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Found 7 results

  1. I have looked at all the 1990-1991 sunroof posts and have yet to find any troubleshooting or pinpoint tests for the sunroof electrical circuit. All I see is leak and install issue for the most part. The sunroof worked fine and then just stopped working. I have power coming to my switch and it seems to be coming out as well but If anyone has pinpoint test procedures for the sunroof circuit it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  2. Basically.... About 3 weeks ago car was intermittent no start. Cranking was rough/rumbly and gas pedal hadda be teased in order for it to sometimes start. Attached a missing ground strap and car was reliable for a few weeks. Still had a bit of a rough/rumbly start but at least started and drove. It ran fine, but I pulled the motor for HG job and no spark after re-install. Tested coil pack resistance, tested bad. Swapped coil pack....didn't help. Power to coil pack, no signal to coil pack. Crank sensor & cam sensors pass resistance tests. Checked wiring to ECU, passed. Reinstalled ECU, engine started and ran for 15 seconds including idling and revs but no issue was actually solved... But we reinstalled accessories. Again, no spark, no signal to coil. Fuses tested/examined, so not a fuse. It's a 2001 Subary Legacy Outback 2.5/EJ25. Any advice on what might be going on or how to test the ECU would be great help.
  3. To start off, I don't expect you guys to automatically know whats wrong with my car. I'm partially looking for advice with this thread, but also using it as a journal of sorts to keep track of what I go through with this problem. Anyway, the problem: I bought this car about four months ago for less than two-thousand USD. It's my first car, and I always wanted a wagon, so this was perfect. For about the first month, everything ran smooth. Then, the spark plugs started acting up. Replaced those, and everything was peachy again. Now, about a month after changing the spark plugs, I'm having a problem that's hard to describe. The car will be fine and the transmission will shift as intended, and then all of the sudden, a check engine light comes on and the transmission (I assume) starts to get clunky in a way. It's happened four times now. The first time, I was in a drive through, and the CEL came on. I pulled into the parking lot to inspect things, and could find nothing immediately obvious wrong with the car. It drove as intended for about two miles, and then as I rounded a corner from a stop light, second gear started doing the clunky thing, and wouldn't accelerate past 20 mph. I pulled over, contemplated what I should do, but knew I could do nothing sitting on the side of the road, so I pulled off and headed home as I was only 5 minutes away. It didn't happen again the rest of the way. I drove the car again that night for about ten miles and nothing went wrong, no CEL. A couple days later, I was coming back home from a relatives house, about a 30 minute trip, very heavy traffic, and as I got close to my house, the car didn't want to accelerate again, and was "clunky". Thats the only way I can describe it. This time, it felt like it was every gear doing it. I parked it, shut it off and then turned it back on, and it kept doing it. I got home, and then shut it off and let it sit for about two hours and decided to test it again. It operated as intended. Yesterday, I made the same trip, but went out of my way to avoid traffic. As I neared my house, the CEL popped on, but nothing notable with the transmission happened. As of this post, I just ran the car from a cold start to operating temperature to check the transmission fluid, and to me, it seemed low. I filled it to approximately the full mark for a hot temperatures and ran it again to double check the level. I scoured the internet since the first hiccup, and came across a thread that pointed to possibly a grounding issue with the transmission. It half-way described my problem, but my grounds seem okay, even after unbolting and rebolting them, but I won't rule it out, For now, I'm going to assume (and pray) that the low dexon level was my problem. I'll post again if I have more issues. Feel free to reply with advice, it's all appreciated
  4. BLUF: Could failing/poorly functioning catalytic converter be related to/caused by previous gasket head cracks or by repair work done to replace cracked gasket head?? Mechanically challenged 08 Forester owner here. A few months ago, we found out that the gasket head was cracked. Right after we picked it up, we noticed that it seemed to have less power and, very obviously, the gas mileage was lower. The repair shop did not believe (or at least admit) that there was any connection between the replaced gasket head work and the substantial reduction (I calculated it to be about 3-5 MPG difference) in fuel efficiency. Three months after the repairs, the check engine lights came on. The repair shop advised that the sensors showed that the catalytic converter was failing/had failed. They said there was little difference in temperatures going in and going out of the catalytic converter system (I'm simplifying what they said but that sums it up). I asked about whether it could be caused by the engine not "burning" all of the gas, but they said that if that were the case the error codes would be different. And that I need a new catalytic converter. I'm hesitant to shell out the cost without knowing why it failed (so that it doesn't fail again and I'm looking at buying another one. Is there a way to determine why the CC failed? Should I take it for a second opinion? What other questions should I ask? Many thanks in advance for your help.
  5. So I had replaced the thermostat the first time and a couple of months later it was overheating again- usually after it had been running off and on that day. short 10-20 minute trips. doing fine, then temp gauge shoots up and it doesnt come down till I turn it off. The heat might not work as well. Ive burped it by the manual a couple of times since the 2nd thermostat (from Subaru- amazing how much better it is). It is doing it again. It doesn't seem super hot- there is no steam and it smells ok. the radiator may be hot or it may be warm. I may keep the fans running and it'll cool down pretty quickly. burp it again and it does it again. no leaks of coolant or oil as far as I can tell. ANY IDEAS(besides head gasket)?
  6. My 1998 Forester (manual trans) runs great, but began OVERHEATING a few months ago. the heater wouldn't work either. I replaced the thermostat (seriously! that's not the best placement for a part that should be an easy fix). It was working fine for a couple of months and it has suddenly began to overheat again. It will be fine, then suddenly start to climb to the RED zone and beyond. Heater won't put out heat generally when this happens. It rectified itself a couple of times, but then would begin to overheat again. it seems like the coolant is not circulating when this happens as the radiator is not very hot and the upper radiator hose is soft and not very hot either. the engine doesn't feel particularly hot when I hold my hand over it either, and it smells pretty normal. no fluid leaks noticeable. the fans are running fine. It seems it cools down pretty quick when I stop for a bit. What is up? is the water pump going out? was the thermostat i bought defective? please give me constructive suggestions how to troubleshoot this so I don't go replacing parts I don't have to.
  7. So I just got this 1996 subaru impreza, and I can't get it to start. It runs on starter fluid fine and we aren't getting any sort of fuel out of the fuel line. I pulled the fuel pump tonight and I was curious if I could bench test it somehow? It looks pretty bad it is covered in rust but it might still be good. Also if anybody knows any weak points in the fuel system that would warrant looking at I would appreciate it. I am fairly new to this and so I am trying to learn as I go. (note: if there is any way of checking the relays wthout having to pull them out of the car or maybe the easiest way to pull one out.)
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