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Subasaurus last won the day on August 26

Subasaurus had the most liked content!

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184 Excellent

About Subasaurus

  • Rank
    Subaru's, Peugeot's, AMC's. Weird, Like Me..
  • Birthday 12/13/1994

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    San Antonio, Texas
  • Interests
    Subaru's Older Than 1995ish (Non-Interference Engines)
  • Occupation
    Data Analyst & Mailing for the United States Postal Service
  • Biography
    Love Subaru's, Love Dogs and Cats, Love Video Games, somehow i learned to work on cars though... probably my stubborness.
  • Vehicles
    Too Many, I think i have a disorder on Subarus....

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  1. Subasaurus

    Fuse box fix works

    try pinching all your fuse terminals on the fuse box to make better contact, also clean them out with a small tooth brush looking wire brush, and reinstall your fuses, sounds like you got a bad connection issue. also make sure your fuses don't spin around, where the metal endcaps unglue from the glass cylinder, if they do, replace the fuse.
  2. try going to a radio repair shop, hard to find but they do still exist, i have one in my city. should cost somewhere between $35-$65 (if no radio repair stores exist in your city, look for someone that knows how to repair gauge clusters on vehicles, they will know how to repair radio's but may not advertise it) gen 1 radio's are quite expensive for what they are, here's one on ebay currently but it's a very early one with only AM- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970s-CLARION-X100-SUBARU-DATSUN-RADIO-RF-1421/392833347813?hash=item5b76b130e5:g:CoIAAOSwUQle4TOJ next time, try a FM transmitter if your gen 1 radio is a hybrid of both AM and FM, where you tune to the station you preset already, they're $5 at 5 Below, or you can get a better quality one at walmart for like $10. Auxiliary quality isn't really needed with an original Clarion Subaru radio, sounds like a turd anyways so might as well transmit it through FM waves. only thing you'll need is an auxiliary jack on your Phone/Ipod.
  3. i went with a 160 degree, that's just what worked best for me, remember you have options if any issues arise.
  4. Subasaurus

    Subaru brats by state

    that's really cool you have 2!
  5. nice find! unsure if it works 100% but looks to be correct...
  6. i would just run a new wire to it, if i remember correctly, that wire is yellow the one you are talking about, i was getting 7v on mine, made no sense.
  7. one hell of an old thread but yeah, there's those snap on tabs that always break to disengage from the metal door itself, and the doorcard lifts up holding it at a 10 degree angle away from the door.
  8. Subasaurus

    79 DL idle problem

    tuning a carb is not rocket science, set your timing and idle first, every flywheel is different on these EA71's, they were all welded by hand, mine is at 8degrees with idle being 850rpm due to having electric fans and needing a bit more rpm for the battery to catch up to the power draw, also make sure the engine is warmed up before tuning. more timing=more power but more HEAT, be conservative about your timing and how much power you want to push out of your lawnmower of an engine. then make sure there's no vacuum leaks! and hook up a vacuum gauge, you can get these for $12 at harbor freight, your goal is 18 inches of mercury by playing with the mixer screw, you want it as far opened as possible before the gauge begins to dance and ultimately heading back down the gauge (less suction) which means less stable which means engine may randomly shut off on you, (start at turn and a half out) once you're right at when the needle wants to dance and start loosing suction on the manifold, back off away from that area 1/4turn-1/2turn, this will help when weather changes, although i'm not sure how much the weather changes in Hawaii. if your car can achieve anything more than 18 inches, that is spectacular and uncommon, you can get away with 15inches of pressure, but next time the weather changes, expect issues. -forgot to mention, vacuum gauge hooks up where the distributor advance would hook up to, you go based on non advanced timing, also don't throttle the engine without the advancer hooked up, you're asking for fire to shoot out of the carb. a cool way to know if the vacuum advance is working and the bladder inside isn't shot is to suck on the vacuum advance with your mouth, it should increase idle a bit when you do this. another thing to note, timing, idle, and mixerscrew all mess with each other, it's a 3 plot graph, you mess with 1, you gotta mess with the other 2, your goal is to get all 3 lines to meet up as close as possible, make sure to mess with your idle again once you've tuned everything, and then review your timing again, i usually repeat 3 times and call it good enough till a cold front hits.
  9. Subasaurus

    79 DL idle problem

    i did, engine roars now, it's so weird how different the sound it makes now that it's not being restricted by the Hitachi, MPG is 21-23 if that matters to you at all. >i should note, i got a ripoff branded one, here's the link on ebay for it, i couldn't spend $400 for the Webber branded one at the time since i wasn't working. there's a version with an auto choke on this ripoff branded one too if you decide to go the cheap route. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-76-89-EA-71-81-32-36-DGV-CARBURETOR-CONVERSION-MANUAL-CHOKE-K730-M-ECON/361450089325?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 it was $200 back in 2017, i see it's gone up in price lol.
  10. Subasaurus

    79 DL idle problem

    it's the choke as previously mentioned, your choke isn't opening up all the way, and when the engine is "cold", it needs your foot constantly on it to open the choke alittle bit till it warms up (choke finally opens enough) and when it's completely warmed up you mentioned it's sluggish at low speeds, either it's too far opened (maybe the auto choke is worn or not reading engine temp correctly) when warmed up or not opened enough when fully warmed up. i've never had luck with auto chokes, i've tried 3 times on 3 different cars, so everytime i see one i immediately pull it and replace with a manual mechanical cable choke. chokes are super sensitive when cold and after it just ran across the city and then sits for 30min (partial warm up), those are the hardest for a vehicle to start, even modern cars with worn sensors. also if it still has the original hitachi carb on there, i would say it sounds like it's working better than intended.
  11. Subasaurus

    1979 DL wagon

    i would agree on the newer models, but you literally need a $30 tool set from walmart to take this whole vehicle apart. get a Factory Service manual.
  12. Subasaurus

    1979 DL wagon

    first impressions, it looks pretty solid, not much cracking on the top of the shock tower rubbers. no rust at all where the spare tire goes, whats up with that?!?! looks like the vehicle may have fuel delivery issues, the pump isn't where it's suppose to be, could be dangling underneath? and it has the not so awesome Hitachi Carb that all these originally came with, i remember the pain to work on that original carb even after rebuilding it. that's all the input i have about it based on this one picture, maybe someone else can see something i don't.
  13. Subasaurus

    Howdy Folks!

    ah, thanks for that info! haven't seen enough examples to know this.
  14. Subasaurus

    Howdy Folks!

    look for rust where the front doors hinge from! don't want structural damage now. it's normal for some rust to be under the spare tire area, same goes for battery location, and rear mudflap location. is the windshield cracked? because you're not finding another one! and if you do, they go for $300+ just for the glass, plus shipping, plus installation. these engines are very bullet proof, just make sure the crank turns over to make sure it's not seized up and you should be fine. post pictures! i would love to see another survivor. the plastic in the cargo area is usually gone or falling apart, same goes for the dash, there's probably less than 10 that don't have cracks across the country lol. if it's a manual, look at the pedal box for any cracks or separation. not sure what else to really say without pictures, alot of these first gens leak water in, either through pin holes in the cowl that let water fall through into the passenger side floor, or in the top corners of the windshield seam.