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Found 16 results

  1. 3-43 7. Hydraulic Valve Lifter 1. Replacement The hydraulic valve lifter can be replaced even when the engine is mounted on the vehicle as follows: 1. Disconnect both the blow-by and PCV hoses 2. Revove the valve rocker cover. 3. Using the special tool (Socket Wrench: 899988607), loosen the valve rocker ASSY and remove the push rod. 4. Raise the vehicle body with a jack and suppor it on a safety stand. 5. Remove the nuts which secure the front engine mounting and slightly raise the engine using a floor crane. 6. Remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil completely. Detach the oil pan. 7. Remove the hydraulic valve lifter. Use of a magnet facilitates removal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3767-ea81fig-3-45-a-5678/ Fig. 3-45 A5-678 8. The valve lifter can be installed in reverse order. 2. Adjustment 1. Perform adjustment in cold condition [coolant temperature 20 to 40 deg. C (68 deg. to 104 deg. F)]. 2. Retighten cylinder head nuts and bolts previously if necessary. 3. Adjust hydraulic valve lifter with the following procedures: a. Perform adjustment in two (2) sequences. Sequence (I) -------------------- Position #1 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust the valve lifters for intake and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder, for exhaust valve on #3 cylinder and for intake valve on #4 cylinder. Sequence (II)---------------- Position #2 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust all the others, i.e. for intake and exhaust valves on #2 cylinder, for intake valve on #3 cylinder and for exhaust valve on #4 cylinder. b. Raise up the bend of lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3768-ea81fig-3-46-a5-700/ Fig. 3-46 A-700 <Valve opens. Screw by approx 4 turns> c. Leave it with the valves opened for approx. 15 minutes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3769-ea81fig-3-47-a5-701/ Fig 3-47 A-701 <Leave for approx 15 minutes then pressure chamber volume becomes minimum. Valve moves to close a little.> d. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of valve. This condion is called "Zero Point". http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3770-ea81fig-3-48-a5-702/ Fig. 3-48 A5-702 <Valve closes Zero point Unscrew gradually> e. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by 1.5 turns http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3771-ea81fig-3-49-a5-703/ Fig. 3-49 <Hydralic valve lifter adjusted Unscrew by 1.5 turns> f. Tighen lock nut, and bend the lock washer.
  2. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3765-ea81-do-not-adjust-valves-sticker/ A sticker on my valve cover says "Don'd Adjust Valve Clearance". The engine is at 160,000 miles. What should I do?
  3. Duplicate...Moderator, please delete this.
  4. Hello everyone, I am preparing myself to rebuild an EJ25 engine in my 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i SOHC. I want to make sure my valves are at or near original factory spec. If all I do is lap the valves, I understand that I may need to readjust the stem height. Will this cause any problem with compression or timing? Is there a way to determine if I need to recut the 3 angled surfaces on the valves? If I buy new valves for this used head, it looks like I will need to lap them, but will they sit correctly in the head? Is there a way to check the valve seats and check it's angles or is all this that I'm asking about for the machine shop to do?
  5. Hey everyone. I posted a while ago about my car suddenly losing clutch control and not being able to shift gears. Someone suggested I needed to bleed my clutch lines. I just got back from doing this with my father in law, we removed the slave valve, compressed it with a clamp and successfully managed to bleed/milk the line and get new clutch fluid (DOT3) into the lines etc. However, I still have no ability to put the car in gear. The clutch will depress, but the gear stick simply will not move and 'slot' into gear. I'm not a mechanic by any means and have no idea what to do. The slave cylinder doesn't appear to be broken (we took out the pin and its still intact), there a little 'flap' that the slave cylinder pushes, it seems as though it just needs to be 'pushed' more for the gears to engage, but I'm not sure how to fix that. Any help would be most appreciated! Attached is a photo of the slave, pushing against the flappy thing (techy term) , does it look alright?
