pawn_that_dude

Hi Rob, That makes sense. There is no code on the key and I don't have any Subaru keys left. Isn't there a way to get the code off one of the door locks? I've just run into another issue, my ignition is stuck, seems to be a common issue: Do you know how to remove the lock cylinder from the ignition? The lock cylinder is $15 but the ignition is like $200 so it would be really nice to just replace the lock cylinder. At this point I am going to have a different key for the door, the ignition, but no key for the glovebox or the rear hatch. Sounds like a classic ancient Subaru!

I have the same problem I think (84 GL). Cylinder is stuck in the run position and can't be turned either way. The key initially was stuck, but I eventually just yanked it out after I tried every way to move it. I partially took apart the lock cylinder to see how it works. Does anyone have any tips for how I could just disable the lock entirely so I could just turn it with any old key? I don't really care that much about the security (well, currently the security is none because you can bump start it anytime you want).

My apologies for the delayed response. The "valet" key as I was calling it is just an Ilco copy that I got with the car. I just assumed it was a valet key. The glovebox is currently in the locked position and the key does not go into the lock. The key does go into the unlocked hatch door, but it can't turn the lock. I have a third key but the behavior is the same. What do you think I should do? I could potentially get a glovebox lock and send it to you to get rekeyed. But why does my extra key not work for the hatch if there is not supposed to be a valet key? Much appreciated.

So somehow I never saw the replies on this thread I created! Wish I would have. This "problem" was so annoying in cold weather. What doesn't make sense to me is how the oil pressure can still be pegged long after the car has warmed up. But if I turn it off and back on to reset the pressure after it's good and warm, I can rev the nuts off it and the pressure won't spike. It seems very binary to me. I did replace my oil pressure sensor. The old one was leaking, so might as well. I finally found one that would work for my '84 GL 4WD wagon: Beck Arnley P/N 201-1341. Behavior is exactly the same, however. Which is at least encouraging that the pressure reads the same between two different sensors. In the meantime I also added an oil pan heater pad. Anyway, seems like a ton of people who live in somewhat cold places have this problem, so I just won't worry about it. Seems to happen for me if the temperature overnight is below 50 (it doesn't happen in the summer).

An old thread that I am just now seeing. For either OP or future people on the internet. I installed a 4"x5" heater pad on my EA81 oil pan. Super simple. Just sand away the paint down to bare metal, apply the sticky pad, seal the edges with red RTV. The wire runs through near the radiator and then out the grill. Then it's plugged into a timer. Makes startup on cold days happier.

A couple months ago, I lost my only master key, and turns out both of my spares are valet keys that don't lock the hatch or glove box. This causes three problems: 1. I can't lock the trunk with my current key. 2. I had to break into the glove box. The lock core is now broken. Turns out finding a new glove box lock core for a '84 GL isn't easy, regardless of key issues. 3. Subaru says the keys are too old to use their VIN lookup tool to make me a new one. What do you suggest I do? How can I get a new master key made? Any ideas on the glove box?

On m 84' GL 4WD (EA81) I've had some high oil pressure problems on cold starts first thing in the morning: Starting up, oil pressure sits at 50-60psi, which is totally normal for me. I rev it past ~2-2.5k, the oil pressure will slowly rise then shoot up past the top of the scale and stay there. I turn it off, the oil pressure falls after 10-20 seconds, sometimes with a faint audible click, and shoots back down. If I let it idle at ~1k until the temp hits the bottom of the gauge, the oil pressure won't rise, and the oil pressure will be totally fine for the rest of the drive. It never goes above 60psi even revving it hard. Here's a video:

Super Rupair in Boulder, CO sells OEM axles that they get re-manufactured by a shop nearby. Not sure if they ship parts, but they can't be the only ones with the hookup on rebuilding them.

Thanks everyone. I feel a bit silly not even knowing the twist type existed before doing this. The car is new to me and I had just done my Land Cruiser rear brakes earlier in the day so I thought the Subaru would go pretty smoothly. I got my butt kicked! The driver side hub area is notably more rusty than the passenger side, which probably has to do with the difficulty. I will try a punch and a bigger hammer for the cone washer.

It seems like the caliper might be the twist variety, something I didn't actually know existed until some post-wrenching beer research time. Is it really that simple? Now if I can get this cone washer off I can get this done no problem.

I was changing the front brakes on my 84 GL (4wd 4 door wagon) and I ran into a couple difficulties: Both caliper pistons won't compress with a C-clamp or the special tool (the one that slots into the caliper like a brake pad). Even if put the old pads back on, it's still not even close to wide enough to fit over them, so it's significantly narrower than when I started the job. Considering this is happening on both I am pretty sure I did something wrong, or I should just replace both calipers. If I press the brake pedal, both of them do push out a little bit, and I can compress them back to where they started but I still need to compress them a good half inch to get them over the pads. The drivers side axle nut cone washer WILL NOT come off. Whereas the passenger side hub basically fell into my lap, the driver side is super stuck. I tried hitting the edge with a flathead + hammer, hammering all around the hub, soaking in penetrating fluid, hammering some more. Even renting a slide hammer to try and yank the hub off. The only thing I haven't tried yet is a blow torch on the hub surrounding the axle threads. Any advice on these fronts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone. I put in a new alternator today and it looks like the dash lights are behaving normally now. And my goodness, that has got to be about as easy as replacing an alternator could be.

Much appreciated. I will replace the alternator and see what happens. And I've only got 110k!

Hi everyone, I've got a new to me 84 GL 4WD wagon. Very faintly, the alternator light, brake fluid light, stop lamp, and parking brake light are illuminated all the time.On a bright sunny day it's impossible to notice. Night driving you can easily see it. The lights illuminate to full strength when you turn the key before you start the car (as they do in all cars). Or if I pull the parking brake, it will be 2-3 times as bright (as desired). The lights will almost entirely fade away at 3,700+ rpm. Then they return when I shift up. So I am pretty sure it's not actually a problem with anything that's lighting up, since they all behave the same. Nonetheless: - Alternator tests fine at idle and while revving and under load. Battery gauge works and the needle is always in the normal range. - I did a brake flush. Fluid level has always been fine, and the old fluid didn't even look bad. No noise from the brakes and the brake action feels pretty good (for 34 year old brake technology). I made a video to show what I am talking about. The first part is with the key turned and the engine off, to demonstrate how bright the lights should be. The second part is starting the car and then turning off the instrument lights. The parking brake is on the whole video and you can see how much brighter that light is than the brake fluid/stop lamp light is. At night the lights are pretty obvious but you wouldn't be able to see them during the day.