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nicholi2789 last won the day on May 10 2015

nicholi2789 had the most liked content!

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About nicholi2789

  • Rank
    USMB is life!
  • Birthday 02/07/1989

Profile Information

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  • Location
    United States
  • Occupation
    Manager Lube shop
  • Referral
  • Biography
    Just a guy who loves his Subaru.
  • Vehicles
    2004 Subaru WRX sport wagon
  1. Yes I know that sedan struts and Springs are slightly different I did the reading before doing it. Wagon Springs are slightly longer sedans (though H&R lists the same part number for both sedan and wagons) that's why I used the 3/8ths saggy butt spacers. The only reason I even did this swap is because my suspension was stock with 150k miles on it, and it was a straight across trade. Free besides my labor in doing it. I wanted to lower my car anyways. As for the camber up front. I also know that I lose about .5 of camber adjustment switching to sedan struts. So far everything seems very normal alignment wise. No noticeable pull either way, though I am watching for tire wear. As far as hitting the bump stop goes, I'm not sure if that's happening. It doesn't seem like the strut is bottoming out or anything. Under normal conditions it's not so bad. I mean I definetely feel it when I hit a manhole cover, but it's not intolerable. What really concerns me, is when I hit any sizable Bump or crack in the road it's a loud BANG and it seems like there is no dampening in the suspension up front whatsoever. I realize lowered cars rider harsher than normal but this just doesn't seem right. It also has a little bit of bounce when driving down a less than perfectly smooth road. What were you guys saying about trimming Bump stops? Do elaborate please. Also, could old worn top hats add to the roughness? I accidentally snapped a bolt on my front passenger strut mount (didn't realize the torque was only 17 pounds, thought it was like 30) so I have to replace the top hat anyways and thought I'd just do both fronts. Thanks
  2. Thank you for all the advice. The springs are H&R 54457 Springs. I just dont feel like this ride is normal or else noone would ever Lower their car. I live in sort of a small remote area. I don't have many friends around here with lowered cars.
  3. Hey guys, got a 2004 WRX Wagon a while back. Recently I had a guy offer to trade his stock 2004 wrx sedan suspension (stock struts with H&R lowering Springs) straight across. So i did the swap. I wanted to lower it a bit anyways. I used 3/8ths saggy butt spacers in the rear. Anyways, the ride is rediculously rough. I mean, I expected a slightly rougher ride since I'm lower but not like this. Everyone I hit a Crack it's really really loud and rough. I torqued everything to spec too. My question is, would getting a new set of struts help partially solve this? This is my first suspension swap ever and don't know much about suspension mods. But it seems to me putting lowering Springs on stock suspension is a perfect recipe for a really rough ride. I want to keep it lowered, I just can't handle this rough ride. I don't do much gravel or off road but I do alot of late night spirited road driving. I just wanted less body roll and more road hugging. Lol. Anyways, I was thinking about a set of new KYB excel g/gr2 struts (high reviews among Subie owners) and new tophats. Do you think that would improve the ride with these Springs? Worst case scenario I have to either buy Coilovers or go back to stock. I would prefer to stay lowered. I just know that there is no way all lowering spring setups ride this badly. It's super bouncy and if I hit a medium size Bump at high speed it's downright painful and loud. Any advice guys? Thanks.
  4. Thanks a lot. Couldn't feel anything close besides the spring for the clutch fork or whatever it is. Your the man Fairtax!
  5. Yeah i would consider another guy for future work because that is just plain untrue. I had torn boots on both sides of my power steering rack on my old 95 Legacy AND 95 impreza. It's pretty easy if you are decent with a wrench. I replaced both boots on my Legacy and even though it was the first time I had ever done it, it only took about 2 hours. Cost me less than 50$ for the boots and clamps off Rockauto. As the guys said above, take extra special care to put the tie rod back EXACTLY how it came out. I used a white marker and marked the threads. Do a quick Google search and you'll find lots of threads about people replacing them. There is no sense in replacing an entire rack when it's still good. I would thoroughly check inside for debris like they said about though.
  6. Nice. Thank you. Really appreciate it. One last question. So all i could find was about 3 inch M10x1.50 bolts, and the threads are only on the last inch and a half or so. So i had to use washers to shim it up. However, the bolt still sticks out the other side (drivers side) about an inch, give or take. There is nothing that the extra bolt sticking out can hit right? I can't see back there well at all because of the intercooler and don't want to take it off to look.
