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Found 17 results

  1. My '03 Baja failed inspection for a passenger side front blinker light being out. I replaced the bulb and thought all was good, took car back to have re-inspected but was told the tail lights were out. went to replace the bulbs in rear, but none appeared to be blown so checked the # 5 fuse and that was blown. I replaced that fuse and it blew immediately. checked bulbs again and also checked sockets for corrosion, all appeared fine So I tried Having the front running lights with the sockets not hooked up but back lights fully intact, and the back lights worked. If I then plug in driver side front light socket the fuse doesn't blow, however, if I add a bulb to that socket, or have passenger side socket installed at same time as driver side, the fuse will blow. My question is: Has anyone had this type of issue and how did you resolve it?
  2. Real plate lights both out, bulbs look good, I can't find a fuse/circuit reference anywhere in the manual. Anyone know where this guse is, snd why there is no reference?
  3. Hello all - 1996 Legacy L sedan with 218,000 miles and an IN-CAR head gasket job completed last month (oh my back! ). Car has been running through 2 tanks of gas with no problems. During mile 38 on 40 mile freeway drive at 2:30am, the electrical system on the car suddenly shut down and I coasted the car to a stop on the road shoulder. Hazard blinkers were functional, along with interior lights and power locks. High beams would turn on brightly, but since the headlights/parking lights are tied to the ignition, these were not operable. I could only conduct a few quick checks roadside: - bang on fuel pump - directly since I took the access plate in the trunk off. Done this routine before on several cars . - check tight battery connections - recently cleaned during head gasket replacement last month - this was fine. - timing belt intact - all fuses in engine bay and under dash continuity checked ok - starter cranked the engine, but the engine simply would not start Then the car got towed home the last 2 miles of my intended drive. Fortunately a flatbed tow truck showed up in 10 min via AAA and I was home only 30min after the mess. - I had to help the tow truck driver get into the shifter plate to manually override the shifter interlock so he could put the car in neutral. With the key-On position, the solenoid for the shifter interlock would not move......no elec power going to it. I have since conducted these tests: - battery voltage in good standing is 12.65V - alternator removed, tested and passed - ohmed out coil pack - pass. No burn throughs. - grounds confirmed good - removed and cleaned again anyway - checked all fuses and the main fusible link with ohm-meter - none blown - pulled and checked all engine connector harnesses (bell housing, MAF, igniter, ECM under the passenger floor). - checked continuity on all positions of the ignition switch - pass. Getting 12V to the backside of the switch by probing the solder points. - pulled and cleaned crank and cam position sensors - not much interesting there. Here's the fun part : - none of the warning lights on the dash will light in the Key-On position - this is what I find very disturbing. . - Starter/solenoid happily cranks the engine, but won't start. I have experienced bad start contacts before - this isn't the what is going on here) - cannot read ANY CEL codes because there is no power to the ECU when Key-On - fuel pump will not turn (can't hear a click from the pump relay anyway) - shifter interlock still not operable because of no power going to its solenoid - tied to ignition key-on. I could start changing out crank/cam position sensors, coolant temp sensor, MAF, etc.....but none of these single point items can easily explain why the entire power circuit is not operating. Even if the ECU died, I should still get direct power up to it. In looking at the wiring diagrams, I am thinking the ignition relay (the brown, really-hard-to-reach-one under the dash) might have conked out. This is the only way I can think of that I can still crank the starter, but hot have any electrical controls that drive the fuel pump, the warning lights, and the ECU. I'm going to attempt to get at the ignition relay today to pull and test it - that will take me all morning and lots of scrapes on arms. Any other suggestions are most welcome as I try to figure this out.
  4. Hey, so I've tried searching all around to fix my current issue with my fuel pump not running. The engine cranks over but its not getting any fuel due to the fuel pump not starting. I've pulled the fuel pump out and tested that it's working. Checked the relay and I am pretty sure that its working, it is clicking but still not getting any power to the black/red wire. I was getting power to it for a bit but not exactly sure as I only have a test light that got bright and slowly dimmed out. Could it possibly be just a bad relay that is causing it to not get power or is it shorting out somewhere. I've been wanting to pull out the blower relay to test it with that one but getting to that is a pain and how the weather has been the past couple of days I haven't gotten to it. Also have checked the fuses and those are fine. At this point I'm thinking about just wiring the fuel pump to the battery. Any help with what could be causing this or ideas would be very much appreciated.
  5. So I've been playing around with the FWD fuse in my car, because why not. And it's pretty cool, similar to my Brat where you can activate it on the fly. (I ran wires and a switch into the car from the fuse wire and was able to activate it and disengage it while driving) But I'm very curious as to how it exactly works. The car has an automatic transmission and I understand that the computer engages and disengages a clutch for the rear wheels, and it is the same clutch that controls the power split from front to rear. But where exactly is this clutch? Is it at the back end of the transmission? Can the disc be changed if they were to wear out? Or do you need a new tranny? If anyone has a section from a manual or book that explains how it works technically, that would also be appreciated.
