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Found 12 results

  1. I finally pulled the short block (SOA478H600R1) that I purchased a couple months ago out of the box and put onto a stand. Changed out the 7mm oil pump for a 9mm that I had (I don't think I'll need a 10mm as I'm a conservative driver, and this is just for a DD project). Looking at the pistons, they're labeled as 255 SH. Is this going to be a problem mounting with DOHC heads? When I was talking with a subaru parts tech over the phone I had specified that I wanted an EJ251 or EJ253 short block for '03-'05, and they had given me the part number. I had then talked with a different Parts Tech, and they confirmed that that part number was for what I had specified. Are the pistons the same? I thought the 255s were used with the AVL systems, and can't work with pre-AVLS. . Should I be looking for new pistons now? The current motor in my car is an EJ from a 2001 Impreza, with DOHC heads. I wanted to recreate the build as it is generally a nice and powerful (enough) motor. Also, I bought a brand new subaru water pump because I thought the stock one that came on the block was supposed to be forward facing.... What showed up is identical to the spare I bought. They are identical, right? Thanks all, Greg
  2. Hi all, Does anyone know if there is a difference between the crankshaft sprocket for a 00/01 EJ251 and a '97-98' EJ25D? I'm trying to diagnose some engine-performance issues and will be looking at my timing soon enough... I have a EJ 251 block mated with the heads from a EJ 25D. The crankshaft sprocket came from the 251, and the cams are for the 25D heads. I read on here that there may be differences between A/T and M/T sprockets of the same block, and I do not know which transmission this block was mated to. According to opposedforces.com, and an online subaru dealer parts page, the sprocket is the same between the 25D and SOHC blocks. Just wondering if anyone knows of a difference. Issues at hand include odd imbalance/vibrations between 1800 and 2500 rpm. Feels like there's a cylinder not firing. Smoke test, and leak-down test are in order, hopefully next weekend after finals. Take care, Greg
  3. I'm not entirely new to Subaru but I haven't don't much to an engine yet, however I am planning to rebuild my engine on my 98 Foerster limited, and I'm worried I'll botch it. Any advice?
  4. I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right. The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something). I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets.
  5. I bought this 1997 Outback DOHC with 198,000 miles about a year ago. Just after purchasing the car I took the car for a road trip from Seattle to Santa Barbara while towing a 400lb trailer. About two hours from SB my car started to overheat. This was strange because I had recently had the radiator replaced. When I opened the hood the pressure cap on the radiator had fluid on it and the overflow reservoir for the coolant was overfull. After the car cooled, I took the cap off and started the engine while filling the radiator from the top. I nursed the car to my final destination. On the way home from this same drive I had another overheating when I pulled off the freeway and went to the gas station. I let the car sit and then the next day took it to a jiffy lube to have the cooling system purged and filled, eliminating any air pockets. I was able to make it the rest of my trip without any hitches but I still had suspicions. Since this trip the car overheated twice and then finally when I checked the car after another overheat I found oil in the coolant reservoir. Since then I have pulled the engine and got the heads off. I am not a trained mechanic and wanted to hear another persons opinion about my cylinder walls and heads. I want to know if it is worth installing new head gaskets on this motor or if I should search for a new block and machine the heads. Thanks in advance!
  6. I drive a 1998 Forester I've had it throw codes quite a few times now. First time, a month ago, there was a lot of lurching, it was repeated misfires. Got sparkplugs changed (went with NGKs) and new plug wires as well. Ran nicely after. I had it diagnosed at an autozone, so while I think it was 3 and 4 misfiring, I didn't get a look at the exact diagnosis so I'm not 100% sure. Second time, used my OBD II reader, 3 & 4 misfires. Had them pretty consistently, swapped the coil pack. They seemed to stop. The engine threw the same cylinder 3 and 4 misfire codes on the way home today. I've heard from friends that injectors seem unlikely since the misfires wouldn't be this random if that were the issue. Not all that sure where to go next. MAP sensor or vacuum leak? Possibly irrelevant facts: 1. Swapped my clockspring last night. Successful. Airbag light is off and horn and cruise work again. 2. Driving (or trying to drive) from Ogden, Utah to Oshkosh, Wisconsin in 3 days. Joy.
