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Found 11 results

  1. Hi all. In a pinch. Currently stranded in Golden/Denver Colorado. Vehicle: 1998 Outback engine: ej251/25D hybrid Story: swapped a great running motor from my rusty '96 to this '98. In the process I put a NEW timing kit, NEW oem plugs, new oil pump, new clutch-kit/slave cyl., new oil pressure sender... ran beautifully all the way here from South Dakota, with many trips up and down the canyons from Hwy 119 to the Front Range. Two days ago, CEL came on and I stopped at an auto parts store. Got two misfire codes, and not having noticed any symptoms I cleared it. It coincided with using the a/c, so I moved the a/c harness off of/away from the spark plug wire. I figured something may have arced. No issues until trying to climb out of Denver up I-70 yesterday. CEL came on and flashed a few times. Pulled the car immediately to the side of the road and was turned off. Oil light did NOT come on. Symptoms came. Horribly shaky idle, no power. I checked all spark plugs (on the side of the road), and they were tight, and looked in okay condition. Idles like it is missing cylinders. While idling I pulled off/on all spark plug wires and injectors. No difference (except VERY minor idle-up for 1 second) with cylindees 1/3. Motor dies when 2/4 are pulled. Got towed to a local dealership and they were nice enough tp read the codes. P0261, and P0267 I believe this is Low/No voltage to cylinders 1 & 3 injectors. (In my frenzy I installed a new coil, and new spark plug wires) I took a volt meter to the yellow wire of each injector plug, with ignition switched to ON. 2 & 4 get 12v, 1 & 3 are dead. I tried directly wiring the yellow wires to the battery, and there was no difference in engine performance. Where/what should be my next step? Is it true that the injectors get constant power, but the ECU/ECM adjusts the pulse timing via internal grounds? I'll be looking at diagrams today to try and get this going...any suggestions will help. I'm supposed to be getting towed back up to Gilpin County where I'll have a garage to sit in. Thank you in advance for any suggestions! Greg
  2. My husband and I took my 02 Legacy wagon to a local Suby dealer to see what it needed to pass PA inspection. (It had passed when we first bought it used a couple of years ago, but we knew it'd need some work this time.) I was really bummed when the service writer told us that, in light of the CEL codes my husband reported reading, the engine is on its way out and it wouldn't even be worth their looking it over! My previous Suby, an '01 RS 2.5 which we bought new and had for about 14 years, had over 300K on it and was still running when we sold it. My Legacy just passed the 200K mark. My question: is there any way to know how long the engine will keep running, and is there anything we can do? It doesn't bode well when the Subie dealer doesn't even want to work on it. Not only do I love my Legacy, but we can't afford a new or even new-used car, right now! Here are the codes: 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304, 0172, 1137, 0457. Any advice would be most appreciated!
  3. So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual
  4. I have a 99 OBS with 290K miles and AT. The car has been running great as I take good care of it. Then one day after adding oil the CEL came on with "Faulty Knock Sensor". It would randomly retard the timing, then run normally. It's a recently new sensor but I changed it with a cheapo anyway. Same thing, so I tried a different one. Swapped the ECM, sea foamed the engine, new spark plugs, oil change, new pcv valve, adjusted my valves, even moved the knock sensor to the hole back and to the right of the original knock spot. There's no CEL now but it will still randomly go into limp mode and then come out of it strong, and then lose some of that extra power. I really want to get this fixed for sentimental reasons and because the engine is still very strong.
