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Found 8 results

  1. It’s kind of crazy to think how long I’ve been in the Subaru game and yet I’ve never replaced a 2.5 head gasket! I only want to deal with this repair once, hence this thread: I was under my wife’s 1999 Forester for an oil change over the weekend and noticed the bottom of the driver’s side of the engine was COVERED with engine oil. I had long suspected that it was the cam seal leaking, but the volume of oil and the area it covered has been slowly growing over the last few oil changes. A little research revealed that the EJ253 in this Forester likes to pop its head gasket and then leaks oil externally, which correlates with what I’m seeing. We lose about 1-2 quarts of oil between changes (I top it up often) but the engine doesn’t appear to burn any oil (no smoke out the tailpipe, hot or cold). The head gaskets were originally replaced at 78k miles (w/ P/N 11044AA633 head gaskets) and the engine now has about 205k miles on it now. We’re past due for a timing belt as well, so here is the list of parts that we’ve got so far: Timing Belt Parts: Timing belt Tensioner/idlers Crank pulley bolt Water pump & gasket Thermostat & gasket Cam seals F/R Crank seals A/C idler pulley Oil pump reseal/O-ring kit I’ve been doing a bunch of research on what else I should touch “while I’m in there.” In past posts @GeneralDisorder has suggested changing out the piston rings, installing knurled pistons and upgrading to a 10 mm oil pump. I will have the heads milled (if still in spec) but what else should I consider? Valvetrain work? Is there anything I can do to help oil drain back to keep the pistons from getting clogged? Head Gasket Parts: 770 head gaskets Exhaust manifold gaskets Intake manifold gaskets Valve cover gaskets Valve seals (int. & exh.) (I’ve read that the SOHC engines have a tendency to drop exhaust valve guides and that these should be knurled to keep them from dropping?) Sparkplug tube seals Valve cover bolt grommets Misc. Parts: Spark plugs Spark plug wires 10mm oil pump PCV valve Knock Sensor (original is cracked) Battery cables/tie down/j-bolts (battery terminals/tie down are fuzzy and have read this is a potential cause of driver’s side gasket failures) So, flame suit on, please let me know what you think of my parts list! Are there obvious omissions? Are there parts I could swap in for little expense that will help power/longevity (such as uprated camshafts, pistons, etc.?) Note, this isn’t a performance build, so I’m not thinking about forged, high-compression pistons or anything, but if there is an OEM piston that I could swap in that would provide a slight performance advantage, I would be interested in something like that, or Delta Cams, etc. How far away from a Frakenmotor would I be? Would an STI oil pan be something to install?
  2. Hi all, Does anyone know if there is a difference between the crankshaft sprocket for a 00/01 EJ251 and a '97-98' EJ25D? I'm trying to diagnose some engine-performance issues and will be looking at my timing soon enough... I have a EJ 251 block mated with the heads from a EJ 25D. The crankshaft sprocket came from the 251, and the cams are for the 25D heads. I read on here that there may be differences between A/T and M/T sprockets of the same block, and I do not know which transmission this block was mated to. According to opposedforces.com, and an online subaru dealer parts page, the sprocket is the same between the 25D and SOHC blocks. Just wondering if anyone knows of a difference. Issues at hand include odd imbalance/vibrations between 1800 and 2500 rpm. Feels like there's a cylinder not firing. Smoke test, and leak-down test are in order, hopefully next weekend after finals. Take care, Greg
  3. Hi all, I'll most likely be purchasing a forester (2006-2008) or OBW (2005-2009) soon from an auto-auction. 5-speed much preferred. Plan is to spend about $500-$750 for something with decent interior, okay exterior, and something under 150k miles. Right now, I'm assuming that anything I get will have leaking Headgasket(s), and will have been run low on oil. Some of the auction sites have videos of the motors running, and they often have rod-knock. I need a dependable vehicle for the next 5 years, and I'm also pretty broke being in grad school. I can only afford something in the $5k-6k range, and everything I find is hyper-mileage and/or : leaking HGs, bad power steering pumps, leaking rocker covers, etc. AND people don't want less than they're asking. Just looked at an '06 Baja with 180k on it... guy said it was mint. They wanted $7k for 4 miss-matched bald tires, air-filled ps pump, leaking HG, leaking rear main, +1 quart overfilled oil, and a sticker over the check engine light that said (and I'm not joking) "Prayer helps". I don't want to be doing a lot of time-consuming general maintenance while I travel to/from my clinical observations, so I'm considering purchasing a JDM-imported engine, a remanufactured engine, or an oem subaru shortblock... Questions: If I purchase a JDM import, do I put new gaskets in right away before putting in the car? They're supposed to have 50-60k miles on them... Should valves be looked at? Costs about $2500 There's a store on ebay selling a remanufactured long block for $3400, and a 3-year unlimited mile warranty. They have 100% feedback as well. Is that a decent price? