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Al Zhiemer

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Al Zhiemer last won the day on January 23

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About Al Zhiemer

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Southside Queensland
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  • Biography
    Live, breath, repair and repeat
  • Vehicles
    92 Subaru Brumby

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  1. Al Zhiemer

    Right Weber for 86 Brat?

    I wasn't ready to do the EJ conversion, am still not happy about doing it either but while its stripped down I may as well. Main reason is you just can't get the parts to rebuild the EA81, otherwise it would still be there. Cheers, Al
  2. Al Zhiemer

    Right Weber for 86 Brat?

    Well, in that case I couldn't have been using the EA82 manifold because I was running power steering. Sure I swapped over to the EA82 manifold... Anywho... All is good, EJ22 is sitting in there now :-) Cheers, Al
  3. Al Zhiemer

    Right Weber for 86 Brat?

    I'm sure there is info on this somewhere but I'm not sure where I found it but do a google search and I'm sure it will pop up somewhere. Don't quote me 100% on this but this is how I remember it. There are two different base plate adapters available for the EA81 manifold/weber conversion, to my memory it had something to do with the measurements of the inlet manifold stud placement. If I remember I will measure the manifolds I have here as I'm sure I have both manifolds and post up what I find. The theory is that the EA82 is the better manifold, can't comment as to the truth of it because I've never seen dyno sheets to prove one way or the other. I had one laying around and chucked it on anyway. I seem to remember that the larger stud placement manifolds for the EA81 is also the same as the EA82 manifold, like I said, I may not be entirely accurate on it all. It was a long time ago that I done this conversion. Something I was going to look at oneday, you can actually buy a top for the weber that allows the air to be drawn in from the side which would make for an easy snorkel fitment or placement for an airbox in another location. Having a larger enclosed filter in an airbox was the way I was going to go. I haven't had any issues with hood clearance and don't see why anyone else would. The only thing I did loose was my manual choke, I elected to stay as a manual choke set up as I prefer them over electric but that's personal preference. She can be a bit temperamental in the cold to start sometimes but generally, two pumps on the throttle and turn the key, she fires into life and with a little bit of lite throttle control for a few seconds to clear her throat, it'll idle away and warm up while I get my spoob together to go. Cheers, Al
  4. Al Zhiemer

    Sticker removal

    A garment/clothes steamer works a treat usually to get the bulk of it off and then a product called "Oomph" is great to finish off with to remove the sticky residue. Not sure what the equivalent would be called over there. The steamer is also the best way of removing old window tint as well. Cheers, Al
  5. Al Zhiemer

    Brat LHD to RHD conversion?