  6. Hello, I have a '92 Loyale FWD 3spd that I love to death. Since it's about to start getting cold (-11 degrees on the worst day) I decided I'd try installing a remote starter as I have direct line-of-site to my car from my living room window. Obligatory pic: The super simple starter box: http://www.compustar.com/product/cs800-s/ I've dealt with wiring quite a bit before, so I consider all of my connections to be solid and well insulated. The problem: The cs800 has 2 separate 12v+ constant wires, both connected directly to the battery. Each wire has a 30a inline fuse. One of these fuses always blows as soon as I attempt a remote start. I am assuming one 12v supplies power to the starter/ign and the other 12v supplies power to the accessories. Troubleshooting: -Cut the remote-start 12v to starter wire, still blows. -Took out EVERY fuse from the fuse panel (even spfi, fuel, etc). At this point all that is drawing power from the device on start is acc, and ignition. -Went back through all my connections and made sure they were good/correct. I'm starting to wonder if my cluster has a short in it because it was the only thing on when I had all the fuses out. My next test was going to be taking out the cluster and unplugging it to see if that helps. Now, not to muddy up the waters even more, but it does seem like my car has had an existing electrical issue since I bought it. It has 12.9v when off and a little over 14v when running which seems ok. HOWEVER if at a stoplight with my blinker on, I can audibly hear and see my dash lights dimming slightly when the blinker clicks on. Also, the heater blower will run faster if I turn off the headlights, etc. I don't think this should be happening with a healthy 14v cruising down the road. Let me know if you have any ideas or further troubleshooting that I can perform. Thanks in advance.
  7. Hello everyone, I recently bought a 97 impreza outback with 210k on the body and a freshly rebuilt engine from a 94 legacy. The key has been stuck in the ignition for the past week which wasnt an issue until I left the lights on and drained the battery enough so it wouldnt start. After finding someone with jumper cables and hooking the car up, he put his leads on backwards and my fusible link fried out. I cant really find any information on a fusible link online but my main question is what the amperage of the fusible link for a 97 impreza outback sport? Just want to go to the auto parts store knowing what I need. Parts Ive found online arent what is in the car.
  8. I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy wagon. Driving, everything fine, then nothing--just died, cranks fine, fire at spark plug, used little gas in intake, fires and tries to start, so fuel problem most likely. Checked fuel pump connector in right rear and power to only right top two connectors--about 5-6 volts and 1 volt, with key in on. Haynes says to check fuel pump fuse first--cannot locate where that fuse is!!! Book says relay is under fuse block on left, (doesn't make sense to have to take off fuse block!) up under dash on sidewall. Will take that and see whether relay is good. Just wondering if anyone knows where a fuse for fuel pump is located! Thanks!
  9. So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
  10. hey guys, I just bought a new loyale. I cant get it to start. the fuel pump is only getting 1.00 at the fuel pump when cranking, and nothing at on. Would this problem be in the ignition switch? thanks
  11. I am attempting a compression test on my 99 Legacy Outback. Only thing I need to figure out before getting started is: Where is the fuse or relay to disconnect my fuel pump? Unfortunately I don't have the Haynes manual for my vehicle. I've searched these forums and online, and been digging around my vehicle, and can't seem to find it. Hoping someone here knows. It isn't in the fuse box behind the battery, nor in the driver's side interior fuse box beneath the dash. No mention of it in the user's manual. I asked a clerk at Advance Auto who owns and works on a 2000 Subaru sedan, and she wasn't able to find it either. On hers, it was in the fuse box behind battery. Sorry for the newbie question; hopefully someone can help! Thanks.
  12. Hello everyone, Nice website you've got here, I finally had to stop lurking and make an account because she stopped running and it was time to ask for help, so here goes: I've got an 86 subaru GL, 300,000+ miles, rebuilt ea82, she's been running really well lately but the other day I started her up on the first try, as usual, just jumped right to life. I drove about 10 feet and stopped at a stop sign and the engine died. Wouldn't start but still turn over. Checked the fuel pump fuse and it was blown, so I replaced it and she started right up again. I drove about 4 blocks and it died again, wouldn't start. Fuel pump fuse was blown again. Replaced the fuse, started up, and died immediately. Fuse was blown again. Subsequently replaced and blew 3 more fuses, without the car running for more than a second, and was then all out of spares and had to get a tow back home. I've been hearing it could be that the fuel pump relay has gone out. My plan was to replace the relay this afternoon and see if that does it, but I could use some information in regards to the location of the fuel pump, or if anyone else has any ideas or solutions it'd be great to her em. Thanks!
  13. Oh, this is a fun one. ('87 GL Wagon) Was on a lunch break at work last week. Decided to hose the dust off the car. Finished up, shut the hose off, looped it on the loopy. Turned around and my tail lights were on. Baffled, I unlocked and opened the driver-side door, peered inside as if I was going to locate the problem, paused, realized... "****!" Long story short, it's been a week and it hasn't rained. If whatever got wet was going to dry out, it would've by now. (The fuse box inside the cabin is dry by the way) I found the fuse within the circuit, so I've been pulling it everytime I park. Now, there is a plethora of custom electrical work on this rig. Meaning, I'm asking for help regarding what it could be though things could be different. Fuse 4 seems to be the guy that stops the non-sense. What, I say what would cause the rear tail lights, as well as the front indicators to stay on, with the car off, keys outta the ignition? Thank you, thank you all in advance. -BR.