  7. Went next store to Napa and picked up a bolt that fit those specs. It slid right in. It was about an inch too long so I had to shim it with some washers but it worked. Good temp fix until I can get a new mount set. Thanks alot!
  8. Awesome thanks for the great information as always Fairtax. Could I really just use any generic bolt provided it fits those specs? And should I use 8.8 or 10.9?
  9. What the heck? How does a bolt like to get just go missing? Just vibrates loose? Well I wonder if I can just order the bolt and not have to replace the whole piece. I'll be sure to check the other mounts. Could this cause any collateral damage?
  10. I have a buddy who has a 97 Impreza L. It has the single port 2.2. Unfortunately headers for that engine are about twice as much as dual ports. He did order a decent set off of eBay and they've worked out great for him. He's had them on for a few months now. I think they were about 230$. Search on Ebay. The guy he bought them from was a fabricator out of Everett Washington. Good quality. I would recommend wrapping them though to reduce that tinny sound you get with these types of headers. I bought a set of dual port uel headers for my 95 Legacy 2.2 off eBay and they were great. Swapped them over to my Impreza 1.8 before I sold it even. Good luck!
  11. Hey guys, I've posted here quite a bit about my previous subarus (95 Legacy and 95 Impreza), but haven't much lately. Recently I upgraded big time and got a 2004 WRX sport wagon with the EJ20 turbo. It has 150k miles and has been great so far. Anyways, as with most used vehicles it's had a few quirks and minor problems. One of them that has me concerned, is this clunking I've noticed when I shut the car off. It also happens sometimes briefly during startup, I also noticed a rattling/knocking sound that happens during certain rpm ranges (from about 3750k rpms to about 4k). I've listened very closely and tried to determine where exactly it's coming from and have determined it's not the engine. I've revved the engine from under the hood and don't hear the rattle/knocking at all in the engine bay and it sounds like it's in the firewall somewhere (somehow). I figure it's got to be a loose or worn out part somewhere near the firewall for me to only hear it inside the car and when the engine is vibrating a certain way. Anyways, I was once again looking behind the intercooler trying to figure it out where it's coming from when I noticed the mount directly below the intercooler (transmission mount?) is kind of loose. Loose enough that I can shake it by hand. The bushings in it are obviously worn out. I've never replaced engine/transmission mounts before so I'm not sure how they are supposed to be normally. I would assume that it should have some play in it to absorb shock but it will shake probably a half inch up or down. That's definetely not normal right? Could this mount be what's causing the sound I'm hearing? I would guess that with the vibration of the engine this thing is definetely moving a bit and clanking around. Anyone got any insight? Also, how bad of a job is it to replace? I'm decently good with a wrench (Done multiple timing jobs on Subies, clutch etc) Is it gonna hurt anything if I can't get to it in the immediate future? Thanks in advance for all your help, everyone here is super knowledgeable, helpful, and welcoming. That's why I post here and not at NASIOC. EDIT: I attached a picture of the part I'm talking about. I think it's a transmission mount? Not sure what the actual name for it is.
  12. Nah I figured out what it was. Somehow the rear window wash line broke somewhere between the firewall and the floorboard on the drivers side. Every time I sprayed my rear window wash it was just dumping fluid onto my floor. Lol. So i just unplugged the rear motor and clamped the line off until I can figure out what to do with it. Really odd problem..
  13. Hey, I'm a new owner of a 2004 wrx sport wagon (not mew to Subies or thus forum) and I love it. Recently I noticed that my driver side floorboard is damp and is under the drivers seat. It hasn't rained in days. I did however wash my car a couple times. Any ideas what it could be? Dumped some water into the cowl on both sides and it seemed to drain fine. No leaky windows. What goes under the carpet there that could leak? Rear window wash line? Any ideas. Thanks!
  14. That doesn't sound like any rod knock that i've ever heard. This has a different quality of sound to it. It almost sounds like what happens when a timing tensioner fails. But you said you just did that.. I'd be inclined to say its coming from the heads somewhere.
  15. Yeah that's what I was gonna ask next is how is it running. Is it just an intermittent code that pops up with no discernible difference in engine performance? Like the other person said, i would start with cylinder 3 and check the wire and plug. The cylinders are numbered as follows: standing in front of the engine looking down at it the closest one on your left is #1 closest on the right is cylinder #2, back left is cylinder #3 and back right is cylinder #4.