    From previous experience importing GTR's into Australia, it isn't all that difficult but the taxes... They were the bloody killer!!! Shipping and insurance wasn't so bad if you go roll on/roll off, shipping in a container can get pretty bloody expensive. All up including shipping, taxes and compliancing, it usually added an extra $5,000 - $10,000. Back then, if it cost you $18,000 to buy the car, it usually owed you between $25,000 and $28,000 landed and ready for market. After it was all said and done, there was at least $7,000 min. profit per car so it wasn't a bad way to make a few extra bucks on the side and drive some really cool cars :-) What was also another killer that I almost got caught out on the first time was RWC items. Rediculously, when a vehicle comes into Australia and goes through compliancing/RWC, if items need to be replaced, they must be replaced with factory original items. So things like brakes can become a real issue, GTR's being fitted with Brembo brakes, it meant they had to be fitted with factory Nissan items or Brembo original pads and rotors only. Aftermarket pads and rotors were not acceptable. Back then, they were talking figures of between $1,750 and $2,500 and upwards for new pads and rotors and god help you if you needed calipers rebuilding. That quickly chews into the profit margin. Especially if there were any other faults that needed attending to. Now we have no vehicle manufacturing left in Australia, its going to be very interesting to see if the plans to open up the importation laws as much as they reckon go ahead. There are some WAY cool cars in Japan just begging to be brought to Australia. Oh... And speaking of roo's writing cars and themselves off. I've hit several over the years, been lucky to get away with minor damage in all of them bar one. And you guessed it, nailed one in my own personal 97 R33 GTR V-Spec II. Nothing I could do about it, halfway through a bend, came out of no where and bang. I can remember watching his legs fold over the bonnet, his body slam into the bonnet and thinking to myself, "spoob, he's about to come through the windscreen". Sat back in my seat as far as I could, closed my eyes and waited for the glass shower to stop. How he never hit me I will never know, the complete drivers half of the windscreen was completely missing, regurgitated grass was all through the car everywhere!!! Took weeks to get that spoob off the dash and out of the seats. All up, complete front end including rad support panel, left and right headlights, bonnet, wiper arms, windscreen and also damage to the roof where it got peeled back a couple of inches as the Roo went over the roof. All up from memory, about $15,000 in parts and labour to repair my pride and joy. And yes ladies and gentle man, all that damage was caused by hitting one of those big bastards at 100 km/h - 105 km/h. Thankfully at the time I had GPS proving that for the whole 700 km trip up until that point, I hadn't exceeded 115 km/h. And FFS don't hit a wombat, those fuckers will really ruin your day!!! Sorry, off topic I know. Cheers, Al
  6. Just so I can be first... There is plenty of info about this if you use the search feature. But seriously, very easy conversion to do, these are the parts I used and a rough guide on how I went about it. The 5 speed will bolt directly up to the EA81 engine, so no problems there. I'm using the EA81 starter motor and built a spacer to go between the bell housing and the starter motor as the starter motor needs to sit out from the bell housing by about 4mm. Some solve this option by spacing it out with washers but I wasn't to keen on that idea. With the tailshaft, you have 2 options, get the EA81 4 speed tailshaft modified to suit or use the 5 speed tailshaft. The 5 speed tailshaft does have a centre bearing that you will have to figure out how to mount, different people have different ideas on how this should be done, some cut the mounts out of the 5 speed and weld in to place, others just make brackets and mount directly to the floor. I opted for the second option and also reinforced the floor with some 3mm plate steel to give it a bit of extra strength. For the clutch, I was lucky enough to have the larger diameter flywheel for the EA81, somebody will correct me but I think the clutch surface measures around the 225mm's. I used this flywheel, EA81 clutch plate, EA82 pressure plate and EA82 throw out bearing. Clutch seems to work fine at this stage and its well over half worn. You will have to get the lip of the flywheel where the pressure plate bolts to machined down as it is higher and the EA82 pressure plate won't function properly. Use the 5 speed gear selector linkages for the gear selection, the 4WD selector is a combination of the original 4 speed and the 5 speed. Apart from having to mount the 5 speed shifter, this pretty much fits perfect. Now the 4WD linkages are a little different, once you have worked out the length the linkage needs to be, cut both linkages and weld back together, the reason for having to do this, is that the 5 speed gearbox attatches differently to the 4 speed at the gearbox end and the 4 speed connects differently to the 5 speed at the shifter end. If its left hand drive, I don't think you have to worry about changing the clutch cable. The next thing is to workout how to attatch the gearbox to the sub frame, once again, a bit of scrap metal floating around, a quick buzz with the welder and brackets are made. As for the 4WD dash lights and reverse lights, a quick test with either a test light or multimeter will solve that quick smart. I'm sure somebody will correct me but if its left hand drive, I don't think you need to modify the pedal box or the clutch cable to fit the 5 speed in to the EA81. Now each to their own and at the time I done my conversion I had the complete engine, gearbox and sub frame dropped so it was all just sitting out in the open. I would suggest that this is the easiest way if you have never done it before, you can get a good clean look at everything and see what exactly has to be done, the conversion itself is extremely easy. Take your time, check everything twice and then another 2 more times before you start cutting and welding or bolting everything into place. Cheers, Al
  7. Al Zhiemer

    How hard is the weber to install?

