DaveT

I think they are steel. I never saw any mention of anyone replacing one. Just clean up the edge. I wouldn't touch the bore, unless it's got damage.

ok, If the others look that good, it was probably a local failure that killed only that one. Just fix what's broken.

Yeah, not much to see removing the pan. Other than the bottom of the pan. Dropping in a decent cam, and the other small bits at least isn't a big investment in time or $. I might be tempted to try it, if it does turn out to just be a failure there, saves a lot of $ and work. Actually, how do the other cam lobes look? I'd expect all of them to be damaged if it was run low for a long time.

The engine is non-interference, that just saves the valves from being hit by the pistons if a timing belt breaks. If it was run low enough of oil to cause that damage, I think it would be pretty well trashed everywhere else. I wouldn't consider buying a reman head. Get a whole junkyard engine. Or 2. Less work. Or do the swap. More work.

They have the door open thing, but it is only active when the key is on. Non powered belts ones don't have the drain problem.

The patent for the Zerk fitting was granted to Oscar U. Zerk in January 1929.

I think you have to take the cam carrier off. People have replaced head gaskets in car. I don't do it that way, I remove the engine. Never had a reason to only pull the cams. That is one unusual failure you have. Each valve has 2 springs, one inside the other. this is done for high RPM / resonance reasons. Begin keeping an eye out for spare parts, engines, etc. Lots of parts are NLA.

I've had the dome light switch turned off for years, as they are parked in my garage, and I got used to leaving the door unlatched, or even the back open for loading / unloading. One of mine had a flaky dome light switch, so I always had it shut off. I just got used to that, not worrying about closing the door at home. Well, when I typically drove one or the other [I have 2] every other day, the 160mA isn't noticeable, unless you measure with a DVM. Anyway, with the current situation, I've been driving once a week, maybe twice. So I go out the other day, turn the key, and NOTHING happens, not even a click.

Made a discovery - In the wagons with the annoying power shoulder belts. If you leave the driver's door slightly open, the control system draws 160mA indefinitely, draining the battery over the course of a few days. Just another reason to replace them with manual ones.

Zerk. It's the grease fitting. Upper right arm of the cross in the picture above.

That's the fun of these old cars. Have to collect spare cars, parts, watch ebay, forums, etc.

By about a half inch, IIRC.... Older GLs, that were essentially the same 86-87 - the 4WD front struts had adjustable height, the perch could be adjusted over about 1" of range. If you search long and hard, you might find those, but they also probably will cost more than the typical in between the extremes aftermarket struts. Those are pretty hard to find also.

They are NLA. Only chance is to get very lucky and find one on ebay, or someone on a forum like this who is done with that engine style. Or machine one from a block of aluminum. Use extreme care getting the old one out.

A good locksmith might be able to make a key. These old cars are a challenge to keep running - you have to diy, or have big wads of cash when you find someone specialized enough to want to touch them. Collect spare parts, make parts, etc...

I much prefer the factory service manuals, but I got them when the cars were only a couple years old.... Now, you have to watch ebay, and these forums for anyone deciding to move onto newer vehicles.

The ignition switch is the one turned by the key. The switch part is inside straight in from where the key hole is. I am not specifically familiar with the 82s. But the coil hot side (+) side should have 12V with the key on with anything older than 1994 Loyales anyway. The (-) side of the coil is switched by the points, Electronic ignition, or the ECU depending on what system they used. Do you know the engine type? It's a number on the bell housing, like EA71, EA81, EA82

It could be done with small relays. And a few diodes.

FSM page -

My 86 FSM shows the toe and camber adjustments using the 3 bolts. They do interact. I got lucky when I corrected the toe on mine, didn't have to fight with a bunch of interaction. Yes, they don't move much, but apparently, they have a noticeable effect. With them as far out as you have, you don't have much to loose trying to adjust them. They are a pain, you have to pull the tire off to really get at them. At least get the bolts freed and anti siezed , then start trying to get the angles set. I can try to scan the page tomorrow.

The ride height might mess with that some. In your pic of the wheel, it looks like it's leaning in at the top, that's opposite of where mine are, unless I have a really heavy load of stuff in the back. [I have mine set on the highest notch on the rear shocks] Worth checking the bushings too. The big tube that all the rear suspension bolts to - make sure it's not rotted out.

Here it is -

I had a thread / post about this, and a rig to DIY. The only adjustment is the 3 bolts on the trailing arm.

I was only thinking of the wagons, I edited my post, don't want anyone confused.

I am pretty sure - for wagons only - 86 through 94 are the same. Drum brakes, rear, 4wd vs fwd no difference. Somewhere before 86, they were not auto adjusting, but the difference a hole in the shoes, and a couple of other parts. I never compared the cylinders.

Look for loose connections?