  6. Hey Gang, I just signed up. I'm new to Subaru's, but am not a newbie. I an experienced DIY wrench. I just bought (traded, really) a dead 1997 Outback wagon EJ25D from my brother in law for effectively $100. He bought it three years ago for his kids, but the engine coughed up a lung two weeks into ownership. The car began to miss on one cylinder and he limped it home. Professionals told him it was probably the timing belt. He parked it at the back of his driveway and there it has sat, until now. I'm starting a new business, and need a roof rack. The car spent the first 16 years of its life garaged in NYC, and it has only 80K miles. The interior is like new. The exterior is good, but could use a respray. This wagon IS WORTH FIXING. It has only 80K original miles on it. The Obie experts on YT, from my research, seem to suggest pulling the motor to fix the valves/timing belt/cogs/pulley issues. So that's the plan. I bought the Haynes manual and read it thoroughly. I've watched the Mike Bauer and Briansmobile1 video on YT. I've bought a good quality engine stand, and following Mike Bauer I've removed the battery, accessories, and the intake manifold yada yada yada. I've freed the exhaust manifold, the two motor mount nuts, and the four engine to bell housing nuts/bolts. Also freed are the four flywheel bolts. I've completed the list via the Haynes manual and am about to rent the hoist. And for your information when I pulled all four spark plugs I found that #3 was smashed in. Houston, we got a problem... Once the engine is on the stand I shall remove the DOHC heads carefully. I've found a local machine shop in Yonkers, NY, that claims to fix "...about ten of 'em [subaru cylinder heads] a week." The shop gave me some good instructions on how to remove the DOHC heads off the motor. The shop told they will call once their diagnosis is complete. I will have to choose what parts to buy, or perhaps a rebuild kit. This is where I'm open to advice from the gang here. I don't know if I will need new cam shafts, or just new valves and springs. I'm pondering if I should do a bottom end rebuild as well. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks. -King B.
  7. Hello everybody! I've recently picked up a 1994 Subaru Loyale for $200 - needed timing belts. I pulled the engine out of the car and did a complete gasket rebuild. While it was apart I noticed parts came out of the camshaft housing/assembly. The parts looked like some sort of oil pressure valve, a spring, a pipe, and a bolt. I did what little research I could and i believed i was able to correctly re-assemble the engine. Eventually got the car running, and I had a horrible ticking sound coming from the drivers side cam housing area. I read that it could be mis-seated rockers and that it could possibly go away with some driving, however mine didn't. engine died while idling and wouldn't start back up. I pulled the engine apart AGAIN only to find that my drivers side cam looks like it was never getting any oil, and seized. What would cause that cam not to get any oil and seize up? I have a new cam and housing ready to go in, but i'd like to make sure I don't have the same problem again. One other thing i noticed is when i pulled the camshaft housing off, oil was coming out of one of the bolt holes in the head. (where a bolt for the cam housing goes into) is this normal? I can post any pictures if anybody feels they would be helpful. just don't have any on this computer at the moment. I greatly appreciate any helpful tips, pointers and advice! I've replaced the following items. - Water pump - Oil pump (OEM straight from subaru) - Timing belts, tensioners and pulley - Full engine gasket set Thanks again!
  8. So my EJ22 is causing a good bit of concern. It is burning about a half a quart of oil a week.(300 miles). I have blue smoke on deceleration, lots of black residue in the exhaust, and it has started a slight tick. Am I looking at burnt valve seals or possibly a clogged pcv? I don't have the stock intake setup so I am not sure what my PCV system is supposed to look like. Any advice helps thanks.
  9. Hey everybody, I just got a 1990 Subaru Loyale a few days ago (will post pictures soon), while driving the check engine light turned on. It turns out it is a ISC Solenoid Valve Fault. I'm just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and what you guys did to fix it. EDIT; my bad guys, i was looking at the wrong codes After looking at the correct codes the problem is in fact the Idle Air Control Valve or Circuit.
  10. Thanks as always for the help. Love these forums. On my 1999 Legacy Outback (2.5L DOHC), I recently replaced my timing belt & components after a slipped tooth resulted in poor compression and misfires on cylinders 1 and 3. Before the timing belt replacement I got 90 and 80 psi compression on cylinders 1 and 3, respectively. Now I get 210 and 60 psi respectively. (On cylinders 2 and 4 I got 190 and 180). I detailed this info in this thread. A friend advised a leakdown test next. I put Cylinder 3 in TDC, held it in place with a socket and breaker bar, dialed input pressure up to 75 psi and got 72-73 on the other gauge, i.e. approximately 3-4% leakage. I could hear a quiet hissing through the oil fill cap. 1) Do these numbers seem right---i.e. are the results of my leakdown test consistent with the compression test? Want to make sure I'm doing it right. 2) Assuming it is right, this means I have worn piston rings or cylinder walls, right?
  11. I was tuning up my 95 Legacy yesterday with cleaning/testing throttle body & Position Sensor, PCV, MAF, etc. Started looking for my EGR valve to take a whack at but could not find it. Checked the Chiltons manual & tells/shows where it "should" be also says that testing the EGR is done by OnBoardDiagnostics & I have OBDII so wouldnt it be somewhere Checked online for pictures and where the EGR Pipe should be is crimped off. What is the meaning of this? Im boggled.