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-06-10-Subaru-2-5-SOHC-with-Active-Valve-Lift-System-Long-Block-Engine/392273889947?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908131621%26meid%3D1be2c92c13164e4abb215bcaf145c0f3%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D9%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D254707892452%26itm%3D392273889947%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%3Aded9a85d-f60f-11ea-bc4a-74dbd180c969|parentrq%3A8991b27f1740ada5af08721ffffff85c|iid%3A1) Subaru Genuine shortblock for about $2000 shipped to my front door. 12-month unlimited warranty, and doesn't need to be installed by a subaru shop. This is for the stock EJ253 block. Should I get a different block? EJ257? I'm not looking for anything but a leak-free, dependable engine/drivetrain. What headgaskets should I use to replace the SOHC paper-like-gaskets? 04-06 STI MLS headgaskets? I have a low-mile 5mt to go with the car. Even if the body is messed up a bit, as long as the drivetrain is solid, that's what i really care about. Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks guys. Greg
  4. I have a rebuilt sohc ej25 sitting in my garage that I'm about to finish building out. I’m trying to figure out if it’s an ej253 or an ej254 or other. I do not have the VIN # from the donor vehicle. Is there a way to visually figure out which variant I have? Thanks, -bob
  5. Vehicle is a 2002 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 SOHC 5 speed. 220,000 miles. Problem would only occur after 30+ minutes of driving on a hot day, as of last week. Now it occurs as soon as engine is warmed up. Plugs, wires, fuel filter, and a million other things have all been replaced in the past couple thousand miles. Once the car warms up, I'm getting a terribly low idle and hesitation/jolting so bad it isn't even road worthy. It's so bad that I can barely get it into 1st gear sometimes. The car won't cut out, but seems pretty close to it most of the time. At idle, it revs up just fine. Could this be a TPS issue? Injectors? Fuel pressure? I don't see why it would only do this once fully warmed, it runs fine (seems a little slower than usual) until it warms up. There is no check engine light. In the past, it threw a code for IAC valve, but it went away once I cleaned it. Thanks guys.
  6. Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help!
  7. Hey guys. So I'm planning on doing an ej swap into my ea wagon this summer, and although I was planning on using an ej22, I have easy access to two ej25s. One is a SOHC with an incomplete harness, don't know what it came out of or what year it is. The other is a DOHC sitting in a wrecked 97 legacy, complete. From what I understand, the SOHC is the more desirable of the two. So I'm wondering if i can use the wiring and ecu from the DOHC on the SOHC? Is there anything else I would have to swap to make it work? I've seen people ask similar questions, but couldn't find any answers for my situation, so any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  8. Hey everyone from USMB, I have a few sensor questions as to what is what on my '07 2.5I SOHC EJ25. I have a couple pictures attached below. I have them color coated just to make it easier to look through. RED BOX is where the bracket that holds the camshaft position sensor is supposed to go and the cam sensor (and bracket) I have is broken which is shown in GREEN BOX. Lastly, the mystery sensor in BLUE BOX, (I'm guessing could be an oil bypass) I need it because the connector broke off. These parts are located behind the cam pulley on the driver side. I've spent the last couple days trying to research and find the mystery sensor and the bracket for the cam pos. sensor. I'm trying to find out what they are called, and I had no luck so far. I need to buy them so I can get my car running smoothly. of course, I had no problem trying to find the cam sensor itself, but it does not come with the bracket. It would be great to know where I can find these parts and what they're called. Thanks! Pat
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