  14. I'm posting this one because I found my own answer to an annoying situation and didn't find this same problem listed elsewhere. Hope it helps someone else. Our 2005 Legacy sedan was in at my (previously) trusted oil change place. The battery was 5 years old, at the bottom of the marginal rating, we live in Minnesota and they had a good price on a good battery = new battery. They promised they had the right equipment to keep a small charge so I wouldn't have to reset the ECM. When I started it up, not only were the radio pre-sets gone, I had a rough engine and a solid check engine light - You can guess I wasn't happy. I did the ECM reset, but the check engine light wouldn't clear. I took it to an auto parts place and they couldn't get a reading from the Data Link Connector / ODII. I called my local dealer to get the location of the fuse they might have blown and was told there are no fuses related to the ODII - Bring it in and the will run it through a full diagnostic $$$. Well, I'm not a sucker (there are/should be fuses protecting all electrical equipment) so I spent the evening with the schematics (bought a pdf of the repair manual from subarumanuals on ebay a while back) and traced down some possibilities. MB13 (7.5 fuse in the motor compartment, far right side of the fuse bank, 3rd from the bottom) was blown. Replaced it and all is well. My guess is they ran too much juice through their little gizmo - So my new question is did they have the choice of power settings and mess up or is it unusual for this to be on a little 7.5 amp fuse... Don't know, but their (lack of) response to their screw-up has me back making appointments for oil changes at the local shop.
  15. New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
  16. Hi, I've recently gotten a 2001 Outback Limited Sedan [2.5L AWD, no turbo], and the Cigarette lighter just stopped working. I was right in the middle of inflating my mini-spare with a so-called "Truck-Air" tire compressor. It's just bigger and faster and works better than the micro mini ones you see everywhere. Problem is, it also draws more juice, and I have to run it for 1.5 min. then "rest" for 5, then another 1.5 mins. If I run it longer, the lighter socket fails (yeah, I'm an idiot for forgetting to rest the circuit. HOWEVER, The fuse at the fuse box is ok. I found no burned fuses at the dash fuse box at all. This issue also happened with my '94 legacy 2.2. using the same air compressor. Under a minute duty cycle, it worked fine over and over, but after about 1.75 minutes it stopped and the lighter was dead. My Subaru mechanic guru at the time said something to the effect of "generally, over-drawing the lighter in the non-outback legacies often burns out a wire at the back of the lighter, something 'it's a basic repair', but one that takes considerable time to get at from behind the lighter unit, and he didn't recommend I spend my hard-earned money on it. I did as he suggested & simply added a 3 way accessory adapter and wired it in using a 'piggyback fuse adapter' to an existing 20 amp circuit that wasn't overloaded or critical to anything [airbags etc]. It worked fine. It was easy to get to the front AND behind the box to access the wires. NOT SO in the 2001 Outback. The redesign from '94 to 2001 seems to be intended to make it completely impossible to easily work on any of the wiring [just pull and check mini-fuses] and I can't use the piggyback fuse tap, since the front of the fuse box is butted directly up against the coin tray. There's no room. After realizing that I'd have to take apart much of the dash [neck arthritis] to even get to the back of the fuse box, I decided to try one of those "unused" connectors that one finds hanging about under the dash [NOT the code readers etc]. Usually the loose ones are for options you didn't get, or for other models with the same basic harness. I found 12 volts at one lead, cut stripped it and connected a pigtail 'split off' the wire. I reattached everything and checked for power, and when I did the horn honked for just a nano-second. Didn't think much of it. Looking back, I think [just my luck] I split off what is probably the 'unused' car alarm wiring [i have no car alarm], since everything tested fine for power and ground, BUT when I plugged my ipod charger in to the accessory adapter the car horn started sounding continuously. There HAS to be a better, smarter, easier way to do this. Are there other fuses or relays that could have fried under the load from the air compressor causing only the cig lighter in the car to fail? Everything else in the car works, and all fuses at the box test good. I'd REALLY like to repair the orig. cig lighter, but only IF I don't have to disassemble the entire console and half of the dash, trashing my arthritic neck in the process. Any ideas? I have the Haynes manual for the car, but I've had so many 2.2L Legacies (5) which were easier to work on, I'm a fish out of water here. Suggestions? I don't see any help in the Haynes manual.
  17. Hello everyone. Here's a new weird problem with our 1990 Legacy: We noticed the 4WD fuse was missing. Put one in and the car immediately stopped automatic shifting! Stays in 1st gear no matter what. Doesn't matter if car is in Manual or Auto mode, 1,2,3, or D. Pulled the fuse back out and car went right back to normal shifting. I hope this isn't a sign of a much bigger problem. Thanks in advance for any input you may have! -Andy
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