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Found 9 results

  1. Hi Subi Fans, I have a 2005 Outback, 3.0R VDC 5AT w sport shift. Recently the CEL came on and produced code P0768, which has to do with the Shift Solenoid 'D' electrical. The solenoid is located on the control valve assembly, which is inside the transmission pan. The problem is intermittent, and I have been able to reset the code several times, but within a few miles the CEL comes on again. This last time while pulling a steady hill as it went to shift between 3 and 4. Until my next reset, it is stuck now in one of those gears. The sport shift would not work either. Of course, about half the lights on the dashboard are going wild, and cruise control is dead. After much investigation I am pretty sure no one is re-manufacturing or rebuilding these valve bodies, and no solenoids can be purchased separately. 1) Does anybody know where I can get a rebuilt valve body with tested solenoids? I have found a used transmission (131,000 miles) for $485, which includes shipping. 2) Is it a good idea to purchase a used transmission and then remove and reuse the valve body from it? Subaru still sells the valve body under part #31705AA4309L, and those run $750 to $935. It is a new part and has at least some warranty. This valve body fits a good number of 6 cylinder 5AT Subi models from 2005 to 2007. 3) Is my best bet going to be a new valve body? Last question. It is kind of a messy PITA job to get inside the tranny case just to look at the wiring and make sure things are plugged in, and replacing all the tranny fluid is not cheap. If I am opening it up I want to replace the valve body (or the D solenoid). 4) After replacement, does the car's computer need to be reset? Or can I just drive away? 5) If so, is that something I can do, or must the dealer (or my good independent garage) do it? If anyone can help, or has any resources, please let me know - I am OPEN TO IDEAS. The car is great otherwise, but has a salvage title and 208K, so we are getting leery of big expenditures to keep it going. I have had it for eight years. THANKS !!! Craig
  2. Hey guys! Just need a little help identifying a solenoid to order a replacement. I can't tell if it's the egr solenoid or the purge or what to find a part number. https://photos.app.goo.gl/L7jeCYzfY1yRFPEF9 Couldn't figure out to upload photos, so there's a Google album with the pics. My big confusion is that the connector for it is different than the one that pulls up. A part number would be awesome as I broke the plastic valve.
  3. Hey there, I've been visiting for a while to read the threads for advice with my car but just signed up to actually join the conversation. Thanks to all the folks with the experience on here that post on these threads--I cant tell you how many times one of your threads has led me to figure out whats up with my car. Transmission related question for whoever's out there: I drive a 1997 legacy outback with +/-45k miles on a second engine and pushing 250,000 miles on the original transmission. I have pretty bad torque bind that is very apparent in turns. Transmission shifts fine, minus the occasional late or slightly hard shift and the car drives smooth. Question is this: Do i spend the money to replace the Duty C Solenoid and and the Clutch Pack or do I spend a bit more and replace my 250,000 mile trans with a 30-60k mile JDM trans? (All work is my own--so only real consideration is the price of parts) I was just going to fix it until i realized that the parts I'm looking for come out to about half the price of a JDM transmission. (Maybe im looking in the wrong places but solenoid=$130 and clutch pack=$120-200, does that sound right?) I'm a bit attached to this car--Its been a project for me--so getting rid of it is not an option. Thanks in advance for your advice.
  4. Hi All, I am new here but could not find this... I live in the BVI and recently got a 2003 Subaru Forester XT 2.0 Turbo imported from Japan. Yesterday not sure why the 'ECO' light started flashing and the car stopped switching gears. Mechanic checked today and looks like it is stuck on 3rd gear so he asked me to buy (we can't get the parts here) 5 transmission solenoids... First of all... is it correct? There are 5 Solenoids? Are all of them the same? Where can I get parts that will fit my Japanese import? As you can see I am not really one that understands about cars (would love to though) and have no clue what exactly to buy... Thanks in advance, Sergio
  5. I need some help with my car not starting, 2003 Legacy GT 2.5 So on my way to class this morning, my car started right up and took off with no problems. Just as I was about to get to campus, I lost power to the engine and my power steering cut out. I hopped out and pushed it to a side street before trying to start it back up. The radio, dash panel, and headlights still worked fine. I remembered that I had left the dome light on all night and thought that maybe it had drained the battery to the point where it had enough charge for on start, but that doesnt make sense as to why it would just start. I had my room mate pick me up and take me to O'Reilly's so I could get another battery, (When I had my oil changed a couple weeks ago, they said my battery was at the end of its life and I should look into getting a new one) If it didnt fix the problem I still needed a new battery anyways. After we threw the battery in and got everything hooked up, I tried starting it again, and it was the same issue. It would sound as if it were going to turn over like usual for a second, but then it went to a lighter, less guttural starting sound. I had half a tank of gas so its not that. Is it the alternator or would that effect the power to the whole car? I thought it could be the fuel filter needing to be replaced and the engine was just starved of fuel. Any ideas?
  6. Hi all, This is my first post after having lurked these forums for a while. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback that has been slow to start this winter. When I start the car for the first time of the day, there is generally a fraction of a turn over, but it won't start. It seems like something is "sticking", and that after a few tries, it unsticks. I try this somewhere between 2-6 times, and it will finally start and run just fine. Then, throughout the day if it hasn't gotten too cold, it will start right up on the first try. This morning I had the same issue in which it took about 6 attempts before it fully turned over and started right up. I then went to the gas station and filled up, and had the same issue trying to start it at the gas station. However, this time, it seems like the starter stayed engaged. It made a lot of noise while I drove it for about a half block before pulling over and turning off the car. The car continued to try to start for a few seconds after I removed the key. I let it rest a few seconds, and then started it back up just fine. Now, I have the check engine light on. Any input on what this could be? I've tried to narrow it down to a starter solenoid, or maybe the starter relay, but I wanted to share my specific symptoms and see if you all had any ideas. Thanks for your time!
  7. Just finished timing belts, water pump, pulleys, new oil seals, brand new vacuum lines, all new bosch ignition, pcv valve, pcv hoses, karropak gaskets on throttle, everything's tightened down!and sealed up, cooling system bled, new thermostat, etc... I checked and got codes 11, 12, 13, 34 & 35. Only had the car about a week, but no engine light before timing belt. Curious about the possibility this is an error as the car runs awesome, idles a little high though (1000-1100 rpms)
  8. Hey everybody, I just got a 1990 Subaru Loyale a few days ago (will post pictures soon), while driving the check engine light turned on. It turns out it is a ISC Solenoid Valve Fault. I'm just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and what you guys did to fix it. EDIT; my bad guys, i was looking at the wrong codes After looking at the correct codes the problem is in fact the Idle Air Control Valve or Circuit.
  9. i have purchased a used matching transmission for my 96 legacy because after driving it around with torque bind something in the transmission gave out. (i suspect it is the front diff, between the engine block and the transmission its self) My question is, is how can i check the resistance of the solenoid coil while i still have this transmission outside of the car. id like to know if it is faulty seeing as it is a used transmission, before i install it completely in the car. i am hoping someone knows what pins on the drivers side electrical connection plug is for the solenoid, and what the resistance should be. i really do not want to cut any of the protective outer jacket to trace out the wires on the connector. if i need to post pictures so people know what exactly i am talking about i can. B raynor
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