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exercion

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About exercion

  • Birthday 06/05/1966

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central Pennsylvania
  • Vehicles
    1988 GL

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  1. So apparently it's a "Cover Catcher". I so love how Subaru names stuff
  2. I already did that, it holds the same fuel pressure when it successfully starts, when it goes through its shutdown phase, and when it refuses to start.
  3. I finally got a pressure gauge in, between other life issues, work etc. According to the gauge, it runs at 23psi, and this doesn't waver when it goes through its bucking shut-off phase.
  4. I have a new to me 2017 Crosstrek. One thing I need to take care of is this. Passenger side rear door sill has this plastic piece that a stud on the door fits into, while the drivers side has a hole. Not sure what it does or what it's called to look up ordering one. So does anyone know what the plastic part is, or what Subaru calls it? Better yet any idea of a PN? Eric
  5. I should have a pressure gauge in today or tomorrow
  6. Up til this little episode my Subie has been my daily driver, 40 miles round trip to work 5 days a week, plus assorted running around.
  7. Following up with this, it's more than simply not wanting to restart after running. While trying to nail this down, I found this out: It starts and runs beautifully in the morning/evening/anytime it's been sitting for hours. Idles high til it warms up, then drops the idle to normal rpm's Purrs like the proverbial kitten, no missing, sputtering, throttle needed, etc. 25 minutes after start-up, almost enough to set your watch by, it bucks stutters, sounds like an old carbed engine loading up, pops a bit, then shuts off. Will not restart for at least an hour and a half, two is better. Even then it hesitates to actually light off. Let it sit a few hours, and it's back to hit the key and boom, starts right up. No vacuum leaks external (sprayed starting fluid at all vacuum connections), idles at 21-22" vacuum. EGR valve is stuck in whatever position it is in (guessing closed since it's holding good vacuum, and I took the valve off to see if it needed cleaned etc. and it seems closed). I have not checked fuel pressure yet, have a gauge coming, but the fact that it is so predictable as far as when it happens makes me doubt that, but I'll check. Also, I can drive it, no loss of power, climbs the mountain well, as long as I don't turn it off. Changed spark plugs (they were due) no bad signs there. Checked resistance on the coil, it was in spec, but one of the screws had bad threads, so I changed that. Same issue. Tested volts and resistance on CTS, in spec. Had another so I tested it, in spec. Installed, same issue. On the chance that it still was a temp issue causing the no-restart thing, when I had it in that mode I plugged in the cool CTS, so it would maybe think it was cooler and adjust to allow a start. Didn't work. Only codes flashing are 34 & 35 EGR and purge, as noted the EGR is stuck, and I have my vacuum gauge plugged into the line that goes to the canister. No other stored codes in either read memory or D-check. Pretty baffled here.
  8. Hi Dave, thanks for the reply. Those are the threads I used to learn about testing the sensor. It was about 15F when I checked cold, and if memory serves I was approx 5K ohms. Started it up, warmed to approx 160 (based on the current 160 thermostat, going to switch to a warmer one) and had 500 ohms. Which seemed to follow the correct pattern. Hope you don't mind a dumb question, but where is the ecu, and do you know the pinout? I have two manuals but not access to either at the moment. Eric
  9. 1988 GL SPFI 5spd. Having the issue that when it's cold, even subzero cold the car starts fine. However, after a drive, if I shut it off, it doesn't want to start. If it sits long enough, it does start up as normal. I searched the forum and read about testing the ohms in the temp sensor and it seemed to be fine (Good resistance cold, dropping hen the car is warm). Contacts were clean, but I cleaned anyway. Not sure my next step. Thinking I should try to get it to do it (I haven't gotten a solid pattern on just how warm and how long to create the issue) and then measure resistance. Next play could be replace the sensor. Not sure. Thoughts? Eric
  10. Replaced both alternator and AC belts. Rewired starter system to include a start relay. Replaced starter positive lead, and both heater hoses while I was at it. Switched to LED headlight bulbs.
  11. Thank you! It sounds like I'm on the right track then, mine does have the hill holder and appears to have 3 ports. I am disc front/drum rear (did any wagons come with 4 wheel discs? I'd love to convert) Eric
  12. My issue is that rare though it may be, my 32 year old master cylinder is bad. Yes I can rebuild, I had not decided which way to go, but it seems there are two different internal diameters 13/16" and 15/16" so I'm still stuck wanting to know which cylinder I'm looking for so even for a rebuild kit to order.
  13. I seem to be finding all sorts of quirks and issues on my elderly GL. Having master cylinder issues, and when I look on Rock Auto I see a bunch of different ones and am not sure just which one I need for my 88 GL 5spd 4WD wagon. Most of the confusion for me seems to be the number of ports. If I am counting things right, mine has three lines connected to the master cylinder. The descriptions on Rock for three ports says for coupe and sedan, it does list the wagon ones with no description of ports, etc. Anyone know which OEM part number I should be looking at to cross reference? Eric
  14. Well, like the subject says. Was driving along, pulled into a parking lot and the trusty Subie shut off. Popped the hood, and could see the drivers side belt was off. Didn't have the needed wrenches (thinking that it had just skipped off the sprockets) and the engine was hot and I was under a time constraint, so I arranged a tow home. Went out today, looked underneath and low and behold, the oil pump pulley is gone. Guessing I maybe didn't have the nut tight enough when I did a full reseal, pump rebuild a couple thousand miles ago. Anyway, I either need the pulley/nut, or I'd take a whole pump at this stage. Trying to find one online with no success, and there are zero EA 82 Subies in the salvage yards around here. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Eric
  15. Thanks guys. No luck with a paint code. I reckon it's 50/50. Unless someone knows which of the two blues Lake Metallic and Saphire Metallic is darker?
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