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Subasaurus last won the day on March 12

Subasaurus had the most liked content!

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About Subasaurus

  • Rank
    Subaru's, Peugeot's, AMC's. Weird, Like Me..
  • Birthday 12/13/1994

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    San Antonio, Texas
  • Interests
    Subaru's Older Than 1995ish (Non-Interference Engines)
  • Occupation
    Data Analyst & Mailing for the United States Postal Service
  • Biography
    Love Subaru's, Love Dogs and Cats, Love Video Games, somehow i learned to work on cars though... probably my stubborness.
  • Vehicles
    Too Many, I think i have a disorder on Subarus....

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  1. Subasaurus

    EA71 head studs

    clean bolts, clean threads, chase threads if needed, reassemble. i'm still going strong on my headgaskets after 4 years after reusing headbolts, I had the rare opportunity of having 2 EA-71's to work with and choose the best headbolts out of the bunch.
  2. Subasaurus

    New GL Wagon Owner!

    love it! I noticed you said one of the rotors was warped, are the rears disks or drums?
  3. lucky you managed to salvage your lines, i had to run new lines from the tank itself on mine since either something inside was blocking it that required more than 120psi, or it rusted inside the metal line itself and was blocking fuel.
  4. Subasaurus

    76? Subaru in junkyard

    someone took the windshield already...
  5. Subasaurus

    More rust repair 81 Brat

    how did you attach the roof rack on the roof? curious, hard to see in the pictures currently.
  6. there's also another type of relays that doesn't have the spade terminals poking out of it colored already, instead it has numbers on the top or side of the relay, 86 and 85 are your low current, should click loudly if current is given to those 2 pins (literally negative and positive to it). 30 and 87 are your high current paths, high amperage comes in (+), and high amperage goes out (+).
  7. that's it, that's the fuel tank plug, mine didn't have a rubber seal to it, it just seals. relays are simple as long as you use a 4 pin type. 2 are usually silver, and 2 are gold plated, i don't remember which is which but one of those pairs controls the low current switch, meaning one goes to ground, the other you'll need to find a switch hot but a hot that stays on while cranking. you can test for this with a multimeter and disconnecting the wire that activates the solenoid to your starter so you don't wear that part out, and have someone "crank" with the key while you search for a hot, i don't remember what i grabbed onto but i don't recommend the ignition coil circuit. the other 2 pins are the high amperage load switch, you run a FUSED hot from the battery with fresh wire, connect that to the high load side of the relay, connect another wire to the last remaining port on the relay which would be the corresponding high load pair, route it around the back of the engine against the firewall and connect it to your fuel pump. the hardest thing out of all this is finding a switched hot with the ignition key on and cranking.
  8. Subasaurus

    The grey ghost - 1984 JDM Turbo sedan

    I'm drooling all over that digi dash! never have had the opportunity to see a working one yet, always makes me smile when I see one.
  9. i wouldn't weld it if it was me, there's brats to be found at the junkyards, there's just not many, owning a first gen Subaru is literally a waiting game for parts. try installing one of those emergency rubber oil drain plugs instead for the time being, they grab on from the inside and seal by pressing a rubber plug against it, don't remember the name of them but it's the "oh crap" plug after stripping an OS plug (oversize drain plug). can't remember how big that hole is though, been like 6 years since i've drained my tank. tanks that don't have rust holes are hard to find, plus it's a neat feature you don't see on cars anymore due to safety, and living up north, i would leave the unique feature to drain water out. have you tried buying a thread pitch gauge and measuring the hole size with a micrometer or a bolt itself with the wrong pitch and go to your local hardware store to compare and such?
  10. also my fuel pump is located where the stock one would have mounted at, I bent the 2 studs sticking out apart from each other just a tad and it fit right in. i also recommend checking voltage at the pump first, both my first gen subaru's i've had have had 1-3 volts at the end of the wire, never understood why but i ran a new power source and wires and on a relay with key on, just make sure your power source doesn't turn off when cranking lol.
  11. i just use the crappy Mr. Gasket fuel pump, but they always guaranteed go out every year and a half if you use the vehicle 3-4 times a week. i was able to get 2+years out of mine it by purchasing the 5-7psi for domestic vehicles, and also installing an adjustable regulator and dropped the pressure to 2.5psi. it's suppose to be 3-5psi. theres a fuel pump for 3-5 psi by mr gasket fuel pump but it seems to not last as long as the higher psi one, just keep in mind the fuel pump is overpriced for what it is ($70) and the regulator is too ($30).
  12. Subasaurus

    Brat Newbie

    whoops, I confused myself! lol, sorry.
  13. probably the lowest mileage 1984 Subaru out there in the wild in that kind of shape combination, ofcourse, Subaru has their own collection but those aren't for sale nor are they out in the wild. if i was you, i would be asking 3,800 and come down as low as 3,500. my brat has 68,000 original miles currently but it isn't in that great of shape since it was a farm vehicle and abandoned from 1994-2016, the interior needs help and so does the body but what the heck, oh well. so ask for the higher price of 2,500-4,000 range, it really is worth it, even if it's just a 2WD. forgot to mention, don't get desperate, the longer you have it posted for sale, the more forums your car will appear on, trust me, word always spreads will classic Subaru's, especially in that kind of shape.
  14. Subasaurus

    EA71 Thermostat Temp

    i can drive in rush hour traffic at a maximum of 105F with a 160F thermostat, if it's any hotter outside, i start overheating (with electric fans going) but it sucks in dead winter when it gets to 25-30 degrees, the brat coughs for about 10-15min, by the time it fully warms up, i'm already where i need to be lol. also keep in mind, i removed the mechanical useless fan and installed 2 electric fans on a switch to survive the summer heat here.
  15. Subasaurus

    Tonneau cover for brat???

    hope this helps lol.