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Al Zhiemer

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Al Zhiemer last won the day on January 23

Al Zhiemer had the most liked content!

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About Al Zhiemer

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Southside Queensland
  • Referral
  • Biography
    Live, breath, repair and repeat
  • Vehicles
    92 Subaru Brumby

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  1. Volt meter won't necessarily show a dead battery, it may still show that the battery is holding 12 volts but won't tell you if the battery has a collapsed cell. Best way to really tell is to have your battery load tested. Recharge your battery and then take it down to an automotive electrician and get them to test it, this will show whether or not the battery is holding enough charge to start your car. More than likely, when you shorted the battery it has discharged it and all it needs is a good charge and see how it goes. Cheers, Al
  2. Al Zhiemer

    replace struts

    You'll find KYB struts on ebay by the hundreds also. Also noticed they had hieght adjustable KYB fronts as well, which reminds me, I need to go and buy a set. Cheers, Al
  3. Al Zhiemer

    R.I.P. Ruby-Doo

    Yeah, I may join a photo share site one day but I'm not overly keen on using them. I do use Onedrive and it shows up on my screen that the images are there but apparently no one else can see them but it could also be the PC operator as well doing something wrong. Will see what happens. Cheers, Al
  4. Well there you go, I didn't know about the design rule thing, that's interesting. I figured and most other people I've spoken to about this have the same opinion, that it was due to the fitment of the V8 diesel as that seemed to coincide with when the difference occurred in the wheel track. Am going to have to do some research on this as its the first I've ever heard of it. Nice work el_freddo, thinking we need to change your name to wikifreddo. Cheers, Al
  5. Many vehicles have a narrower wheel track rear to front, both the new Landcruiser and the older Ford F100/150 (I think by memory the F150 was 15mm narrower at the rear compared to the front) had a narrower wheel track at the rear than the front.The new V8 Landcruisers where so bad that on soft sand you could watch the rear end shake its booty as the rear wheels fought over which wheel was going to follow the front wheel tracks. It may affect the areo to some extent but on these old girls, I'd doubt you would feel the difference. Most high performance sports cars have a wider track at the rear than the front, particularly mid/rear engine mounted vehicles Handling issues may arise if the rear track is off center or camber, caster and toe-in/out was incorrect but that would be a fabrication thing mostly. Cheers, Al
  6. Al Zhiemer

    R.I.P. Ruby-Doo

    Yeah, sand blasting can cause more damage than its worth if you don't take your time but in my opinion, its still the best way to clean up rust and show how much cancer is really hidden under the paint work. Complete under carriage is being sand blasted, its covered in surface rust and any of the areas that are either rusted (To my knowledge I have to sections of semi severe rust, at the back of the cabin where the tray meets and a small section in the drivers foot well) or starting to are also being done. The body panels on these old girls is just not heavy enough to cope with the stress of a complete head to toe sand blast. I restored an old Landcruiser years ago and completely sand blasted the entire cabin, I swore after I finished blasting that old girl I would never do sand blasting again, the old saying about damn sand gets everywhere most definitely is true when it comes to sand blasting. I discovered even on that old pig you could only blast small sections at a time to help prevent the warping/rippling of the panels. Have also found that using walnut/almound shells as your blasting medium causes far less damage as well. He's a good mate, known each other for about 35 yrs now (Holy crap, working out how long we've known each other has just all of a sudden made me feel old LOL), we have been through hell and back with each other and to be honest, the only person I would trust with my life. He mostly works from home with 90% of his work being restoration work on older model Holdens and Fords. A couple of years ago he offered me space to build my own 6M X 6M shed on his property for myself to use as storage and a workshop, am seriously considering it now as I'm fast running out of room here and all I have to pay for is the shed and concrete slab. Another mate of mine in Toowoomba who is a qualified sparky will come down and wire it all up on the cheap. The bonus is that if I go through with it, the only conditions he has set is that I have to put a hoist in. What a bugger, having to install a hoist in a shed at my disposal. Seems a reasonable request considering that the shed will be mine to use for as long as I want rent free Cheers, Al
  7. Al Zhiemer