  5. Been a while since I've seen this side of the forum. So, just got myself an 07 OBW, base model with a 5sp stick shift and only 78k on her clock. Runs great, no problems what so ever, purrs like a kitten, lots more power than even my built EA81, goes like the proverbial ape. But on day 5 of ownership (this morning's commute), it kicked out a CEL with a flashing cruise light. Reading up on nastysock and legoGT provided me with at least the idea is that it is emission or oil filter related. I'm going to call the dealership I got it from as I purchased an extended warranty with the car (3yr, 60k) and see what they can do for me. But in the meantime, any of you EJ experts have any clues for me? i may know plenty about EA and early EJ setups, but this new of an EJ is all sorts of different to me. Twitch PS: Yes, there will be a "User's Rides" thread about it, but have to come up with an appropriate name for it... PPS: "The Silver Bullet" is the current placeholder aside from "The Outback"
  6. I am the computer person, but not so much the car person. Hubby will be helping me in that department. 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon, I think 2.2L but not positive. 160,000 miles. This has all happened in the last 3-4 months I believe. Oil change at a Jiffy Lube or similar in December, antifreeze was low. Car was dead, took to shop and they replaced the alternator with a new alternator. Shortly after, CEL came on and started running rough. Shop said mice chewed on plug wires. Replaced plug wires and plugs. Not sure what brand on those. CEL still coming on, and blinking sometimes. Took back to shop, said 1 plug wire damaged again, just repaired the wire. 2 days ago, ran car cold (in 40 degree weather). On a steep hill shortly after start, lost power and stalled. Gas tank full. Restarted and got to bottom of hill before it died again. Waited a couple minutes, restarted and ran ok but still slightly rough for the next 2 days, plus I think a slight loss of power. Hubby replaced coil. Antifreeze was low again. But no antifreeze in the oil, he says. Just had the code checked, misfire in 3 & 4, which I think has been the code every time. Running basically the same after the coil replacement. I know it's an old car and to expect some of this stuff, but don't want to pour a lot more money into it if it's not going to help. Any suggestions for the next think to check?
  7. Just finished timing belts, water pump, pulleys, new oil seals, brand new vacuum lines, all new bosch ignition, pcv valve, pcv hoses, karropak gaskets on throttle, everything's tightened down!and sealed up, cooling system bled, new thermostat, etc... I checked and got codes 11, 12, 13, 34 & 35. Only had the car about a week, but no engine light before timing belt. Curious about the possibility this is an error as the car runs awesome, idles a little high though (1000-1100 rpms)
  8. HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED. Yesterday, I discovered the green connector for CEL testing has been plugged in forever. i unplugged it, and proceeded to do what I know, in order to read the check engine light. The oxygen monitor showed codes 21(coolant temp sensor), 24(idle air control valve or circuit) and 34(EGR solenoid or circuit). It got dark, so I went inside and proceeded to look online for a replacement IACV gasket, so I can clean it. I also looked at an EGR solenoid and planned on cleaning the EGR today. When I went to start my car this morning, it fired but died immediately, and I knew something was wrong. One more start and die, and without pumping the throttle or having it wide open, the car just cranked and didnt fire. What the heck? So I read the codes again, and nothing had changed. As far as I know the only thing I did was make a red light blink, so i'm a little confused. Is it possible that the car is acting up because the ECU "didnt know" about the bad egr and iacv until i put it in test mode? before having gone inside last night i started the car, and it RAN FINE. Again, what the heck? Does anyone have any ideas? car has always had idle issues, and at one point an ignition coil that arced to the negative ground. ask me questions and i will answer, but so far, thats what i got. Thank you guys in advance. -walker
  9. New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
  10. I need a little help. I have a 92 4wd Loyale Wagon that I need to smog in. Runs great but the CEL is on. Just drove 850 miles and got an average of 34mpg. Hooked the green test cables up on the driver's side in the engine bay and shows a code 34. I jumped the cables at the EGR solenoid, as described in this forum along with disconnecting the battery to clear the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/103456-cel-34-and-35-1990-loyale/?p=1182243 No change, the CEL is still on. Does this mean the ECU is bad?
  11. So, I'm driving home from the store last night and the old check engine light pops on. Then it goes off after about 1 minute. Car is running fine so there's no obvious reason for it. Is there a way to read the codes without having to buy a code reader ? I tried to do a search but no success. This forum does not allow search terms like "CEL" or "code". "Check engine light" returns too many unrelated results.
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