    Piece of cake. Once I got all the lines connected up that I need to run, I removed everything else so you can't see any other anti-pollution crap that should be under there but isn't hooked up. Plan all your vacuum line placement before removing anything, depending on how and where you want to run your new vacuum and fuel lines, it may pay to go and get what you think you will need before you start. Depending on the adapter being used, pay particular attention to how it mounts and make sure it covers the water jacket in the manifold. Cheers, Al
  8. Al Zhiemer

    Need help finding dash cover protector

    I bought a FWD only sedan here in Aus, it had the exact same boot around the gear lever and that car was 100% original. Think I still have it floating around in amongst all my spares somewhere. Still think that little speaker grille would fit the RHD models, I'd certainly like to get my hands on one and check it out that's for sure. It would make a great place to hide the external speaker for the UHF. Cheers, Al
  9. Al Zhiemer

    Carb connector

    This is really easy to solve... Ditch it and buy a weber, problem solved LOL Cheers, Al
  10. Al Zhiemer

    Air bubbles in radiator

    Rather than using a stop leak, try using pepper, as in salt and pepper pepper. If its only a small leak, pepper can seal it up enough to at least help diagnose the problem but apart from being either a head gasket problem or a cracked head/block, no other way air can be pumped into the system as previously stated. You can buy a test kit from some parts store that from memory wasn't all that expensive and it will tell you if exhaust gasses are getting in to your cooling system. Cheers, Al
  11. Correct, 3903 is decoded as you stated. I'll have a dig through my book collection oneday when I'm home and have the time but I have a book I bought several years ago, it's part training manual that goes in to a lot of detail about tyre technology but its best feature is that it lists pretty much every rim and tyre combination that was available for almost everything that roles on tyres. Stud patterns, offsets, rim diameters and widths are all listed, is a fantastic reference for checking what rims will fit what cars. When I can dig it out, I'll get the name of it and where you can purchase it from if anyone is interested. Cheers, Al
  12. The average life span of a tyre is a maximum of 6 years as recommended by the manufacturer, regardless of the condition of the tyre, even brand new tyres that have never been fitted. I'm pretty sure that here in Australia, it is even illegal for a tyre dealer to sell tyres older than five years old. In the case of an accident and an insurance inspector that knows his stuff, discovers tyres older than 6 years fitted to your vehicle can be enough to make your insurance null and void. In most cases but not all, it is about the outer blocks on the tyre, usually they will have larger blocks on the outside of the tyre, this is to create stability in cornering as a smaller tread block will allow the tread to move around under cornering load. A lot of tyre manufactures actually use a staggered outer tread pattern, for several different reasons, starting with smaller blocks and increase in size in several different stages. This allows them to have the best of both worlds, more sipes for clearing water, larger blocks to help prevent the tread from moving and also helps in reducing road noise created by the tyre. Thats my understanding of it anyway. And even with 50 series tyres, I'd suggest that 36 psi is to high and would probably drop back to 32 psi as there isn't a whole lot of weight on the tyre to make it bulge/flatten out. Higher pressures won't allow the contact area to maintain grip especially in cornering situations because there is no give in the sidewall allowing it to flex under load, just like low pressures can have a negative effect on vehicle handling, so to can over inflation. Start playing with cold tyre pressures a bit more as tyres will react differently to both pressure and weight, sometimes even half a psi can make a world of difference and enable you to find the sweet spot for the tyre and vehicle combination. Same as winter and summer temperatures can have an effect on what pressure you should be running. Cheers, Al
  13. Al Zhiemer

    Fuel tank clogged

    Probably going to be a lot of people not agree to this but have you tried filling the lines with oil or even some WD40 or similar product? Occasionally giving it a good soak with something to soften up the corrosion for a day or two before you hit it with compressed air will make all the difference. Have also had some pretty good results using Eucalyptus oil on corrosion as well. Cheers, Al
  14. Al Zhiemer

    1985 Brat carb issues

    Check for an exhaust leak where the header pipe/manifold connects to the head. Had a similar issue with Ruby when I first got her, wasn't to bad at first but progressively got worse. Got around to fixing the exhaust leak and has been fine ever since. Cheers, Al
  15. Volt meter won't necessarily show a dead battery, it may still show that the battery is holding 12 volts but won't tell you if the battery has a collapsed cell. Best way to really tell is to have your battery load tested. Recharge your battery and then take it down to an automotive electrician and get them to test it, this will show whether or not the battery is holding enough charge to start your car. More than likely, when you shorted the battery it has discharged it and all it needs is a good charge and see how it goes. Cheers, Al