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Found 9 results

  1. Basically.... About 3 weeks ago car was intermittent no start. Cranking was rough/rumbly and gas pedal hadda be teased in order for it to sometimes start. Attached a missing ground strap and car was reliable for a few weeks. Still had a bit of a rough/rumbly start but at least started and drove. It ran fine, but I pulled the motor for HG job and no spark after re-install. Tested coil pack resistance, tested bad. Swapped coil pack....didn't help. Power to coil pack, no signal to coil pack. Crank sensor & cam sensors pass resistance tests. Checked wiring to ECU, passed. Reinstalled ECU, engine started and ran for 15 seconds including idling and revs but no issue was actually solved... But we reinstalled accessories. Again, no spark, no signal to coil. Fuses tested/examined, so not a fuse. It's a 2001 Subary Legacy Outback 2.5/EJ25. Any advice on what might be going on or how to test the ECU would be great help.
  2. So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual
  3. Hello all! I'm new to the forum, and hoping to learn a bit about 1st generation Subaru Legacys. I currently own an '01 Outback L.L. Bean, and have begun to look into acquiring a second car. I'm looking for a car I can modify, and have some fun with. The 1st generation turbo Legacy is appealing. My questions are: *What are common problems I should be on the look for when buying? *Does anyone have a suggested price range? *Any maintenance that should be done as soon as I get the car? (Aside from basics - fluids, belts, etc.) *Any fun modifications anyone can recommend? I have some light mechanical experience with my L.L. Bean, and I want to learn more. *Any and all information/links/files are all appreciated. Thank you!
  4. I have a 1991 Subaru Liberty which was owned by my Great Aunt from new. Its first fuel pump lasted about 19 years. We have had the car since 2009 and it has had 4 fuel pumps in that time, now requiring its 5th. I've used original and non-original parts and nothing seems to make any difference. Between 12 and 16 months the fuel pump stops working. The car does approximately 4000kms a year and has done 137,000 in total. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? One faulty fuel pump I could understand. But I cannot understand 5. This is my first ever post on any type of forum so I apologise if I've posted in the wrong area or done something else that's incorrect. Many thanks. Zara
  5. Hi. car was running fine with some bugs to be tuned. It first started when i cleaned the maf and ground points, car was running like crap but no misfire just bad idle that cleared after 3000 rpm later that night i started the car and magically it was all good but i did notice that the car was running very rich, 12-12.5 at idle, i went for a ride and afr was stable at 11-11.2 all the time then after 8 miles suddently misfired and its ran like it was only with 2 pistons. went to the mechanic and they found out that pistons 1 and 3 where off. So we took out the spark plugs and the right side ones were completly black and soaked in gas and the left side were almost like new. No cell, but days before got misfire con cylinder 1,3,4 Later we did this with no result: Changed spark plugs Changed coils Changed maf sensor Checked injector pluse Checked coil with plug for spark Checked timing Checked ground Checked compression (140 psi on all 4) What could possibly be shutting down one side of the engine ? please help beacuse we have no clue. Mods are: wallbro 255 fuel pump ID 1000cc top feed conversion with fuel lines, stock FRP (recently installed) Ks tech big maf short ram itanke Blouch dom 3xtr Gt spec header with invidia turbo back exhaust Big top mount intercooler Ecu reflash Wiseco pistons (recently installed) Manley rods Ported head (recently installed) GSC 272 cams (recently installed) GSC Valves (recently installed) GSC springs and retainers (recently installed) Car was breaking in new pistons, just traveled 20 miles no wot
  6. So, ive spent the last 2 weeks either waiting for parts or having to return parts because my local auto parts store always orders the wrong thing. Only to run into problems with the finished project... Here is the run down. Its an EA82 1985 subaru gl station wagon. Recent headgasket failure ( cracked heads ) non existent choke, and possibly a bad starter, and bad breaks. So i recently bought re manufactured heads, and a weber carb, and some shiny new brakes. My subi will be perfect after this! IF i can get it running. Here is what I'm 99% sure of. The cams are timed, the distributor is timed, ( enough to start ) and in correct rotation for TDC ( I have rotated it 180 degrees as i made that mistake and troubleshooted that issue. ) I have gas ( 2.5 psi worth from the fuel line ) I'm 90% sure i have no vacuum leak from the intake. as there is good vacuum there. I have excellent compression on all my heads. ( 120-140 ) So i think i have narrowed it down to spark. Which i have, on all wires but... The only thing i have to suspect is my ignition coil reads a little under spec, and my ignition control module reads as having interference. ( which it shouldn't ) But as i have spark im not sure if that matters. The other fishy thing is that my carb seems to spray alittle gas up through the choke butterfly as it turns over. It is so close to starting its not funny. But it just wont get there. Its just not catching/starting. Please help! I'm at wits end and i need this thing running before the end of the week.