  7. The car: 1998 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS Rally Blue Pearl 240k + miles HG done at 225k Clutch still 80% then Trans noisy in all gears Has a bunch of suspension upgrades. Check my older employer's website for complete mod list and early history (I haven't worked there in 5 years, almost to the day, but they still have my car on their site.) www.mttechsuba.com "RIDES" "LEWIS' RS" Basically, it has upgraded suspension, rear LSD, bigger brakes, stereo, etc. I also have a complete set of matching seats for future repairs. This last summer, I had rear ended another car at about 10-15 MPH, it was going to need upper core support work, maybe a hood, and replace the fender damage from WCSS 8 or 9 (2nd Hood River one) where I ran into the fence in the mud pit. I removed he bumper beam in order to get radiator fans off of the belts. Secured bumper cover to car with out beam and have been driving it since. Three days ago, a chick in a ford focus abruptly changed lanes out of her stopped lane into my open lane in which I was travelling about 25 MPH. My RF corner went into her LF door and fender. Without a bumper, the RF headlight support, fender, hood is smashed in. Her insurance (Geico) says it is a total. So, do I take the money and run? (obviously going to take car back, trade some parts out, stereo, etc) Buy back and fix? or buy back and part out? I am waiting to hear from them tomorrow, Friday 02 Jan 15 If I total it and don't buy back to fix OR buy back and part out, I have a 1994 Legacy turbo wagon that needs some love. I believe the struts will swap, maybe the sway bars and suspension bits, and the brakes for sure. Then I can keep my 16" gold wheels with studs, and my '05 17" GT wheels with Michelin Pilot SS tires, sending the turbo 15" wheels and small brakes away with the RS. Any thoughts on approach here? I have changed everything in my life this last year, this is the last thing to remain of my previous life. (Divorce, moved out of house, quit 21 year Subaru mechanic career for building maintenance / operations career) I love the little car but fear it is not worth it. I don't necessarily have the time to fix it, and I am not a body guy. I know people who are (Russ:)), but don't want to waste their spare time on my love affair with this car. Any interest here for the car itself? The parts therein? Thanks for reading, let me know what you all think! Lewis
  8. Hey guys. So I'm planning on doing an ej swap into my ea wagon this summer, and although I was planning on using an ej22, I have easy access to two ej25s. One is a SOHC with an incomplete harness, don't know what it came out of or what year it is. The other is a DOHC sitting in a wrecked 97 legacy, complete. From what I understand, the SOHC is the more desirable of the two. So I'm wondering if i can use the wiring and ecu from the DOHC on the SOHC? Is there anything else I would have to swap to make it work? I've seen people ask similar questions, but couldn't find any answers for my situation, so any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  9. Thanks as always for the help. Love these forums. On my 1999 Legacy Outback (2.5L DOHC), I recently replaced my timing belt & components after a slipped tooth resulted in poor compression and misfires on cylinders 1 and 3. Before the timing belt replacement I got 90 and 80 psi compression on cylinders 1 and 3, respectively. Now I get 210 and 60 psi respectively. (On cylinders 2 and 4 I got 190 and 180). I detailed this info in this thread. A friend advised a leakdown test next. I put Cylinder 3 in TDC, held it in place with a socket and breaker bar, dialed input pressure up to 75 psi and got 72-73 on the other gauge, i.e. approximately 3-4% leakage. I could hear a quiet hissing through the oil fill cap. 1) Do these numbers seem right---i.e. are the results of my leakdown test consistent with the compression test? Want to make sure I'm doing it right. 2) Assuming it is right, this means I have worn piston rings or cylinder walls, right?
  10. Legacy EJ25D 2.5L DOHC. Engine began running rough and idling rough a few weeks back, CEL diagnostic codes said cylinder 1 & 3 misfire. Diagnosed with a compression test. Cylinders 1 and 3 were getting 90 and 80 psi respectively. Cylinders 2 and 4 were 190 and 180 respectively. I just put the timing belt back on and re-checked compression on the right side. Cylinder 1 is now getting 210 psi, but Cylinder 3 is only getting 60. (Note---I did this before the engine was all back together, so I didn't idle it beforehand and the compression test was run on a cold engine.) I'm pretty sure I got back the power I was lacking when the timing belt slipped. Just took it for a spin and it feels about the same as I recall it in terms of acceleration. So, it's possible that cylinder has been underperforming for some time... Now that I have the results of a compression test and verified timing is like new again, is there anything further I can do without getting into expensive territory (valve work... piston rings etc.)? This is an old car (228k miles).
  11. The saga continues.... my timing belt project is turning out to be a real disaster. I bought a timing belt & water pump kit that included crankshaft & camshaft seals, and figured it was a good idea to replace them while I was at it. I tried a couple of methods to get my camshaft bolts loosened, since I didn't have the special tool. After tongue & groove pliers, a strap wrench, and a cheap plumbing wrench failed me, I managed to lock up the left-side camshafts by folding my old timing belt over a couple of times and wedging it in between the sprockets, such that the teeth on both camshaft sprockets engaged the belt. Piece of cake. Right side didn't work so well. I tucked a small wedge in between the folds of the old timing belt that time, thinking it would make the job quicker, but it had the effect of shattering the exhaust sprocket before the bolt loosened. Stupid idea, in hindsight. I didn't realize how vulnerable the sprockets would be to this kind of stress. I'm pricing out a new sprocket, but obviously I need a better way of tightening/loosening the bolts. I'm loathe to spend $60 or more on the specialty tool, since I don't know if I'll use it again on this car. I'd rather spend the same $$$ for a general-purpose tool that will serve me down the road. (That said, I'll gladly buy the specialty tool for the sake of doing it right, if no other tool will do). I thought about a chain wrench, but nobody around me carries them. I need to make sure that (1) it is good quality, don't want to spend money on junk, and (2) it will fit between the intake and exhaust sprockets, with a leather belt or something in between for protection if necessary. Brand recommendations welcome. Or, is there another alternative tool or trick instead of a chain wrench? Also---maybe a silly question, but why was this bolt so tight? Is it common practice to use a strong threadlock compound for them? If not, I have to assume someone before me tightened the everliving crap out of it. The torque I applied trying to loosen it greatly exceeded 60 ft-lbs. Thanks as always for your kind advice. I know some of my issues are probably pretty cringeworthy newbie material. :-)
  12. I posted earlier tonight about a recent cylinder misfire. In that thread, Fairtax4me suggested that I make sure my timing belt hasn't slipped. But even if the timing belt isn't the source of my current engine dilemma, I figure I should make that my next DIY project. Supposing I want to order a complete timing belt component kit, including idlers, tensioner, and a water pump---can anyone offer advice on where to go for quality components? My car is a '99 Legacy Outback 2.5L with 230,000 miles. I have found components kits on RockAuto.com and eBay ranging in price from $150 to almost $400. I understand OEM quality components are desirable, but I don't know who the OEM manufacturer(s) are. Also, I wonder if it's overkill for me to worry about OEM with an older car. I don't know about the reputations of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Can you suggest a reasonable plan of attack, brands you trust, or a preferred online vendor? Thanks!
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