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Knowing the EZ30R has an extra 20kW on the EZ30D in my car, I’ve always been interested in the cam specs. Especially with the AVLS system. I wasn't sure if the low lift profiles support the majority of the driving range, allowing a 'hot' high lift profile, or if there was some other strategy going on. After picking up some cams some years ago, I have finally I have had the opportunity to measure them. I also measured the cams for an EZ30D and an EJ255 WRX (2006) for a comparison. All cams are from Australian delivered models, EZ30D cams are from a junk engine I got years ago, probably 2002. The EJ255 are from a 2006 WRX with 'V25B' heads, we just happened to have some, and the EZ30R cams I have since found are 'Phase 1' or 'Pre facelift'. MEASUREMENTS Engine Cam Clearance Gross Lift Net Lift Factory Spec At 1 mm Lift At 0.050" Lift Open Close Duration At Lift Open Close Duration Open Close Duration EJ255 Inlet 0.20 9.60 9.40 5 BTDC 55 ABDC 240 0.218 -102.23 103.80 206.03 -99.93 101.25 201.18 Exhaust 0.35 9.80 9.45 55 BBDC 5 ATDC 240 0.172 -104.64 103.80 208.44 -102.28 101.36 203.64 EZ30D Inlet 0.20 9.78 9.58 5 BTDC 55 ABDC 240 0.239 -105.30 105.96 211.26 -102.99 103.50 206.49 Exhaust 0.25 9.29 9.04 52 BBDC 0 ATDC 232 0.171 -101.42 101.17 202.59 -99.10 98.79 197.89 EZ30R Inlet HL 0.43 10.12 9.69 22 BTDC 48 ABDC 250 0.255 -107.18 108.18 215.36 -104.11 104.83 208.93 Inlet LL L 0.20 3.13 2.93 N/A N/A 147 0.246 -54.07 53.72 107.79 -49.76 49.35 99.12 Inlet LL H 0.20 6.32 6.12 N/A N/A 218 0.245 -89.26 88.61 177.88 -85.55 84.65 170.20 Exhaust 0.35 9.70 9.35 60 BBDC 6 ATDC 246 0.177 -107.82 107.47 215.29 -105.44 105.03 210.47 AVLS https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Switching_tappet_for_SUBARU_EZ30_(INA).jpg The AVLS system in the EZ30R engine is a direct acting system with an innovative concentric split follower. For each valve there are a set out outer high lift lobes and an inner low lift lobe on the cam shaft. The inner lobe runs on the inner section of the follower and the high lift lobes run on the outer section of the follower. The inner section of the fowler acts directly on the valve stem and when the system is not engaged the outer section is free to slide along the axis of the valve. When engaged, oil pressure moves a pin across that locks the outer section of the follower to the inner section and the valve then follows the high lift profile. The follower has a curved surface, with the flat axis parallel to the cam centreline. The cross section of the surface was measured to be an arc, and there is a different radius used for the inner and outer sections. The inner section was measured to have a 43mm radius and the outer section was measured to have a 52mm radius. The inner section of the follower protrudes slightly. The lobes seem like they have a slightly different base circle diameter as well. 32mm vs 32.5mm. This still leads to the high lift lobe having more clearance. During an engine build, the valve clearance is set on the low lobe, and the high lift clearance is not adjustable. To measure valve motion for the EZ30R ALVS lobes a flat follower was used and then a correction was applied to account for the curved follower. SERVICE MANUAL SPECIFIED DURATION The valve timing specifications given in the service manuals appear to be with respect to the corners of the profile ramps. The ramps end at very low lift levels and so in a practical sense, the factory open and close angles can be described as the start and end of any visible movement of the valve when viewed from above. It also roughly aligns with the peak acceleration and deceleration events. When specifying the factory specs in terms of a check lift, the non symmetrical size of the ramps makes it a little misleading. The lead-out ramp is longer that the take-up ramp. None the less, the check lift for intake cams appears to be around 0.25mm and the exhaust cams 0.17mm. The lower peak acceleration of the EZ30R cams (discussed later) seems to exaggerate the duration stated in the service manual. SPECIFICATIONS AT 1mm LIFT Aftermarket cam manufacturers tend to spec cam duration at a higher check lift, 0.050” or 1mm being common. At these levels of lift the valve has been past the ramps and through most of the acceleration phase of the profile, leaving what I'll call the bulk lift phase within the duration measurement. While the ramps and the acceleration phase can vary between cams, the bulk lift phase tends to be close to harmonic motion, which minimises required valve spring force and high frequency vibrations. SPECIFICATIONS AT 0.050" LIFT

