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Vehicles

Found 22 results

  1. I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy outback limited and today while turning the vehicle off, as per the norm I shifted to P and turned the car off, the key turned from ON to almost at LOCK and won't turn all the way to LOCK to release the key, I can turn back to ACC, ON and START, but It won't turn to LOCK to release the key. The shifter is able to go through all the gears without having to press the brake pedal, whether the car is on or off. I'm at a loss, can't figure out if it's an electrical or mechanical issue, the tumbler or the shift lock on the shifter. If anyone has come across the same issue any help would be appreciated, i just don't want to start throwing parts at it, thanks.
  2. Hi guys I have an RX impreza with an EJ20. the speedometer died yesterday and i was wondering if someone could help me fins the location and some of the known issues so i can attempt to fix it before taking it to the mechanics. the make according to the compliance plate is: GC8FKFJ. Engine:EJ20ENW6FA any help would be appreciated. Cheers Nate
  3. Hey guys need some guidance here. I own a 99 subaru forester s and the windshield wipers don't work properly. The wipers Park to far both ways so they slam into the edge of the window on both the bottom and side. They do not do this everytime they go up and down but often. And each time they go in their rotation they stop at different points on the windshield. This also only happens when the windshield is wet. If dry the wipers stop normally maybe even a bit not far enough. The more wet the windshield is the more the wipers slap against the edges of the window. Ive already take off the panel to inspect the wiper linkage and cannot find any issues with it. The arms have no issues either and the arms lock into place when bolted on as well. What else could be the issue? Anyone else had similar issues? I'd be very appreciative if someone could share some expertise on this topic and move me in the proper direction to fixing the issue. Thanks
  4. Hey subaru forester community I need some help! I have a 1999 subaru forester s in good condition but I'm recently having some issues with the clutch. I've only had the car for about 8,000 miles and when I bought the car I noticed the catch point was rather high on the car but I didn't notice any signs of the clutch slipping/going out. Recently it seems the clutch is slipping and in need of replacement but i need a proper way to confirm this theory before I dump money into it. I was told that if I can in second gear on a flat road start from a stop with out stalling and with my foot of the gas it ment the clutch was bad. I tried this test and I could in fact get the car rolling rather easy by just slowly releasing the clutch. Not sure if this is valid test though? Additionally I'm curious if it is possible if the high catch point is normal for an oem subaru forester clutch and if its safely adjustable so I can make the catch point almost on the floor either on my current clutch or a replacement. Also how I could do this? Thanks for any help I can get; theese forums rock!
  5. Got a good deal on this 99 legacy, has a 2.2 (hole in the block) and a 4eat. want to go lower (on the cheap), but first i need to find a 2.2 or 2.5 short block for a reasonable price. Not much to see here yet, but it will hopefully have either an n/a frankenmotor or a turbo 2.2 here soon, as well as an option for full manual mode on the 4eat.
  6. I have a 1999 Legacy GT with the 2.5L EJ25D (dohc, phase 1) and I want to swap the heads. Now I know that I'll need new 2.2L heads with dual port so I don't need to change my exhaust, and I've read that you need a new timing belt. (Donor car will likely be 1995 Legacy 2.2L) Now here are the issues: - Do I need to use the 2.2 head cam sprockets or can I use the ones from the 2.5? - Besides the previous question, do I need anything else other than the 2.2 belt for the timing system? - The bolt pattern for the 2.5 manifold I have has bolts in a straight line, however the 2.2 heads I've seen (1995 and older) have diagonal bolts. - Can I use the 2.5l head bolts? I have a new set which I will use. 14mm 12 point. - Is the bolt pattern the same? My current one has 6 bolts, 3 on top behind the top cam, and 3 down low behind the bottom cam. - If the donor engine (2.2L) didn't have HG issues should I still get the heads planed by a machine shop? - Should I get new valves seats/guides/valves/springs or is that overdoing it? Pics are here (2.5l head, block and manifold): http://imgur.com/a/ExhsZ
  7. I am a new member to this forum, but i have a problem that i need help with. I am a fairly knowledgeable shade tree mechanic but by no means am i a pro. when i got this car it had been sitting for over 6 months and had a dead corroded and nasty battery and cables. i didnt want to spend a lot to get it on the road so i cleaned the terminals put a new battery in and changed the oil. the battery terminal recently broke so i cut the cable to change the terminals. the positive was corroded almost 6 inches under the insulation. so i changed the cables that went to the alternator and engine ground. now the car wont stay lit. she will crank and then sputter out. i can keep her going with the gas pedal but she is slow to respond and then races. i dont think i did anything...... please help me with my baby
  8. Just bought a 99 LGT and am looking to lift it. I know I have to throw on outback struts, but I don't know if I should be doing the same year or a different one
  9. What size tires can I put on a 99 LGT lifted with 99 outback struts? And what could I fit with struts and Springs from the same model?
  10. Legacy EJ25D 2.5L DOHC. Engine began running rough and idling rough a few weeks back, CEL diagnostic codes said cylinder 1 & 3 misfire. Diagnosed with a compression test. Cylinders 1 and 3 were getting 90 and 80 psi respectively. Cylinders 2 and 4 were 190 and 180 respectively. I just put the timing belt back on and re-checked compression on the right side. Cylinder 1 is now getting 210 psi, but Cylinder 3 is only getting 60. (Note---I did this before the engine was all back together, so I didn't idle it beforehand and the compression test was run on a cold engine.) I'm pretty sure I got back the power I was lacking when the timing belt slipped. Just took it for a spin and it feels about the same as I recall it in terms of acceleration. So, it's possible that cylinder has been underperforming for some time... Now that I have the results of a compression test and verified timing is like new again, is there anything further I can do without getting into expensive territory (valve work... piston rings etc.)? This is an old car (228k miles).
