wm_reed

The check valve retainer cap had become separated from the piston. I cleaned it and put it back together.

Once the lifters showed up from Mizpah I learned how easy they are to take apart to clean and inspect. I did so and fixed the one that was giving me problems.

Will the Escort Seats fit a Loyale as well? What model year Escorts?

Rockers do have the "line" worn on them. I intend to leave them as is. I have refurbished lifters coming from Mizpah. Once I have the lifters in hand I will remove the others from the head.

Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate the help Dave T and Mr. Loyale.

Replacing the head gaskets on my 92 Loyale. Engine is removed, stripped down, cylinders are removed and on the work bench. A couple of questions as I progress....... 1. On the cam tower I have read to ensure the use of the metal reinforced O'rings on the cam tower (P/N 13089AA010). Is it just one O'ring per tower? 2. Looking at the Miles Fox video (#21) it shows a large O'ring for the whole cam tower being covered with Permatex grey. Is that O'ring purchased or made? Special material? 3. Are the alignment pins on the cylinders and block removable? Removing them would make it easier to clean the surfaces for the new head gasket. Should I remove them? Suggested technique for removal? 4. Seven Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLA's) spin freely by hand, while one is different (spins real hard, sticky, feels like metal to metal contact when it is turned). Seems like it needs replaced. Suggested technique for removal of this Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (HLA)? Can I replace just one? Happy Independence Day! Bill

Based on suggestions................... 1. Using a hand held vacuum pump I proved no vac leaks between the intake manifold and the off button on the heater controls. 2. Proved that the check valve in the vac tank was shot. Added an in line vac check valve ($5 at Napa) upstream of the vac tank. 3. Tested again - I can hear a vac leak in the dash near the Heater Control pushbuttons. The leak is intermittent and is gone sometimes after the car has been driven (car cabin hot). The vac leak is the worst when the defrost pushbutton is depressed. Seems to be gone when heat is depressed. **The added in line check valve did make a difference during this test (when accellerating the heat did remain where selected)** 4. Removed and inspected 4 Vac lines that connect to the back of the heater controls. They were all intact. Applied Vac to each line going to vac motors proving what was what and no leaks. Hoses are labeled: #1 - goes to floor #2 - goes to Defrost #3 - is the vac line coming from the intake manifold #4 - goes to the Recirc Based on my findings, The vacuum leak seems internal to the Heater Controller pushbuttons. I don't know why the change in the vac leaks when everything warms up, but that is what seems to happen. Until I can find a working Heater Controller I have plumbed the 4 vac lines to an access below the ignition switch and will jumper the vac line I need so we can put the heat where it is needed, when it is needed.

Mine is identical. Appears original.

Newer owner of 92 Loyale Sedan (2WD, 1.8L, SPFI), Vacuum operated climate controls. 1st heating season: Heat blows out of main vents only until vehicle is driven for ~15 minutes. The pushbutton controls will then start working for defrost or floor (as selected). Car seems very sensitive to slight acceleration where it will then cause the heat to blow out the main vents until you come way out of the gas. This doesn't seem right! I have already confirmed with a hand pump that the actuators work fine. How much vacuum is normal at the Heater switches? Is this a Vacuum Tank issue? Vacuum Leak? Bad pushbutton controls? How do I get the air to blow where I need it when I need it?? Suggestions/ideas are appreciated???

How many mounts total support the engine (EA82) and automatic tansmission (3AT) in my 92 Loyale Sedan? I am new to the game also!

Most of the auto parts stores on line (Auto parts warehouse, rock auto, etc) have a kit for the oil pump (kit includes: Mickey Mouse o-ring, pump seal, and body o-ring). I suggest using grease to hold the Mickey o-ring in place while installing. Cost is about $12. Napa sell it all seperately.

I just purchased a 92 Loyale for $700. 4 door sedan, front wheel drive. Only 85K miles. Just replaced waterpump, cam seals, front crank seal, resealed oil pump, and replaced one CV Axle. This forum has been an awesome help! I need further help with adjusting the timing and with a Check Engine Code. The book says to hook the green conectors together before adjusting timing. The only green connector I found is near the firewall by the brake fluid (nothing under the dash by the fuse box). Is this the correct green connector to connect together? The book also tells me that the "Check Engine light" will illuminate. Unfortunaltely mine is already illuminated (flashing a "34" code - EGR). When I connect the green connector the "Check Engine" light extinguishes. Any further advice would be appreciated.

Thanks for the advice on manuals. I found the Haynes 1600/1800 on line at Rock Auto for $10 with shipping. The PDFs for the 89 were on line at some guy who uses the EA82 engine in his airplanes. Really appreciate the support. As the new owner I am gathering info to do the Timing belt and other work under the belt covers. Major oil leak forcing the effort. 1/2 quart of oil in 7 miles! Good news is the Loyale is rust free and only has 86,000 Miles. Purchased from the original owner who stopped driving at 92.

Thanks all! Newbie here with a 92 Loyale Sedan. Will be using this code list tomorrow. Any suggestions on getting the correct Repair Manual for this car. Napa and Autozone suggest the Haynes Repair Manual titled "1600 and 1800". I found some good PDF's of the EA82 engine already. Would like something for repairing the car as well. Esspecially electrical.