    R.I.P. Ruby-Doo

    Its already happening, have dropped the replacement front fenders and bonnet off at my mates panel shop. Engine bay is almost completely stripped out ready, motor and gearbox come out today and she gets picked up at the end of the week to be delivered to the sand blasters. Have ordered the steel to make up a rotisserie to put Ruby on so she can be moved and have the underside painted as well. This was always the plan, this year was meant to be the EJ conversion year and next year was going to be the body. With me now heading back to work, I get to spend very limited time at home to be able to work on her but my mate has no problem with keeping her in his workshops for the next 12 months while body work gets done and the EJ gets transplanted so that makes my life a little easier. All the engine mounts where checked and in good working order, I did notice that nut loose on one of the engine mounts but I made sure to tighten both of those before reinstalling the engine and gearbox and have been checked since. You can definitely feel something is not right in the front end, it's almost as if a wheel bearing has collapsed but they have all been replaced less than 7,000 km ago, once I've done the complete tear down I'll investigate further and see what/if I can find anything. At the moment, its got me completely stumped and I'm out of time. Cheers, Al
  8. https://www.graysonline.com/lot/0001-7735424/motor-vehiclesmotor-cycles/1994-subaru-gl-sports-l-series-4wd-wagon?spr=true
  9. Well the time has come, after spending well over $3000 on Ruby in the last couple of months, finally get her back on the road to only have 2 days of trouble free motoring, it seems I'm making no progress. Its time to let Ruby die a peaceful death. The last couple of months have just been one problem after another with her, I fix one thing, she breaks somewhere else. At the moment she has developed another REALLY bad vibration, seems non related to the original vibration that I set out to fix. And this one is so severe I'm not even game to drive her anymore and I'm out of ideas as to what it could possibly be. Everything has been replaced in the front end, nothing has helped. But its not all bad news... The plan... Take Ruby off the road permanently and do a full restoration job on her, replace every nut and bolt in her and anything that can be rebuilt, will be rebuilt or replaced with new. Remove any rust or dents, straighten the panel work out and a new coat of jam to finish her off. Hopefully within 12 months, Ruby 2.0 will be back on the road and be better than brand new. It looks like my nice low mileage 1290 R is about to start racking up a few extra km's this year Not that the low mileage (1400km's since Jan 2017) has been my choice, stupid bloody job, if they didn't throw so much money at me a week I'd go find something else to do. Not that that seems to work anyway, I've quit 3 times now in the last 2 years and they keep offering me more money to stay. Also on the upside, the north Queensland trip planned for later this year will now be done on 2 wheels instead of 4 so I can't wait for that, 4 weeks of touring Cape York and the gulf on the bike is going to be awesome!!! Cheers, Al
  10. To my knowledge and I don't know anything but I have wrecked 2 FWD EA81's now and both have had 5 Spd manuals in them (Both have made a new home at the crushers, it isn't really a sought after gearbox over here) so I'm guessing they are out there somewhere. Cheers, Al
  11. A: Axles should be the same. B: Reverse Lights and Speedo Cable will be plug and play. C: Personally don't know, never done a FWD swap. D: Being in the US you only need the standard EA81 clutch pedal box and clutch cable (Apparently). E: 4 Speed has a reputation as a crap gearbox but there are still plenty of them running but stick with the 5 speed. F: You will need to make a Starter Motor spacer. And work you way through any number of other little issues along the way. If you have an EA81, it would be much easier to source a FWD 5 Spd out of an EA81 vehicle than to retro fit an EA82 5 Spd. And if you are going to convert from FWD to 4WD, then yeah, you got a crap load of work ahead of you. Cheers, Al
  12. Al Zhiemer

    Help testing junkyard 5MT from EA82

    What Bennie said, it helps to paint a spline and a matching location on the housing for reference. Makes it much easier to see if it has moved. Cheers, Al On a side note, while you have access to the flywheel, go and get some reflective tape. Cut 4 thin strips, 2 about 5 mm long and another 2 at about 10 mm long. I run Ruby at 12 degrees BTDC, I've placed the two long ones at 0 and 12 degrees BTDC and the other two shorter ones on 10 and 14 degrees BTDC. The timing light picks these locators up beautifully. I've used paint before and that works well but the reflective tape makes it far easier to see.
  13. Al Zhiemer

    Brat 5 Lug Conversion

    Kuhmo, Toyo, Maxxis, Nankang and a couple of others I can't remember off of the top of my head all make an all terrain or mud terrain tyre in 14". Most of them are no longer available in some countries, like here in Aus, but are still available in some places. Interco use to also make some nice 14" tyres but I don't see them on their website anymore but you may find some old stock around somewhere. Cheers, Al.
  14. Al Zhiemer

    Random oil burn/plug foul

    It could be valve stem seals, usually the first sign is blue smoke on start up, unusual for valve stem seals to just collapse like that. Even when parked on a level surface, it should still blow some blue smoke. If its an intermittent issue, it may be worth popping the rocker covers off and checking that one of the valve stem seals hasn't moved the next time it happens. Have you tried parking the opposite way around to see if it affects both banks of cylinders? Does it do it when parked on any angle with the left side lower than the right? Has the engine got above normal operating temp? Cheers, Al
  15. Also check out Recoil Thread Repair kits, I prefer these over heli-coil. I find they give a far more secure thread when finished. Sound like they are very similar to the ones DaveT mentioned. They are a great spark plug repair if it ever strips out. Just make sure you have them seated properly because once they are in, they are there to stay. Learnt this the hard way. Cheers, Al