  11. I pulled the crankshaft sprocket off of my 1999 Legacy (2.5L). It was a bear of a job and required a lot of prying. At one point I got careless and had my prybar applying pressure directly to the back of one of the tabs on the rear side of the sprocket---it snapped off. Here's a photo: I assume these tabs are used by the proximity sensor to tell the computer the crankshaft's position. Therefore I assume I must replace the part. But before I order it, I wanted to verify with the experts here. Can I get away with not replacing it? Thanks!
  12. I have a 1999 legacy 30 year limited edition gt sedan I need the plastic side skirt for the drivers side of the vehicle 1) I assume the 1995 thru 1999 model years exchange 2) do the wagon and sedan side skirts exchange with each other? 3) I believe the legacy gt and limited 30th anniversary are essentially the same Beyond that wish me luck finding one in Washington state junkyard.
  13. I am attempting a compression test on my 99 Legacy Outback. Only thing I need to figure out before getting started is: Where is the fuse or relay to disconnect my fuel pump? Unfortunately I don't have the Haynes manual for my vehicle. I've searched these forums and online, and been digging around my vehicle, and can't seem to find it. Hoping someone here knows. It isn't in the fuse box behind the battery, nor in the driver's side interior fuse box beneath the dash. No mention of it in the user's manual. I asked a clerk at Advance Auto who owns and works on a 2000 Subaru sedan, and she wasn't able to find it either. On hers, it was in the fuse box behind battery. Sorry for the newbie question; hopefully someone can help! Thanks.
  14. So my legacy should be getting around 20 mpg city but is only getting about 15. It also has the slight smell of gas when you start it first thing in the morning but that goes away after you start driving. I looked around and the most likely suggestion was a bad o2 sensor. What do you all think of this diagnosis or any other ideas? I can answer any questions to help out.
  15. Ok so this is probably been answered someplace unknown to me. I have a 1999 Subaru legacy outback SUS EJ25D with the 8 bolt bell housing hookup. I continue to run into people saying that car is type specific as far as engines go. what are my options? can I use a JDM 4 bolt EJ25D or EJ22 because I cant seem to find a 25 that's not high miles and very expensive 1300$ was the best I could find. I am interested in these 4 bolt JDM motors. will they work Plug and Play with my 99 SUS? Thanks all this is the JDM I would like to use
  16. Hi, my 1999 Legacy SUS was recently totaled and I'm in dispute with the insurance company but perhaps I'm wrong and am hoping one of you good folks can help shed some light on the subject as google has NOT. I thought my vehicle was of the limited edition ilk and the vehicle was was repaired (body work) prior to my purchase several years ago. My question is this, "how can I tell for sure if my SUS was a standard edition or a limited edition"? Here's what it has: hood w scoop rear spoiler gold and silver wheels heated seats leather walnut interior trim around gear shift, stereo, door panels CD Sliding sun roof Power windows and door locks Keyless Entry ABS
  17. So a little while ago I was having idling issues on my legacy and it would stall out on occasion. However it I found out there was a rubber plug missing on the casing for one of the air filters, I sealed the hole (why they put the hole there in the first place I don't know) and it stop stalling and now works fine, however it still bothers me that it idles really low, only about 200 rpm, and somewhat rough too when the engine warms up. It doesn't cause any issues however its clearly to low, so im thinking about cleaning the idle air controller (there's about 172k miles on the car) and sooner or later getting new plugs and tips for i, will this up the idle and make it smoother? any other suggestions?
  18. So i bought this car last weekend and there were no problems with it. it sat for a few days while it waited to get registered. I drove it a little the day it got registered and the next day it started having problems. It drives great with 172,xxx miles on it but it has a really slow rough idle. it idles between 200 and 250 rpm and the interior and dash lights flicker and it shakes. it has stalled out twice at red lights but i had no problem starting it up again. PLEASE HELP. I have no idea whats wrong with it but I have very little money to spend on fixing it. All input is appreciated im feeling like this right now.
  19. Howdy. We have a 1999 Legacy Outback in overall good working order (it has a rebuilt motor less than 3 years old which runs great). When I depress the lever and engage the cruise control - the car goes into cruise control, but slows 4 to 6 miles per hour, depending on the overall speed. It will then hold that speed just fine. To cruise at 65 mph, I would have to engage it at 70 or 71 to allow for the slow down. It is bothersome to say the least. Is this going to be a computer problem, electrical, or more mechanical - like a bad CC unit in the steering column ? Any other ideas would be great. Is this something a garage can electronically diagnose? Thanks, Craig
  20. Ok I'm lost again. My husband and the subaru dealer said my car was acting fine now that they reset the computer. I drive it for about 5 hrs afterwards and the engine light turns on and we're having the same problem again. Guess the throttle position sensor didn't work. Here's what it's doing.... when I stop... sometimes not all times... I can depress the gas and no matter how much I push the pedal it will pull out at around 5mph. When it really acted up I even tried flooring it and the car crawls away 5mph then all of a sudden it acts like the gas kicks in or the engine realizes that I'm accelerating and it jumps. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Haven't run the codes yet but I will asap and keep you posted.
  21. I just picked up a '99 Forester L with a 4EAT for my wife. This is our 2nd Subi, we used to have a '99 Outback with a 4EAT. It didn't do this. When in 4th and then accelerating enough to cause a kickdown to pass, the transmission has a violent kickdown. It feels as if you got rear ended. RPMs increase substantially after pressing the accelerator before the kickdown, at high throttle, resulting in the violent kickdown. I've adjusted the TPS, drained pan (fluid was clean and not burnt), replaced filter, refilled, no change. The ATF Temp light isn't on and I have not been able to pull any codes from it. The car shifts fine under all other circumstances. Any ideas?
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