Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

19 Good

About scalman

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Referral
    searched stuff about subaru , lifting, offroad.
  • Biography
    male, from lithuania. like adventures, camping, cars, off road,
  • Vehicles
    Subaru Outback 2001/11 2.5AT , VDC
  1. scalman

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    was in local forester metting but they took other subarus as well. was me in obk and other impreza. all others different gens forester. was fun times just no mud as its very dry and hot summer for now . still we found some cool places. now i know how good my front bumper is that is cut. just rear is getting in the way on more angles . but point is to have as much stock looking car as its possible. but you can do lots mods under those plastic bumpers
  2. yh problem that gearbox braking or stucking on low gear its not good thing. guess gearbox is not made to do that . so thats that another thing is that thing you welded there is recovery point ? its strong enough so you could recover all car from mud and such by this ?
  3. yes you right i just cant go through harsh road on higher speed or i will be hearing loud metal bang noise everytime i hit something. thats so bad feeling . well i maaxed out mine stock struts now with no sway bars they articulate pretty well on going slow, im faster loosing power to go somewhere then i loose traction. i have too much traction and too weak power on wheels there. engine cant even turn wheels with auto. its just sits there and do nothing. your H6 should give you some more i guess and you love momentum too. i would choose more power vs long travel. at least some +100hp that would be great. and manual with lower gear then normal dual range can give.
  4. scalman

    Outback '01 2'' lift . am i getting most of it ?

    didint saw any oil weep or something there. cant be sure though. the way i see it maybe im wrong but thats how i think there so sway bars keep struts in their working lenght and no more. lift makes them work harder still not maxing . and no sway bars just let them travel so much more that they hit limit ... maybe im wrong , but long travel struts dont have any bang sounds. had some fun in subaru meeting. not bad articulation for stock struts
  5. scalman

    Outback '01 2'' lift . am i getting most of it ?

    what about when you remove sway bars and your struts now have too much travel and they maxing out and you here that loud metal bang sound everytime. is it supose to be because too much travel freedom they have or thats because they already wear off and need to be changed ? i understand by logic that if i go faster and suddenly wheel have lots drop down it will drop and reach its limits and with that it will hit that bang soung. its very loud and bad sound. seems like something broke there. but its not.
  6. if i could ask something as you made lots stuff for cars suspension i was wondering why go for very expensive long travel version ? so no cheap or any other version like to take longer struts from other car , they could not fit right away but everything can be redone. is there any reason subarus cant use any other car struts in front and rear ? like no longer struts then ours ? i mean where is problem to just cut out other car strut mounting points and weld new ones, make new top mountings shame subaru got so small support. did you saw renault/dacia duster model that is similar size as forester and its AWD as well with traction control and thy got both lockers and longer shocks for them. like 5cm longer so no need any strut spacers and stuff. poor subaru just have nothing.
  7. scalman

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    so i guess i was driving all this time with slightly wrong timing belt markings. after i redone it its now drives as new car nothing like it was before. now it jumps from place and no more slugish feeling. amazing that its so simple to fix yourself. more easier because i have SOHC there and not DOHC had great time in forest exploring some long forgotten paths and found some fallen trees there
  8. scalman

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    VDC likes the sand and finds way out. and it likes good grippy tires like bfg ta ko2.
  9. scalman

    Automatic with bigger tires?

    issue will be loss power and torque to wheels. bigger they are weaker car will become.
  10. scalman

    Automatic transmission for offload, locking center diff, let's talk

    nobody talked here about using 1st gear on those older 4eat helps a lot . 1st gear kinda locks center too or locks it quicker and better then other gears. some say you need to push it at some revs for it to lock there. still 1st gear does good job on later models as well .
  11. when i bought my 01' outback steering rack was fine . that was about 3 yrs ago. since then i lifted car with strut spacers 5cm. and now not so long ago removed front sway bar as well. struts not changed dont know nothing about them maybe they not changed at all, could be still oems. so that steering rack started to feel some knocking looseness inside some time ago. back then i did had front sway bar in. its become more and more loose feeling till now. its not ends that loose. its inside steering rack. it making that knock knock sound when you drive it on some worse roads. wheel inside car handles ok still but if you lift car and move wheel to sides its knocking very clear now. its become worse last couple month. some guy told me its becouse i lifted it and removed sway bars so now other parts have more preasure on them. not sure about that but steering rack loose its reality. still thinking of maybe try that large bolt that have small bolt inside it . like try to tension it more. but i cant get to it as it is. guess i need to remove or at least lower steering rack down a little . so steering rack went bad in 3 years its normal ? i heard they pretty tuff.
  12. great . is that long travel suspension be similar to what you have now on 99 ob ? all custom made ? you showed pics of that yet maybe ?
  13. i changed mine wheel bearing last week front driver side. just removed all spindle hub , took it to near garage where people have hydraulic press. and they removed old bearing and put new in place in couple minutes. payed just couple euros . same time check those ball joints. if they not knocking but have kinda loose feeling just change them too .
  14. scalman

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    did some easy and cheap mountings for hi lift . it would be on top because less stress on roof rack frame and because frame is not that heavy and solid in wouldnt hold well on side , but on top no prob. just with sides it would go more inside rack then.
  15. scalman

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    some more sand hill testing and water crossing in nearby forest couldnt go much farther up with VDC on , went little farther with VDC off as more momentum , but via those large holes i loose momentum fast and shocks allready maxing they travel and gets lots beating there if going faster thats hill from top and from car in middle of it. very soft sand too. and i didint aired down psi. was going on 21 psi there. found fun place to cross . at some points water was allready about door changed driver side wheel bearing and both sides ball joints in front. all now well just that steering rack got loose. its loose inside rack. thinking of trying that bolt on rack maybe tightening it more, but not sure it will help. those ball joints where shot so bad. bearing as well. holded about a year because used aftermarket one. for 30 euros. and getting used to driving car without sway bars. would be nice to found some like 5-10 cm longer struts from other car that would fit in front for even more travel. that arm could still go more like 10 cm more travel down then oem struts . i just droped my strut from top mounting and looked when it will bottom something but it was still going down about 10 cm more from oem point.