golucky66

How long did you blip the gas up to 4k rpms? sometimes it can take like 3 or more minutes of doing that to get the air out. But if it is a restricted core, typically you need to replace it. You can try flushing

Yes, air in the cooling system. The heater core is typically the highest point or very closely to it (stupidly enough) on most subarus, and therefore any air in the system collects in the heater core. In my experience, typically a lack of heat only on the passenger size indicates a restricted core, but an air pocket in just the right side of the heater core could have the same symptoms. To see if there's air in the system, warm the car up. Once it's warm, while stopped in park, floor the gas pedal so the RPMs rapidly go up to about 3.5k or so. Then let it come back to an idle. Repeat until heat improves. This will indicate there's air in the system. To tell if it's a restricted core, just hold the RPMs up to like 3.5k steady in park. See if heat returns on the passenger side.

It's only single zone climate correct? Meaning, the driver and passenger cannot have different temperature settings? If so, it can't be a actuator as you have heat on the drivers side, just not on the passenger side. The actuator is working if you have heat on the drivers side. 2 possible issues. There is air in the heater core, or the heater core is restricted.

2012 Outback should have an FB engine, which is a timing chain. If it is a FB engine it does have the oil consumption "issue" that has a extended warranty. IMO. If it does consume oil, just get in the habit of checking it. And I believe on that vehicle it even has a low engine oil light. When it comes on, top off the oil. Very reliable engine besides the consumption.

Where did you hear about the rerun of OEM struts? Any link? Just curious.

I've seen a few Ac compressors around the 2010 age that fail. Either making noise and eventually blow up, or the clutch let's go. I wouldn't be too surprised it it just locked up. Imo, get it fixed by a professional. Doing A.C work the right way isn't for non professionals. Too much or too little oil will cause the new compressor to blow.

I think it's noteworthy that these cars aren't meant to run on E-85.* Just because it can, and might've coincidentally fixed the misfire, doesn't mean you should do that. *on a stock vehicle

On off roaring with any of the new CVTs, the ECM basically cuts power to the wheels for some stupid reason. You can try turning off traction control, but that only helps so much. It's unlikely it's an engine lack of power issue, and more of the computer not letting it be under full load.

I've seen that exact thing on a 15 Outback Limited. I honestly have no idea why it does that or if it's normal or not. All I k ow is that every time that car comes into my shop for an oil change. The screen has that.

Unplug the solenoid and sensor. Remove 4 bolts and it's off. Super simple.

If you're concerned about it, replace the AVLS gasket. Get an OEM one or a metal style aftermarket. 5 bucks or so and it should take you 15 minutes or less. They leak over time.

Wider tires to a point have less traction in snow because there's less weight per square inch on the tire. But just because the rim diameter is bigger doesn't mean the width is. My 18' Limited Crosstrek has 18" rims and the width is nearly exactly the same as the 17"

Did you bypass the heater core yet and drive it?

Bypass the heater core. Restricted heater cores can reduce coolant flow to the back side of the t-stat not allowing it to open.

If you only run the external cooler and not through the radiator it will take the transmission significantly longer to warm up especially on the cold days here in CT. These transmissions don't typically have an issue were they fail due to them being overheated (excluding the SVXs lol) so running an external cooler doesn't really do much but hurt fuel economy due to the increase in warm up time. The transmission fluid going through the radiator actually helps warm up the transmission with the heat transfer from coolant.