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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. Interesting. Well, that's a good thing, makes it easier to repair.
  2. I miss matched the diffs once. 4wd was pretty tricky driving. It still helped get moving, but forget cruseing in a straight line on snow. It wandered all over the place. And it bound up on wet or dry pavement, you could feel it. A lot worse than miss matched tires.
  3. The u joints are staked. I had a local drive shaft shop rebuild one of mine, so I know it can be done.
  4. Ej22 is the swap most do. A lot of work, but you get a more serviceable engine that parts are still available for. 40% more power, with no reliability loss due to turbo complexity and stuff like that. But custom adapter plate, clutch setup, wiring harness work needed . Lots of swap information on this forum.
  5. Noise is not normal. Failing universal joints can cause this kind of noise. Check them first. Wheel bearings can make a noise, but you can't tell condition by looking - unless you took the bearings apart. If the axle nuts were tight, and the seals were good, they are probably ok.
  6. Sounds like you have a stripped front hub. Put it in 2WD. Have someone look at the axle nut on the front wheel. Put it in gear. Check both sides. If the axle nut turns, and the wheel doesn't, there's your problem.
  7. water coming out exhaust while the engine and exhaust system are cold is not unusual. Some of the hydrogens in the hydrocarbons in the fuel end up combining with some of the oxygen, making water. You only see it because the pipe is cold, and it condenses. You are going to want to closely monitor the coolant level on the engine, at least until you begin to see that it isn't disappearing after every drive. Cold oil pressure is always high on a normal engine.
  8. No, it is shocking, but if everything else is right, there is enough slop in the existing holes. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the hub forward, the tighten the bolts.
  9. Look at the trailing arm. Does it have 3 bolts on the side? If it does that's the adjustment point. If not then it's a version I am not familiar with. A FSM would have the information.
  10. Anything with an EA82 engine will fit. Loyale and GL from at.least 86 through 94 . Legacy is totally different.
  11. Extra connectors may also be for options that the particular car doesn't have. An example - my 86 came with manual side mirrors. My 90 came.with power mirrors. I got.a pair of mirrors and the dash switch from a local scrap yard. When I went to install them, the wiring for them was in the doors and the dash! All I had to do was plug them in. Instant upgrade.
  12. I am not sure if an 84 has the same parts as an 86GL through 93 Loyale, but if they do, here is my thread on DIY alignment -
  13. The differences should be small. just annoying things, like a wire color... Style of connector here and there. Some of the accessories. I never had an XT6, but several EA82 wagons. From 86 GL to 93 Loyale and have a complete FSM for an 86 and 90. Those are the kind of things I ran across.
  14. Sounds like a good idea. I don't swap them just for timing bekts, but for a reseal, etc., that's how I do it. Get the spare engine all fixed up, then swap it in.
  15. And the idler with teeth, low down on drivers side.
  16. First question, confirm which engine it has. Keep in mind these are rare versions of cars that many parts are NLA even for the common versions. Finding a pro mechanic shop that will know what to do with one or even touch one is going to be a challenge and likely expensive.
  17. Yes, there isn't much else but that button contact. Or if it were way off time mechanically, like if the distributor was pulled, and put back with wrong positioning like 45 degrees off.
  18. given the situation, I'd run a filter before the pump, at least for a while until clean tank is verified.
  19. Did you measure voltages on the fuses?
  20. If you know where the fuse or breaker is for that circuit, you can pull it, and jump It with a brake light bulb. If there is a short, or low resistance path, the light will light, and you can go poking and wiggling wires, pulling down stream connectors, etc. Without risking more damage, or blowing a bunch of fuses.
  21. The knobby thing on the end is a pulsation damper. The pump on the right would think can deliver more fuel at higher pressure than the SPFI pump on the left....
  22. The dropping to 10psi is a problem. A non turbo SPFI starts to get upset a few PSI below it's set point of 21PSI. Forget running one at 10PSI.
  23. If it tries to run on starting fluid or even carburetor cleaner, timing and spark is ok. Black wires with stripes are not grounds. If it is getting fuel and not firing, the plugs should be wet. If your used fuels pump was sitting for a while, it is probably stuck, and not running. I had 2 or 3 spares, so I thought, until the day I tried to use them. Every one was stuck. They were all working when I stored them.
  24. Yep, that is one of the connectors in the solenoid circuit.
  25. I can try later tonight

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