  12. Long story short, read the title. I'm worried that this might be yet another damned expensive repair. Some background below. Hoping to get some advice from seasoned Subaru owners. Me: I'm a poor grad student, at least one year from graduation. Must have a car. If this one dies I've gotta go find another. Hoping to keep this one, since I just spent a bunch of time and money replacing clutch and doing front end work. My car: 1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5L DOHC, think that means it's an EJ25D motor. I bought it in 2011 at 198,xxx miles. Now at 227,800. Previous owner told me he replaced head gasket and some other major work---really wish I'd written it all down. I replaced ignition coil, plugs and wires (2 summers ago). Wires look OK visually at the moment. Just a few weeks ago, I did my first major project---replaced clutch, rear main seal, oil separator pan. I removed entire exhaust system in order to do the repair. Dropped transmission, rather than pulling engine. The problem: My exhaust started getting loud in the last week or two. Suspected exhaust leak. Also, the check engine light came on yesterday, indicating P0301 & P0303 (cylinders 1 & 3 misfire). Took a look under the car this morning and realized a welded hanger hook had broken off and left a hole behind. I picked up some fiberglass exhaust repair tape and patched the hole. (Perhaps not relevant to the misfires, but including it just in case). I took a 20-minute cruise per the instructions on the exhaust repair tape. On my drive, CEL flashed & came on again. Codes were P0301 and P0303 again, plus 2 more codes: "P0301 P" and "P0303 P". (What's that extra "P" mean?) I did some reading on these forums. Since the 2 misfires happened simultaneously, I suspect it's not the plugs or wires. Also, I've seen some talk about timing belts related to this kind of problem. I do not know when my timing belt was last replaced, so it was at least 30k miles ago (i.e. previous owner). Finally, this thread indicated that it could be "burned valves." I tried the "dollar bill trick" someone recommended on that post. Seems like the behavior of the bill depends on where & how I'm holding it... but I'm afraid I "failed" the test. :-( I . (below). Based on these symptoms, have I definitely got burned valves? Could the "dollar bill" behavior be caused be a less severe problem? What should I do next...? Get a mechanic to diagnose further? Can I do this repair on my own? Given the age of the car, and the time & $$$ expense of a repair, what would you do in my shoes? Thanks for any advice. Cheers. http://youtu.be/vSVGv702cmU
  13. I have read that two people have helped or eliminated a gas filling problem by swapping the two small hoses on the mechanical valve at the top of the filler tube. I just had my local garage change the filler on my wife's 2000 Forester and now gas will barely go in. 2 gallons in 10-15 min with a can babying it all the way barely. My questions are, what is the proper name for that valve and does it just connect or disconnect flow between the small tubes or does it have a check built in. If it just connects or disconnects then switching the tubes should not accomplish anything and I will have removed the tire and cover for naught. It is very cold and snowy in my driveway so I would prefer not to waste time if I can help it. Advice would be welcomed.
  14. Recently was driving from VA to MN in my 92 Legacy L w/ auto trans & pulled off highway to get gas. When I got to stop sign had rough idle & almost no acceleration. Finally checked codes after double checking oil & trans fluid were all good. I pulled a 31, 32 & 35. Had no choice but to drive the other 700 or so miles with the car like it was. Got the O2 sensor replaced with a new one & replaced the purge valve with 1 from the junk yard. While I worked on car had battery disconnected. Started car up still slightly rough idle better but not right acceleration & check engine light still on. Checked codes again & got 24 & still 35. Have ordered another purge valve with 30 day warranty. Am I in any hopes of this & cleaning the Idle Air Valve going to fix my problem as I need to take family back to VA & not comfortable trying to baby it 1100+ miles with kids in the car. Found article saying I could clean air valve with sea foam after getting it warm enough for radiator fan to turn on & slowly pouring the sea foam thru the air valve & it said to expect a LOT of white smoke. Ideas suggestions please
  15. I have a 1991 loyale that has little rust on the body, new fuel pump, water pump, winter and summer tires. needs a rack and pinion at some point but otherwise great little car. One of the timing belts broke and i suspect while fixing I some how bunged up a valve or i guess it may have happened when the belt went. Engine wont crank past 340ish degrees. Have yet to take the covers off to check. I plan on going through the steps again to do the belts if everything looks alright. Curious to know if swapping out the engine is worth it and can I put in something that is more current with more power. not ready to give up on it as I really enjoy driving it. Also , suggestions on where to get a used but good motor. Im in the edmonton, alberta, canada area.I havent done too much in the way of car mechanics but do enjoy it and can follow a manual. Any suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated. thanks guys.
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