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Found 20 results

  1. A couple of days ago I picked up a 1998 Forester, the main issue I am concerned with is a knocking sound in the engine. I think the knocking sound is a lifter. It is a small hammer tapping type sound. If the car is idling in neutral and I increase the rpm's a bit, the tapping normally stops. But if I am driving around town, just normal easy driving, the tapping stays. Under load 20-25 on a steep hill, level ground 20-35+, going downhill, etc, it seems to stay pretty much the same other than the tempo changing with rpm's. I keep thinking it sounds like a sticky lifter. A rod bearing should get louder under load? and a wrist pin quieter under load? If I remember correctly. I have looked up videos and they show the timing belt tensioner gone bad making a rattle, but this is not a rattle, it is a definite tapping that is in tune with the rpm's of the engine. The engine has 246,000 miles on it. I am considering pulling it and rebuilding it. Any opinions appreciated, Thanks.
  2. Hey There! My names Happy. I am a suburu lover with little mechanical skill asking some navigating questions. BASIC STORY: My car crashed, 98 Legacy L, 218,000 miles EJ22 Automatic tranny Needed too much maintenance on top of the raidiator and body work (new brakes, axle boot....more), though the engine and core components seemed fine. Sold it, eventually letting it go to good people for $400. Engine and Tranny seem great. My friend has a 98 Outback, 260,000 EJ25 Manual tranny As I read is common to those, he has burnt valves (not sure which). He's selling the car. Pretty good shape, needs a starter soon, clutch soon maybe. Big story summed up in a few words: these cars have history together, I got the one partially because I liked my friend's, they are the same color, there is some special spirituality stories that go with each of them them and make them like soul mates (long trippy story), and even my buyers had a link in the tale. TURNS OUT, the people that bought my car goofed and needed a different engine. They are waiting to sell it or part it. I believe my EJ22 can go in the 98 outback in place of EJ25. My basic navigating questions: Possible? Practical with those mileage levels? Any random things that might discourage me from trying to make that happen? If you could be hired to do that job, what would you estimate the labor charge? Thank you for your time :-)
  3. Planning on buying an outback this saturday, and have a couple questions 1. Do strut blocks have to be angled on EJ cars like with the EA cars? Looking to do probably 4 inches. I've seen some camber bolts from eibach that offer up to 1.75* of adjustment. Would that be enough? 2. Have any of you guys clearanced your bumpers on an outback? I'm looking to do something like on the GC imprezas where you cut off the lower half. Looking to see some pictures before I start cutting. I was also debating trying to find a legacy bumper that would look good chopped, as I've heard legacy and outback bumpers will swap. Thanks - CL
  4. Hey all, Recently I've been considering getting a hitch for my car, a 98 legacy outback. It may sound stupid, but I want one for the sole purpose of having a spare tire carrier on the back of the car (cause off-road, brah) so it doesn't need to be wired or haul anything more than a forester steelie. My only worry is, and I'm hoping someone has experience with this, are there hitches out there that don't require drilling, but does anyone know if those claims are true? I've only seen one or two of these cars with a hitch. Also, mine is a late build 98, so the charcoal canister is right on the rear frame like a 99. Would this interfere? Thanks! EDIT: and how trustworthy is UHAUL? I work in a shop and have seen more than one horrific, scary, poor quality, and downright dangerous trailer wiring job done by them, but can they just put a hitch on for me if it requires drilling or something?
  5. So... My brother has a 98 Legacy, I believe its an EJ25. Bare with me, there is a lot of random symptoms/info here. Occasionally it overheats, so I looked at it. Its spitting out trouble codes P0480 and P0483, which are both fan related. Fans seem to work fine, while watching them. With my scanner, I watched the temp rise (the defrost was on), the fans (and ac compressor) would come on for about 30 sec then turn off. And the temp continued to rise. At 215F I turned off the defrost and the temp returned to 185F. What? Thermostat opened? Extra load eliminated? Weird thing is, when its running hot the coolant doesn't 'seem' to be flowing... Top radiator hose hot, low cold. I can open the radiator cap even when hot, which seems no pressure. I can put my finger in the coolant and its merely cool or lukewarm. Haven't drained to check thermostat, but he says it was replaced 'last time.' Radiator cep he hasn't replaced. So... (In order of my personal unprofessional opinion and economical preference)... Rad cap? Clogged radiator? Failed pump? Thermostat? Head gaskets... I have but didnt use a compression/head tester due to the apparent lack of coolant flow. But theres no bubbles in the coolant reservoir. I dont thinknot will tell me anything. All input appreciated. Thanks all.
  6. So there is a recent ticking noise coming from under car whenever i let off of the gas. As soon as i give it the slightest amount of throttle, the noise stops, but right when i let off the gas the ticking noise returns. Especially when in lower gears. It may have something to do with going over small rocks and hitting under neath while driving in the hills, but i have no clue what the noise could be. I heard that it could be the heat shield, but i removed most of it earlier due to annoying rattle noise. Noise does not occur when just parked in neutral. Please help! Thanks, Austin
  7. I drive a 1998 Forester I've had it throw codes quite a few times now. First time, a month ago, there was a lot of lurching, it was repeated misfires. Got sparkplugs changed (went with NGKs) and new plug wires as well. Ran nicely after. I had it diagnosed at an autozone, so while I think it was 3 and 4 misfiring, I didn't get a look at the exact diagnosis so I'm not 100% sure. Second time, used my OBD II reader, 3 & 4 misfires. Had them pretty consistently, swapped the coil pack. They seemed to stop. The engine threw the same cylinder 3 and 4 misfire codes on the way home today. I've heard from friends that injectors seem unlikely since the misfires wouldn't be this random if that were the issue. Not all that sure where to go next. MAP sensor or vacuum leak? Possibly irrelevant facts: 1. Swapped my clockspring last night. Successful. Airbag light is off and horn and cruise work again. 2. Driving (or trying to drive) from Ogden, Utah to Oshkosh, Wisconsin in 3 days. Joy.