Replacing the head gaskets on my 92 Loyale. Engine is removed, stripped down, cylinders are removed and on the work bench. A couple of questions as I progress....... 1. On the cam tower I have read to ensure the use of the metal reinforced O'rings on the cam tower (P/N 13089AA010). Is it just one O'ring per tower? 2. Looking at the Miles Fox video (#21) it shows a large O'ring for the whole cam tower being covered with Permatex grey. Is that O'ring purchased or made? Special material? 3. Are the alignment pins on the cylinders and block removable? Removing them would make it easier to clean the surfaces for the new head gasket. Should I remove them? Suggested technique for removal? 4. Seven Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLA's) spin freely by hand, while one is different (spins real hard, sticky, feels like metal to metal contact when it is turned). Seems like it needs replaced. Suggested technique for removal of this Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (HLA)? Can I replace just one? Happy Independence Day! Bill

Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help!

I have a 2008 impreza, 2.5i, SOHC. I just replaced the blown motor with a used motor with 60,000 miles on it. Replaced all the timing components except for the cam gears. When I tried to start the car, the motor wouldn't turn on it's own. From what I've been told, the camshaft position sensor communicates with the raised bars on the back of the left side cam gear which come in 2 bar, and 7 bar varieties. My question is, how do you tell what kind of cam gear you need for the car to start? I don't have the original motor anymore as it was turned in for a core refund after we transferred over all of the accessories. Any other applicable advice is welcome and I can provide more info about the car as needed. Thanks in advance! - Bryan

All: So I got the motor pulled yesterday!!! Thanks to everyone for all the help and great threads. Now the adventure begins. Clutch, oil sep plate, cam seals all on the list. I cannot find any thread on how to replace the drivers side rear cam seal. Anyone have any advice? Part numbers? 1995 Subaru Legacy L. EJ22. Not sure if leaking...or just spray from the valve cover leak...but planning to replace as many seals as I can while I have the motor out. Thanks, Tom

I'm new to this board, but I'm on several other ones. I need to know the answers to this problem quickly, please help! I'm doing the head gaskets on my 1998 Legacy Outback EJ25 DOHC. I've rounded off several of the cam cap bolts on the passenger side head because the metal is very soft. 1. How can I remove these bolts without getting metal shavings in my head? 2. What can I do to prevent having the same problem on the other head? Thanks in advance.

Hi Any help would be much appreciated. I have been trying to get this car going again. I have a 87 Subaru GL 1.8L ea82 carburetor engine Manual Transmission. I am doing a timing belt replacement. Plus, I decided to change the cam and crank seals at the same time. I was following the basic Chiltons book while doing the change. I removed the old belt in the initial part of the change. Now as I am putting things back on, and ready to put on the new timing belt, I am reading to have the cam sprockets positioned differently then they are. On the Driver side my Cam sprocket is DOWN. On the Passenger side my Cam sprocket is UP. Now that I have the timing belts off, how do I move my cams to the proper position to finish belt install? I'm nervous about how they should be correctly moved, all instructions simply say line it up with no in-depth details on how. Here is the DRIVER CAM with hole DOWN: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/photo1.jpg.html Here is the PASSENGER CAM with hole UP: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/passcam.jpg.html

I think I am almost there to getting this 1992 Loyale back up and running. I had diagnosed this engine as a broken timing belt and it was. The Driver side belt was majorly broken. However, I got the new belts on and the timing seemed to be weird and I can't get it to fire up. The pass. sides seems like it is firing but the driver side is not. It's getting spark and fuel and compression. but no combustion. Per Chiltons guide I lined up the dots to the top of the timing backing and the crank sproket dot up as well. but the driver side 2/4 is fouled by fuel, well cylinder 2 is. I didn't check c4. Compression is abour 150 psi and holds. (no leakage) Chilton siad something about applying pressure while setting the timing belt, but if I did that then it would not be on it's mark. So is there anyone out there that has done this repair and knows the exact thing to do to make sure this thing is in time? I've made sure that the engine was at TDC beore I aligned the cams. Thanks for your assistance! -Mike