  7. (Apologies in advance for a LONG post; sorry, guys, but there's no other way.) Hey guys, I'm looking for some feedback on a couple of issues I'm having with a used 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.2L sedan w/ 119K miles I bought just 4 days ago (the very end of 2013). My wife and I paid a premium for this car over the KBB estimate because it had a 12+ year comprehensive service history from the local Subaru dealership. The CL listing stated the following: Dealer maintained, Major Services done, Clean! A rare find! Well maintained with TONS of dealership service. All major maintanences have been done including timing belt and head gaskets. This Impreza has also been inspected by our licensed Subaru technicians. The timing belt & head gasket work was what caught my eye; the sales guy gave me copies of the service history for this car going back to 2002. All work was either done at the dealership (for things like oil changes and some CEL work in 2002) or at a nearby Subaru shop with a great reputation for the 50K, 90K, and 105K scheduled maintenance. ISSUE #1: The Subaru shop confirmed that they changed timing belts at 90K, but there's no record of them or the dealership ever having done the head gaskets. So, unless the previous owner had them done somewhere else (highly unlikely since like clockwork she only used these 2 shops for 12+ years with regular records on CarFax), it seems that the head gaskets have NOT been changed. What should I do about this? Unless the dealership can prove that this work has been done, I think they either need to replace the gaskets as advertised, or warranty that if the gaskets ever do fail, they will do all necessary repairs for free. ISSUE #2: When I did my first walkaround of the car, I noticed that the gas cap was missing. I told the sales guy at his desk and he said: "Yeah, I got it from the back." However, the cap is an older, non-OEM brand, and the CEL has been turning on intermittently for the last 2 days, presumably because of this. When I mess with the gas cap, the light goes off, but it keeps coming back on. Now, the CEL may *not* be due to the gas cap (I'd need to see what the code is), so who knows. I'm also concerned that 4 days off the lot the CEL is turning on and off, especially since the dealer had the car for nearly 3 weeks and put it through an inspection by licensed technicians. ISSUE #3: One of the dealer work invoices for December 2013 stated the following: "Abnormal noise while car is rolling - sounds like RR area - Wheel BRG passes preliminary inspection (DIO)". I'm also hearing this noise; it only happens if the car rolls forward very slowly by its own weight/inertia, so I didn't hear it during the test drive. If it's under power then you don't hear it. Seems to me that since the dealership spotted this during their 11 point inspection, they should have addressed the issue. DISCLAIMER: I understand that when you buy a used car, you're rolling the dice. But in my defense, I bought a car with a solid maintenance history from a Subaru dealership to avoid these kinds of issues. And I don't think it's unrealistic for me to expect the dealership to address these issues. I'm planning to swing by tomorrow morning (1/3/2014).
  8. Half way through a drive I noticed that I had to depress the brake pedal much farther before braking began (they worked fine when I pulled of of my driveway). The brakes acted as if they needed to be bled. I didnt get around to it and a few days later the left rear wheel cylinder broke and by the time I made it home all of the fluid had leaked out of it. I replaced both rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes and bled the brakes at the master cylinder and all wheels in the correct order. Yet in order to get any braking power, i still have to pump the pedal 6-8 times and even then it sucks. Sometimes it pulls hard to the left, sometimes it doesn't. Needless to say, I won't be driving like this. Could this be a problem with the master cylinder? There are no fluid leaks. ANY advice would be appreciated!! Thanks!
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