  8. My 98 Legacy has a constant ringing noise coming from the engine, which becomes louder as the RPMs rise. I've attached a video of the noise at idle; I suspect it is from the pulleys, but I'd like a second opinion. is the video.
  9. I'm new to this board, but I'm on several other ones. I need to know the answers to this problem quickly, please help! I'm doing the head gaskets on my 1998 Legacy Outback EJ25 DOHC. I've rounded off several of the cam cap bolts on the passenger side head because the metal is very soft. 1. How can I remove these bolts without getting metal shavings in my head? 2. What can I do to prevent having the same problem on the other head? Thanks in advance.
  10. Hey folks, I just got a 1998 forester 2.5 4AT for free. I drove it around for about a week and heard about head gasket problems, sure enough when I looked in the coolant bottle I found this 80% Oil 20% Coolant Premix. I just want a confirmation from you Subaru Professionals that this is indeed a bad head gasket/gaskets. there is no visible leak on the head-block mating surface but there is an Oil leak on the VC-Head surface. This Subie has over 260k miles on it so far, what can I expect from it? Thanks for the help folks.
  11. I have a 1998 Outback wagon, 2.5L, 157K miles. My CEL is indicating P0325 so I ordered a replacement knock sensor. I removed the old one (housing is cracked), installed the new one, turned the key, and...just a click (the single starter click). The new sensor is oriented correctly -- it's not resting on the hump -- and is not overtightened. I removed the sensor, reinstalled the old one (the car did run with it, just had hesitation during acceleration), and...same problem...just a click. I measured both sensors on my multimeter using the "2000k" ohm setting. The old sensor reads 553 and the new one reads 552. What the heck could be wrong? There doesn't appear to be any corrosion on the engine where the sensor bolts down. I checked all nearby connectors and nothing is loose or disconnected. I even removed the negative battery cable for 10+ minutes to make sure everything is reset...no change. The car just won't start. Could I have blown a fuse? Which one? I'm really at a loss here...
  12. Here is a video I did after I figured out how to do all of this. Enjoy! Hope it helped!
  13. I was wondering if I can swap the interior from a 1998 Legacy Brighton into a 1998 Legacy Outback? The Brighton is a parts car and I want to swap the seats and maybe other interior pieces because the interior in the Outback is 1) Leather, 2) Ripped. Either way, I cannot stand leather and want to do the swaps. Will the brackets and seats fit right in? Thanks in advance!
  14. I have a 1999 legacy 30 year limited edition gt sedan I need the plastic side skirt for the drivers side of the vehicle 1) I assume the 1995 thru 1999 model years exchange 2) do the wagon and sedan side skirts exchange with each other? 3) I believe the legacy gt and limited 30th anniversary are essentially the same Beyond that wish me luck finding one in Washington state junkyard.
  15. I need to know if I can put a 97 forester transmission in my 98 forester? They are both AWD Auto transmissions.
  16. http://www.performancechipsdirect.com/ Does anyone one have any experience with this chip^^^^ or ever heard anything about them? Or does anyone know of a good tuner chip for my 1998 Impreza?
  17. Just purchased a beautiful 1998 Outback Legacy. One of the small details I dislike about it is the wood trim pieces. Any thoughts? Replacement? Swap?
  18. I have a 1998 Impreza that I'm thinking about buying, it only has 86,xxx miles on it with the 2.2L, The question I have is If I get it I was going to do the timing belt, water pump and tennioners on it since it's close to that 90,000 mark and with it being an interference engine I rather be safe then sorry.. Anyhow I was wondering since I have it apart should I do the head gaskets, or just leave them alone and run her
  19. Hi all, My 1996 Subaru Legacy GT had been through a crash but no damage to the Engine at all. So i decided to buy a 1998 legacy GTB body, so i could put my engine into that. I have got that done and now im down to the last couplie parts which is getting the timing done, and getting this ECU put in and hoping for the best that its gonna work. So my question is do i put the 1996 ECU chip in ? or the 1998 ECu chip in? because im getting it done as a home job. & unfortunatley the people doing it aint quite sure themselves. I hope someone can help me here , and also which is for which i have a chip that is black stickered with 87 on it and i dont know which MOdel its from, and ive been looking on line for 98 ecu's and their saying the 4g one is for that so im stuck. Also is it possible to do this? i have heard the car go before with the engine in but it didnt go for long, the coils and the ECU burnout, but its been soo long since ive looked at the car i have forgotten which one burnout. Both the cars are manual and the engine is a standard twin turbo engine that you get lol, even like wiring and stuff would some1 be able to help me there to do i put the 98 wiring in or the 96 wiring in. Some 1 please help thanks Cheerz
  20. Bought a '98 Subaru in September of 2012 for its superior gas mileage, AWD, spacious interior, and rumored reliability. Three months later, the head gaskets blew while I was on the road, 900 miles from home where I could fix it myself. Cost $2,000 to replace head gaskets, radiator, everything. The day after the repair, the manual tranny died.Towed it home and discovered that the problem is the actual transmission, not the clutch or the flywheel or linkages or fork. Nope, definitely the transmission. I am poor and this car has put me into debt. Any suggestions on what to do with it that will help me regain that $2,000 I spent on all the new engine parts?
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