a screwdriver that fits the cross in the screw well to get them to turn. And vise grips clamped to the shaft of the screw driver. I used part of the car's weight for the force to keep the bit engaged.

I never had an 83... But I had older and newer. None ever had any weird effects switching in and out of 4WD on the fly. Best to switch on straightaways, as opposed to sharp curves. miss matched tires or gear ratios if a trans or rear diff was swapped with the wrong one can cause binding and difficulty switching out, and weird handling.

The max on the printers I have access to is about a 7 inch cube.

I once had one tracking like that. Flipped the belt, and it went to the old path

California cars have an additional sensor, to verify egr operation. Not sure if the ECU is different, or has different programming.

Try looking up lockwasher by dimensions at an industrial parts supplier. Like McMastercarr.com or mscdirect.com.

If the belts were installed correctly, the distributor should not need to be adjusted for timing. If they are off, it may not turn far enough to correct the error, and the valves would still be off. There are lots of threads on how to set / check timing belts on EA82s. I've typed it out a few times, it's a lot of typing. When installing, you must use the 3 ||| lines mark, NOT the Degrees BTDC marks. The 3 lines is almost 180 degrees away from the TDC timing marks. When the middle of the 3 lines is at the arrow on the bell housing, one cam timing hole must be up, the other down. Dead straight up /down. When cranking it by hand to set the position, you should be able to feel compression for each of the 4 cylinders as you turn the crankshaft. The peaks should be evenly spaced. TPS - probably worth looking into that. I haven't had a bad one yet, so I can't say for certain what the symptoms look like.

Just want to be sure things a clear - The timing belts were replaced before the failure. Have they been checked since the failure? Running low on oil or coolant is bad for these engines. Both at the same time is very bad. If it ran above normal temperature while low on coolant, odds are very good you need new head gaskets. Only question is how long before they fail to the point of the engine being unusable. With the 2 diagnostic connectors disconnected, you can read current codes on the LED. Fix those that could cause failure to run first.

I never noticed any changes when replacing or re tensioning the timing belts. Early on, I would check the timing. It never varied. Whistle? Check for a dead bearing or an air leak.